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Found 3 results

  1. Hi all, First time poster and a complete noob to the Silvia/180 world so apologies for the potentially novice questions. I just got a 180sx rolling shell that I am intending on putting a new SR20DET in and getting registered. This is my first project car and I am using it to learn. (however my daily is a Stagea so I've learnt a bit out of neccesity as things break haha) My question (I did search the forums but couldn't find a solid answer, particularly for someone who has never done an engine swap before). Originally this car had a "Red Top" SR20DET and I am potentially going to drop a "Black Top" SR20DET in it (only because they are seemingly more readily availble at the moment - would happily drop a red top back in if available). Is this going to be a straight swap? I guess I would have to get a new ECU but beyond that are there any differences I need to be aware of? Also I assume this wouldn't be a problem for getting it blue slipped as it is still an SR20? Any help would be great and apologies again if this has been covered. Thanks,
  2. so i had my sr20det converted non turbo for a while now and ive had some problems though they didnt bother me to a great extent but id like to sell the ecu later and id feel more comfortable if i fix them. so the first problem is my car is running rich and i dont know why. ive taken it back to the tuner but apparently its not the tune. my spark plugs turn black within 30-50kms of driving. you can see the smoke when i put my foot down. i get about 330kms a tank and for the power i get its pretty annoying with the price of petty at the moment. the other problem is when driving and coming to a stop ill go to put in neutral and the revs will drop to 4 to 500rpm and it will shake as though its about to stall but it never does. apparently this was because i wasnt running a pod and air was getting rammed in but when i got home i inspected it and there is no way any air is getting rammed in. mods which could affect these problems: de-cat, no pod filter at the moment. the pipe on the right side of head which is usually connected back in to the intake system (people usually make a catch can for this) just cant think of the name at them moment lol and no charcoal canister. also the o2 sensor is not plugged in because apparently it was faulty and they tuned it out but they said this shouldnt affect the fuel economy. any help/advice would be appreciated
  3. Just after some advice and some pointers. Going to inspect a few motors tomorrow and i know my basic things to look at but just wondering if there are any other things i can do to make sure im not gonna buy a lemon... things i know to check: cams for gunk and sludge oil leaks around rocker/ block/head compression test damaged sump inlet manni for water/oil coolant inlet/outlet for cream Cracks in exhaust/turbo manni how do i inspect a turbo? i have a choice of 3... t25, t28 journal bearing, t28 bb with HKS actuator. just unsure on what one to go with depending on condition... how to check shaft play and what is ok shaft play? from what iv'e read and heard the t28 bb would be the better one to go with yeah? How would you transport on a ute to avoid damage in transit? if there is anything else you can suggest to look for that would be helpful please leave your comments belowwwww
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