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Found 208 results

  1. 25000kms on engine and parts - 325rwkws @24psi Flex Fuel Power Tune forged short block (500kws) LONG MOTOR $5000 · Bore and hone block · Deck block · CP forged pistons and rings 86.5mm · BC conrods ARP2000 · ACL Race Series engine bearings (main, rod and thrust) · ARP main studs · OEM Water pump assembly · OEM Oil pump assembly · OEM timing chain kit · OEM rear main seal · OEM Front crank seals · Tomei sump · Tomei head gasket 87mm 1.5mm · Tomei rocker cover · Oil adapter block – remote oil filter Power Tune ported head package (500kws) · Crack test · Pressure test · Surface grind · Acid clean · Custom valve seats · New valve guides · New valve stem seals · Hand port and polish · Oversized valves · Match ported to exhaust gasket · Match porting to inlet manifold · BC single springs and titanium retainers · BC intake camshaft 264 · BC exhaust camshaft 272 · BC intake valves +1mm · BC exhaust valves +1mm · BC adjustable cam gear – exhaust · Tomei adjustable cam gear – intake · ARP head studs · Rocker stopper kit RB25 gearbox cut and shut, DCS 2200LB twin plate clutch(needs rebuild), dogleg sort throw shifter, Kreative Enterprises custom tail shaft $2000 Power Tune Twin In-tank fuel pump kit 1000HP $1000 · 2x Walbro 500HP 225L/HR · Braided lines and fittings front to rear -6 · Earls inline filters -6 Cusco 2way 4.08. $600 Haltech Platinum Pro S15 $1200 Haltech Air Temp sensor $30 Haltech 3 Bar MAP sensor $80 Haltech boost control solenoid $80 Haltech I/O 12 channel expander box $400 S14 to S15 adapter harness $100 Ethanol sensor – To run on E85 or 98 unleaded and any combination of the two $220 Garrett 3076 T3 .63 BB Turbo $900 6 Boost manifold $600 Turbosmart 38mm Wastegate $350 Turbosmart Raceport BOV $250 Turbo smart FPR800 $200 JUN type Inlet manifold, 870cc Siemens injectors, BMI top feed fuel rail (twin entry) $700 Black speedflow fittings throughout w/ black lightweight braid $Various Race Solutions – Intake pipe, Air box, Intercooler piping, Power steering reservoir, Oil catch can and Overflow bottle. All powder coated black $Various Odyssey Battery PC1200 with bracket mounted in boot $250 MR Racks rebuilt power steering rack including rechroming $350 Holford Motors – HFM Castor, Toe and Traction Rods $250 Ikeya Formula rear upper arms (camber) $200 Immaculate S15 front and rear seats $500 Navan front bar $500 Navan side skirts and rear pods – not fitted $250 and $150 JDM rear bar $300 30mm rear over fenders – not fitted. As new gel coat $200 Siebon Carbon fibre door panels, 1 piece OEM style – not fitted $600 Powertune topfeed fuel rail with 2000cc injectors – not fitted $600 Nolathane rear subframe bushes in subframe RDA slotted, dimpled and gold passivated rotors Heaps more stock parts All located Penrith NSW. Photos available on request. Currently all on vehicle unless specified. Car is NOT running at present
  2. Item: Blitz Nur Spec RX S15 Cat-Back exhaust Description: In great condition was only on the car for under a year, and the car only saw about 3,000k's in that time. Only reason for sale is I'm getting a custom system built at the moment. Price: $500 ono Location: Diamond Creek, VIC Willing to post?: NO Contact: 0417 051 286 or mark.strachan@live.com.au
  3. Nismo 2 way brand new S13/S14

    Item: Nismo 2 way GT LSD Description: Brand new, 6 bolt flanges, arrived from japan and doesn't suit my 5 bolt shafts or spare diff's. Price: $900 ono need to gone to pay for correct diff Location: Adelaide Willing to post?: Yes Contact: 0414 565 130
  4. Up for sale is my Kaaz 2 way LSD from my s15. Originally supplied and fitted brand new by Forced Motorworx Dandenong in 2013. Driven well under 5000km's with this diff. In PERFECT working condition, no damage, leaks, dints, cracks etc. Run in procedure completed and fresh genuine Kaaz diff oil has been put in. I will provide the left over un-used Kaaz Diff oil too for top ups etc. Reason for sale: not needed for my s15 anymore, looking at putting wheels on my s14. Located SE suburbs. $850 FIRM! I might consider swaps (cash adjustments accordingly) for pair or set of rims to suit my s14. Please don't send me offers for 'sex spec' style rims or 19's, 20's etc. call or text 0431 548 144 as I don't go on the forums much Cheers, Angelo
  5. FS Tein Tie Rods + Ends Brand New Suit Nissan s13,14,15 and possibly other models too $250
  6. **** DID I MENTION THE PRICE HAS BEEN DROPPED TO $4500??? **** Hi guys, I've just had my old s14 project car rolling shell interior, engine bay and boot painted and it's for sale. The roll cage cost me $3k and is CAMS approved. Perfect for anyone wanting a shell ready to drop in your choice of motor and gear box. Rolling chassis, comes with an sr20det, unknown condition of motor, was running when removed. Comes with S14.5 Origin +25mm conversion fenders, body loom, pedals. Boot lid and tail lights available if buyer wants them, but no use on the shell as the hinges and rear parcel shelf have been cut out to reduce weight. Has got tubs welded in too. No turbo, No headlights, No rear bar, No gearbox. Not registered. Asking price for shell is $6000. Have a few additional parts if buyer wants them with the shell, at EXTRA cost as per below. 5 piece lexan window kit +1000 Fibre glass doors (brand new) +950 Fibre glass "Edge" side skirts (brand new) +250 S14 Origin +50mm rear fenders (brand new) +450 S15 C-west Front bar (fibreglass) +400 C-west (Genuine) carbon fibre GT Wing II +1000 Also if you are not genuinely interested in buying it, no one wants to read your commentary from the sidelines.
  7. Gut too big to reach the boot release lever? Hands always full smoking cigarettes at the petrol station? Disappointed you can't operate your car using pelvic thrusts? Then look no further than to Mitsubishi for solutions. Difficulty = 7 Where 0 is stancing your Silvia, and 10 is avoiding trees at slow speed. Time Required = 7 hours at a casual pace Tools Required 2x Mitsubishi Magna glovebox boot release buttons 1x Aftermarket central locking actuator (can be slave or master) 1000x20x3mm flat steel bar 90 degree galvanised steel bracket from Bunnings Falcon fuel release pull-cord (not installed in this guide, but all you do is run it through an eyelet on the chassis, then through the fuel latch) Mig welder Angle grinder Drill Various metric drill bits Mitsubishi Magna electric boot release motor and cable Light gauge wire Miscellaneous bolts and nuts Washers or ring terminals for wiring Heatshrink tubing Usage Not cutting your brand new carpet Opening the boot or fuel flap without opening your door to gain access to the lever Automating your boot release with Alarm systems Winning Process (Boot Release) Step 1. Test your Magna boot release motor using the car battery Step 2. Install the Magna release cable and test fit the bracket Step 3. Bend and cut the braket to cover the point at which the plastic retainer on the release cable should be positioned, to allow proper movement of the latch Step 4. Drill a hole and cut a 'V' channel into it, to allow the plastic retainer on the release cable to be inserted and held in place Step 5. Drill holes in the bracket and chassis, then bolt in place Step 6. Run the release cable over to the driver's tail light, then back past the latch to the passenger shock tower Step 7. Drill holes and bolt the motor to the passenger shock tower Step 8. Use a razor knife to enlarge blank holes on the plastic S15 trim below the gauge cluster, then install the Magna boot relase button. Step 9. Solder Accessories power into the button, then from the button to the motor, then to ground. Test the motor wires to confirm the push/pull direction. Process (Fuel Release) Step 1. Remove the fuel latch Step 2. Mount the latch and central locking actuator on a board of wood, and adjust the positioning to establish full retraction without undue load Step 3. Cut some flat steel bar and mount it either side of the actuator, to ensure even clamping force Step 4. Cut some flat steel bar and bend it 90 degrees, then twist one side 90 degrees to make it perpendicular to the other Step 5. Weld the twisted side of the 90 degree bar to one of the bars bolted to the actuator Step 6. Modify the latch bracket by cutting off the main pull cable mount, and the prongs on the rotating lever. Drill a hole in the trailing end of the rotating lever, install a bolt facing away from the spring, then bolt it in place. Step 7. Run the bolt through the central locking actuator's hole, and hold it in place using double-nuts, to ensure the plunger can rotate easily. The orientation of the actuator is such that the plunger must be located between the chassis and latch spring, with the solenoid facing towards the passenger side. Step 8. Attach the 90 degree bracket to the top of the actuator Step 9. Install the fuel latch, then drill holes in the chassis to bolt the actuator in a position that allows complete movement without undue load. Step 10. Use a razor knife to enlarge blank holes on the plastic S15 trim below the gauge cluster, then install the second Magna boot relase button. Carefully sand off the boot icon to ensure clarify. Step 11. Solder Accessories power into the button, then from the button to the solenoid, then to ground. Test the solenoid wires to confirm the push/pull direction.
  8. Hi All I have done a search but to no avail. I have an auto s14a and the transmission packed up the other day. i was wondering if an s15 auto transmission would be a direct swap or will it require much modification? Any help/suggestions would be good. I'm not going down the path of a manual conversion as it would be too costly. i would prefer to just buy a manual s14 (im questioning why i didnt do this in the beginning) Don't want a reco'ed rebuilt auto trans as this will also be too costly so i was thinking of putting in a second hand auto trans. Thanks in advance for the help. Craig
  9. hey there i have a quick noob question for anyone that can help!! with the sr20det over radiator catch can i can see where one of the the lines in connected to the motor but i don't know where the other line is connected up to in the photo below. is there specific area that these lines have to run to or there is a few places??
  10. Hey Guys, I recently bought an Aus spec S14 Series 1. The previous owner told me it has "Bigger Injectors" but he himself didnt know how big they were. I didnt think too much of it really, until i bought a Haltech PS1000 and tried to tune it. First question that was asked "How big are the injectors?" Nfi. So, my question is: Is there an easy way to identify the injectors without physically pulling them out? The ones in there are currently yellow, which leads me to believe they are 555cc Nismo injectors. I can see the one that feeds the first Cylinder, it has a little half C shoe holding it in place (forgive me im no Mechanic). Is it easy to just undo that clamp shoe thing to see the serial number then google it? Or does the Intake have to come off? Is there a chance there are different commonly used yellow colour injector upgrade? If i can avoid pulling off stuff from the engine to get to it, I'd rather do that due to laziness, but if it has to be done, then I shall. Thanks.
  11. Trying to work out if some PF01 evo's will fit over my r33gtr calipers on an s14. I'm currently running rpf01's and the clear by 3mm. Specs are 17x9 et+22
  12. ISC N1 coilovers SALE, please click the below link to see our full website with prices and description. http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/coilovers-
  13. Used Spare Parts Imported From Japan ( We Cannot take Enquiries Or Reply Via PM) Enquiries must be via phone (03) 9311-9966 Mobile 0402 379 919 (Lee) Or Email https://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au/help.php?section=contactus&mode=update Current Stock - Prices Starting From $20 Subaru WRX GDB 6 Speed Sti 2003-2006 & 1999 - 2000 GC8 ( All Parts Available) Mitsubishi Evo 4-9 Lancer ( All Parts Available) Legnum Galant EC5A / W Twin Turbo (Most Parts Available) JZA80 MKIV Supra TT 6 SP Manual & Auto - N/A 5 SP & Auto (Most Parts Available) Skylines R33 R34 V35 , All Guises Including 6 Sp Manual S1 V35 With Brembos (Most Parts Available) 200sx , Silvia 180sx , S14 S15 (Most Parts Available) Mazda RX7 Series 4 - 7 (Most Parts Available) Toyota SW20 AW11 NR2 & Starlet ( Glanza ( EP82 - EP91) 4EFTE Turbo 1.3 (Most Parts Available) Pulsar RNN14 GTIR AWD SR20DET (Most Parts Available) Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 1 - 3 (Some Parts Available) Z32 300zx VG30DETT & VG30DE & M35 Stagea (Some Parts Available) Toyota Soarer 1JZ & 1UZ V8 (Some Parts Available) We Try To Stock The Most Sought After Parts Engines , Gearboxes , Turbo's , Superchargers, Coilovers , Recaro Seats Manual Conversion Kits, Stock & Afternarket Mechanical LSD For S & R chassis Nisssanss ECU'S , AFM , Engine Conversion Packages, sr20, 4g63, 4efte, rb25,rb26, 2jz, 1jz, 13b turbo, 4age supercharged, 4age black top 20 Valve VG30DETT, VG30DE, 6A13 Legnum , VQ35, VQ25 Plus More ............. Location Fact 4/31-39 West Circuit Sunshine West , Vic 3020 (03)9314-7776 - (03) 9311-9966 0402 379 919 (Lee)
  14. Hi, I've spent MANY hours on the forums trying to determine what way forward with regards to what type of shock absorber I should get for my S14. A number of similar themes kept reoccurring in my search. One being that if you are able to afford Bilstein, do so. I have rung Bilstein's contact in Australia, and they have said they do not do a shock absorber for the S14/S15. I even gave them a part number that I found on the internet, but still no success. I've tried to find out if the rumours about 300sx and EVO Bilstein shocks fitting S14/15 are true, but unable to get certainty on that. I know that there is a Bilstein shock that fits the S14/15, - as SYDNEYKID a few years ago on the forums developed/made/sold a suspension kit for some Skylines and S13/S14/S15's. I've driven a few Silvias with these shocks and setups, and I felt they were quite good. A number of quality posters have recommended quality springs and shocks over coilovers to people in my situation. For my application, I agree. MY CAR: S14 ADM, was completely stock and 1 owner till when I bought it 3 years ago. POWER: stock turbo, basic powermods(FMIC, Walbro, 3", hiflow cat etc) 174rwkw CHASSIS: Quite a few custom chassis strengthing mods, including power brace, welded on fender braces, rear subframe brace etc etc, and strut brace. SUSPENSION/STEERING: S15 stock struts with stock but 35mm lower front springs (yes, cut..... I know). Solid rear subframe bushes, whiteline front swaybar. I also hade some custom castor/camber tops made to suit struts, NOT Coilovers. This being another reason wanting to stick with struts and not coilovers. The rollcentres and bumpsteer have been corrected close to stock after lowering. As it stands, I'm OK with the mild power, and the chassis/geometry changes make it easy and safe to drive. I just want to get rid of the somewhat floaty feel of the shocks, and help it stick better, but still having a compliant and gentle ride. (I sold my racecar to buy this car as a livable daily driver, spending a fair bit of time in the car each day). Keen to hear what shock/spring combos other people have used, and their reviews of them. I have had KONI shocks in my racecar, and when adjusted, where OK. But again haven't found info on this with regards to the S14/S15. Thanks in advance, Rob
  15. Hey guys, long time lurker first time poster. Long story short my S13 SR20DE alternator died recently and I was pretty bummed, the car lost a lot of power in the high RPMs and would make a static buzzing/crackle down near the fuse box on the driver side kick panel. I looked erratically for a decent S13 alternator but couldn't find one in my area for cheap enough, but I did find an S15 alternator for $80. I researched it a lot and couldn't find any concrete answer so I just bit the bullet and bought it. The answer is yes: It works - It literally bolted straight in, using the stock S13 mouting brackets, belt and loom. S15 on left and S13 on right As you can see the size and position of the mounts are identical. The positions of the plug and positive lug are swapped on the S15, but everything still plugs in correctly. The positive lug on the S15 is thicker than the S13 - The only modification required to fit an S15 alternator is drilling of the eyelet from the loom. Takes 30 seconds. Plugs identical, direct fit. Same height Pulleys identical in diameter/depth Aaaaand picture of my engine bay for good measure. So all in all, S15 alternator is direct swap for S13, and makes an extra 10A over the S13, so easy upgrade. Cheers
  16. Hey everyone, just bought my s13 with a s14 vct engine in it. The previous owner had hooked up a catch can just before i went to pick it up. It was done dodgy with garden hose and lots of leaks, so I replaced it with heater hose. Now the engine idles really low about 500rpm and when i put the foot down to take off the engine dies. If i disconnect the catch can and have the hoses venting in the atmosphere its goes to normal revsd but still dies on acceration. The car is running on 5in hu on vacuum gauge, and i think this is the problem. Does anyone know if the hoses are hooked up correctly in the pictures below
  17. Hi all, Am new to this. Am booked in for a tune but am concerned that my tuner tends to throw caution to the wind on the dyno... Previous tune S14 SR2DET standard s14 injectors - T3/T4 turbo - 227rwkws. Interested in people's thoughts on what a safe rwkw number would be for a new tune with a new turbo and J-Spec S15 injectors? Thanks all, any advice would be much appreciated! Rich
  18. Dirty Red S14

    Kouki S14 was always a favourite car of mine as a kid, so April 2013 I bought my dream car (lol, idiot). Owning this car has definitely been an eye opener, and a massive learning curve but if I could go back and do it again, I probably wouldn't change it. I thought I was buying a bargain, a kouki with all the good gear at a great price, what could go wrong?! I had a mate in the know come check it out before I put down any money and he confirmed, good stuffs. A few weeks later, this fine automobile was in my front yard. Mods were: Rebuilt SR20 with 50,000kms Garrett 3071 T2 internal gate Tomei 256/256 with VCT Nismo 2 way LSD Greddy Intercooler 800cc injectors Twin Plate clutch Haltech PS1000 Tein coilovers with cusco adjustable arms ORC Twin Plate probably more but I forget... Sounded like a great combination for a nice street car. Plans were, ditch the rota's get a nice aggressive set of work equips, lower it a bit more and more or less keep it clean and straight while being a fun daily drifter. After having it sit like this for a while I started getting curious and pulling bits off which is when I discovered the jibbery. 800cc injectors - nope, Nismo 555's/550's (yellow, would have known earlier if I researched); Nismo 2 way - nah jokes bro, locked r200 (I had no idea what a genuine 2 way felt like, but I knew this was tight as ferk and would rip skids); At least it still has cams though... no idea what kind, good chance they're not tomei but having cams is a plus; Ended up ditching the twin plate because it was so difficult to get up the gutter into my yard. Polished the intercooler Ripped out the dash, got rid of the gauges and took off the turbo timer in an attempt to make it that little bit less defectable. Will probably all go back in once I see some serious track time. Also added in heater box etc, so that I'd have a functioning demister during the winter fog. No aircon though, because racecar. Acquired some budget skid rims, the more the merrier? Installed some front indicators, with additional bulbs because they are 5w and blinked fast Dummied up some 3" pig pipes Bit longer than expected, but that's cool if you aren't the police, right? Somewhere about here, it started running on 3 cylinders and after a bit of help from some members here, discovered it was the coilpack transistor/ignitor chip. After a week of having it registered, the 3071 decided it wanted to die a noisy death, like nails on a chalkboard, some front to back shaft movement was causing the turbine wheel to scrub on the housing It was time for a more responsive turbo anyway. After much umming and ahhhing and wanting to stick to a low budget, my Hypergear ss1pu came a few weeks ago. No pics of the fun time I had swapping turbo's, and getting 3 sets of coolant lines made up, and drilling out the holes in the dump pipe which changed position after dumping the chinese stainless manifold. While this was going on, I also installed GKtech RAS, which it was supposed to already have, a GKtech clutch fan and a billet pulley kit, however the alternator pulley needed modifying and the night before it's tune aintnobodygottimefodat so the factory pulley went back on. Something about this pic that I really dig And as of last Thursday I'm here... To say I'm disappointed would be a mega understatement, ECC did the tuning and he cleaned up the maps heaps because they looked shite before. The timing was 'out', but it seems that correcting that has taken ALL of my turbo's response. First install the turbo was nuts, positive pressure around 1,800rpm and 18psi before 4,000rpm, loved it. Now I'm not starting boost til about 3,000rpm and 18psi is after 5,000; as well as some other issues that need discussing. I'm going to call him after my exam on Wednesday and see what's up. So I'm on the hunt for a bigger exhaust 3"-3.5" if anyone finds a cheapie, let me know! So as it stands, mods are: Hypergear SS1pu T2 internal gate, sort've equivalent to a GT-RS I think Unknown lumpy cams Broken VCT China split dump P.O.S mix and match exhaust Greddy intercooler Standard intake manifold Standard exhaust manifold Alloy 3" intake pipe by ECC GKtech RAS GKtech clutch fan Haltech PS1000 Exedy HD organic Cusco adjustable rear arms Tein HR coilovers Rota D2ex - F: 18x9.5+13 (effectively), - R: 18x10+12 This thread is not as exciting as some on here, but it's going to be long, and hopefully marginally entertaining, by thriving in my misfortune if nothing else. Plan is still to keep it a daily, and attend drift events whenever possible, hoping to learn even more along the way, as there is an exciting/daunting world of LCAs, knuckles, members, racks, rods, and other mechanical goodness awaiting.
  19. My third attempt at a S chassis

    So I have had a 180SX and a S15 now Im trying a S14 so Far Im loving it as a daily I picked it up completely stock a couple months ago So far I have only Personalised it a little bit: -BC BR coilovers -front strut -Apexi super suction kit -Nardi deep corn 330mm -nismo shift knob and drift button -HKS EVC Boost controller -front dba 4000 track spec rotates and project mu pads -s15 drivers seat -x force exhaust -Pioneer Appradio Future mods I have in box is a Blitz FMIC and some Work Mesh rims Nice to meet you again haha
  20. Just hoping everyone can keep an eye out. Early wednesday morning in sunshine, melbourne a factory was done over. a s14 along with many parts where stolen. Hoping someone somewere knows or sees any of the following White s14 QNO933 veilside andrews 17x9 nexen/achilles rubber apexi coilovers twin plate powerfc with EL controller s2 tail lights and wing honda front lip very low and very loud got gate and no reverse Parts stolen Kinugawa Td06 25g 10 cm rear housing Tieal 44mm external gate Steam pipe manifold R33 aluminium radiator s14/s15 cusco new front coilovers sidchrome and kingchrome full toolboxes. Both locked any info on anything text me 0413694718 thanks
  21. Hey guys! My gearbox is on the fritz and have been looking at buying one. I would rebuild it but my experience with rebuilding boxes so far has taught me it costs ALOT! Are s15 gearboxes stronger than s14 boxes? I wouldn't mind an extra gear! Also how hard is it to put an s15 box into an s14, What would I need to do? Any advice would be awesome. Thanks!!
  22. Hey All Just put a Gktech short shifter in my s14 today and just have a few queries for anyone who has one in their car. The shifter has dramatically increased the gearbox noise into the cabin and it's really loud! Also there is a really annoying rattle coming from the shifter internals under load and when coming off the accelerator, pretty much all the time actually. On the website they stated that " we have made internal modifications to help reduce vibrations associated with short shifters". Has anyone else who has one of these shifters experienced this? Any way I can reduce noise or is it just part of the parcel with having a shifter?? Any advice would be great!!!!
  23. Hey guys, ive been furiously thrashing the search button for a clear answer to the above question. Does anyone have a guide to installing a Z32 AFM 'blow through' aka when the AFM goes inb4 the throttle body on the cold side. Wanna know how to install it, how to entend the factory afm wires to reach and what amp/wire to use. how hard it is and if anyone wants to throw their two cents in thats more than welcome.
  24. hey guys, so i own a 1990 Nissan 180sx with a s13 front end on it and i am looking at removing the s13 front end to put on a series 2 s14 front end on her. basically, i was wondering if anyone has done one or knows of someone who has done one and can give me a few words of wisdom such as, did you use fiberglass gaurds or did you cut and shut a pair of 180 and s14 guards to fit? and how much of a struggle was the headlight brackets?
  25. My s14a build up

    Hey guys, Since im spending most my time sitting on this site (instead of uni work lol) from now on thought id throw up my car and start a thread. Bought a shell about 3 months ago as a project and slowly started building it up over the next 2 months. This was my first proper build never having pulled an engine out before. I'll post more details of the build as soon as i have some more time. Plenty of blood, sweat, and tears pain haha really men dont cry, have been put into my new love. Makes me appreciate the car alot more building it up rather than buying one done, well worth the effort by the end and recommend others to give it a crack if you can then you'll know the feeling i have everytime you see it. Big thanks to some good mates who helped me along the way, my missus for putting up with my bitch'n when things didnt always work out and my bro for helping with costs when my broke student ass couldnt even afford bargain parts that popped up lol. Havn't chosen a name for it yet although the missus likes earnie, i like angry more dayummm those sexy BUT angry eyes Heres how it currently is Engine: S14 Black Top Tomei cams 256 Tomei rocker arm stoppers Tomei metal head gasket Tomei Z32 AFM Nismo 555cc injectors GReddy T518Z turbo (8cm) HPI stainless manifold Stainless dump Remapped ECU and loom (done in Japan) GTR fuel pump Utsumi 3 core 52mm copper radiator GReddy FMIC (painted black for stealth) Kakimoto 3" stainless straight through exhaust Driveline & Handling: NPC HD Organic clutch URAS Solid Shifter URAS Solid gearbox mount Nismo clutch slave cylinder R32 GTR Diff ABS delete R32 GTR brakes Drilled rotors GReddy Type S coilovers Cusco front strut bar Lenso D1R wheels 18x8.5" +35 (Kumho KU31 215/35) need spacers badly lol 18x10" +22 (Kumho KU31 235/35) Wish List: Taking donations Muffler (next week) GKTECH camber arms GKTECH toe arms GKTECH castor arms GKTECH engine fan GKTECH baffled sump GReddy Multi D/A gauge (Boost/oil pressure/water temperature) Luxury lip DMAX roof spoiler Recaro SR3 or R34 GTR seats (just some cheapish good quality seats that hug you more) Nistune Also gotta thank my parents for having my junk everywhere for 2 months, told them the build would only take about 2 weeks.. tops. haha yeah right