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Found 16 results

  1. Selling my titanium exhaust system, suits 180sx / type X NEW, for only $900
  2. S15 Trust/Greddy Side Mount Intercooler - $480 ONO Core approximate size: 195 x 240 x 105mm Extremely rare, great condition (no cracks or leaks), piping not included. Perfect stealth upgrade & no holes required. May fit S14,S13 Inbox here, or message me on : 0420 417 713 Serious enquiries only. No time wasters. Thanks
  3. For sale is a used stainless steel Greddy cat back exhaust to suit a S15 Silvia. It is a full 3 inch system with a 4.5 inch tip. For its size it is a quiet exhaust at low rpm but opens up towards redline. The exhaust is in good condition with only some scratches on the underside of the muffler. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/st-ives/other-parts-accessories/greddy-trust-pe-ii-exhaust-to-suit-s15/1113887409 $400 neg Local pick up only from St Ives.
  4. Hi guys, Since selling the S15, I have some aftermarket parts which the new owner doesn't want. Located in Bexley PM if interested. Kevin - ADM Steering Wheel - $130 - Greddy Type FV BOV with adapter $130 - BBS LM 17x9+20 (silver centres) with 245/45 Bridgestone tyre (plenty of tread) - $2200 - Genuine OEM bootlid with genuine Nissan/Nismo Aero Option Ducktail - $330 SOLD - C's short shifter - $280 SOLD - Replica V1 Top Secret Carbon Fibre Rear Diffuser (new) - $500 SOLD - Genuine OEM Front Aero bar including fog lights - $1400 SOLD - Genuine JDM OEM rear bar (no reflectors) - $350 SOLD - Beame branded Clear side indicators - $30 SOLD - Fiberglass headlight replacements for air intake - $200 SOLD - Trust under parcel strut Brace (Rear) - $180 SOLD - Nismo GT500 titanium gear knob 12mm - $150 ON HOLD - Greddy Type FV BOV with adapter - C's short shifter - Genuine OEM bootlid with genuine Nissan/Nismo Aero Option Ducktail -BBS LM 17x9+20 - ADM Steering Wheel
  5. Hallo, 43mm Radiator Top tank sprayed in black engine enamel for stealth bruh! Genuine GReddy Radiator cap Track proven radiator, has been punished a dozen times on Wakefield Park Distributed by Worley, which comes from the same factory that sells to ASI. $110 ONO or $100 firm lol Canley Vale, NSW, 2166
  6. S15 Parts

    25mm Fibreglass Front Guards. Unpainted Small crack in one, refer pic $175 URAS Style Rear Bar Painted Pearl White $150 Greddy Profec B Boost Controller $200 Caster Arms $100 Bee*R Limiter $175 Located Toowong
  7. S13 S14 R32 R33 parts in Wollongong, NSW. Prices are for pickup, can post for extra. ~~~~ suspension arms are new, have been installed in a car but not driven on. hardrace S13 adjustible rear lca $250 adjustible rear camber, toe and traction arms - $250 adjustible castor rods - $100 hard race adjustible tie rod ends $120 Gmax wheels, 17×8 17×9 5×114.3, both +35 offset. Tyres are a bit howyagoin. $650 S13 front guards, black, straight. $150 S15 front seats, great condition, $250 Stainless spaghetti manifold for sr, $150 R32 BM50, abs. $150 S13 Black sideskirt, fiberglass, look like aero but thinner. $100 S13 coolbox, no piping. $150 S13 struts with king springs, $100 ~~~ ARP main studs for RWD SR20. Used, as new. $100 PowerEnterprise PE1420 turbo on S13 manifold. Bought and never used, previous owner made 210kw @ 20psi. $500. Defi Link BF exhaust gas temp gauge with sensor, used. $150 Greddy PRofec boost controller, with solenoid $100 GReddy return flow FMIC for R33, all piping included $250 Cusco front strut brace for R33 $80 Veilside S14 S2 rear pods $50 SR20DET 3" stainless dump pipe $80 D1 spec catch can $30 Saber FMIC with angled piping welded on, $100 Tial BOV with v band clamp and some donor pipe $100 Falcon thermo fans $50 Fender braces for s13, came with a car I bought, unsure of fitment. $50 S13 CA18DET manual ecu $20 S13 SR20DET manual ecu $20 S13 SR20DET auto ecu $20 S13 SR20DE manual ecu $20 S13 stock corner lights, yellowish driver side, smokedish amber passenger side, good passenger with blue outline, $40 each S13 CA18DET flywheel with flywheel bolts $50 S13 SR20DE/T excedy stock replacement clutch, near new $50 S13 SR20DET inlet manifold/plenum, in pieces, no throttle body or injectors, $20 S13 SR20DET clutch fan $20 S13 SR20DE/T AFM $50 S13 SR20DET CAS $50 S13 SR20DET coilpacks $50/each S13 SR20DET stock radiator $50 S13 manual shifter boot+plate $20 S13 driver side rear LCA $40 S14 rear LCA, $50 each S14 non-hicas subframe, bare $50 S14 BM44 brake master cylinder $50 S14 overflow bottle $20 S14 3" catback $50 S14 S2 fiberglass vented bonnet, holes from bonnet pins, needs paint, $150 S14 S2 widebody front guards, in primer, $150 R32 driver side rear knuckle with 5 stud hub and handbrake setup, no rotor or caliper $50 R32 handbrake cables $20 R33 coupe rear garnish, light up "skyline". $20 R33 mirrors $20 each R33 S1 RB25DET afm, unknown condition $50 R33 4 door floormats, good condition, rear driver side needs a good clean, $80
  8. UP FOR SALE IS A BRAND NEW SET OF KOGUCHI POWER FRONT AND REAR FRP FENDERS TO SUIT S13 SILVIA FRONTS ARE 50mm (widest on the market) REARS ARE 70mm (widest on the market) GENUINE KOGUCHI POWER, NOT CHEAP KNOCK OFFS REARS ARE ALMOST $600AUD BEFORE INTERNATIONAL FREIGHT FRONTS ARE $425 BEFORE INTERNATIONAL FREIGHT BOTH THROUGH RHDJAPAN PICTURED IS A RED S13 WITH KOGUCHI POWER FENDERS FITTED, TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE ON THE CAR PICK UP IN MARRICKVILLE, OR CAN FREIGHT AT BUYERS EXPENSE $1200 NEGOTIABLE~ ALSO UP FOR SALE IS A SET OF 16 BLUE RAYS WHEEL LOCK NUTS GENUINE RAYS, BOUGHT FOR MY 5 STUD S13 (WAS GOING TO RUN 4 DIFFERENT LOCK NUTS, MAKING IT HARDER FOR THIEVES TO STEAL WHEELS) BRAND NEW, UNOPENED, BUT PACKAGE HAS DAMAGE COMING OVER FROM JAPAN TO SUIT S13 S14 S15 SILVIAs 180SX A31 CEFIRO C33 LAUREL AND OTHER CARS WITH A 12x1.25 THREAD PICK UP IN MARRICKVILLE, OR CAN POST AT BUYERS EXPENSE $100 POSTED~
  9. Brimstone103's Blue build

    Long time admirer but first time owner joining the S15 club. The car 1999 Nissan Silvia Spec R (jap ver.) Option B Blue Swede trim 80,000 km (I hope) Add-ons Front mount (HKS I think) Cat back Greddy Power Extreme GS X-force hi-flow cat Enkei RPF1 wheels with Kumo KU36 rubber BC V1 coilovers Greddy Profec Electronic Boost Controller Greddy turbo timer Yashio LED tail lights Blitz Boost gauge Walbro 255 fuel pump custom Lexus is250 Blue re-spray Alpine DVD head unit with Pioneer 6" speakers front and back. I picked up this beauty in a private sale early this year, the old owner was a painter by trade so he's re-sprayed the whole car in Lexus IS250 blue just for something a little different (over stock blue) and done an awesome job, not a scratch. I bought it for a daily driver so I'm not chasing big power but I'm working on making it a nice touring car for the weekends. Unigroup dyno tested it for me and the old owner had set the boost too high so I was running lean at best and getting detonationsat worst, I've just thrown a new fuel pump, the new greddy profec boost controller and a new exhaust at it and now so it's ready for a proper tune but running better than ever already. really excited to get some more projects underway, I'm thinking new brakes next. Proper pics coming soon
  10. Up for sale is the SR20 out of my 180SX drift car, which unfortunately I have decided to part out due to other commitments. The engine is brand new and still needs to be run in! - S14 blacktop motor - Built by Donny @ Forced Motorworx - Line honed head & block - Complete Tomei solid head conversion & mild porting - Tomei solid 260 procams - Tomei solid lifters - Brian Crower titanium valve springs & retainers - ARP head studs - MLS-R metal headgasket - Greddy cam gears - GK Tech rocker arm stoppers - S15 oil pump - Brian Crower H-Beam conrods - JE 9:1 forged pistons - ARP main studs - Extended & baffled sump - Oil block adaptor - Low mount power steering pump $5500 Lalor, VIC 0401651796
  11. I am trying to sort out my s14's suspension before i go in for a full alignment, so am in the market for some camber and toe arms. The car is primarily a daily (90% street / 10% track). Currently i only have Greddy coilovers all round and a strut brace. Was really liking the gktech products but they are sold out till the version 3 gear comes out after July. However they still have s13 toe arms instock at clearance prices and if i am able to make it work id like to grab one while their available. From my limited knowledge i though s13 and s14 toe arm were the same as ive had friends say they've used s14 arms on their s13. Can someone please tell me i am able to make these work for my s14? From the site says there is a 5mm difference in the rose joint insert, am i able to drill this out to fit or something? or possibly purchase different inserts from somewhere to use? im assuming they are just press fit http://www.gktech.co...-late-july.html Also can anyone point me in the direction of sub $200, decent quality camber arms. From previous threads i've read kkr and isc are under par but unsure if they have improved in quality. Also seen Hard Race available at a few shops including justjap. Decent?
  12. KB's 180sx build

    So basically I've been thinking about posting about my project for a while now, been building it for the last year and is almost finished this is the write up so far. ENGINE/DRIVELINE: s14a motor jdm IHI izuzu turbo diesel turbo hks intake/ greddy fmic shimmed diff r33 gtr fuel pump all fuel lines replaced HKS full 3 inch turbo back exhaust SUSPENSION/BRAKES r33 5 stud upgrade s15 front hubs megan racing tie rods polyurethane bushing all round, hicas lock bar Tein HA coilovers r33 lcas Hydraulic handbrake soon to be installed gktech brake lines soon to go in INTERIOR bride zeta 2 soon to be vios and stradia passenger apexi el gauges nardi steering wheel/ interior stripped, rear seats out aircon stripped EXTERIOR chuki kit (use to be kouki but sold due to financial issues) sr side skirts soon to go on type x rear lights garden trim front lip custom made foggies WHEELS use to have work vsxxs but sold to upgrade the brakes so now i have XXR 527s which are 17s by 9.75 +15 watch this space, will be doing an update when i get it painted etc
  13. Hey guys recently posted about this last week, just updating it. Need your opinion on this: Spent 1k on a stupid noisy exhaust with a hotdog resonator 2.5" (i dont even know if it is because they're dumb) should i go back and change things up or not bother? OR Waste more money and fix the mistake i made and buy a brand new proper silent exhaust, I'm after a jdm cannon with a big resonator. Problem is there is no real market for s15 NA's when it comes to exhausts (correct me if I'm wrong) and i really cant be bothered importing. Does anyone here know a business that supplies and does what i'm looking for? Get back to me guys, thanks heaps!
  14. When the alternator pulley removal process is raised, many people advise to wrap it in a rag or rubber belt, clamp it with vice grips, tighten the pulley belt, etc. If don't have a rattle gun and you can afford to remove it from the car, then there is a better way. The outer coil and the inner rotor of an alternator are separate pieces, with the shaft the pulley bolts onto being joined with the rotor. All you have to do is disassemble it and stick it in a bigass vice. Difficulty = 4 Where 10 is rebuilding an engine, and 0 is ripping a dry fart. Time Required = 15 minutes + removal + installation If painting the alternator, it will take a little longer. I painted mine a terracotta colour, as you do. Tools Required Two small allen keys or rods Bigass vice Philips #1 screwdriver 1/2" ratcket 12, 14, 24mm socket Process Step 1. Remove the alternator from the car. Refer to the Service Manual if you're unsure of the process. Step 2. Remove the outer four retention bolts, and gently tap the alternator to separate the rotor from the coil. Step 3. Secure the fixed magnet of the rotor in a bigass vice with serrated plates. Use the least amount of force required to secure it, as too much can cause cracks. Step 4. Remove the pulley with a socket driver, install the new one and torque to suit. With this method you have the option of using a torque wrench if desired. Step 5. Select the coil housing and remove the rubber plug at the back. Step 6. Flip the coil cover over and locate the brushes in the bottom. Depress the brushes using a small allen key (or similar), and hold in that position. Insert another allen key through the exposed hole on the back, and adjust the brushes until the allen key on the back slots through them (the brushes have a hole in them for this purpose). Step 7. Put the alternator back together (taking care to align the mount tabs correctly) and bolt everything down. Be sure to gradually tighten all bolts equally as you go, then remove the allen key from the back once finished. Insert the rubber plug as best you can. Step 8. Reinstall the alternator and back in the glory of your lighter, funkier pulley.
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