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Found 14 results

  1. SR20DE build

    Think of building my n/a SR, nothing special just after a bit more power without a massive price tag. Looking at camshafts, preferably drop in. (http://www.rhdjapan.com/jun-high-lift-camshaft-nissan-sr20de-t.html) (https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/?q=Camshaft%20Sr20De) Slightly bigger injectors and a remapped ECU just to start. If there's anything I'm missing please feel free to add. Main problem on having is identifying exactly which car my Sr came out of. All help is greatly appreciated. If there is anyone selling a built n/a SR I'm interested, please comment
  2. By now, most people are aware of the ubituous Strawberry Face conversion for the S13/RPS13 chassis, however it's a conversion for which information is either lacking on the Internet, or is conflicting. This guide aims to address the core information you need to know, rather than teaching you how to cut a spot weld or tack the guards together. If you need that level of assistance, it's best that you turn to Youtube tutorials regarding the usage of your tools. I will also point out that whilst opinions are quite strong for or against this conversion, in real life I find most folks like it. If you have an S13 I would suggest you consider using S14a parts/panels for a look that better integrates with the angular chassis, the process is identical as the radiator support is the same between S14 and S15, but if you have a 180sx then the S15 panels are a great choice. Ignore the people who say that it's "too played-out" and that "every second Silvia has that conversion"; the fact that the Internet has a tonne of pics of this does not mean it's everywhere. In the last 5 years I recall having seen only three other Strawberry Silvias in person. From memory I have some old pictures I can add, however they were from the first time I did this and the instructions below contain some improvements. Parts Pitfalls The parts I listed below are what you actually require, with attention to the following points: S15 bonnet hinges sit the bonnet too high, which is why you need S14 hinges. There is however a catch to this. The S14 hinges technically don't fit perfectly, as you will see when you first slot them on and think "wtf is this pmod", however when you torque them down the metal of the bonnet will deform ever so slightly, and then they'll fit great. If you run a carbon/fibreglass bonnet, you will have to experiment with the hinges, as the deformation caused by torquing down the S14 hinges may damage the non-oem bonnet. The S13 bonnet latch is effectively the same as the S15 one, however you will have to use a long bolt and big nut (to act as a gap-bridging spacer) on the center bolt hole. Some people on the Internet recommend that you cut the S13 radiator support to mount the lights etc, however having done this as an experiment prior to removal, I can assure you that it's a terrible idea. You have to cut so much material away that you can bend parts of it by applying moderate pressure with your hand. Trying to mount the headlights is a chore too. Don't waste time even entertaining this idea; do it correctly and change the radiator support. Parts Needed S15 LH guard S15 RH guard S13/180sx LH guard (only require rear section) S13/180sx RH guard (only require rear section) S15 side indicators (pair) S15/N16 Pulsar indicator bulb holders + plugs (pair) S15 Bonnet S14 Bonnet Hinges S13/S14/S15 bonnet latch S15 Front Bumper (including plastic mounting clips) S15 Reo Bar S15 Upper Bumper Support Bracket S14/S15 Radiator Support S15 Headlights (pair) S15 Headlight Brackets (pair) S15/N16 Pulsar [iirc] Headlight Plugs Tools Needed Mig/Tig welder, mask, gloves, apron, spool, gas, etc Spot weld cutting drill bit Electric drill Angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs and flappy wheels Nutcert tool/nuts if you want to use one Soldering iron and solder, or crimper and crimp connectors Sandpaper and blocks Rattle can of etch primer and black paint for the spot welds Small and medium C-clamps/G-clamps, vice grips, whatever Metric Socket driver or spanners Screwdrivers Patience Process Step 01. Completely strip the S13 front body panels and brackets Step 02. Use a spot-weld cutter on a drill to cut the spot welds on the radiator support Step 03. Cut the radiator support at the transition to the part that mounts the castor rod braket, unless you want to dick around with bolt holes and alignment issues. Step 04. Remove the S13 radiator support Step 05. Cut the S15 radiator support to match the cuts on the S13 one, with an ovelap so you can weld it Step 06. Bend the battery tray and opposite side as needed to match the S15 radiator support Step 07. Clamp the S15 radiator support in place; don't weld it yet Step 08. Bolt the front bonnet brackets in place; front S14 bracket holes go on the rear S13 holes iirc. At the end of the installation you can either weld a rear nut in place, or weld the bracket to the chassis, as desired. Do NOT leave this unattached as some people recommend, the brack will lift and fitment will suck, but the retention choice I'll leave to your discretion. My preference was to cut a small hole on the side of the rails to hold a nut in place using a spanner, then fully-weld it from the top. The holesaw cut can be welded up as desired. You cannot tap a hole in the rail, so your options are pain weld, welded nut, or possibly a massive nutcert. Step 09. Install the bonnet latch and align it Step 10. Cut the rear section of the S15 and S13 guards with a 2 inch overlap; there are pictures if you Google it Step 11. Mount the rear section of the S13 guards Step 12. Mount the front section of the S15 guards Step 13. Mount the headlights, reo, bumper support Step 14. Fiddle with stuff and hope you can get it all aligned, re-clamp the support and try to mark/clamp it's final position Step 15. Tack weld the support where possible, to avoid it shifting. Mark your bonnet rear hole position. Step 16. Remove everything Step 17. Fill all spot-weld holes on the S15 radiator support, clean/grind/paint the welds. You will likely find that the radiator support posts will weld higher than the bolt holes for the S13 ones. Either spot weld them at the bolt hole and call it a day, cut and hole and weld a nut in place, or rivet in a nutcert and bolt it in place. Welding is the fastest, however a nut is stronger and potentially less of a headache in the future. Weld/install a rear nut for the bonnet. Step 18. Install all parts and panels again Step 19. Trim and adjust the guards to get the alignment you need Step 20. Tack weld the guards in a few spots, applying pressure to ensure there are no gaps between the panels Step 21. Remove the guards and fully-tack them, alternating between the top and the bottom, having breaks to avoid the panel over heating and distorting/blowing through Step 22. Grind/seal/bog/sand the guards Step 23. Paint whenever Step 24. Wire up the headlights using common sense Step 25. Sell your complete S13/180sx front end Step 26. Winning Having done this myself twice now, I can say that despite how long the process is, one person can get all the mounting/welding done in a single weekend. The wiring is simple but can take a little time, mostly because it can be fiddly and requires a lot of testing with a multimeter. I'm not a painter so I can't even speculate on the painting and prep time, but if you start with clean, straight panels (unlike me), then the workload will be much lower. I will also add that if you opt for a colour that matches your car or is close enough, such as black, then spend some extra on a black bonnet and bumper to reduce the painting to just the guards. A "close enough" paint match can potentially be blended together using coloured wax and a proper wax/buff. If you respray the whole car the S15 panel colour, like gunmetal, then your respray should be a little cheaper for the same reason; chassis, doors, door jambs and guards only, as the bonnet and bar are good.
  3. My 180's headlight control panel keeps failing, I keep cleaning it but it's just frustrating (pictures attached). If someone knows if there is somehow a way to replace it with a relay system or something similar that is more efficient and reliable. Any comments about a way to permenantly fix or replace this system is greatly appreciated. cheers.
  4. i went for a drive out of town on the weekend and i took a GPS with me for the trip, and i found out that my speedo is out. Doing 100kph on the speedo is actually roughly 88-90kph on the GPS, and 100kph on the GPS is shown as 115-118kph on the speedo. whats the best and most accurate way to recalibrate the speedo? all help is appreciated. thanks in advance
  5. I have a 180 and im looking to get it lowered sometime in the future, however its a daily and the roads in my town are complete **** and i dont want to screw the whole underside of my car. what would be better in this case? bags or coilovers? or bags + coilovers in one unit? im also looking for it to be relatively cheap (apprentice wages) Cheers
  6. Gut too big to reach the boot release lever? Hands always full smoking cigarettes at the petrol station? Disappointed you can't operate your car using pelvic thrusts? Then look no further than to Mitsubishi for solutions. Difficulty = 7 Where 0 is stancing your Silvia, and 10 is avoiding trees at slow speed. Time Required = 7 hours at a casual pace Tools Required 2x Mitsubishi Magna glovebox boot release buttons 1x Aftermarket central locking actuator (can be slave or master) 1000x20x3mm flat steel bar 90 degree galvanised steel bracket from Bunnings Falcon fuel release pull-cord (not installed in this guide, but all you do is run it through an eyelet on the chassis, then through the fuel latch) Mig welder Angle grinder Drill Various metric drill bits Mitsubishi Magna electric boot release motor and cable Light gauge wire Miscellaneous bolts and nuts Washers or ring terminals for wiring Heatshrink tubing Usage Not cutting your brand new carpet Opening the boot or fuel flap without opening your door to gain access to the lever Automating your boot release with Alarm systems Winning Process (Boot Release) Step 1. Test your Magna boot release motor using the car battery Step 2. Install the Magna release cable and test fit the bracket Step 3. Bend and cut the braket to cover the point at which the plastic retainer on the release cable should be positioned, to allow proper movement of the latch Step 4. Drill a hole and cut a 'V' channel into it, to allow the plastic retainer on the release cable to be inserted and held in place Step 5. Drill holes in the bracket and chassis, then bolt in place Step 6. Run the release cable over to the driver's tail light, then back past the latch to the passenger shock tower Step 7. Drill holes and bolt the motor to the passenger shock tower Step 8. Use a razor knife to enlarge blank holes on the plastic S15 trim below the gauge cluster, then install the Magna boot relase button. Step 9. Solder Accessories power into the button, then from the button to the motor, then to ground. Test the motor wires to confirm the push/pull direction. Process (Fuel Release) Step 1. Remove the fuel latch Step 2. Mount the latch and central locking actuator on a board of wood, and adjust the positioning to establish full retraction without undue load Step 3. Cut some flat steel bar and mount it either side of the actuator, to ensure even clamping force Step 4. Cut some flat steel bar and bend it 90 degrees, then twist one side 90 degrees to make it perpendicular to the other Step 5. Weld the twisted side of the 90 degree bar to one of the bars bolted to the actuator Step 6. Modify the latch bracket by cutting off the main pull cable mount, and the prongs on the rotating lever. Drill a hole in the trailing end of the rotating lever, install a bolt facing away from the spring, then bolt it in place. Step 7. Run the bolt through the central locking actuator's hole, and hold it in place using double-nuts, to ensure the plunger can rotate easily. The orientation of the actuator is such that the plunger must be located between the chassis and latch spring, with the solenoid facing towards the passenger side. Step 8. Attach the 90 degree bracket to the top of the actuator Step 9. Install the fuel latch, then drill holes in the chassis to bolt the actuator in a position that allows complete movement without undue load. Step 10. Use a razor knife to enlarge blank holes on the plastic S15 trim below the gauge cluster, then install the second Magna boot relase button. Carefully sand off the boot icon to ensure clarify. Step 11. Solder Accessories power into the button, then from the button to the solenoid, then to ground. Test the solenoid wires to confirm the push/pull direction.
  7. Hey guys, I've done another DIY video. Like before comments and constructive help is always appreciated if you have it, I do this in my spare time so it's to benefit viewers. This is a very simple and easy DIY, figured that I was fitting them so no harm in recording and may be of use for people modifying their car for the first time, as we all started somewhere http://youtu.be/2YcyQEDP5QY
  8. Hey guys, new to nissan silvia and just looking for a bit of advice.. ive been on here while but never really made any posts. im thinking about buying a S13(possibly r32) and doing a lot of DIY work just to learn a bit and understand how they work. Im new diy work and have never really done much with cars. im a young apprentice electrician, so im not exactly loaded with cash. but im very interested in engine/mechanical sort of work and its something id love to do as a lifelong hobby. bit of a weird question but here goes: should I look for a cheap, running S13, not exacty in top engine condition, and learn to do a bit of DIY sort of stuff myself? Or should I spend a little more in looking for a good s13 that’s more reliable and then do it up myself,? other thing is, or should I buy an R32 (Rb20), play with that and learn a little bit; and then eventually swap an SR into it? .…- doesn’t seem to be too many around and probably not experienced to that but R32’s are becoming harder to find and I just thought that would be a way to have an older/unique sort of car with an awesome setup. (car will be more a weekender and project…. But cant be an absolute lemon that it wont run and be rendered undrivaeable lol) ps, im new so don’t flame me, just looking for a bit of advice thanks guys!
  9. Rebuilding s15 t28

    Has anyone rebuilt a t28 themselves? I've been looking at the e-bay seal kits and thinking about doing it myself. Just wanting some feedback from those that have.
  10. Found this very interesting drift project and thought that it would inspire we lowely back yard fabricators to new heights! lol This is probably one of the best back yard builds I've seen that didnt come with a "hit and run" sticker. Enjoy! http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/140023-stupid-american-truck-skidder.html
  11. Onevia back yard drift build

    Hy all this is my first drift build and its just a weekender so sorry if i take a bit between posts, but here it is i reasently bought a s13 rolling shell fullly caged from Ivan at TTS performance with a rb26det and heaps of bits. The plan is to have it buit for power cruise at QR in Sept. This is a back yarder but i have access to most panel shop equiptment. The first pic is my photoshop idea of th finished product. Just a pics from when we got it, i have most the front end moked up just got to make some mounts and brakets. the kiit needs a lot of work still and so dus the rad support Plus i plan to tub the Front.
  12. post some pics or even builds of homemade tools. hear is a bead roller i found on zilvia
  13. HI all! Sorry to be a newb to the import scene but it seems I have a major problem with my sil. Heres the specs in case you need em... 1991 Silvia K SR20DET I've recently had the engine rebuilt by my local mechanic, but noticed sluggish acceleration and a bad fuel smell, After a chat with a mate I decided to let the boys at XSpeed performance centre have a look at the problem, long story short, my mechanic is an idiot and hadnt thought to check if the fuel pump had failed. After a bit of a closer look XSpeed reckons the failed pump was the cause of the first engine failure. They want to charge me $600+ to change the fuel pump, to a new still stock pump. After talking to another mate, he has hooked me up with a Walbro gss342 255LPH. Now I'm not sure but I think fitting a larger aftermarket fuel pump for cheaper would be a good idea if I decided to do power mods in the future! Im asking if anyone on these forums has any experience with these fuel pumps in particular and could write me a how to guide on installation and tell me some things to watch for. I really appreciate you useing your time to help me, Thankyou, Justin.
  14. So I figured I would do a quick write up on this as there wasn't much info I could easily find when looking to upgrade the fan on my SR20. If this has been covered - Feel free to delete. The 9-blade RB25 fan from an R33 is a direct fit to an SR20. You retain the standard shroud and everything and it is a GREAT upgrade. You immediately notice the huge improvement in airflow after this is bolted up. The temps in my s15 started to go up as the season started heating up (86deg at max on highway cruising at 3k rpm vs 82 during winter...). Anyways, getting the car ready for some track work etc I figured this would be a good upgrade. The going price for an RB25 fan with the clutch in tact is roughly $80 and is worth every cent... I recommend buying it with the clutch as you can just undo those 4 nuts that hold the old clutch and fan in place, pull the old assembly out and replace with the new fan assembly. Plus the RB25 clutch has 6 coils on the front and the SR only has 3 (no idea why or what the difference is but I'm sure it's there for a reason) Basic steps. Remove the intercooler piping and lines running to the intake/throttle body - you will need the space to remove the fan and install the new one. Loosen the 14mm nut at the front of the alternator holding it in place and then loosen the 12mm pretensioner bolt at the side to relieve tension on the fan belt. - You need to do this as the fan belt is VERY tight. Once you remove the fan the pulley loses structural strength and will actually warp from the stress. If you try to put the new fan on you will notice that it will not go up snug against the hub - this is due to it warping... Spend an extra two minutes doing this and save yourself the hassle later.... Undo the 4 10mm nuts holding the old fan and clutch assembly onto the pulley. Ratchet spanner works the best. DO NOT use a shifter - You will easily round the nuts in under a second.... Have a friend pull the fan shroud toward the front of the car to give you a bit of space and pull the fan and clutch out (Use the extra space made in front of the throttle body to get the clutch out as it needs more space than the fan). Once it's out reverse the procedure with the RB25 fan and clutch (It's a TIGHT fit but it goes in. It's easier than removing the old fan...) Re-do the nuts that hold the fan in place, re-tension the alternator and make sure the fan belt is nice and tight (not too tight) and fix exerything else up nice (DO NOT over tighten the nut that holds the alternator in place from the front. It WILL snap with too much force. It doesn't need to be too tight...). My temps are now 77-78 during normal driving and 82-83 on the highway cruising at 3k in heat (The thermostat only opens at 76-77 degree so it can't get only colder ). VERY useful upgrade - especially in summer . You will feel the difference immediately once you start the car with the new fan I didn't use too much detail above and pics shouldn't really be necessary as it is very straight forward but hopefully this thread will help anyone else looking for information in this upgrade .
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