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Found 53 results

  1. Hey folks, I recently picked up a 180sx and I'm just trying to clean my firewall for scrutineering. I came across this connector that's been bridged but I have no clue what it is and why it's been bridged. Also have no idea about 180's and there are literally no workshop manuals for the cars I'm coming from an MX-5 and riding background. Where that bit of wiring loom is located on the driver side in between the firewall and the shock tower. Hope that helps you help me identify it hahaha Have a good one folks!
  2. Today started pretty bad and ended even worse. 180sx, 1990, CA18det... This morning just before I got to work I realised my car was over heating... Turns out the radiator split and water was coming out. Not that huge a deal, caught it before anything major happened. On the way home (short couple of km with fullish radiator and cool engine) all the electrics died. Once I rolled to a safe area on the side of the road i heard a very fast "ticking" sound so I disconnected the battery to prevent arcing and fire. I later realised it was some noise made from turning on the hazard lights. They didn't work but a solenoid or something was going crazy. Now the only electrics that seem to work is the clock. All fuses are fine. Battery is fine. Any help would be great please. 87sf
  3. Hey guys, I recently had to reshell my S13 Silvia and my new shell was originally a CA18de, while my original was SR20de which I've now converted to turbo while reshelling. When I went to start it and after cranking for a bit, I noticed it didn't even sound like it wanted to start at all. So since the fuel pump was priming (although it doesn't anymore which is a mystery to me now since fuses seem good) I figured it wasn't getting spark, so I decided to test to see if it was getting spark but holding a coilpack with a sparkplug in it against a bolt on the engine while cranking the motor. After I saw no spark there I decided to crack the test light out and locate the issue. I started at the coilpack loom and quickly found myself at the ECU and realised it wasn't getting any power, which I then traced to the plugs where the passenger headlight is (which I rewired for the conversion according to what I found on the internet) and wasn't getting power to the ECU there either. I also noticed that the EGI relay is only getting power on 1 pin with the ignition on, where as the other relays in the fuse box get power at 2 pins. Is the EGI relay related to the ECU getting power? If so, where does the relay get it's power from? Or would it just be that I wired those plugs at the passenger headlight incorrectly? I just colour matched the wires as per what I read. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I can't figure this out for the life of me, among other electrical issues such as the cluster backlights not turning on, foglights not working, rear parkers/brakelights and only one headlight working, but those are all the least of my worries at the moment.
  4. Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and just wanted to say hi but I'm having a little issue with my car right now and I was wondering if anyone on here would be able to help me out. So, I dont like the aerial on my car so I decided i should do something about it as it always extends whenever my head unit is turned on even when im not listening to the radio and it makes my car look like a rc car. Being the genius I am i decide to cut the loom thats running to the aerial motor, but i forgot to unhook the negative terminal of the battery. the car and all its electrics are now no longer working. the battery still has a voltage (around 7v) and there are no blown fuses but there are fuses that are not receiving power. does anyone have any ideas on what i could do?
  5. ok so i'm at the point where i'm in need of some wiring fingerbanging guy/chick to come and say have you checked this and its 1 little wire or something i've missed and then she starts. So i done the whole SR20de to SR20DET conversion and the 2 wires behind ze headlight bridged (thanks to wizard and his mad soldering skills) now this is all that should have needed to be done to go bang bang but no... issue 1. No power to ecu pin 36 Issue 2. No Fuel pump priming issue 3. Passenger window wont work now... (No its not the amp) issue 4. Wiper is turned on After repairing a few wires from a doner loom (Another thanks to wizard) she seems to be getting spark to all coils and all injectors are pulsing and she wants to start buuuut NO FUEL! the EGI relay seems to be clicking off and on like it should and ive checked every fuse 3 times now after every attempt to fix and my fingers are killing ive tried grounding the thick blue/red stripe wire from fuel pump and that still dont work i removed old pump and replaced with a walbro new cradle and wiring just coz and still no priming. i tried bridging the power wire to fuel pump wire in brown plug but think i hit the wrong wire as thats when the wipers turned on - obviously i disconnected it but its still acting as if its on when its off. Any thoughts of saving me from going insane is deminishing at an alarming rate and would happily accept anyones thoughts or ideas on what possible things i can check PS. wipers and window can go to hell for the moment its winter anyways
  6. The problem started when I replaced my broken cluster with digital speedo with a working one. First I noticed the radio stopped working, checked the fuse and it was blown so I replaced that and it'll be fine but the radio still would not come on. Every now and then the fuse will blow again. The interior light also stopped working Door open signal light is always on When I turn the front interior light to the "on" position, the clock stops working and would come back on when I switch the light off (however the light does not come on) When interior light gets switch "on" the "door open" light comes on brighter but interior light doesn't work The battery gets drained overnight if I leave the terminal plugged in Not quite sure where to start. Anyone seen or had same/similar problem? Any suggestions on what I should look at?
  7. Hey guys My car is a 1996 180sx type x, its throwing itself into a limp mode Symptoms: after idling for a while or driving for a while or the car cuts out, it will still idle fine but when I accelerate the car will rev to 1500 then cut injector duty cycle till revs come back down to 1000 then rev to 1500 cut injector duty cycle till 1000, this will happen constantly until i turn the car off for 5 seconds then restart the car. What i have done to try and diagnose the problem: I have tried different ecus, air flow metres, cam angle sensors, throttle positioning sensors. I have plugged the car into a scan tool and it shows no fault codes, no reasons what so ever as to whats causing the issue, all it tells me is that it is cutting injector duty cycle at 1500 when the issue occours, the ecu is reading everything fine as if there is no issue, I have also checked to see if its cutting spark while it cuts the duty cycle and its still getting spark the whole time. Does anyone have any idea what can cause the injectors to cut out like this? Any help is greatly appreciated, also if anyone has had this problem and fixed it please let me know what the issue was.
  8. hey guys if any one can help that would be awesome. i started my car (nissan s15) and took it for a quick drive the other day, i havent driven it much in the last two years as i have been building it but still started it and driven it every week or so. when i pulled back in to the driveway my car basically stalled on low revs and so i started it back up and it done the same. started it again with some revs and it was ok as long as i held the revs up (900 or so) . popped the hood and my oxygen sensor plug had fallen off and landed on the manifold and melted it. melted down to the metal pins. got back in my car and noticed my engine check light was flashing. is this something that a melted oxygen sensor plug could cause? the problem went away once i reconnected the pins etc and the light went away but now comes back on randomly. and then goes again. questions is - can the 02 sensor cause the engine check light to flash if its melted to the pins? Can i cut the plug and just solder the 3 wires together? do i need to get a diagnostics thing to remove the fault and is that why it keeps flashing at random times? never had any issues before until i melted it . still went out to the motorkhana on sunday with it and no issues. light did come on a few times and dissappear. thanks
  9. hey guys! got my s15 the other day and have found some electrical faults with it... the JDM model which i own has electrical folding mirrors, now .. only the right one will fold in and the left one doesnt (when it should) another problem is that the electric adjustment mechanism on the car works with the left mirror but not the right lol? its odd i know, any suggestions? fuse? wiring? mechanical problem within the device CHEERS
  10. Hi all, just wondering if anyone can help out with my dash lights. I have a feeling that the fuse is blown but the fuse diagram is all in Japanese. If anyone has any suggestions it would be awesome. Cheers.
  11. Hi, the other day walked out to see my two outside projectors were on even though the switch was off and so i disconnected the battery. Upon trying to fix it later that day, reconnecting the battery both outside projectors and another light had come on. Sounds like a problem with the relays no? Being very new to the silvia platform i was wondering if any of you fellows could tell me the location and make my job a lot easier Also anyone wouldn't happen to have a .pdf of the workshop manual for the s13 that they could send me? I'd be forever grateful! Thanks in advance. For those wondering. Club Ks S13, 1992, SR20DET 5 speed
  12. I recently crashed my 180sx sr20 after the accident i was able to start my car even though the cooler had been ripped off and i was able to reverse it off the tow truck, the car went to the panel beaters comes back with no spark, earths are connected and clean. I have an ecu talk which is getting power from the ecu but wont connect and i didnt have this problem before it went into the panel shop at all. if anyone has any ideas as to what has happened please let me know all fuses are fine everything needed is plugged in and all earths are clean and groundced. cheers
  13. Hi Guys, I've just had the dash out to extend my turbo timer and boost controller wiring, I've put everything back together and strangely when I connected up the battery (I should note that it sparked, normally doesn't) my parker's are constantly on, the position on the stalk is off, I haven't had a chance to check any fuses, but I always assumed if the fuse blew then they would stop working, not the other way around. Has anyone had a similar problem or some expertise in the area that can help? Thanks in Advance. Just wanted to add another note, everything works properly, all lights, indicators, headunit, etc, only just the parkers being stuck on.
  14. Hi guys, I have a problem with my S15...When i accelerate, even slightly it will miss/splutter between 2000rpm-3500rpm. Once the revs pick up it seems to go fine, no problem. It idles fine, and doesn't seem to have any problem when cold, however the problem appears and gets worse as the engine warms up. So after the engine gets hot its pretty much undriveable. So in summary, cold (running less than 10-15min), idle and high revs or almost zero accelerator and it is all ok but when hot, low revs and it will misfire. Its fairly stock, just FMIC, pod, 3inch exhaust and split dump. I just put on a brand new AFM as i thought that was the problem but it didnt help at all. 12 month old fuel pump O2 sensor is only 18 month old. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Michael
  15. So heres the situation; Upgraded to FRP front guards last week over the stock ADM steel guards. With FRP guards, I don't want to use the side indicators; Yes inb4 illegal etc. etc. Without the side indicators plugged in, Obviously when I go to indicator, They flash radically. Can anybody shed some light as to how to cancel out the side indicators from ADM s14a side guards so my front bar indicators and rear indicators aren't going skitz?
  16. Hey guys, Looking to convert my ignition system on my DE across to a DET ignition system for my new Haltech ECU. My question is what do I need to get to do the conversion? Thus far i know I need; - DET Crank angle sensor - DET Coilpack sub-loom - Standard Coilpacks - Ignitor - DET Rocker Cover Without having a DET engine that I can actually go and look at, is there anything else I need? At this point my plan would be to retain the Standard DE engine loom, to make things easy and wire that loom into the Haltech. Whilst I know that I would need to create a loom to accept the coilpack loom and run that to the Haltech, are there any other differences that I need to know about? Thanks in advance!
  17. Hey all, So im not sure if people in other states have the same problems, But here in SA we get defected for running Standard, factory fitted JDM HID headlights. Please dont ask why, I will explode. Anyway, Has anyone had experience either: -Temporairily retrofitting standard bulbs into the housings to pass defect/roadworthy etc. -Replacing lights (tempoarily) with ADM lights. I have access to some, it will just leave a mate without headlights for a few days lol. this isnt preferred. I imagine the wiring is different to bypass the ballast or something. I am no electrical wizz. Cheers for the help
  18. I had a topic in here somewhere about the same issue, was going to update it but now cant find it. Anyhow if anyone want to know the replacement or the "Niles IF302" (could be the same for s14 and up?) part number from NARVA for a compatible s13 flasher relay, its "68238BL" , ~$20 from repco. Genuine is like ~ $70 from nissan
  19. Okay so I'm sorry if this is stupid and doesn't belong here but I really don't know where to go next. I live in Adelaide and I am really craving a pair of S13 brick style headlights but can't seem to find them anywhere. If anyone has bought them self a pair and could tell me where from or anyone who has some for sale that would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  20. Put this in skyline tech forum but noticed there isn't much action in there. hey guys need some urgent help, I've got an rb25 in my 180 it having issues getting it going to get it tuned we've just gone and fitted up a new turbo, manifold and done an injector swap on my RB25, and while everything was pulled off i tidied up the wiring under the dash, it has a custom loom but in the initial wire up I forgot to add the unswitched power as we had troubles saving the map on the power fc last tune so i thought this may have been the cause, but now we've gone to power everyhting up to set the injector values before we start the car and the fuel pump relay is constantly clicking. I have the fuel pump neg on a switch so i can isolate that and when i do we can hear a feint clicking in the coil packs (disconnected the to check if it was). I've now disconnected all the wires i had played with and checked the power wires to the eccs relay but it still happens, If i check earth continuity at the relay i can get a beep on the multimeter on three pins, and there fore back at the fuse panel. could it be the relay has shit itself, as i though this shouldnt happen or with the power on will this happen. If any one has any ideas just throw them in the ring, I don't have another computer (stock or fc) at the moment to check if it will work with that but i can't see that i would have damaged anything in the computer so this shouldn't be it. I've tried a couple of things but any other ideas will be welcomed, Cheers Nick
  21. I have a type x 180 sr20det black top, recently bought the car and its had the issues since day 1 the car is completely standard except for cat back exchaust, front mount and a boost tee. The car will run perfectly fine apart from it will jump itself into a limp mode, it will do this after the reds being on for too long before starting (a few minutes) or after its warmed up. The issue will go away for a while if you turn the car completetly off (reds off) or 5 seconds or more When in this limp mode if i have my foot flat to the floor or anywhere on the accelorator it will rev to 1500 and drop back down to 1000, in gear it will wait till it hits 1000 revs befvore giving it any life again. example, i was driving along at 80kms and car went into this limp mode, the car slowed down till about 40ks n hour then reved back to 1500 revs and then wouldnt rev again till the revs had come back down to 1000 on the tacho (40 ks n hour), i think its cutting fuel, spark or both im not sure, its like its hitting rev limiter way too early. I need all the help i can get on this one as i feel i am chasing my tail. Has anyone had this issue before???????
  22. Alright boys, It's almost tune time for me, and the tuner up this way has quoted me almost $1000 to install my microtech, and since i have a mate that is an auto electrician that has installed ecu's before we decided we will do it ourselves.. I know that the auto electrician will have the best insight into it, but i was just wondering if anyone on here has installed/wired in a microtech and whether there is any hints/tips/dramas we will run into that you have insight into.. So yeah, anyone that has done it before, what were the dramas you ran into, and how did you over come them?? also, the i bought the ecu second hand so it didnt come with loom, so do i just order this one here?? http://microtechefi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36&product_id=89 obviously in the dropdown box i would select MT/LT8.. Thats all i need yeah?? once i get that im good to go?? Thanks heaps guys..
  23. So soulless twat stole my car and decided to cut through the wiring loom instead of just unplugging the ECU. Now I have a bunch of cut wires in place of the loom. Does anyone know if a SR20DE loom is the same as a SR20DET loom on a 180? Cheers in advance
  24. I went to start my 180 today and it didnt start and it hasnt been the first timeand to fix it ive been able to reset the ecu and then it starts, today I had the key to the ON position and touched the ecu and I instantly heard a big bang which scared the crap out of me, I have no idea what the hell it couldve been but I eventually got together the balls to try and start the car and it started and ran fine, any ideas what the hell made the bang? Did I big time explode a fuse?
  25. Hey Silvia Gurus, need some help. The Environmental Protection Agency here in NSW Australia have seen it fit to hand me a Emissions Defect notice because my 1990 RB20DET powered 180sx's engine light or Catalitic Converter warning lamps do not light up. Thing is, I need evidence that 1990 180sx's Do not have a check engine light in the first place, and that the cat light should only light up when the cat overheats. Otherwise, they're going to make me take my pride and joy off the road for good. Also, need to show how the EGR system on the RB20det (from an R32) works if it has one, I'm under the impression that it doesn't. Need this info within 2weeks otherwise it's goodbye to my 80. So... Help a brother out! Many thanks..
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