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Found 9 results

  1. Hello world! Looking to make a quick tutorial on how to change out your tail lights in the s15 for a set of aftermarket lights. I have attached a video on the process you can view, and I have written the process underneath! Please let me know if you have any questions or feedback. Steps to swapping your tail lights. You will need to first start off by finding a nice set of aftermarket tail lights you would like to install into the car. I have chosen a set of Yashio Full LED tail lights (Apart from the reverse light) There are other nice sets out there too such as the dmax type and sex spec types. I prefer the Yashio ones. Tools you will need: - Phillips head screwdriver - Flat head Screw driver - Socket set (a spanner would work too if you don't have any sockets) - Mine was an 8mm socket, but I believe my nuts are incorrect so yours might be 10mm - You may also need some side cutters for cable ties if you have any Once you have said set of tail lights and tools ready, we will start off by removing the old tail lights. If you open your boot, you will find the where the boot closes, there is a grey strip which runs from the left to the right of the rear of the boot, pictured below. You will need to gently unscrew the Phillips head screws (circled in green), and you will find they cannot be unscrewed any more, just pop them out. You will then have some clips you need to remove, I have circled the points which need to be removed in red, just pop a flat head screwdriver in the tabs and pop them out. There are 2 of these on each side. The grey peace should now lift up and out of the way! Once you have the grey piece out, you will need to remove the 4 nuts holding the old lights in. there are 2 located next to the grommet, and then 2 moving out towards the middle, one is closer than the other. I have attached another image below of roughly where the nuts are located if you are looking down on it, you will see when you are working. you will also need to unplug the white connector going to your lights, I suggest you get a small Flathead and use it to push down on the release latch on the connector if yours are old like mine they can become a pain release. The light should now slide out of its place, make sure you are holding it from the front so you do not drop it Once the light is out, simply reverse the process. If you are installing the Yashio Tail lights like me, you will have a small black box you need to stick to the inside of your boot, and there will be a little plug you need to plug into that too, coming off the lights, simply unplug it to get the cable through the boot and back through the grommet, and then plug it back in once the cables back in the boot (I am not 100% sure what this box is for, initially, I thought it was just to decrease the current and voltage so that it does not fry the lights, but cannot confirm if this is it's only use. It is quite large and would expect such a device to be much smaller. If you know what this is for I would be curious to know Please let me know) Hopefully, you followed through with the tutorial and the new lights look great! Keen to see the results so post up some photos if you followed my tutorial, or even if you just came across it and you have your own lights If you have anything you think I missed and you would like to add, please let me know, I can add it at any time
  2. No longer have my S13 and I need space in my shed so these parts have to go! Happy to negotiate, the more you take the better! SuperPro Poly Rack Bushes SPF2825K - $20 Brand new, unopened S13 Lowered King Springs - $80 Fronts on struts with tops, shocks good, rears springs only -- S13 Stock Suspension arms - $free Front Castor rods with Nolathane Bushes, Rear camber arms, rear toe arms, castor rod brackets (Forgot to take a pic of these, can txt one through on request) TuneAgent S14 Hard Tie Rods with Rod ends and Boots - $50 New, includes washers for a S13 track upgrade TuneAgent Adjustable Traction Rods S13/S14/S15 - $40 New, Useful for eliminating bump-steer from lowered vehicles, High quality bearing Heim link/Rod End/Spherical Bearing Dust boots RERS4 x4 - $10 New, Best quality, fantastic protection for spherical bearings on daily driven vehicles with adjustable linkages. GKTECH SR20 Rocker Arm Stoppers - $25 All new unused S13 SR20DET Original Side Mount Intercooler - $Free S13 SR20DET Engine Fan - $Free XForce Stainless 3" inlet diff- back Cannon "muffler", with Silencer - $40 4-Stud Rear Hubs - $Free R32 Brake Rotors Front and Rear, with used pads - $Free Been sitting for a while, surface rusty, front rotors slotted, plenty of meat, got these with a conversion set and used new instead. (Photo on request) Pioneer GM6500F 4 Channel Amp + Alpine digital media player - $80 Brand new Never Used Amp, used headunit shortly before selling car All items available for pickup from Salisbury Heights. At this stage I'm willing to post things at buyer's expense, freight for heavy/bulky items to be organised by buyer. text or PM, will not answer private numbers. Axel 0423&557&923 Edit: added bumper funnel and postage info. Removed sold parts.
  3. Hello, I own an S15 Spec R (Aus Spec) I would like to change the tail lights to Mars Clear Red LED tail lights but it says on the description of the light that I need to modify them before installing. What would i need to do to make them fit or to change the wiring for them to work? Would Appreciate some help Thanks
  4. Looking for the fog light grill inserts for the s15 aero front bar.. asap! ALSO... looking for passenger side window motor.
  5. Hi all, Just have a few things for sale. gktech hicas lock bar. Suits - Nissan 180sx - Nissan S13 Silvia - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR $50 SOLD R33 skyline front upright and hubs. L+R $20 Single s13/180 Tie rod and end. Tie rod is unknown brand but beefy compared to standard one. Both ball joints in great condition. The other standard one is shagged but you can have it if you want. $20 180sx early model rear lights. $50ono s13/180sx driver side door card with electric window module and handle. $50 s13/180sx Driftworks adjustable tension brace new. $80 s13/180sx full brake setup - 4 calipers, hubs and discs. Discs are bit rusted from sitting oustide but still good. Recently resurfaced. $50 Set of 16" Enkei racing s rims. 16*7 +32 16*8 +38 4x114.3 They've got Bridgestone potenza re001's on them plenty of tread 205/55/16. $400 All parts are located in S.E. Melbourne. Sorry don't have time to post. Any inquiries please post here or pm me thanks =)
  6. Stagea series 1 & 2 lights all in good to very good condition.Pickups from Mt.Gravatt Brisbane or can dropoff/meetup locally or post them Askng $500 for the lot or will separately.
  7. Just thought I'd post this for anyone looking at replacing any blown bulbs or upgrading to brighter or different coloured LED's. They have everything and it helped me out a lot. Not sure if different years have different lights so I just entered 1991. http://www.superbrig...40sx--/43-39--/
  8. It's a fact that JDM foglights kick ass. You get a little extra light, but the real payoff is the extra JDM. But what do you do if your front bar has been shaved to fit a FMIC at some stage? Miss out on all that JDM? Hardly. Most people fall for the following traps: Buy a replacement bar. $250 buys a lifetime of zipties, so don't fall for this train of thought. Install Chinese foglights and use yellow paint to make them JDM. Wrong. Chinese lights are only JDM when Greddy package them. Are you Greddy? Didn't think so. In contrast, the seasoned JDM connoisseur shuts their wallet tight as a nun's nasty, and makes it fit. Difficulty = 4 Where 0 is finding a replacement front bar, and 10 is parting with the cash. Time Required = 2 hours in the cold and dark Tools Required Bigass vice Hammer Various screwdrivers Stick welder or mig with suitable gear Power drill Wirewool brush Various drill bits Marker pen 2 small socket-head bolts + washers + nuts 20mmx3mmx1m of galvanised steel bar Angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc Matt black engine paint (self-priming) Usage Brag about defects for daytime foglight usage. And frankly, that's sick as Build rapport with Commodore drivers Pray for fog and then forget to turn the lights on Makes JDMST peeps hot Process Step 1. Mark 3cm from the end of the metal rod. Step 2. Bend the bar at the 3cm mark, hammering and bending it to achieve a 180 degree loop. Step 3. Cut the long end off and cut a 2mm channel on one side using an angle grinder. The channel should be on the front of the light. Step 4. Fit the loop to the appropriate end of the light, then test-fit the light in the bumper bar. Make sure the loop is a snug fit. Removing the bumper makes this easy. Step 5. Mark where the loop hits the bumper bar, cut 3cm of leftover metal rod and weld it perpendicular to the loop. Step 6. Mark a nice point to bolt the welded piece to the bumper bar, and drill a 5mm hole, or whatever. You want it close to the end of the plastic, so it's out of sight. Step 7. Cut a 2mm channel on one side of the bolts. This will allow you to hold them in place using a screw driver whilst tightening the nut. Step 8. Repeat steps 1-7 for the other light. Step 9. Paint the brackets matt black to seal them and reduce their visibility. Step 10. Mount the lights and drill holes in the plastic to achieve the desired alignment position. Step 11. Remove the lights and brackets. Step 12. Loosely fit the brackets using the bolts/washers/nuts, then install the lights; slot into the bracket, then bolt in place. Step 13. Insert a screwdriver in the slot on the bolt, then tighten the nut to suit. Step 14. Attach bar if you removed it, attach light trim if you have it, and plug them in! So what if the FMIC is still there? In case it wasn't obvious enough already, if you chopped your bar to clear an FMIC, and the FMIC is still there... probably not gonna happen with the stock bolt positions. I use a midmount cooler, so I haven't personally tried the method below, however there is absoloutely no reason why it wouldn't work. What you will have to do in this situation is: Chop the plastic higher up, or cut a 20mm slot so as to mount the metal bracket further towards the front. Same bracket design will be fine. Measure the dimensionS for a spacer for the lower bolt holes. Given the bolt holes are set at an angle, you can't use washers or nuts to extend the mount points. Cut two bars that span both bolt holes Cut two short lengths of bar (let's assume 60mm long) Set the long bars at the correct angle, then weld them to the short bars, forming an open rhombus. Drill holes in the lower part, bolt it to the bumper bar, then tack weld the bolt heads in place Drill holes in the upper part, the light to it, then tack weld the nuts in place Remove the bracket and fully weld the tacked bolts and nuts, creating studs at the bottom, and a threaded hole at the top Weld a piece of sheet steel over the exposed side for a tidy look Paint using matt black paint, or whatever colour you prefer Bolt the light in place using the brackets, plug in and align the beam pattern Here's a sophisticated diagram I didn't make in CAD: Foglight plugs and sockets For those installing on an actual S15, you probably already have sockets and loom in your car. F**king score. For everyone else, here are some pics of the S15 chassis plugs, and the globe sockets. Take the lights to a self-serve wrecking yard and find something suitable (check Pulsars and twin-light Celicas).
  9. Hi guys On my 91 S13 I having a strange problem with my brake lights all is well when the headlights are off but when. But when I have the headlights on the tail lights will work no problem while the brake is not being used as soon as I press on the brake the passenger side tail lights and brake light go off. So far I have checked to see if one of the two bulbs were causing the problem but even when I have one in only I get the same result and I have had a glance over the fuses and all look not blown but I might not have looked at all the right ones. I am wondering if anyone has suffered the same problem and what they did to fix it Any help would be appreciated Thanks
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