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Found 6 results

  1. i went for a drive out of town on the weekend and i took a GPS with me for the trip, and i found out that my speedo is out. Doing 100kph on the speedo is actually roughly 88-90kph on the GPS, and 100kph on the GPS is shown as 115-118kph on the speedo. whats the best and most accurate way to recalibrate the speedo? all help is appreciated. thanks in advance
  2. I have a 180 and im looking to get it lowered sometime in the future, however its a daily and the roads in my town are complete **** and i dont want to screw the whole underside of my car. what would be better in this case? bags or coilovers? or bags + coilovers in one unit? im also looking for it to be relatively cheap (apprentice wages) Cheers
  3. My 1990 180sx just failed a roadworthy, the mechanic quoted me for (ahem): castor bush kit, rear shocks, tappet cover gasket set, front crank seal, gearbox extension seal, front gearbox seal, gearbox front seal gasket, rear and front drop link kit, wheel allignment, a hole in the muffler (which i cant find), and a ridiclous mount for labor. (total >2.2k) ok where do i start and what can be done at home on the cheap (but properly) and what need to be done in the shop? the more at home the better.
  4. Keen on a DC2R Interga front lip to take some of the scrap-age blows instead of my front bumper, done some research and I have confirmed that I need a ADM/JDM oem dc2r front lip off a 94-97 Honda Interga (looks like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/94-97-JDM-DC2-Integra-ITR-Type-R-Front-Lip-Kit-Coupe-PU-/300566791858?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fb2d46b2 ) What I can’t find is how people are fitting these to their s15's? From the pics in the link and looking at the mounting surface of the lip I can’t see how I would attach it to the s15 front lip? Anyone done this before that can help me out? Thanks
  5. Turbo busted? Repair bill higher than a new replacement? Chicks starting to dry up when they leave the car and enter your house? Get with it son. Boom. Difficulty = 1 Where 10 is jumping off a building, and 0 is hitting the ground. Time Required = 40 minutes Stripping the turbo takes all of 5 minutes, but cutting the base and degreasing the compressor housing will take longer. Tools Required 8/10/12/13/14mm spanner Vice Grips or a bench vice Sheet of MDF Electric jigsaw Black paint Felt or suede fabric Razor knife Spray adhesive Usage Put the heavy thing on top of light things so they don't do something they shoudn't. This includes, but is not limited to: Paper (believed to work) Cockroaches (absolutely works) Drug money (no doubt it will work) Intruders (like a boss) Process Step 1. Remove the 6 bolts (or whatever) on the back of the compressor housing. Step 2. Remove the compressor housing. Step 3. Remove any bugs that aren't required. Step 4. Remove the 4 bolts on the turbine housing and knock it apart with a mallet. Remove the compressor wheel using an 8mm spanner (twist right = loose). Step 5. Confirm that the turbo is in fact f**ked. Yep, it's f**ked. Step 6. Degrease the alloy and sand the gasket faces smooth, along with any lettering. If not making a base, file the outlet flange smooth. Step 7. Cut some alloy bar to bolt to the compressor wheel. If you don't plan to make a base, then drill holes to bolt it to the compressor housing. Step 8. Trace the shape of the base onto MDF, then cut to size. Drill some holes in the lip of the compressor housing and screw in place using counter-sunk screws. Glue some felt or suede onto the back for a professional and scratch-free finish. Step 9. Bask in the hektikness of your newfound desk ornament. Playing COD online will no longer be a turnoff for your significant other.
  6. When the alternator pulley removal process is raised, many people advise to wrap it in a rag or rubber belt, clamp it with vice grips, tighten the pulley belt, etc. If don't have a rattle gun and you can afford to remove it from the car, then there is a better way. The outer coil and the inner rotor of an alternator are separate pieces, with the shaft the pulley bolts onto being joined with the rotor. All you have to do is disassemble it and stick it in a bigass vice. Difficulty = 4 Where 10 is rebuilding an engine, and 0 is ripping a dry fart. Time Required = 15 minutes + removal + installation If painting the alternator, it will take a little longer. I painted mine a terracotta colour, as you do. Tools Required Two small allen keys or rods Bigass vice Philips #1 screwdriver 1/2" ratcket 12, 14, 24mm socket Process Step 1. Remove the alternator from the car. Refer to the Service Manual if you're unsure of the process. Step 2. Remove the outer four retention bolts, and gently tap the alternator to separate the rotor from the coil. Step 3. Secure the fixed magnet of the rotor in a bigass vice with serrated plates. Use the least amount of force required to secure it, as too much can cause cracks. Step 4. Remove the pulley with a socket driver, install the new one and torque to suit. With this method you have the option of using a torque wrench if desired. Step 5. Select the coil housing and remove the rubber plug at the back. Step 6. Flip the coil cover over and locate the brushes in the bottom. Depress the brushes using a small allen key (or similar), and hold in that position. Insert another allen key through the exposed hole on the back, and adjust the brushes until the allen key on the back slots through them (the brushes have a hole in them for this purpose). Step 7. Put the alternator back together (taking care to align the mount tabs correctly) and bolt everything down. Be sure to gradually tighten all bolts equally as you go, then remove the allen key from the back once finished. Insert the rubber plug as best you can. Step 8. Reinstall the alternator and back in the glory of your lighter, funkier pulley.
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