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Found 12 results

  1. so last night my mate had driven his 180 all day, got home then went to go out later that night and she just wouldn't start, would crank fine just wouldn't turn over. we tried jump starting just incase the battery didn't have enough juice, could hear the fuel pump priming fine, tried hitting the starter motor. then after tried to roll start it, after we roll started it it would start up but then just die slowly writhin 5 seconds, he's replaced the CAS and still no luck. initial thought would be that it could be spark alothough reading a bit says spark shouldn't stop it starting unless it's a bit problem so any ideas??
  2. i recently purchased a polished sr20 rocker cover. When it arrived I noticed that there is no baffles in the rocker cover any more on the polished cover i have purchased. So my question is, are the baffles needed and if I should not install because of this? Can someone explain i would really appreciate it lol Thanks for your help it'll be appreciated
  3. The problem started when I replaced my broken cluster with digital speedo with a working one. First I noticed the radio stopped working, checked the fuse and it was blown so I replaced that and it'll be fine but the radio still would not come on. Every now and then the fuse will blow again. The interior light also stopped working Door open signal light is always on When I turn the front interior light to the "on" position, the clock stops working and would come back on when I switch the light off (however the light does not come on) When interior light gets switch "on" the "door open" light comes on brighter but interior light doesn't work The battery gets drained overnight if I leave the terminal plugged in Not quite sure where to start. Anyone seen or had same/similar problem? Any suggestions on what I should look at?
  4. hey guys i am having some problems with my 200sx s15, it is nearly all stock apart from exhaust, FMIC, and alloy radiator. it is coming onto boost extremely late around 4300-4500. you can hear it winding up before hand but honestly don't feel any type of boost till about the 4500 mark as i said. i have a few mates with s15's and s14's and when their cars were stockas they believe it was definitely coming onto boost with no lag what so ever and after taking my car for a drive they reckon something is definitely up. when installing the new radiator last night we tightened all the FMIC piping as well as blocking off 2 small broken nipple holes in the fmic piping as my car would get little shudders and nearly stall when dropping revs which we put down to boost/air leek, this did completely stop the shuddering problem but has done nothing to they laggy feeling of boost coming on. We also tried changing VCT solenoid because their wasn't a great deal of difference in the feel of the car after we disconnected the wires to the vct solenoid but after replacing the selonoid and hooking it all back up it was still the same. my VCT cam gear is a bit noisy and will be replacing quiet soon but have been told this shouldn't effect the performance of the car i was wondering before i go out and take my car to a mechanic and get them to find the problem via bloody hit and miss and lots of my cash, if anyone has any suggestions i should try out or if people have had similar problems?? thanks for any input people can give me as i don't have the cash for a mechanic to replace 10 things to finally work it what the problem was
  5. Hi everyone Im kinda new to the forum and this is my first post... but i really need some help and advice. I have a s13 Silvia with a ca18det and recently had the radiator unblocked (remove and refit). The car was running fine after that until a couple days ago when i noticed the temp rising a bit then dropping when i got more air into the engine, but now it is staying in the very high areas along with my second temp gauge which says its around 100-110C . P.s i do have a slightly dodgy speedo, it climbs to 70 when i'm barely moving and get stuck there and while stationary it sits on 20-40kph. So it could be a dodgy reading on the gauges. If any one has any idea's on what else it could be that is causing this problem, let me know please. Oh and feel free to add me Thanks, Kugan
  6. so my s14s battery was drained earlier so i bought a new one. but it was only rated 300 cca hoping its enough.. after connecting the battery i got no power at all not even my immobilizer. the previous owner had all screws and shit in the terminals to hold the old battery in but my new batterys terminal was big enough to fit.. afaik the car should still receive some power at least right? could my terminal plugs be damaged or could it be something else? how easy is it to change the terminal connectors ? any help would be great!
  7. Hey Been trying to search and haven't found any one else to have this problem. Basically im doing a t25 > T28BB conversion (done 1000s of times before) When i went to mount my old exhaust back up (dump and front in one combo) it was fowling on the gearbox. The pipe needs to be rotated clockwise(looking at the turbo exhaust outlet). The flange seemed to line up, as 2 studs slipped in, but couldn't go any further due the exhaust pipe hitting the gearbox. I also changed my manifold at the same time(second hand). Came off as S13 afaik. Could it be the new manifold changed the position / angle of the turbo? As far as i know all aftermarket manifolds for sr20det are the same? Any one seem to have this problem before?? Regards, Ash
  8. The bootlid on my s14 does not stay up. It always just falls back down. There is a spring but it seems to have gotten weaker over time. What can I do to fix this? Managed to get this photo.. Maybe your spring is fitted differently? ahh no more headaches reaching for groceries please.. free image hosting
  9. Bee*R S13 Issue

    My first post on the forum! Because I'm in need of help! I have an S13 Silvia with an SR20DET engine. I installed a Bee*R 2-Step limiter yesterday, but it doesn't want to work correctly. I soldered all the connections. I'm 90% sure I have the wiring correct. I followed the guide here: http://www.tamparaci...tall-guide.html I know it's not for my exact car, but my ECU has the 16p 14p 16p 18p pin out the same as his. Plus, in the instructions included with the Bee*R, it listed the same pin connections for my Engine. It revs to the set limit (2500) and engages as it should, but the revs only cut and bounce as they should for about half a second. After which they completely drop, almost as if the engine has stalled, then cut back in briefly and raise back to 2500RPM, before completely cutting out again and this repeats endlessly. The light on the Bee*R blinks when it's cutting the RPM's, as it should, but stays on when the revs drop, which I thought was really odd. It's as if the Bee*R cuts the revs well, then 'freezes' causing the revs to drop, then kicks back in briefly before 'freezing' again. I've uploaded a few video's of the issue to help try and get it resolved. The video's Feel free to share the video's to co-workers or whoever might be able to help. In one of the video's there is a brief period that sounds like the Bee*R is working correctly, but it doesn't even last half a second. I do not lift my foot off the throttle at all until the very end of the video's! Pardon my language too in the final video lol it let out a whopper of a backfire and startled me! If it helps, when it backfired, it let out a LOT of black smoke smelling of fuel. So maybe the Bee*R is somewhat flooding the engine? I'm not sure exactly how they work, so hopefully someone can help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3V52ApIhKU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhg_4pCq1v8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a8BfNkL1Fg I've cut the grey wire, telling the Bee*R that I have 4 cylinders. I'm fairly sure the wires are in the correct position, someone can hopefully tell from this photo: I have added coloured circles indicating what colour wire on the Bee*R each is connected to, because it's tough to tell from the photo. The red and black circles should be swapped, my mistake. The wires are correct, I just put the wrong coloured circle. Swapping the green and yellow wires causes the car not to start at all. My engine isn't modified in any way that would effect ignition. Should the Bee*R be spliced onto CAS 1 degree, and CAS 180 degree signal wires? Or should it be RPM signal, and Ignition signal wires? I've found various installation guides, some say CAS signal, some say RPM and ignition signals. Also, should the Bee*R be spliced in, or should the wires be cut and re-routed completely into the Bee*R? I tired both splicing and re-routing, neither made a difference. Here is another angle, to show my foot not being lifted off the throttle. The RPM limit is set to 4500RPM, and the gain at 1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eKXbsyF2rM At times it sounds like it wants to work, but it simply won't! If anyone could provide any sort of help, it'd be greatly appreciated!
  10. Hi guys, I have a problem with my S15...When i accelerate, even slightly it will miss/splutter between 2000rpm-3500rpm. Once the revs pick up it seems to go fine, no problem. It idles fine, and doesn't seem to have any problem when cold, however the problem appears and gets worse as the engine warms up. So after the engine gets hot its pretty much undriveable. So in summary, cold (running less than 10-15min), idle and high revs or almost zero accelerator and it is all ok but when hot, low revs and it will misfire. Its fairly stock, just FMIC, pod, 3inch exhaust and split dump. I just put on a brand new AFM as i thought that was the problem but it didnt help at all. 12 month old fuel pump O2 sensor is only 18 month old. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Michael
  11. Hi Guys, Have a problem, need some help. After 5 yrs enjoying my 180sx (SR20DET) finally decided to modify my stockie and chase more power. (common story...) Started the project with a target figure of a nice even 200rwkw. Did lots of research, thanks google, and came up with what i figured was a bulletproof plan to reach my goal. Just so you know i already had/have: 3inch dump/front gktech pipes gktech intercooler bosch 040 fuel pump decentish suspension setup boost-t running 12psi. This was giving me 130rwkw. I then set about getting all the parts required and installed them: GT2860RS turbo (disco potato) - brand new, with a 15psi actuator Nismo 555cc injectors z32 afm Greddy boost controller (profec b spec 2) - ditched boost t. Nistune Took my car to Chequred Tuning (thank you Trent and Cat - you guys are awesome). My car really has no issues to speak of, no leaks, compression test was 160 (+-2) for all four and the motor is in generally good working order. Trent agreed 200rwkw should not be a problem (along with everyone else i spoke to). My car will NOT crack 193rwkw! Trent tried everything! We even disconnected the exhaust from the cat back and it didnt even gain 1kw!!! i am running a stock airbox, so we cracked it open and the gain was under 2kw. I am hoping someone can help me out with some suggestions. So far my car still looks relativly stock under the bonnet and i would like to keep it that way if possible, but i really want to hit 200rwkw as it was my goal at the start of the project, PLUS it doesnt really make sense that im not...?? Too much blood, sweat, tears, time and $$$ has gone into this, only to come so painfully close... All i can think is that it is the stock recirc valve not holding boost properly (this essentially being the problem, it wont hold boost). Trent assured me that its not my boost controller, so its not that. Was thinking of blocking the hole in the recirc valve to get it to hold better, but before i fork out for another dyno run was hoping soomeone who has done this sucessfully can help me out. Have attached my dyno run for reference. Running 18psi. Thanks. PS highly recommend Chequred Tuning, very professional and excellent to deal with!!!! 20120502163434018.pdf boost.pdf
  12. I'm getting 430km from a full tank with my s15spec s turbo, I spend around $75 "FULL TANK" using BP ultimate 98octane, normally driving around suburban areas, whereas others i know with r33, spec r etc. get 500km+