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Found 10 results

  1. hey guys i have my f1 playseat up for sale its a great seat for racing games great condition and a quality built seat. Its designed for optimizing your're racing on the virtual track. Rare item to be seen in Australia and can attach almost any type of racing steering wheel sets. Extremely comfortable to sit in, its a must! . $1000 0412204451
  2. Daniel Falzon is the current 2012 Australian Superstock Champion. Checkout his 2013 Promotional Video. It is impressive. See his other pages here: Wikipedia Facebook Youtube
  3. I'm interested to know how many people use a left foot braking technique as i understand it is fairly uncommon. I would assume it is the faster way to race as there would be no time lost from moving your right foot off the accelerator onto the brake. I understand if you drive a manual transmission car which i'm sure 90% do. In terms of mid corner braking to help bring the car in closer to the apex or to slow it down in a quick direction change. perhaps just lightly dabbing the throttle while braking to keep revs up? When it comes to karting we don't have a choice because you have a steering column in the way but the brakes on a kart are either hard or really hard so its not the same. But it doesn't feel unnatural does it? The reason why i say it is uncommon because most of us drive manual and cant come to grips with using the left foot as we are used to pressing hard on a clutch with it. Plus some of the greatest race car drivers in the world don't left foot brake so i cant come to terms with this subject to be quite honest. Now my 180sx is manual of course and i have never really taken it on track to actually try. But my little daily driver is auto and i thought i would teach myself what i would think a beneficial technique (i know, why would i try something on a little shit beater car?). At first i nearly smashed my head into the steering wheel because my left foot was so heavy, but after a while i just got used to it. Now my left foot can brake just as good as my right and when i try and hammer my little daily i definitely feel a big difference in terms of speed (even though its slow). Is there anyone else here who uses it and benefits from it? To bring you into terms of how it could be advantageous here is a video from Colin McRae.
  4. For the month of January 2013 ONLY ISC will be offering some big savings on our top of the range ISC N1 coilovers. For more information on this product please visit www.isc-coilovers.com or contact me at ryan@isc-coilovers.com The ISC N1 coilovers original price was $1499, this was dropped a while ago to $1199 and the prices below are going to give you an even larger saving! The thrust kit (available for mcpherson front struts) retails at $100! S13/180sx coilovers $1199 + free thrust kit = saving $100 S14/S14 coilovers $1199 + free thrust kit = saving $100 Mazda FC coilovers $1099 + free thrust kit = saving $200 Subaru WRX 2008 model $1099 + free thrust kit = saving $200 Madza FD coilovers $1099 = saving $100 Mazda RX8 coilovers $999 = saving $200 JZX90/JZX100 coilovers $1099 = saving $100 Nissan stagea $1099 = saving $100 R32gtst coilovers $999 = saving $200 R32GTR coilovers $999 = saving $200 ALL OTHER SETS WILL STILL BE SOLD AT $1199 + $100 FOR THRUST KIT (IF NEEDED)!! SALE ONLY FOR JANUARY 2013!!
  5. Where do I begin.... My name's Dan Pirozzi - Owner/Operator of Australian Racing Technologies. And this, The ART S13 Silvia. A few guys have asked me to post a build thread. So thought this rainy day was a good opportunity. I hope it's an enjoyable read Originally I was going to buy an evo! But I spent months researching, and procrastinating over which car to begin with. The main focus being: 1. Verstaile chassis 2. Ease of maintenenace 3. Aftermarket Support 4. Tuneability, and power scope 5. Affordability Once everything was measured an weighed on those points, the choice was obvious - S-chassis! And in particular the affordable S13. The north/south configuration makes maintenance a breeze, a reasonably stiff chassis as standard - that's easy to exploit, aftermarket support is obviously huge, and second to none. The SR20 is extremely versatile in terms of power output, reliability, affordability. And to date, I've only just spent what I would have originally outlayed on a stock standard Evo at that time! Not to mention the parts costs and associated expenses of owning an evo, and AWD chassis. The aim was to build an affordable track and back race / sprint / time-attack / drift / drag / whatever you want. Sports car with rego. And so it began... This is how the car looked when I picked her up. A little sad, but the paint was nice, and figured this bright colour was going to look good on track These oem S15 rims were the first addition after being defected within 400m of the guys house when I purchased/picked up the car :/ blue slip defected.. May, or may not have been blazing the cheese cutters in front of a marked patrol car at the time :/ wasn't used to the power! C'mon! hehe... After finding that my easiest route with the build direction was to have it engineered, we went to work fabricating a half cage, removing back seats, installing a bucket seat (cheap private sale - too big, still remains ) and necessary interior (including sunroof) to make her light weight, and to get it passable for engineering/defect purposes.. Also had to change plates cos they were cut to fit rear bar - no impesion at all to their clarity, just more dumb rules to contend with... I bought some second hand Enkei 17" rims to improve appearances, and make way for some decent track rubber when the time came. They just had shitty Chinese street tyres on them at first while it was mainly on-street. The night we painted the cage and roof in black, we took it out for her first Wednesday night drag meet at WSID. a 12.4 was the best I managed (can't remember MPH) and haven't returned for a run since. But we will! Now to the real dramas! This is how the engine bay looked when I picked it up - a real mess! It's an S13 Blacktop out of a Type X 180. The good points of the car when I picked it up were: BM57 skyline brake master cylinder / New clutch and slave cylinders / Exedy clutch / Walbro in-tank fuel pump / Plazmaman Intercooler Kit / 3" turbo-back exhaust / GT28 (disco potato) & manifold / 5-stud conversion with S15 brakes F&R. It was supplied with vague dyno sheets claiming 200rwkw. But I know it would have been closer to 160 Bad points: Stock ECU, 2-stage boost tap (YUK) stay away kiddies. And all stock suspension. First stop was a set of HSD HR coilovers, adjustable caster arms, and whiteline adjustable swaybars. The improvement was DRASTIC! to say the least. And particularly highlighted the need for attention in the rear sub-frame. This was remedied with pineapple bushed first (HUGE IMPROVEMENT) then later swapped for alloy lock knuckles. So having a bit of confidence in the supporting hardware, I decided to run it out at Oran Park on a private practice day to stretch it's legs and see what it felt like on-track (god I miss that track!) This was the result after 8-10 laps... (sorry about the pic quality) Torched #2 piston and the bore like a mofo! Big lean-out coming down the straight... Ouch Out she came We pulled down the motor to inspect the damage. It was all basically confined to #2 bore, but what a job it did! We could only just clean it up with honing to suit 87mm pistons. So this block is on it's last machine after it's first rebuild not to worry, we don't plan on popping her again Aside from the time off the road, the time sourcing and receiving goodies was good fun! Wish I had started ART before this build though :/ haha Motor now includes: Standard crank / CP Pistons / Eagle Rods / ACL race bearings / ARP rod bolts, flywheel bolts, head & main studs / Cometic head gasket / Camtech 260 cams / adjustable cam gears / BC single chromoly valve springs & retainers / GKtech rocker arm stoppers. Nothing over the top at all really.. During the build, I sold the turbo/manifold and purchased a Trust TD06/25G turbo kit off eBay that included a Power FC. Good price, more HP. Why not I thought!! Grabbed it... Decided not to use the Power FC and onsold it. Found out it was rooted, and the hand controller was to suit an FD RX7 :| Paid for the Power FC to be fixed cos that guy was in a hurry, and I felt like a massive C for stuffing him around - Guy I bought it from disappeared.... That pic shows the engine bay complete after the rebuild. With the Trust turbo kit, Greddy copy manifold - match ported, decked, and coated by me. custom fuel rail with Bosch 2000cc injectors, Twin 044 fuel pumps, FPR1200, surge tank, and new lines. Also splitfire coils (later replaced for ART LS1 coil kit - was getting ignition breakdown @ 22psi) Greddy copy sump, 60mm Alloy radiator with shroud and twin thermos, Powerbond underdriven harmonic balancer, Nismo thermostsat, Insight Motorsports Electronic boost controller, and Vipec V44 ECU. We also updated the drivetrain to include: ART SR20 to RB25 gearbox adapter plate, standard RB25 gearbox, and one-piece tailshaft. Tuned at Insight Motorsports (Scott does all our tunes) it made 320rwkw @ 22psi (Eflex E85) Unfortunately had our old machine shop gap the rings, and we didn't check them on installation cos I was in a rush to get it back together, so we battled with the breather system for a while. My first track outing in this guise saw me emptying the catch can all day to try and reduce the mess from all the blow-by it was getting... I tried another alternative in between, but settled on the current design. Which is now resolved by a custom baffled breather tank fabbed in-house. With -12 (OTT) weld on fittings and lines coming from the rocker cover to the tank. And a -10 connecting the rear of the rocker cover direct to the crank case breather. Works a Treat!! The first track day was @ EC and pouring rain. The wet weather grip on the (225 F / 235 R) Toyo Proxes R888's I had then was surprising! We were pulling in evos and wrx's all day in the wet. So were happy with the overall feel and attitude of the car. But dying to get it on a dry circuit!! The next track day @ WP was slightly damp, and extremely cold. And the issues with breather saw me spending more time on that, than on-track. So didn't record my times for that day. I think I was doing 1.10's... Had a nice dice with an R35 GTR - but nearly took him out with the second lesson for the day - Standard Nissan brakes ARE NOT ENOUGH!!! I ran out of brakes at the end of the back straight and had to cut across him at the entry of the corner to avoid a collision :/ not ideal! But he was cool about it, and we didn't come together, so all was good at the and of the day. Although, it was the end of the day cos my rotors were cracked, and pads were powder... But one of the biggest issues I faced on the day, was the power delivery. It screamed up-top, but the turbo was way too laggy for Wakefield park. Even with 4.11 diff gears. So turbo had to go! I sold the Trust turbo to a drift customer who currently runs it in his S14 making 350rwkw @ 25psi. But has also decided he wants more response. They're an antiquated design. Especially when you consider the spool speeds and performance of the Borg Warner EFR series turbochargers! The clear choice for me when choosing a turbo for this car. I was tempted to go larger after feeling the power of 300+. But decided to subdue myself and concentrate on what's most important - Useable power. Not ouright power. So opted for the EFR6758 (largest of the small frame T25 flange turbos) Rated at 500HP. Worried that the claim was optimistic given the turbos compact size, internal wastegate design, etc. We were hesitant, but hopeful. Reports were good at that stage. But I was one of, if not the first in the country to run this turbo. And WHAT A TURBO!!! It made 303rwkw @ 22psi and made full boost is by 3500rpm! (Eflex E85) But more important than numbers on a page, is how it feels and performs. It makes 100kw extra @ 100km/h!! That is a MASSIVE difference in driveability. Scott says it's every bit, if not more responsive than a standard SR turbo. But makes 300 all day! I was over the moon!!! Current engine bay - noteable inclusions: ART LS1 coil kit, Earls oil cooler/thermostat/filter relocator, new BPP fuel rail kit and ASNU 1000cc injectors. Heat management is a non-issue now, and the ASNU injectors are excellent! It purs at idle, they're made to suit alcohol based fuels, they flow more than any of the competition in the same size, and are cheaper. Very happy with our new found relationship with them. With the mid-level actuator we currently run on the EFR it still made 290rwkw with the 1000's. We should see 300 again, and more response when we fit the 'heavy' actuator canister I ran another track day @ WP in the wet with the new turbo setup. AMAZING! Was super responsive, and felt faster at every section of the track. Managed a 1.08, and that's the best I've done to-date. That day ended early with a mis-shift coming down the straight. Slotted into 2nd instead of 4th and dropped the clutch - Big over-rev :/ broke 3 rocker arms - day over... Was a fast and cheap fix though, so not too bad overall. Losing a day at the track was the worst bit! In between times, we had fitted our catalogue of alignment arms (must do) and also forged a relationship with STD Suspension and Big Brakes. After doing alot of research and talking, we decided this brand would compliment our business, and aim of performance and affordability. So we fitted a set of STD R3 coilovers 8/6kg combo, and a big front STD 6pot 330mm brake kit. This works perfectly with the skyline master cylinder, and comes as a complete bolt-on kit with: Calipers, pads, two-piece rotors w/alloy hats, braided brake lines, brackets, bolts, etc. We mated these with R33 rear twin-pot calipers, DBA 4000 series T3 slot rotors, and Intima SR pads. This gives nice balance, and LOADS of consistent and effective braking! Really happy with both kits. The STD's are noticeably more compliant than the HSD's, and with only 12 damping settings, any changes you make are felt, and actually make a difference. As an affordable 'entry-level' package. The performance is awesome!! My next track outing was to Powercruise 2012 (not really my thing, but just for fun - why not) ummm - tore 3rd gear out of my RB25 gear box with a hamfisted shift and clutch drop with the new twin plate fitted (will remain un-named for now, still testing) I thought it was the clutch for a moment... To be fair, I got that gearbox cheap, and it always had issues. So was only a matter of time. Have since replaced it with another standard box without issue more setbacks and missed trackdays though.... Then, all sorted - I book in for a supersprint round at Eastern Creek. The last one before they split the tracks - rained all day.... Gah! I feel cursed at this point, and people start calling the S13 (the drought breaker) Haha! Fair call though... People were starting to cringe when I showed up to the track. If ever it rains my biz partner Mark asks if I've bought the S13 out? LOL prick.. Best time was a 1.29 maybe? Can't remember to be honest. Again, not worth recording.. BUT, felt good. Ran strong all day, no issues. Drove it there, drove it home - as we do to all events. I don't own a trailer! The best part about that meeting, apart from the obvious. Was meeting an iRace competitor Alan Walls and his GTI-R pulsar. He recommended I try out some real racing. And after having a look at my car, insisted it was up to scratch, and should be somewhat competitive given the handicap format. More info: irace.net.au Sounded great! So I jumped on the net and started the search, which led to where I am today. And the following videos: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151158242799005 http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151153442189005 A triple victory on debut!!! And our first ever dry track day! iRace Rnd 5 2012 - We won: First in class (jap turbo) First outright in division (muscle class) And I won most promising driver of the event :) We also set the fastest lap in one of the sessions with a 1.11.4 @ Sydney Motorpsorts Park North Circuit. And ran consistent 1.11's / 1.12's most of the day. We're wrapped with the speed! Especially considering we're running an intermediate setup, and have done nothing in the way of setup or testing. We obviously used our knowledge to gauge the best intermediate setup and alignment out of the box. And it seems to have worked pretty well! But there's definitely more time in it. Corner speed, and front end grip being the biggest factors to overcome. We're currently running Hoosier radial slicks 225's Front, and 295's rear (cheap private sale) I don't like this tyre balance, and it tends to push with the wider rear track. I think with better tyre choice the steering and handling will balance more. But budget won't allow a change before the next and last Round on Nov 30th 2012. The only improvements we will make before that round are: Fresh Martini RF700 brake fluid, new (harder) front pads, and a shimmed R200 diff. The one that was in it was getting pretty loose and opening at times. It won't help with pushing, but drive traction is still very important. Some pics from the event - as it stands: Let's hope we continue to get more dry trackdays! And victories Wish me luck If anyone needs any parts, advice, or help. Please shoot me an email, or PM on our FB page: dan@artperformanceparts.com Cheers, Dan
  6. I thought it was about time I started a build/progress thread for my S13. After playing around with my S15 (which is now nfi's, SX developments S15) doing sprints for a couple of years I decided to sell and buy something that I didn't mind too much if it got bent/damaged. I ended up buying "NS.com Thug"'s old s13 that already had most of the work done to it. Current major mods: Built SR20DET Tomei Poncams Procam 260 12mm lift Caltex Eflex e85/e72 fuel United E85 Trust T518z Kinugawa TD06sl2-20g 6Boost T3 manifold Bond's bolt in 6 point cage Self made weld in cage. Undercar surge tank + Bosch 040 57L fuel cell, Carter lift pump, 2L surge tank and 040. Power FC Haltech S15 Platinium pro plugin Blitz SBC ID-III 740cc injectors FiveOmotorsport 1200cc top feed injectors Enkei RPF1 17x9 +22 wheels or 17x9.5 +18 Federal Fz-201 255/40/r17 tyres or Hankook Z214 275/40/r17 Sparco bucket seats OMP HTE XL seat Silkroad RMA08 coilovers 8/6kg Koni 8611/8610 shocks with 550lb/in F 400lb/in R springs z32 gearbox conversion Z33 350z 6 speed Garrett 600hp intercooler R33 GTST brakes with adapter for 324mm front rotors Obviously there are heaps of other mods, but not much else worth listing Day I picked it up in July '08 Went drifting for a while Entered a few comps, did ok, a few top 4 results Got bored with drifting, went and did some sprints as well. Posted some pretty good times and had plenty of fun, decided towards the end of '11 that I wanted to do some actual racing instead. This year I've been doing Queensland Raceways Topgear series, as well as I did "2 Days of Thunder" racing against proper sports sedans and a few v8 supercars Qualified 2nd for my first race at Lakeside behind Callum in the Sil80. Almost claimed my first win in the second race until I was black flagged for leaving my window down. [media] ] QR Top gear round [media] ] 2 Days of Thunder at QR [media] ]
  7. Mallala Motorbike Come'n'Try day!

    Hey Guys, The first round of the SA Championship (Motorbike Racing) is coming up. The event is held over the weekend from 26th to 27th of May. The Saturday is a practice day for all the riders. The club running the event, Cafe Racers, also runs a rider race training school on this Saturday called Kneescrapers Training. At the Kneescrapers training, you start in the class room where they explain all the basics of track racing and setting up your bike. That finishes quite early and you are all let onto the track with the instructors to get a feel for it. For the rest of the day you alternate between the track and the classroom running through the individual corners, bike setup, body position, safety. You get heaps of free track time to just go for it. If you're not interested in doing the kneescraper training, you dont have to. Just sign up for the practice day and you're out on the track. The saturday will most likely consist of 4 seperate groups where only one group is on track at any time. The groups would be: -Professional -Amateur -Novice -Kneescrapers Training If you decide that you loved the training day and want to enter one of the races on Sunday, then it's as easy as putting your name down. On Sunday, the following classes will be racing: -Steve Martin Cup - A and B grade racer championship. Any Bike, Unlimited Mods -Reece Bancell Cup - C and D grade racer championship. Any bike, any mod. -Limited - 2 Strokes, Historics, Small Twins, Juniors etc -C20 - Bikes and mods from the 20th Century (eg. 1999 R6) -Bracket Racing - Amateur Class, Any bikes including road bikes. If you are interested in starting to race, then Bracket Racing is for you. Only Amateur riders are allowed to enter. The races are fun, safe and only 6 laps so you dont need to be super fit. If you are not interested in racing just yet, then still come out for the Sunday (May 27th). It will be a fantastic day. Organised for this event are: -About 30 races -Stunt riders -Nissan GTR vs Yamaha R6 race!!! -Jumping Castle and Facepainting Entry is $10 for spectators. Why should you get out to Mallala? Here is why. Why race through the hills when you can do it legally at Mallala? That is just one of the small benefits. You crash in the hills and you WILL be hitting a guard rail, a stobbie pole, a tree or a car. You're more than likely to be injured, or worse, and your bike is going to be badly damaged from whatever it has hit. The chances of crashing in the hills are so much higher than on the track due to blind corners, unpredictable surface and traffic going in the OPPOSITE direction to you! You crash at the track and 95% of the time, you slide casually off the track and into the soft sand traps. Your bike comes out with scratches down the side, but it's all cosmetics, usually nothing mechanical is damaged. Your chances of crashing on the track are really only limited to how much you want to push it. Bike to bike collisions are rare in races and virtually non-existant in practices. I used to race through the hills with mates, but since I started racing 5 years ago, I've never done that again since. I just don't have a need for it anymore. I get everything out on the racetrack and it is 10x more fun than the hills. Dont believe me? Come try.
  8. The HF100 and HF200 series catalytic converters are made from a full stainless steel construction with integrated heat-shield and a high-flow metallic substrate designed to meet the EURO 3 EPA emission standard. The 100cpsi and 200cpsi metal-cores are the highest flowing available and are both suitable for high power/road/race applications. Kenobi HF100 Metal-Core 100 CPSI - 2.5 Inch $189 Kenobi HF200 Metal-Core 200 CPSI - 2.5 Inch $169 Kenobi HF100 Metal-Core 100 CPSI - 3 Inch $189 Kenobi HF200 Metal-Core 200 CPSI - 3 Inch $169 Kenobi HF100 Metal-Core 200 CPSI - 3.5 Inch $199 Note: 2.5 and 3 Inch ID models have 11 Inch body length. 3.5 Inch ID model has 10 Inch body length. All sizes have 4 Inch core diameter, plus external heat shield. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- D1 Spec Racing Wheel Nuts are made from a very light and strong material - 7075 grade aluminium alloy - weighing in at just 25g per nut, whilst at the same time they are much stronger and harder than heavy factory steel nuts and even many aftermarket alloy nuts. The material and manufacturing process increases the hardness of the surface to the HV330 specification, which is 33.6% harder/stronger and 62% lighter than standard alloy wheel nuts. These nuts are suitable for street and track racing applications. Features - Colour: Black, Red, Blue - Material: 7075 Aluminium Alloy - Thread Size 12 x 1.25mm, 12 x 1.5mm - Socket Size: 19mm - Length: 50mm - Weight: 25g - QTY: 20 piece per set D1 Spec Racing Wheel Nut Set - 12 x 1.25mm Black $69 D1 Spec Racing Wheel Nut Set - 12 x 1.5mm Black $69 D1 Spec Racing Wheel Nut Set - 12 x 1.25mm Blue $69 D1 Spec Racing Wheel Nut Set - 12 x 1.5mm Blue $69 D1 Spec Racing Wheel Nut Set - 12 x 1.25mm Red $69 D1 Spec Racing Wheel Nut Set - 12 x 1.5mm Red $69
  9. WOOPS i'v left this thread to die sorry folks, follow me on FB to follow the latest news: https://www.facebook.com/Calw36 Thanks for checking out the Option1Garage / Signature Performance Outlaws class Sil80 Racecar buildup / history thread. 2012 QRDC Sports and Sedans Outright Champion Thanks so much to everyone that has helped me throughout the year - massive appreciation for the whole weekends given by my awesome pitcrew Pete, Nick and Dad. Support from Paul and the boys at Option 1 Garage / Full Lock Motorsport has been a massive help this year making problems that would have been a big deal previously seem like a piece of cake to resolve, and linking me up with Mca Suspension, gktech.com.au and Koya Wheels throughout the year has helped improve the car to be ultra fast and ultra reliable, just a dream to drive. Also Marty and Mich from STZ for the brilliant lightweight cage Definitely pumped for more intense, clean, close racing with the Outlaws Sports & Sedans Racing Queensland in 2013 Click here for most recent news + Outlaws Sports and Sedans on Facebook ^pic thanks to Fifotos Motorsport Photography New Lakeside Silvia Lap Record - 54.65 - June 2014 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NkOx29323M http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zguMfAqltFA www.driverdb.com/drivers/callum-whatmore Current best laps: Lakeside: 55.66 on Hankook Z214 275 QLD Raceway Clubman: 59.50 on Hoosier R6 275 QLD Raceway National: 1:18.71 on Hankook Z214 275 Morgan Park K: 1:23.9 on Hankook Z214 275 Norwell: 61.80 on FZ201 255 no aero Thought id finally do a writeup on my moneypit of satisfaction - Nov 2006 Looking like this when i first bought it. First proper car after driving the bongo van (liteace) around for 3 years after getting my license. FEEL THE ADRENALIN Son after added racing logic coilovers... car looked good like this :] Went to some dyno day and it put out 160kw apparently (unsure of how accurate the dyno was) at 12psi - June 2007 QR sprint - First trackday experience, going 67.53 in pretty much standard form on street rubber. - Nov 2007 QR sprint - Improved to 66.07 after adding fmic and exhaust, on street rubber. Quickest lap set with exhaust gasket gone, it farted hot exhaust and melted my loom and i was lucky to be able to drive home. improv heat shield. F'ed around for all of 2008. had a crack at drifting, which i sucked at, and did some boring drag. best of 13.9sec quarter added big brakes up front. smacked a gutter being stoopid which led me to get some new wheels. - Jan/Feb 2009 Finally got back to the track in 09, couldnt match my pb in 2 attempts hmm. I guess it was summer, hot. + QR had rivers across the dippers on one of the days. rage. - June 2009 put some KU36 tyres on the car and then found out about lakeside. what a track! i was hooked. best of 65.43 on my first day there, june 09. LS - improved to 63.89 on my next outing. - July 2009 Decided to spend some money on trying to make some power, Got a cheap t28 (thanks Matt B!), s15 injectors and a nistune. Tuned by EFI performance yatala to make 174kw. improved to 63.00 but was hitting the speed limiter by the kink. EFI kindly removed the limiter when i took it back to them - Sep/Oct 2009 LS - Improved to a 62.42 without the limiter LS - Then 62.22 after removing a bit of weight, eg rear seats. QR sprint - 61.57 - Feb 2010 Car was overheating quite badly after 2 or 3 laps getting up it. added oil cooler, air panel, bigger radiator, problem persisted... Frustrating to have to back off and let it cool in the middle of a session. Noticed Harry's sil80 owning it up, being the only sil to get under the magic minute at lakeside so the opportunity came up with michael from here on NS to swap front ends. tore into it one saturday and did the swap. - March 2010 got a pair of springs from dennis at racing logic - legend which softened the car from 9/7 to 7/5 kg. bolt in half cage installed. LS - new PB of 62.14 - May 2010 KU36's finally shagged after 10 trackdays and 14,000 kays. Excellent value for money. Got some federal RSR's to replace them. LS - improved to 61.11 thanks to the softer rubber. - June 2010 car has always had a major achilles heal of the sloppy viscous diff, causing the inside wheel to spin up and cost a lot of time. Diffs were very expensive, so i was lucky to find a bargain on boostcruising for a 1.5way r180 with a 4.3 ratio (vs 4.11 of the original) Also installed a surge tank which solved the long time drama of having to run with at least half a tank of fuel to prevent starvation. have since added alfoil wrapping to the lines to try and reduce the fuel smell stinking me out. QR sprint - 59.67 - July 2010 Got a bit excited after seeing pics of THIS car. A mate had a rear wing lying around under his house, so i grabbed it off him. Then went to bunnings and bought some plywood and other gear. fabbed up the front splitter + air dam and drilled holes in the rear hatch for the wing. LS - 59.91 finally cracked the minute. feels a bit like cheating with the aero bits. huge difference in high speed grip. - Aug 2010 Front tyres getting chewed due to inadequete camber. installed R33 front LCA's which have helped. Also got the chance to test some real tyres thanks to Alan at Federal / Z car workshop. FZ201 medium compound and mega wide. LS - 58.64 first session - Sept 2010 LS - 58.39 jap nationals one lap shootout - Oct 2010 found front shocks to be rooted, replacements from dennis at racing logic fitted. cheers ! Lakeside - 17/10 - 58.61 zed fest. just consistent 58's built a box for the fuel system to try and make it a bit safer in an accident. QR - 30/10 - 57.68 new PB Nov 2010 - Morgan Park - 1:27.39 - class winner improved production over 3L the office Dec 2010 - Lakeside. Trackattack 2010 2nd overall, Winner forced induction class. New PB of 58.34 bit of GTR chasing action http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtWHgLbNDA4 2009/10 trophies time to go racing in 2011 :] 1994 Nissan 180X RPS13 Engine=SR20DET POWER=206rwkw @ 17PSI TURBO= Garret 2680RS with chipped compressor wheel. got it cheap :] AIRFLOW METER=BOSCH Z32 SUMP= justjap Large Capacity OIL= Penrite 10w40 or similar RADIATOR=big alloy one thanks to STZ INJECTORS=740cc FUEL PUMP=walbro's &--#62; bosch 044 BOOST CONTROLLER=mbc ENGINE MANAGEMENT=nistune INTERCOOLER=big one now cheers jarred EXHAUST SYSTEM=3inch with cat DRIVECHAIN lol chain CLUTCH= Direct Clutch hi torque organic GEARBOX= Standard 5 speed manual DIFFERENTIAL=r180 1.5way 4.3 SUSPENSION/HANDLING/STEERING COILOVERS=Racing Logic - ultra - 7/5kg SWAYBARS=Whiteline 27mm Adjustable Front Swaybar, Whiteline 20mm Adjustable Rear Swaybar SUSPENSION ARMS=r33 front lcas, GKTech Caster, Toe, Camber Brakes CALIPERS=r33 all round PADS=Ferodo ds2500 &--#62; Hawk DTC 60 FLUID=Castrol super dot 4 &--#62; penrite sin BM57 master cyl + braided lines Wheels/Tyre street= a-tech 17x8,9 track= koya 17x9,10 245/275 slicks Interior STEERING WHEEL= omp copy suede SEATING=Bride copy fixed back, 6pt harness GAUGES=ecutalk display, oil temp, knock warning no bov, standard airbox, still has aircon and radio comes out :] weighs 1190kg with half a tank of fuel and no driver INSPIRATIONS: Harry being the first ever silvia in the 59's at lakeside back in '09 - we all thought he was nuts after seeing this vid - the whole 'treat lakeside with respect', '9-tenths maximum' mantra that everyone spouted went out the window, heres Harry hanging it out at bridge + the last corner... very intimidating bits of track.. without raising a sweat. Another lesson learned, the importance of learning car control without aero influence. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxNw2Z6u7sI + build thread 240sxTTC's aero bits Sasha is really the mac daddy pioneer of silvia racing... winning the mixed canadian touring car series back in 2007.. bowdown: Massive 53 page build thread Paul's record-holding S14 - untouched record around Lakeside (until myself and Sam finally pipped it 3 years later)