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Found 124 results

  1. Sr20 hp help

    Hi guys, i need some help with my SR20 i was looking at punching the 300+ hp mark so i did a fair bit of research about achieving it and only made 240hp on 14psi the mods i did include fmic 3' turbo back s15bb t28 on slide industries stainless manifold running 14psi rising rate FPR greddy copy plenum walbro 255, upgrading to a 351 555cc jegs injectors haltech e11v2 ecu turbosmart boost T If anyone has any information for on achieving my target that would be appreciated
  2. S15 Engine in S13

    Hey everyone! I'm only new to the forum, signed up because I'm well and truly stuck. I've searched online for hours or multiple forums to no avail, so I'm hoping some Silvia guru can help! I've dropped a S15 SR20DET into my S13. Everything is bolted up, just need to make some new intercooler pipes to fit. My issue is with the wiring. I'm completely clueless; no idea where to start. I have the S15 ECU and wiring loom, so the engine side of the wiring is done, easy. It's the wiring to the S13 dash that has me stuck. I can't even find any sort of diagrams to help me. There doesn't seem to be much info out there regarding S15 engine's in S13's. However, the guy I bought this S15 engine from had it running perfectly (dash and air con, etc included) in his S13. Unfortunately he isn't very available to get information from. Obviously, a step by step walk through would be amazing hahaha But I understand people wouldn't have time to do that for me. So any help would be useful! Advice, pictures, links, anything! I will post pictures of the build when it's finished I'll also gladly post any additional information or images if needed, just ask. Thanks again in advance! I've heard a lot of good things about this forum
  3. Hey guys im still stuck on a turbo package and have been talking to a couple of garrett places and have been advised if im willing to spend some cash to go with the Garrett GTX3071 twin scroll with .61 rear housing and full race twin scroll exhaust manifold with twin tial gates? Does any one know much about this setup? Would appreciate anyone's input
  4. BROKEN STUD!

    s13 SR20 zomg broke the stud that connects steering column to firewall, dont know what to do now,,, help please? any suggestions
  5. Soon to be S13 owner!

    Hey Guys, the names Myles, im 18 and im new to the forums. I currently have a MX83 Cressida and a RB20DET, but thinking of selling it all to get a S13 with a Autech SR20DE. Im sure i know a few of you from around the place, meets etc. im part of the Cars For Hope team so i attend most of the meetups and stuff, anyway looking forward to talking to everone and stuff, Thanks! Myles.
  6. new motor time....

    Hey Guys, So the motor went on the 180 on sat night in the last session of the drift prac very bad bottom end knock and the oil relocation block blew off the side of the motor block (thread stripped) Undecided on what way to go OPTION 1: just get another det motor (about $1,400ish) Get my turbo rebuilt ($???) while the car is out of action add in RAS (already have), stage 1 cams (already have), Z32 AFM (already have), fuel pump (300ish), s14/15 injectors (200ish???) retune ($???) cost just over $1,900 + retune + turbo rebuild OPTION 2: get a de motor ($500ish) use all the parts from the det motor i need (manifolds, etc) new fuel pump to work on E85 ($300ish) larger injectors 1,000+cc (600ish???) retune($???) turbo rebuild ($???) or something smaller as the de motor has higher compression cost about $1,400 + retune + turbo rebuild (or difference in new turbo) any suggestions? option 2 will have more power and better low down torque because of the higher de's compression, it's also cheaper (and replacement motors in the future will also be cheaper), but i'm not sure if it'll be as reliable as a det motor (if i stay det i'll keep using 98 octane, if i go de+t i'll use e85 to give a bit moe headroom in terms of knock, etc), but for the cost i could by 2-3 de motors for the price of 1 det. any suggestions from people running de+t's or had any experience with them would be good. I would be happy with between 170-200rwkw so esentially for cheers Luke
  7. alright so basically have completely standard SR20 s13 looking to up the boost a little few questions first will 12psi be safe on the t25 also planned mods are: upgrade intercooler mech boost gauge cat back exhaust anything else i should consider? with catback exhaust, is front pipe/dump gonna limit the small amount of power ill be making? also whats a good size exhaust to go for? I have a 3inch custom made one at home, just thinking it might be a bit big, its mandrel bent, magnaflow rear oval muffler, mid ressi hotdog and redback cat I also have a 2.5inch system but its not mandrel bent, has mid muffler (twisty old fashioned one) end muffler, and chinese 100cell cat people often say 3inch is too big for most applications, but in my case will the 3inch flow better, I am also after something fairly quiet so obviously 2.5inch wins for that, just worried it might restrict car too much and not allow it to breathe properly if I boost it, thanks for any input
  8. Hi Guy’s… Because we stock so many parts now and to make it easier to find what your after we have split everything up into categories for you. Just follow the link to the parts your after below, there is a return link to this page at the top of every category page. Please post in this thread if you have any parts requests or questions as the other threads have been locked. Enjoy… Taarks Parts Nismo Parts SR20ve Parts SR20 Parts CA18 Parts RB Parts Drivetrain Parts Body Parts Interior Parts Kind Regards, Taark PS. Don’t forget yo check out the website at: www.taarks.com an our face book page at: www.facebook.com/taarksparts
  9. Hey guys, ive been furiously thrashing the search button for a clear answer to the above question. Does anyone have a guide to installing a Z32 AFM 'blow through' aka when the AFM goes inb4 the throttle body on the cold side. Wanna know how to install it, how to entend the factory afm wires to reach and what amp/wire to use. how hard it is and if anyone wants to throw their two cents in thats more than welcome.
  10. my 86 D21,sr20det

    Forged SR20det Fully rebuilt bored out to 20 thou wiseco pistons Apexi power FC with hand controller tomei CAMS apexi valve controller front mount intercooler upgraded fuel pump injectors and rail hks turbo custom exhaust ,manifold and dump pipe bov
  11. I come in need of advice. I've had some cutout issues with my silvia lately, redtop sr20det. mainly when on a right hand turn but also leaning up around 4000+ revs. Any suggestions as to what problem could be. Fuel pump has been checked and replaced with a walboro. Thinking it may be pressure reg or maybe ecu. (apexi power fc, unknown tune), due to the abrupt cut-out and regain. thanks for any suggestions!
  12. Gary's S14A.

    Hey guys I've got a s14a 200sx which I'm using as a track car. First things first... I bought the car dead stock but it came with HSD coilovers and the guy chucked in a saber fmic kit which was nice Here's a photo of it when I got it. Current engine mods: Bc 272deg duration camshafts Bc adjustable camshaft gears Bc valve springs Bc valve spring retainers and collets Tomei solid rocker pivots Tomei rocker stoppers New rockers CP pistons and rings Spool conrods Balanced bottom end Nitrided crank ACL race series main bearings ACL race series big end bearings Arp head studs Arp main studs Current induction mods: Precision 5558 CEA Sabre fmic Turbosmart wastegate 38mm Turbosmart Vee port pro Plazmaman 72mm throttle body Plazmaman plenum Current fuel mods: Walbro gsl392 Walbro 460lph turbine pump Custom stainless surge tank ASNU 1300cc injectors Plazmaman fuel rail Turbosmart fpr800 (fuel pressure reg) Current driveline mods: Exedy hyper single series 6 puck cerametallic clutch and flywheel (It has 13000N of clamping goodness ) Eleven Ten Engineering cut and shut bellhousing Z32 300zx gearbox R33gts-t diff KAAZ 1.5 way centre. Oiling: Aviaid 4 stage oil pump(1.25inch pump sections) Aviaid 2 gallon tank Custom alloy oil pan Earls oil thermostat Cooling mods: Nismo thermostat eBay alloy radiator eBay oil cooler Current Suspension and bracing mods: Hsd monotube coilovers with 16 way damper Origin drf-sr7 wheels 17"x9.5" +15 offset Front and rear strut braces Agi 4 point cage White line sway bars front and rear Adjustable lower control arms front and rear Hardrace castor arms GKTech camber arms GKTech toe arms GKTech solid subframe bushes Current dyno sheet:
  13. s13 sr20 in s14

    hey guys have found a lot of different answers have a s13 sr20det in my garage and was trying to see if I am able to put it in my 14 series 1 as I blew her up. so just want to know if I can put the s13 motor in my 14 and still be able to have it registered thanks so much
  14. Well, after establishing the wild-fire spread group on FB with such high demand, and over 680 members, Loz Glen has been happy for Team S14 to migrate to join NissanSilvia.com. We are very proud to jump on board with NS.com as this will help us: Reach a lot more S14 owners Have an abundance of archived and organised Technical information, galleries, build threads and meet ups So, rather than ramble on, simply tell us who you are, what you drive and why! Who: John Smith What I drive: Zenki or Kouki What I do: Concrete-Dancer, Grip-King, Hard-parker or Church St happy laps kgothnxbye!
  15. Why hello there! I have yet to ever make a build thread but yet I've built a few cars so I figure before I finish this car I may just do a build thread on it! So a little under a year ago I bought this fine piece of machinery with the intentions of making it a really cheap track car just to learn in! When I got the car it had a snapped lower ball joint of which obviously needed to be fixed! But it came with a new lca and a strut as well so I just changed it when we got it home! The car was also missing reverse so I had to get another t50 which are way over priced now days for what they are! And then I began thinking what mods could I do if I just ripped the engine out and done the gearbox and engine in one hit! after spending a decent amount of money on the gearbox and a new heavy duty clutch, lightweight flywheel and such I realised I needed to do some more mods otherwise ill only be able to do skids pretty much in the wet because a 16v 4age isn't the most powerful of motors . So I decided to go full out and rebuild this car from ground up! I started buying useless crap left right and centre, spending everthing I earned (apprentice mechanic so it's not too hard to spend all that you earn). and then everyhting came to a hault because I started going out with some sluz and it ruined my mind set on this car so the fruit box just sat in the shed for months on end gathering dust! At the end of December I decided I needed it going because I was going crazy without having a drift car! I bought a w55 box and got a bellhousing to convert it to fit the 4age, due to my intentions towards doing a 4agte build would surely break the t50! After a very long process of gathering parts I wouldn't actually use in the future of that present moment, I decided to price up my engine build for forged pistons and all the bells and whistles. After seeing the price of that and seeing how much reliable power I would actually make it saddened me, I was hoping to find an easy 220-250kws but to get that it would cost me so much out of a 4age! That's the moment I decided to go sr. ill leave it at that for the moment but keep in mind these pictures are from last year about this time, I can assure you the car is very different at this moment, but I figure why ruin all the fun now and tell you everyhting in the one hit? Haha Why hello there! I have yet to ever make a build thread but yet I've built a few cars so I figure before I finish this car I may just do a build thread on it! So a little under a year ago I bought this fine piece of machinery with the intentions of making it a really cheap track car just to learn in! When I got the car it had a snapped lower ball joint of which obviously needed to be fixed! But it came with a new lca and a strut as well so I just changed it when we got it home! The car was also missing reverse so I had to get another t50 which are way over priced now days for what they are! And then I began thinking what mods could I do if I just ripped the engine out and done the gearbox and engine in one hit! after spending a decent amount of money on the gearbox and a new heavy duty clutch, lightweight flywheel and such I realised I needed to do some more mods otherwise ill only be able to do skids pretty much in the wet because a 16v 4age isn't the most powerful of motors . So I decided to go full out and rebuild this car from ground up! I started buying useless crap left right and centre, spending everthing I earned (apprentice mechanic so it's not too hard to spend all that you earn). and then everyhting came to a hault because I started going out with some sluz and it ruined my mind set on this car so the fruit box just sat in the shed for months on end gathering dust! At the end of December I decided I needed it going because I was going crazy without having a drift car! I bought a w55 box and got a bellhousing to convert it to fit the 4age, due to my intentions towards doing a 4agte build would surely break the t50! After a very long process of gathering parts I wouldn't actually use in the future of that present moment, I decided to price up my engine build for forged pistons and all the bells and whistles. After seeing the price of that and seeing how much reliable power I would actually make it saddened me, I was hoping to find an easy 220-250kws but to get that it would cost me so much out of a 4age! That's the moment I decided to go sr. ill leave it at that for the moment but keep in mind these pictures are from last year about this time, I can assure you the car is very different at this moment, but I figure why ruin all the fun now and tell you everyhting in the one hit? Haha
  16. Newby from Victoria

    Hello all, My name's Marcus I'm 17 and I live in Victoria. I'm completely car crazy, especially when it comes to modifying. I learnt to drive when I was 8 by my biological father on his property using an 1984 Ford Laser S. When I was 12 or 13 (I can't remember) My Stepdad got a ke70 that was my cousins for me and my siblings to do motorkhana's in, Long story short I crashed it But by then I was Ke70 MMMMAAAAAAAAAAAADDDDDDD! So when I was 15 I bought another one. I'm a newly joined nissansilvia member but have been veiwing as a guest for a while. I'm a member of rollaclub with the name 'Ke70 Fan'. I'm currently building an sr20de powered ke70. This is the build thread on rollaclub http://www.rollaclub...cuss-sr20-ke70/ I posted a build thread on here but because I'm new it has to be approved, so if a moderator is viewing this could you please approve it? Thanks EDIT: It's up now, called 'Marcus' sr20 Ke70' I look forward to getting to know new people and learning new thing and I hope I contribute something of value to this community This pic is quite out of date but it's the latest with the whole can in it (And under the 2mb upload limit) Check the build thread for the whole story.
  17. Marcus's Sr20 Ke70

    Finally thought it was time to put up my build thread. This is just me copy pasting what I posted on my rollaclub build thread. Btw this engine and gearbox was from the 'blingcommander' on this forum. If you haven't checked his 86 build out do so http://www.nissansil...howtopic=516392Expect it to be VERY long, sorry Some of the pics were too big to upload to the forum, so i linked them to my flickr account. ----25/03/13---- First a bit about me. My name is Marcus and I’m 17. I’ve been hooked on cars my entire life, it’s so true my first words were brooom broom, haha. At 12 my Dad bought me a 1981 ke70 from my step cousin. It sat in the backyard for 9 months and we never did any motorkhana’s like was ment so one night me and my mate snuck it out and went for joyride, 5 hours of fun ultimately due to some crappy circumstances and probably karma ended with this…. Needless to say it never drove again. But I'd got the ke70 bug, and even when a few opportunities came up to get another car I turned them down as I was determined to get another ke70. When I turned 15 for a few hundred bucks as that’s how cheap they were then I got a beige 1981 beige ke70. This is what it looked like when I got it. It’s at my dad’s place ‘Traction Tyres’ in Rowville where I currently work Saturday mornings. Immediately I installed the wheels from my last car, tore out the interior, took off front bumper, gutted rear bar and reattached with cable ties, made a fly off handbrake and painted on the go fast racing stripes http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream In the next couple weeks my dad got the diff welded and an exhaust made, 1.75 inch with resonator and muffler. It had to be legal volume to compete in motorkhana’s which were the goal for the car. http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream Before it made a motorkhana we took it to a farm in Nagambie for some bush bashing, gave the car hell; it was rough and wet This is what it ended up looking like. Took it up a second time, this time it was dry and when an acquaintance of mine took the wheel the diff blew up! So could the day get worse? As it turns out yes it could. On the way home a ratchet strap snapped and the car half fell off the trailer. Luckily only minor damage, broken grill, slightly dented sills (straightened them back out) and a cut in the sheet metal at the back of the car (where I tied the excess of strap too). So began the hunt for a new diff, a friend of my dads who works at a wreckers came through with what was thought to be a t series, I also got xt130 lca’s. It came with a one piece tailshaft to suit a ca18det, 2 rooted shocks and 2 cut kings falcon springs. On top of that it was minispooled, all for $400! Sent the diff of to be rebuilt due to the unknown condition and what we here back is that it’s actually a shortened r31 skyline diff; Score! So installed the lca’s and diff making the stock tailshaft fit and some new rear shocks as well, leaving the stock springs in because it is was to be used off road and other than not having a handbrake it was all good Didn’t have a shed so it sat out back and one night in a hailstorm the driver window shattered so got another. Nothing much happened until our shed was built. I was now 16 and soon after I got the itch to do something to it so I bought a new steering wheel, pedal covers and gear knob. For Christmas 2012 I got the best present ever! A huge KingChrome tool chest! It’s f**king awesome Had a 32/36 weber off my dad’s Holden Gemini race car as he was going to twin 40 DCOE’s so I bought an adapter plate and a family friend helped fit it up including cutting and rewelding the throttle wheel to make it work. I then just had to make up a mount for the throttle cable and one for the return spring. Here’s some pics… It competed in its first motorkhana, even without a handbrake I came first in class and if I remember correctly 5th outright, not bad at all. I’d always planned an engine conversion so I used all my saving to buy lots of bits and pieces for a conversion and an s14 sr20DET from an s13 with manual gearbox, loom and crossmember and that’s when my conversion started, just kidding!!!! I was ripped off on the motor and never saw my $2k again >:< Anyway…… Over the next couple months I saved up a few hundred bucks and bought ae86 strut’s with hubs and brakes, Techno toy tuning steering arms and tierods as well and they’re lower control arm kit. Due to be being too difficult for me to get right the kit never went anywhere and still sits in a box on my shelf but the struts were installed with a mate one late night in the shed. With no spring compressor it became a big job, uninstalling the lower control arms and castor rod mounts. It’s also probably good to point out that there was still no power in my shed and only 1 workers light running off an extension cable to the back of the house I then cut out the rust in the rear arches and installed flares due to the slight increase in track and knowing I was always going to lower it with some bigger wheels. Because for now the car had to have stock suspension I mounted them as low as possible to make it have less monster truck guard clearance. Also The shed now got power and lights, w00t! Chiseled out the last of the sound deadening. Found a set of cheviot 13x5.5 rims for only $100, so I bought them, cleaned them and painted them Going to be used for burnouts. I turned 17. Next I bought some SAAS reclinable seats (this was a few months later), a hydraulic handbrake and brake proportioning valve. I sent it off to PowerPlay in Cheltenham who prep race cars to install them, including making new seat mounts lower down so I could sit as low as possible (I’m 6’2). Very happy with their work it’s top notch. Unfortunately the r31 calipers don’t like hydraulic handbrakes and they seized so in went commodore calipers with new flexible lines. After another couple months sitting around it entered its second motorkhana. Came first in class again and 3rd outright, could possibly have won outright if not for the car stalling during a 180 spin into reverse, but very happy none the less We then come to January 2013, no more school this year as I left after year 11 and on my daily eBay searches came up a complete sr20de conversion kit out of an ae86. Went all the way out to the country to see and test drive it as it was still in the car, I was happy with it apart from a gearbox that seems on its way out, so I bought it along with the JDM EFI fuel tank and lines as I couldn’t be bothered with my surge tank and bosch 044 (another item purchased for the originally intended DET). The engine mods consisted of rocker stoppers and oil cooler with filter relocation. It was running the factory ecu on a modified loom so I was happy that the engine would be fine for much time to come given the bulletproof nature of them. It also had an rb20 gearbox for an improved shifter position in the corollas. This was sold to me by blingy from nissansilvia.com, Check out his 86 build: http://www.nissansil...pic=516392&st=0 In the time before it arrived I pulled the dash out and am going to use the top dash cover to make a custom dash, I removed the heater and also painted the rest of the interior trims, installed plastic rear windows and gutted the rear doors too. Can't even tell they're plastic http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream The conversion arrived the next week and proceeded to sit for another month. I wanted to use the 4k in one last motorkhana and see if I could blow her up after a killer burnout but due to my dad not having enough time to take me to a motorkhana and my mate coming around one night trying to convince me to get started it never eventuated. So that very night 2 weeks ago we set out to pull the motor out. First off I removed the mud caked exhaust and couldn’t resist giving it a rev….. Damn it’s loud! My mate videoed it, doesn’t give it justice. Check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOp7u7IlY6Q I plan on doing some vids soon so subscribe if you want to make sure you see them. Started at 9:30 we got the motor out by our 3am goal. Removed the battery tray as the battery is being relocated to passenger rear seat area. (It was a 38 degree day Next I installed the modified front crossmember and hammered the trans tunnel for clearance. My mate came over and as we proceeded to install the engine and gearbox the borrowed engine crane gave out, luckily slowly enough that it didn’t break the sump. Modified - Top Standard - Bottom Because we got annoyed we couldn’t do anything we took all the springs out to see how it would sit, sadness + slammed = HAPPY My Mate Aaron Thumbs up of approval The next night the new engine crane arrived and I worked into the morning to fit the engine myself. Because of how the engine is mounted and it’s clearances I ended up having to drop the crossmember, position engine down, bolt up the engine to crossmember and then lift the engine with crossmember into place. Over the next couple days I didn’t do much, cut out the new shifter hole and the top radiator support beam and installed the springs back in, this time using the falcon springs. Ordered a new radiator with shroud and fans as the one that came with the conversion was beat up after a front end hit. It came with wrong shroud so they’re sending me the right one. It puts the shifter in the absolute perfect spot! Also bought solid engine mounts/bushings as I planned on solid mounting everything. On top of that I got sick of working with a tiny ass jack so bought a new one; it’s going to make life so much easier Most importantly I ordered my wheels from America! I modded the ae86 tank with the ke70 filler neck to make it work. Just need to replace the fuel feed line with the one from the 86’s lines; I’ll do this on a hoist. I installed the solid engine bushings only to find I am going to need to cut and reweld the mounts as they weren’t accurately done which wasn’t an issue with rubber bushings due to them taking up the slack. A gearbox crossmember will need to be made too; all these structural things with be easiest done on a hoist so in a couple weeks, after Easter it’ll be off to work. My wheels arrived at work in only 4 business days, very impressed. They’re Flat Black XXR 527’s in 15x8.25, 0 offset. I bought six as I wanted to be able to swap the rears quick plus have spares if any got damaged. I mounted up 2 Yokohama AO50’s (The fastest R Spec tyre in the world, no question) and 4 AO48’s. Yes grip tyres, as the first shakedown of this car will be at Winton for circuit testing not drift. I also needed the right size tyre to relocate my flares and sort out clearances; they’re 205/50/15’s. Unfortunately I couldn’t bolt them up as I need tuner style nuts, so I ordered some in both the Nissan thread size and Toyota due to the rear end swap. You can tell they look sweeeeeeeeeeeet anyway! Finally going to fill my guards Bolted up the tailshaft from the diff I bought over a year ago and it fits, score! Then fitted up exhaust, just going to need to make one mount about mid-way for extra rigidity. Now you’re up to date with where I’m at. A lot got done in 2 weeks! In the coming weeks I be trying to sort out the wiring, battery relocation and other stuff before it goes to work. I currently flat broke so as a friend of mine would say, I need to “just put on my job hat, my job shoes and find a job” before expensive shit gets done. The build is happening in two stages; Getting the engine conversion sorted and using it for a bit, then a strip down for a complete rebuild. So what are the future plans? -Tubbed Front guards -Seam weld entire car -Fill and smooth engine bay -Paint engine bay and underbody in truck bed coating -Paint interior shell -Roll Cage -Rest of Techno toy tuning kit including 4 link, adjustable lca’s, traction brackets and tension/castor rods -Shockworks coilovers with custom spring rates decided after corner weighting the car -AJPS roll centre adjusters; height will be decided after measuring the roll centre with all the new parts adjusted and working out where I want my roll centre. -2 tone paint job; gloss red on the bottom and satin black on top The Plans after all this is completed and used for say a few months or a year is a sr20det swap and to make my own widebody kit and possibly look at production of it. Sorry for the absurd length of the start post, wish I’d done it earlier and it would have been a lot shorter. The next ones will be I promise. Now here is the end, Hope you enjoy the thread and updates will be constant ----25/03/13---- Mad Marcus
  18. My 180SX, P plate madness

    Thought id start a topic on my 180SX, bought it september last year after i caught onto the new power to weight laws for P Platers. Done a little since then sorta fixing other peoples dodgey mods and trying to upgrade on a tiny budget. As it stands: 95 180SX SR20DET, unsure on power T28bb turbo Turn flow cooler Blitz exhaust Unknown computer Walbro fuel pump Bilstein struts + springs Adjustable everything in the rear Strut braces front and rear Oil cooler and remote filter Bodywise, few dints, crap paint, standard sideskirts, CA bar (not fitted), Bomex Bonneville rear skirt (rare??) Probably some other stuff i cant remember, anyway some pics Day i bought it, How it looks now: Fixed various things along the way, driveshafts, suspension arms, water leaks, and much more. Just waiting for my diff to have its backlash set and i can drive it again. Thanks for looking
  19. Hi guys, Recently got around to fitting the upgraded fuel system and am stumped on this issue, I have stable idle at 14.7 & ~950rpm with 43psi base pressure however for some reason I cannot get the car to 'richen up' under load. Setup thus far E10 100 with the plan to move to E85 hence overkill system Intank Bosch lift pump to surge with twin external 044's -8 to rail with EV14 2200cc injectors Turbosmart Fpr1200 with -6 return, reg set to 43psi base with no vacuum attached I'm running a power FC with wideband and fc-datalogit and no matter what I do to the map I cannot enrich the 'under load' afr's regardless of what is entered into the map, light load shows 12 - 13 afr's while increased load raises afr's to mid 16's ie the opposite of what I expect. I've tried entering via lap top and hand controller, the powerfc accepts the changes but the changes do not affect the afr's. I've checked the intank pump both externals, TPS voltage confirmed at 0.45v, plugs pulled with all cylinders firing well. Double checked everything ie surge / fpr plumbing, all wiring, etc, etc, all ok. Injector settings have been entered as 16.8% with a -0.14 lag based on cc = factory 370cc / 2200cc = 16.8% lag = new of 0.495 - factory lag of 0.64 = -0.145 Inj Lag (mS) vs BatV is straight off the data on the ID site eg 16V 0.376 14V 0.496 12V 0.680 10V 0.952 8V 1.456 6v 1.9 It has me totally stumped now. Any ideas? If anyone has run EV14 2200 / ID2000 style injectors on a powerfc on an sr20 I'd love to know what settings you used. boli
  20. Hey guys, I've got an unusual starting issue with my S14a. The video explains exactly what's going on: The issue started a week ago when 2 out of 5 tries, the engine turned over and started up. Now it doesn't do it at all. The starter simply makes a loud click noise when turning the key. Push starting the car is fine so it's definitely a starter motor / electrical issue. I checked the electricals (proper voltage, working relays etc), tested it all with a new odyssey battery from another car but no luck. So I decided to tap the starter motor with a hammer, and it started straight away. Awesome I thought, I'll just repair the starter so I pulled it out and took it down to the shop to be reconditioned. $200 later, it came back with a new brush box and brush bearing kit. Put the starter back in and it STILL WON'T START. The voltage that the starter sees when trying to crank is between 11.9V and 12.4V. The interesting thing that you can notice from the video is that the engine starts to turn over but then stops. It's as if the starter motor doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. Could it be that the auto electrician didn't fix the starter motor properly? What should have been done to it? They didn't touch the solenoid so could it be that? Oh and I tried hitting the reconditioned starter but no luck in that department. Any help would be great!! Thanks!
  21. I've been checking out a lot of the circuit orientated builds on here lately and figured its at least time to put up a link and some basic info to my 180sx build in progress. The plan started out simple enough to have a mild powered dedicated circuit s chassis but soon got out of hand on the fabrication front. So now its a lightweight mild horsepowered build that I hope to run in supersprints, door to door events such as iRace and some hill climbs too. http://www.facebook.com/ProFab180sx
  22. KB's 180sx build

    So basically I've been thinking about posting about my project for a while now, been building it for the last year and is almost finished this is the write up so far. ENGINE/DRIVELINE: s14a motor jdm IHI izuzu turbo diesel turbo hks intake/ greddy fmic shimmed diff r33 gtr fuel pump all fuel lines replaced HKS full 3 inch turbo back exhaust SUSPENSION/BRAKES r33 5 stud upgrade s15 front hubs megan racing tie rods polyurethane bushing all round, hicas lock bar Tein HA coilovers r33 lcas Hydraulic handbrake soon to be installed gktech brake lines soon to go in INTERIOR bride zeta 2 soon to be vios and stradia passenger apexi el gauges nardi steering wheel/ interior stripped, rear seats out aircon stripped EXTERIOR chuki kit (use to be kouki but sold due to financial issues) sr side skirts soon to go on type x rear lights garden trim front lip custom made foggies WHEELS use to have work vsxxs but sold to upgrade the brakes so now i have XXR 527s which are 17s by 9.75 +15 watch this space, will be doing an update when i get it painted etc
  23. Hello All, Can some one please assist me... I am looking to convert my sr20det speedo sender from electronic to cable. After some research I hear the r32 had a mechanical cable drive. When I looked on line the shaft looked like it maybe too long? Can anyone tell me if the r32 mechanical speedo drive will fit my sr20 box? Thank you,
  24. hi guys and girls decided to start building a sil80 It all started when i bought a mx5 and decided to turn it into a track car after going to a few track days at winton! A few months later a guy wanted to swap for his sil80 and i said yes since i loved the look of it! It had a blacktop sr20det in it that was completely stock! The only problem was that it was a auto Since im only 17 i couldn't afford to rego it and pay for insurance so i got my father to week after getting the rego i started building it from ground up keeping the bottom end stock Updated from 20/4/13 92 s13 specs will add pics later when its rolling Engine: as of 27/01/13 Sr20det redtop hks2835 0.86 A/R. rear turbine housing nismo 740 cc injectors stock plenum bc cams 264 int 264 ext 12.06mm lift Adjustable cam gears z32 afm nistune ecu tomei RAS bc aftermarket valve springs and retainers Bosch 040 cometic gasket 1.3mm thick arp stud kit: head studs, exhaust studs, flywheel bolts 3 inch exhaust with rear section straight pipe Driveline: s14 box just had a full check over and 5th/reverse selector fork fixed xtreme 6 puck clutch lightened flywheel r33 diff Suspension: Cusco coilovers with adjustable chamber tops Aftermarket tie rods not sure which brand Cusco camber arms Brakes r33 gtst 4 pot front calipers r33 gtst 2 pot rear calipers new seals put through all of them BM44 brake master cylinder Stock front discs and rear discs r33 rear hubs s15 front hubs on s15 uprights and lca's Wheels: TE37's sprayed white, will be sprayed black soon 18x9 front 18x9.5 rear toyo r888 semi slicks interior is stripped still need to buy seats etc And my street car 94 180sx sil80 Engine: sr20de pretty much stock except for pacemaker headers 2.5 inch exhaust system 3 inch tip Driveline: 5 speed turbo box heavy duty exedy clutch stock r180 lsd diff Suspesion; Tein superstreet coilovers Brakes: stock 1 pot calipers all round bm34 cylinder cheaped out on the 5 stud upgrade and bought gktech 4 to 5 stud adapters Wheels: 18x9 front and rear concave concept wheels +22 offset stretched bridgestone potenza re001 225/40/18 Interior is stock
  25. I have myself an S14a, basic mods such as Tomei turbo, 1000cc injectors, 264 cams etc. I got a Microtech with a running tune for the same mods from a friend and wired it has half piggy back half stand alone if that makes sense. The ignition and injector wires were cut from the standard ecu and connected directly to the Microtech. The power, ground, water temp, throttle position and 'crank 1 & 2' were spliced into the original ecu's wires. The car cranks but the orange light on the Microtech won't flash when it does. Checked both spark and injector pulse and have nothing. Any help or advice is appreciated ! Cheers
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