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Found 6 results

  1. We can do your homework for you at a charge you may find the money for. We've got designed our Do My Homework writing offerings in a manner that offers every person get admission to them, as we consider in giving all college students exactly the same styles of possibilities. All of the fees for our project help are calculated on a character foundation, because of this that you will never pay over the odds for what you are ordering from us.
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  3. Hey there, Could someone let me know what places in Adelaide or the Adelaide Hills do dashboard flocking or suede upholstery etc? Don't know what the actual term is but I think you can understand what I'm saying haha....Want to get my s15's dash done at some point Cheers in advance!
  4. So, I have been enjoying my s15 very much lately, and I’m quite happy with the awesome little sr20det unit but I got to thinking late one night while on Google about people swapping the iconic straight 6 rb26dett into the s chassis cars. Did some research but didn’t turn up any concrete reading material or opinions. If I was to spend 7-10 thousand on the sr20det over x period of time and aim for around 240-50ish rwkw would you think it’s a better idea to just put that sort of money toward an engine swap that is putting out similar power in its stock oem form? As opposed to spending money modifying an engine to reach said power level but hinder its life and reliability/driveability in the process? As the topic says, this is just for general talking/chat/opinions. Try to keep the hate between each other to a minimal What would you say is involved for the diy man to do such a conversion himself if they had access to friends with welding skills, good knowledge on the Nissan engines and mechanics etc. and was to leave tuning and final set up to a reputable shop? What parts, components, custom work, tools would be required? For a street car, how would you go about engineering it, insurance? Thanks everyone, hope we can get a good, knowledge filled thread going here. I’m sure many Nissan enthusiasts would enjoy a read. Cheers
  5. THE FORGE WHEELS STORY FORGE Wheels is a relatively new forged wheel company located in sunny Queensland, Australia. Our main aim is to fill the void in custom aftermarket wheels within the shores of Australia, we offer timeless, classic designs of 1-Piece monoblock & 3-Piece forged alloy wheels using the latest in state of the art design, engineering, testing and manufacturing processes. We strive to deliver the highest quality product in the most realistic timeframe possible, each FORGE wheel is custom made to the customers exact order down to the very finest detail. To achieve this we have utilized the best in the business to design, manufacture, test and develop our products. Instead of starting from scratch and learning the long and hard way by establishing our own manafucturing plant here in Australia we have left the manufacturing of FORGE Wheels to the professionals, that's why all FORGE Wheels are proudly made in our California, U.S.A. based manufacturing facility using the most technologically advanced CNC machinery in the industry today. Each FORGE wheel begins with 100% USA Made, Grade A 6061-T6 aluminum billet cut and placed into a 10,000 Ton forging press to forge the center disks or monoblock forgings. The result of the forging process is 6061 forged aluminum material with a totally refined grain structure, making the wheels both lightweight and extremely durable. These materials and processes are also used in aerospace manufacturing to ensure the highest level of quality and strength are attained. Once the raw center disk forgings are manufactured our 3-Piece rim halves are manufactured to the finest tolerances in the industry through CNC Spinning of 6061 Aluminum to achieve absolute trueness and run-out quality. Finally, each wheel is then hand finished and assembled using the finest in stainless steel or optional titanium hardware and then individually inspected to ensure the highest standard of quality control is maintained. - 100% Made in USA using 100% Made in USA Forgings, Rim Halves and Fasteners - Each and every wheel is designed, engineered and manufactured specifically for that vehicle. The result, a truly custom forged wheel in the exact width, offset, profile, brake clearance and concavity required. - Testing of each new wheel design is completed by STL Labs in Masssilon, Ohio USA - Every FORGE Wheel is built to exceed JWL and VIA wheel testing. - Bespoke, 1-off and special edition wheel design and manufacturing available. - Production time as little as 2 weeks from time of order! CONTACT INFO FORGE Wheels PTY LTD Design Studio & Australian Distribution 29 Township Drive, Burleigh Heads, QLD, AUSTRALIA 4220 (Strictly open by appointment only) General inquiries: info@forge-wheels.com Sales & Wholesale Accounts: sales@forge-wheels.com Phone: 04-AU-FORGED (0428 367 433) Website: www.forge-wheels.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/FORGEwheels Instagram: forge_wheels FORGE Wheels International Manufacturing & Engineering Facility Ontario, CA. USA 91761 (Closed to Public, Viewing for wholesalers and dealers by appointment only) Below are some vehicle photoshoots of various FORGE Wheels fitted. For all general inquiries please email us info@forge-wheels.com
  6. If you wake up dreaming of a steamy reach-around by a man in uniform, then you should consider mounting your gauges on the dashboard. Police love this. For everyone else, it's much better to just hide that sh*t so you can crab-walk over speed bumps in peace. 14psi of vacuum ftw. Difficulty = 7 Where 0 is training your dog to dump on command, and 10 is stopping them from eating it. Time Required = ~5 hours A lot of people fail where delicate work and electronics is involved, so take your time and set aside a day. Disclaimer Never go full-retard. You break it, you pay for it, etc. Tools Required Razor knife Steel ruler Soldering iron Side cutters Wire strippers Screw driver Drill + various drill bits Digital LED gauge. Got mine from Supercheap and blue was the only colour available. I am in fact straight. Various coloured wire Various small bolts and nuts Transparent blue/grey tinted plastic. I used the lid of a disposable food container. Experiment with different filters. Quality tape with a hard edge. I used 3M Scotch Brand 850 Superglue Small zip ties Thin heatshrink tubing Flux-cored solder Usage Checking boost levels without Police attention Blinding you at night Just generally looking like a sik c*nt Process Step 1. Test the boost gauge and make sure it works. My quality product needed replacement. Abuse staff as required. Step 2. Disassemble the boost gauge. If you can't figure it out, take a flat-head screwdriver and start bending things. Step 3. Mark the orientation of the LED display block, then desolder it. Step 4. Solder different coloured wires to the pins of the LED block, covering each with heat-shrink tubing. Step 5. Remove the gauge cluster from your car (unbolt and drop the steering column). Remove the cover and silver trim by pushing the tabs on the back. Step 6. Unscrew the 4 bolts retaining the speedometer, and remove it. No need to remove the needle, just spin it out of the way. Step 7. Remove the plastic dividers in the unused pocket (bottom-left of the cluster), using a razor knife and soldering iron. Wear eye protection. Step 8. Cut some notches in the plastic to slot the LED bar in place. Step 9. Route the wires through the holes in the back, position the LED bar and ziptie the wires in place. Step 10. Position the LED bar slightly below flush with the surrounding lip, and superglue in position. Step 11. Bolt the speedometer in place and mark a hole for the LED bar, using tape. Remove the speedo and carefully cut the hole using a NEW razor blade and ruler. Step 12. Cut some tinted plastic to shape, and superglue to the underside of the speedo gauge, such that the hole is covered. I will redo mine with more tint. Step 13. Install the speedo, silver trim and cluster cover. Step 14. Flip the cluster over. Remove the plastic PCB cover, drill holes and bolt the gauge PCB in place. Cover the bolt heads with cardboard and plastic tape. Step 15. Test fit the cluster in the car, to ensure the PCB mounted to the back clears everything. Step 16. Cut the LED wires to length, and solder in the correct positions using the details recorded in Step 3. Step 17. Connect the 12v line to a switch, then to power. Connect the earth and sensor, then test. My sensor was disconnected in the photos, and it really is f*cking bright.
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