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Found 391 results

  1. Hi all, I’m hoping someone can help. Mom currently fitting an S15 SR20DET from an australian car into a 510. I’ve gone over and over my wiring to find a fault. All of the power wires are connected 36 - ignition power (checked) 46,109 - battery power (checked) 38,47 - power from ECM relay (checked) 4 - trigger seems to be operating the relay fine 6,13,39,48,107,108,116 are all earthed. Ive gone through the list of wire pin outs at the ECm and checked each wire individually. All of the wires that I can check without the engine running are within spec except for 7 - 12.1v (data link approximately 0.0v) 15 - 0.00v (data link 3-9v) 28 - no wire 106 - flashes 0.7v for a split second and goes to 0.00v (fuel pump relay 0-1.0v for one second after turning ignition on. More than one second after turning ignition on 11-14v) I found I had to move 106 to 104 for a JDM ECU, so I did that and the result is the same. i have tried to check it with a scan tool, but I’m guessing due to no voltage at the data link, it’s not talking to the scanner. are there any other wires that need to be swapped going from ADM to JDM ECU? is there a way of checking if the ECU is actually JDM? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  2. Hi all. I know this has been done before, but i am doing this again with a video to make it a bit easier for people to visualise what needs to be done! I have attached a video below of the process of installing the fog lights into your S15 weather they are factory or aftermarket the process is similar. This is a LOT easier and quicker if you have an imported S15 from japan, if you have an ADM (and possible NZD) s15, this process might be a bit longer for you, but will explain your extras in the write up and briefly in the video. Come along for the install! Written Tut! Ok so for those of you who would like some more info, or prefer a read up, here is is in a step by step fashion please drop any questions below! Step 1: You will need the following: - An S15 - A set of factory or aftermarket fog lights - You may also need some 6mm thread nuts and bolts and some washers from memory to mount the lights into the bumper - FOR IMPORTED SILVIA: - You may need an indicator stalk with the fog light switch, else you can follow the ADM/NZ optional Extras to get yours working. (if you are missing the stalk and want one, please PM me on YouTube as i am more likely to see it sooner, or you can PM me here and i will try get back to you as soon as i can with info on how to get one, or if i can source you one) - FOR ADM/NZ MODELS ONLY: - You will need a inline Fuse - Some wire (12 - 14 gauge) - A Switch which Turns you on.. ehem i mean, can be used to Turn on your Fog Lights (Honestly any switch which you would like to use will do, just keep in mind you need to mount this somewhere you can access it) Step 2 (optional): You may want to remove your front bumper for ease of access, or maybe not, i did, good luck should you choose not to Step 2.5: If you are trying to remove your bumper, i have circled the screw location in the video: - There are some near the wheel well closer to the wheel - One inside the bumper up near the light on each side -The ones at the front in between the lights - You may also have some at the bottom if you have a lip, or not Step 3: If your bumper has any mesh or covers where the fog lights go, you will need to remove them at this point. The ones from the non - Aero bar must be unscrewed from the inside, and then slid out from the inside. I assume those on the Aero Bumper are the same (if someone can confirm i will update Thanks) Step 4: Before we mount everything in place, we will test the lights to make sure they work! - If you have an imported SILVIA and are using the factory fog lights, please plug them both into the plugs which you can find around where they will sit on the bumper. If you cannot find the plugs, it is likely you have an ADM or NZ model of the S15, and you will need to do some additional work - If you are using aftermarket fog lights and you have a SILVIA with the plugs, you will need to create an adapter by buying the plug from a wrecker, or online if you can find them, or by using some spade connectors (probably the easiest option as i believe they will fit) - If you are using factory/aftermarket fog lights and you have an ADM/NZ model S15 without the plugs you will need to run wiring to the cabin yourself. Step 4.5(For ADM/NZ Models ONLY): You will need to make your own wiring for this, i am not 100% sure if your s15 comes with the relay or fuse, but no matter, we can do this without any factory wiring, follow the next few steps - You will need to create a plug which goes into your Fog Lights, weather they are factory or aftermarket, you should have 2 wires coming off each at this point. (i would use spade connectors as above but up to you) - You need to choose where you want to draw the power from at this point, You can grab it directly from the battery if you want, probably the easiest way, otherwise you will need to find a fuse you can tap into, i would use the battery but this is up to you. Find your power source. - Wire in your in-line Fuse, i recommend 30 amps, if you believe you know better please do as you like (we don't like fires here...) - Run your wire into the cabin if you are getting power from outside, there is a grommet under the driver side fender which does into driver foot well, run the positive cable into here and then wire in your switch and mount it somewhere accessible to you! - Run the negative off the switch back through the grommet and outside the cabin, into the bay, then rout it down to roughly where your fog lights will be - You will need to split your power source cable and make sure to leave some slack for each connector as you should plug them in before mounting the bumper back - Terminate the wire into either the proper connector or spade connectors (pick your poison) and then join both neg cables back together to make your life easy, and rout the neg to a bolt which connects straight to the chassy to ground the connection. Step 4.6(For SILVIA Import Model From Japan): - If you have an Indicator Stalk with the fog light switch, you do not need to follow the next part of this step - If you do not have the fog light switch on your stalk, you can either buy one and fit it, or follow step 4.5 to install the lights as you would in the ADM/NZ model, or you can do some research to find out where you can tap into the factory wiring in the cabin and just wire the switch in there (i did not go through this so cannot offer much assistance, but if you do go through this, please comment and let us know how you did it, would love to add the info to the Tutorial ) Step 5: Test your lights to see if they Turn on Step 6: If Step 5 was Successful go to step 7, if the lights did not come on, please make sure to check your wiring, or try reversing the polarity as you might have plugged positive into negative on the fog light. If this does not fix your issue, you need to make sure your wire is plugged in and perhaps try using a multi meter to test for power and ground. If you are using factory wiring make sure the fuse and relay are installed in the fuse and relay box Step 7: Unplug your lights and mount them into the bumper (factory will go straight in, just need the mentioned bolts from above) If you have aftermarket lights, you might need to make your own bracket. Step 8: Mount your bumper back onto the car and plug the lights in at the same time Step 9: Clean and final test! Step 10: Profit? Please post some pics below of how yours turned out and what you did. Keen to see outcomes. Please feel free to let me know if there is anything i missed as i would like to make this the most accurate and up to date tut there is. Thanks and good luck!
  3. Hello all and welcome back to another tutorial. I hope you have been well, if you are reading this, we have a video detailing the process just below, and below that we have a write up for those who prefer some good reading material. Today we will be installing the Option B Blue Seats into the S15 Note: Most seats out of all S Chassy's are compatible with one another. If you have an old 180, 240, s13, s14, s15, then all the seats are interchangeable as the rails remain the same. So you can swap new seats into your old car, or if you have a nice set of aftermarket seats, and you're buying a new silvia to sell your old one, then you can slap them right into the new one. Now let's proceed with the installation. If you have aftermarket seats, then you will need to make sure you purchase S-Chassy rails, the bride rails sit well in the s15 and are a nice option. Step 1: You will need to remove the old seats from the car, this is quite straight forward. You will need a socket set, from memory i believe the size of the bolt was 12mm but i cannot remember exactly, as long as your set ranges from 8mm to 18mm you should be fine Step 2: Locate the 4 bolts on each seat. You will find that there are 2 on the floor under the front of the seat, and when you move the seat forward, there are 2 at the back you will need to remove, one will be on the floor and the other against the transmission tunnel. Step 3: I recommend unscrewing the front bolts until they are barely still in the hole, and can be removed with fingers, then sliding the seat forward to remove the rear ones and then you can reach underneath and undo the front ones. but, this is just how i did it, you find a way that suits you Step 4: Tilt the seat backwards, you may see 1 or 2 connectors under there. Most people will only have 1 connector which is used to check if your seatbelt is plugged in, you will need to unplug this to remove the seat. Now you might be special, and have 2 connectors, this is not very likely, but if you are, shoot me a PM if you're removing your seats and you have that yellow connector you have an extra step that needs to be taken Step 5: Gently remove the seat from the car, without breaking anything or scratching anything. Step 6: You might notice that your new/old whatever seats do not have the seat belt buckles on them, before you put them into the car, it would be a good time to remove the buckle off your old seat, and attach it to your new one. should be the same size bolt which is used to anchor the chair to the ground. Step 7: Gently install the replacement seat into the car and pretty much repeat steps 4 to 1 in reverse order. (Again, for those of you with the yellow plug, PM me for step 4.5) Step 8: Make sure all the bolts are nice and tight because this is what saved you from flying through the windshield at a sudden stop or crash Step 9: You're done! If you enjoyed this tutorial, you should consider checking out my other ones. I have quite a few videos focusing on aesthetics for the s15 and i plan to release a few more in the near future. Please also feel free to check out my channel for video guides and vlogs. Thanks for your time. Peace!
  4. Can anyone tell me if the jdm indicator /light switch stalk will fit the adm model? I want to fit fog lights on my adm s15 using an aftermarket driving light loom and relay (I know that adm doesn't have fog light loom) and I want to use the jdm indicator stalk with the fog light switch so that I don't have to mount another switch somewhere and make a cleaner install.
  5. Hi guys. This is probably a very commonly covered topic, but today, i wanted to make a video to document the matter, and help those who may not know how to do this. This tutorial will show you how to swap your Coil Packs in your s15 if you find that they are failing, or causing misfire. *Background story - My car was idling fine and such, accel was fine in first 2 gears, but when in 3rd gear upwards, it would stutter and splutter, causing issues with acceleration under boost. I had a tip from some guys on the facebook group, and was told to check my ignition system. I had plans to change coils and plugs, but as i had a spare set of coils, though i would do them first. Changed coils, and did not have to touch my plugs, the issue is now gone. Please follow below for any assistance or instructions. Please see my video for full instructional and visual. For those who might not like watching videos, or tight on data, i will write the instructions below. Please follow closely. If you have a similar issue or need to change your packs, you will need to make sure you have your car turned off. Pop the bonnet, and you may see a silver plate, or a plate of sorts on top of your engine. If you don't have this, you can skip to the next step, if you have one, you will need to remove it with an alan key. Once the silver plate is removed, you will need a 10ml socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the packs in. When unplugging, please be extremely careful, as you can break the clips quite easily if you are too rough, as they are now very brittle after about 20 years of heat cycles. When the plugs are removed from the packs, you can gently pull them up, you may need some force as they have grommets holding them in. When the coils out, at this point, you can just replace it, or you can take it a step further, and change your spark plugs too. I recommend the ngk iridium plugs, they are supposed to last a long time, and are gapped perfectly if you are running a similar setup to me at 15 PSI. If you decided to swap your plugs, make sure not to over tighten them when screwing them in. Once they are in, you can follow the process to swap the coils, but backwards, when installing the new coils. After you have done all this, turn on the car and see if the issue persists, take it for a cruise, and if all is well, congratulations, you have saved a trip to the mechanic! Please feel free to leave me any feedback as it helps me make future content or tutorials! All the best, see you next time!
  6. 1989 180sx owner

    Owner of Sr20 180sx, not sure to what to say...
  7. Hello world! Looking to make a quick tutorial on how to change out your tail lights in the s15 for a set of aftermarket lights. I have attached a video on the process you can view, and I have written the process underneath! Please let me know if you have any questions or feedback. Steps to swapping your tail lights. You will need to first start off by finding a nice set of aftermarket tail lights you would like to install into the car. I have chosen a set of Yashio Full LED tail lights (Apart from the reverse light) There are other nice sets out there too such as the dmax type and sex spec types. I prefer the Yashio ones. Tools you will need: - Phillips head screwdriver - Flat head Screw driver - Socket set (a spanner would work too if you don't have any sockets) - Mine was an 8mm socket, but I believe my nuts are incorrect so yours might be 10mm - You may also need some side cutters for cable ties if you have any Once you have said set of tail lights and tools ready, we will start off by removing the old tail lights. If you open your boot, you will find the where the boot closes, there is a grey strip which runs from the left to the right of the rear of the boot, pictured below. You will need to gently unscrew the Phillips head screws (circled in green), and you will find they cannot be unscrewed any more, just pop them out. You will then have some clips you need to remove, I have circled the points which need to be removed in red, just pop a flat head screwdriver in the tabs and pop them out. There are 2 of these on each side. The grey peace should now lift up and out of the way! Once you have the grey piece out, you will need to remove the 4 nuts holding the old lights in. there are 2 located next to the grommet, and then 2 moving out towards the middle, one is closer than the other. I have attached another image below of roughly where the nuts are located if you are looking down on it, you will see when you are working. you will also need to unplug the white connector going to your lights, I suggest you get a small Flathead and use it to push down on the release latch on the connector if yours are old like mine they can become a pain release. The light should now slide out of its place, make sure you are holding it from the front so you do not drop it Once the light is out, simply reverse the process. If you are installing the Yashio Tail lights like me, you will have a small black box you need to stick to the inside of your boot, and there will be a little plug you need to plug into that too, coming off the lights, simply unplug it to get the cable through the boot and back through the grommet, and then plug it back in once the cables back in the boot (I am not 100% sure what this box is for, initially, I thought it was just to decrease the current and voltage so that it does not fry the lights, but cannot confirm if this is it's only use. It is quite large and would expect such a device to be much smaller. If you know what this is for I would be curious to know Please let me know) Hopefully, you followed through with the tutorial and the new lights look great! Keen to see the results so post up some photos if you followed my tutorial, or even if you just came across it and you have your own lights If you have anything you think I missed and you would like to add, please let me know, I can add it at any time
  8. SR20DET Engine

    SR20DET engine with Gtx 3076R high mount turbo and turbo smart 38mm external wastegate Nismo super copper mix clutch, splitfire coils. This engine was stolen from me and recovered by the police and returned to me four years later so I really don’t have much need for it now. I do know the guy who ended up with it upgraded certain things on it and it was running prior to being removed and sounded healthy. I have paperwork to prove it has a clear title. When it was stolen it had Toda 256 deg cams and adjustable cam gears not sure if they are still in there I haven’t opened up the engine. NOT WILLING TO SEPARATE!!! Only genuine buyers , make an offer worst I can say is no
  9. Hello everyone! I’ll get straight to it. I have an S14 with an S15 front already on it, but I’m not very happy with the bumper and fenders on it at the moment. They’re already fitted but the fenders have chips broken off and the bumper is cracked. I also feel the bumper has a “soft” appearance. The car is also about 6 different colors right now so I figured if I’m gonna paint it, I might as well fit other parts I like more. With that said, will original fenders and bumpers fit? I was told that I need “conversion” fenders for it to work but I’ve also read that OEM parts fit best. I found some S15 fenders yesterday but I wasn’t sure if to buy them. I put them against the car and it seemed like they would fit fine except for the lining up on the pillars next to the windshield. The 14’s fender arches up towards the pillar, but the 15’s lines up with the hood. Does anyone have experience with this? Maybe OEM is best? Maybe it doesn’t matter. The fiber glass parts don’t line up perfectly as it is anyway. I hope I didn’t get long-winded but I want to give a good description of the situation. I will give a pic of what he car looks like. The skirts are not yet installed but I was also seeing if they fit
  10. Looking for s15 stock seat rails preferably Melbourne but can pay for postage if outside of state
  11. hey all, I bought a s15 about 2 months ago and it has a turbo timer installed into it without any display or any pen thing or whatever, its like hard wired into the car, there is no way of changing the timer on it, it doesn't cut off it if you put it in gear or take the hand brake off and I was just wondering how i could remove it. thanks
  12. Hey there, I 3D print S13/S14/S15 products in high quality abs such as shift boot clip/brackets/retainers/knobs, gauge holders that retain air conditioning, pod filter adaptors, double cup holders that fit in the centre console etc. and much more to come. Making this post to provide you guys with top quality parts that solves the issues that come with OEM parts such as the shift boot clip snapping and cup holders not being useful whatsoever. Free standard shipping Australia wide. If you are interested feel free to check out the page https://3dracingsolutions.com/ If there are any questions or other parts needed feel free to send us a message or email.
  13. Want to buy

    Hey peeps. Im new to this group and am wondering if anyone is selling a 200sx s15/ s14, willing to buy today or as soon as possible. Thanks. My number is 0450113610
  14. Just wondering what the idle vacuum is supposed to be on a SR20DET. My car seems to float between -58 and -62 x 100kpa according to both my profec B and Defi gauge. No idea why some days it's -58 and others is more around -60 sometimes finding its way to -62 Cheers
  15. Hi, I've been looking into silvias for a while now and have done much research. However, one topic I cannot find any answers on are the SR20's transmission codes. So my question is, what are the transmission code for the SR20DET 5 & 6 speed boxes? (Like supras have W58, V160, V161etc) And also, while we are at the topic, are the transmissions different from eachother on for instance an early SR20DET and a SR20DE? And another question, what amount of power can they handle unmodified? Thanks.
  16. Hi guys. Looking to buy some s15 seats which come with the srs airbags. I hear these are extremely rare and i am having a hard time finding them. Before you ask, yes they do exist, i have a passenger seat with the airbag so i would orefer if i could just buy the driver side with the airbag, but may be willing to buy them in a set. Please show me what you've got. Preferrably in nsw but if further we might be able to work something out. Photo attatched to show the tag on the seat Thanks
  17. Hi guys. Looking to buy some s15 seats which come with the srs airbags. I hear these are extremely rare and i am having a hard time finding them. Before you ask, yes they do exist, i have a passenger seat with the airbag so i would orefer if i could just buy the driver side with the airbag, but may be willing to buy them in a set. Please show me what you've got. Preferrably in nsw but if further we might be able to work something out. Photo attatched to show the tag on the seat Thanks
  18. S15 Shift boot retainer

    Hey guys, i'm making and selling brand new shift boot retainers for S15 They're made from high quality ABS plastic and are gloss black. They match the same dimensions as the stock one. Free shipping to anywhere in Australia, extra $5 for express post Item: Shift boot retainer to suit S15 Description: Brand new, gloss black, ABS plastic Price: $25 Location: Sydney, Australia Willing to post?: Free postage to anywhere in Australia, extra $5 for express post Contact: Texedova@hotmail.com Note: I'm just selling the retainer only, the shift knob isn't included
  19. My S15 Autech

    Hi all, I thought it be fitting that my first post is a showcase on my S15 Autech. After deciding on what car I was after the next step was to look for it, unfortunately there was no s15's that met my criteria in Western Australia. So I looked else where, booked a ticket to Sydney and off I went. I inspected the car, bought it and then got it transported to Perth. Did a bit of touristy stuff in Sydney and the following day I was on my way back to Perth. Now it was time to wait for my car to arrive. A couple of weeks later the day had arrived, it was time to pick up the s15. Got my mate to take me to the logistics warehouse and on the drive back, she could see me smiling the entire drive back to my house. After a couple of months daily driving the car, the time had come to start getting the car ready to pass the pits so I could register it in Wa. For those unaware, because I've owned the car for less than a year, it need to pass inspection so it could be registered in Wa, that's the rules here. After my first go getting the car though pits, a few things needed to be changed. First off, the car needed to be raised to legal height, the wheels were to wide and was rubbing against the coilovers, inner-tie rod bushings needed replacing, rear aftermarket tail-lights needed proof that they compile with ADR, this was passed with a simple letter from the manufacture stating that it complies with the ADR and finally I need permits for my coilovers and stainless steal exhaust headers, which are factory however the inspector thought it would be wise to get it written down anyway. Second time past the pits and it passed. Great success! Next began the process of making the car how I want it. New radio, wheels, lights, Cube short shifter. It's my daily so I've kept it clean and enjoyable to drive. Not going for crazy power gains, can't really do much with the Autech engine anyway. Got a custom shift knob made from Billetworkz in America, can definitely recommend them if you're looking to improve your interior. That's about it for my s15. Thanks for reading! James,
  20. Ok here's a post that's not about xans or viagra.... On my S15 I installed a boss kit knowing that it didn't support leaving the clock spring in place (which is what every horn wiring kit seems to use) Regardless it's the one I wanted and will make work eventually with a working horn. My questions are, does anyone know how I can or should re-wire the horn switch? I don't care if I have to run a wire from the ecu to the horn button but I don't know where I should be looking to find the horn signal wire? Anyone still on NS? Any positive feedback without drug sales pitches would be rad.
  21. For Sale: Australian Delivered 2002 Nissan 200SX Spec R S15. Price: $22,000 Km's: 127,000 Location: Patterson Lakes, VIC The car has been well maintained and is in great condition, registered until September 2018. I’m the second owner of the vehicle, which was purchased in 2009, and still maintains low KM’s. The car has always been garaged and has been serviced regularly, with complete service history and log books provided. This car was built for a daily drive and has never been tracked. All parts that have been added to this vehicle are new. I have spent over $16k on parts and original parts are included, such as S15 GT Polished rims and tyres, standard ADM intercooler and piping etc. The car has had a full same colour respray and has been dynotuned, reaching 245rwkw. Full modification list - Engine: GReddy T518Z Turbo BC Valve Springs and Retainers Tomei Poncams Camshaft and Cam Gear GKTech Rocker Arm Stoppers Minor Engine Head Work, including new Head Studs and Head Gasket Nismo 740cc Injectors Nistune ECU Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller Z32 Airflow Meter Bosch Fuel Pump HDi GT2 Intercooler Custom Made Front Mount Intercooler Piping and Oil Catch Can Nismo Super Coppermix Single Plate Clutch Ford EF Thermo Fan K&N Air Filter New Battery (Dec 2017) Suspension, brakes and Exhaust: 3” Custom Exhaust with Magnaflow Muffler BC Coilovers RDA Slotted and Dotted Rotors Rear Adjustable Camber and Toe Arms Interior and exterior: Work Emotion XD9 5x114.3 - Front 18x9 +20 Rear 18x10 +38 Kumho Tyres 2x 225/40 2x 235/40 Full Respray with JDM Rear Bumper installed Standard rear spoiler removed and boot holes filled in JDM Brake Light Wiring De-badged Guards Rolled Sony Speakers and Tweeters Standard JDM A pillar boost gauge holder with boost gauge Standard JDM sun visors Personalised Plates Turbotimer Tinted Windows Inspections are welcome to serious buyers. No swaps thanks. Car ad can be found on carsales.com.au Please contact me via mobile or email. 0422 256 666 d.j.hernandez@hotmail.com
  22. Looking for a Individual throttle body setup for a S15 SR20DE, Or an adapter plate to suit 4AGE throttle bodies.
  23. WTB S14/S15 ARC PARTS

    Hi All, Looking for ARC parts for s14/s15 -Strut bar -oil caps -coilpack covers please pm me or send me a msg on ig: dynastyofmalice thanks
  24. I've recently deleted the ABS pump and lines in my S15 with a GKtech kit. Is there any problem with unplugging and removing the wheel speed sensors in the knuckles? I can't think of a reason why it would be a issue but I thought I'd ask anyway. Cheers.
  25. Hey guys! This is my first post here but I really needed some clear answers. Have tried googling but everyone seems to have red-tops for this. Anyway, I was about to dump some money into my car (front mount, cams, ecu, injectors etc) but decided to do a compression test first to make sure everything was good. The car has done 95,000kms (both body and original motor). However my compression results have slightly worried me as they seem to be seriously low. Cylinder 1: 122PSI Cylinder 2: 121PSI Cylinder 3: 119PSI Cylinder 4: 119PSI This was done on a hot motor (driven around for around 30 minutes then tested straight away) with the throttle fully open. They are next to perfectly even across the board but am just concerned with how low they are. The car drives perfectly, does not feel sluggish, no hesitation on boost, doesn't burn oil etc. Just has me a bit concerned now is all. What do you guys think?
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