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Found 5 results

  1. S13 Rear Cusco Strut brace - used $100 S13 china front strut brace - brand new $20 Stock Sr20DET T25g turbo, did about 120k km - $80 Used Rays lug nuts in the anodised blue colour, full set of 20 with key 1.25 thread pitch - $100 Located: Mascot NSW Contact: Drew 0402266755 Prefer not to ship but will consider
  2. I have a highly modded RWD SR20DET (red top), but it isn’t performing as I would like. Basically the powerband is too narrow and high in the rev range. I’m fairly new to SR20’s and turbo cars in general. Can anyone help me out? The motor is in a gravel rally car. The ideal attributes of a 2WD gravel rally car are: No lag A fairly progressive (i.e. linear) power curve (to limit uncontrolled wheelspin) No need for more than 185-200rwkw (as you can’t put that power to the ground on gravel in a 2WD car) On boost as early as possible in the rev range Big torque down as low as possible. Targeting 150rwkw by 3500rpm (earlier if possible), max power in by 4500rpm (earlier if possible) Motor shouldn’t need to spin over 7000rpm Reliable (Fairly similar to a good/basic street setup?) The motor already has had a fair bit of coin spent by previous owner, and currently has: E85 setup (1000cc injectors/ fuel rail/ pumps/ surge tank/ etc) 11.4:1 static compression Billet crank, forged rods and CP pistons Custom exhaust manifold, similar to a twin scroll/ scavenging setup, very professional External Tial wastegate plumbed back into dump pipe (feeds primarily from cylinders 2/4 on header manifold but is fairly close to collector) Custom dump pipe and 3’ exhaust, no cat, very minimal muffler BC Stage 3 cams – 272 degree with 12.5mm lift Solid lifters, Tomei rocker stoppers, BC retainers and springs, adjustable cam gears T25G turbo? I'm guessing its a T25G, it has 0.86 turbine housing and a 0.8 compressor housing and looks (to me being a noob) like the stock S13 turbo. Internal wastegate is currently lock wired full open(?) Electronic boost controller Inlet manifold of unknown origin (single plenum and throttle body, with short/straight inlet runners), all vac lines disconnected/plugged (external oil catch can) Unknown Nissan throttle body Runs a Link G4 Stock intercooler/ water spray bar/ 2 ¼ inch inlet piping Pod filter At this stage, I am looking primarily for advice around the following as I think these are the areas where I can most easily achieve my goals: Which stock SR20 turbo would be the best for this application – i.e. T25G or T28XXXX, and what trim/ wheel size combo etc. The rules permit only OEM Nissan stock SR20 turbos to be used - nothing else. Is lock wiring the internal wastegate full open and relying on the external electronic boost controller a smart move? Surely with the wastegate open all the time this is slowing the build of boost? For the target power and revs, could that be accommodated by the turbine alone and the internal wastegate lock wired full shut, or do I need something to control the internal wastegate so it’s switchable? Which inlet manifold to use. I’m thinking S14 or S13 would be better than the large plenum type, given the longer intake runners to bring the mid-range torque up, and of the two I am thinking that the S14 one has longer runners and should be better? Are they bolt up to the S13 head? Would a throttle body setup be of any benefit (i.e. the EFI concepts ones)? What throttle body would best suit (does it need to be a larger one than stock if I am only chasing less than 200rwkw)? Which cams would work best for this desired powerband? With the minimum of compatibility conflicts with the rest of what is in the head already? Is there anything else I should be doing to make it better? I’m interested in the ‘why’ as much as the recommendation. All advice greatly appreciated – as I am fairly noob at SR20! Thank you!
  3. Hi people, seems I only come here to look at peoples stuff cooler than mine and to ask for advice about how to fix my dodgy bastard haha Anyway, my Silvia has been making a weird noise on spool up for a little while now. It makes a large whoosh noise, very different to the turbo whistle it used to have. My theory so far is a bent fin? Can anyone give me some help or advice to look for something. It is still making full boost with no leaks or bleeds on boost. Thanks in advance!
  4. alright so basically have completely standard SR20 s13 looking to up the boost a little few questions first will 12psi be safe on the t25 also planned mods are: upgrade intercooler mech boost gauge cat back exhaust anything else i should consider? with catback exhaust, is front pipe/dump gonna limit the small amount of power ill be making? also whats a good size exhaust to go for? I have a 3inch custom made one at home, just thinking it might be a bit big, its mandrel bent, magnaflow rear oval muffler, mid ressi hotdog and redback cat I also have a 2.5inch system but its not mandrel bent, has mid muffler (twisty old fashioned one) end muffler, and chinese 100cell cat people often say 3inch is too big for most applications, but in my case will the 3inch flow better, I am also after something fairly quiet so obviously 2.5inch wins for that, just worried it might restrict car too much and not allow it to breathe properly if I boost it, thanks for any input
  5. Hey Been trying to search and haven't found any one else to have this problem. Basically im doing a t25 > T28BB conversion (done 1000s of times before) When i went to mount my old exhaust back up (dump and front in one combo) it was fowling on the gearbox. The pipe needs to be rotated clockwise(looking at the turbo exhaust outlet). The flange seemed to line up, as 2 studs slipped in, but couldn't go any further due the exhaust pipe hitting the gearbox. I also changed my manifold at the same time(second hand). Came off as S13 afaik. Could it be the new manifold changed the position / angle of the turbo? As far as i know all aftermarket manifolds for sr20det are the same? Any one seem to have this problem before?? Regards, Ash