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sr20det turbo removal guide . all variations included

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Sr20det Turbo Removal

s13/14/15

All Variations included

 

Ok to Start of required tools are

 

Good quality 3/8 socket set 8mm-19

Good quality spanner set 8mm - 19mm

Good pair of long nose piller's and multi grips

optional tools , car ramps but your std car jack should suffice

5L's of new coolant (tectaloy 60-90)

Big bucket at least 10L's

 

 

 

Ok lets do this

 

 

1)Drive the car in to your work bay/area . lift up the bonnet (engine off) remove your struct brace (if you have one) jack up the car from the passenger side just behind the front wheel on the seal panel, now you have to options you can drain your engine oil and coolant . or just drain the coolant . the oil doesnt come out only a few hunder ml's the coolant on the other hand will go every were.

 

2)Place a bucket under the bottom radiator hose . and remove the clamp and drain all coolant into a bucket. while this is draining . remove your hot pipe . 8-10mm will be needed depending on your clamps . remove the clamp on the turbo outlet and then the one on the other side of the hot pipe also disconnect your vacuum lines from this. now remove your intake pipe . again 8-10mm for the clamp's leave your AFM and pod connected .

undo the clamp on the turbo inlet . also remove PVC hose's going into the intake pipe . BOV return . AFM plug. and lift it out all in one go . your turbo should now be more visable .

 

3)Ok now hop under the car (passenger side) and undo the turbo oil drain line clamp

then undo depending on your exhaust system if you have a 2 peice dump and front then follow step (#) below . if you have a one piece front and dump then follow step (@) below

 

(#)undo the 3 14mm bolts connecting your front and dump pipe. proceed to step 4

 

(@) undo the 2 14mm bolts from the cat and remove the 5 12mm dump pipe bolts and remove the complete front and dump from the car. proceed to step 4

 

4)Now the turbo lines . for s13 follow step (#) below and for s14/15 follow the step with the (@) below

 

# s13 . on the block the top banjo bolt 19mm is the water line . undo this . under that is a 17mm banjo this is your oil line undo this . make sure to not lose the washers . now at the back of the motor inbetween the fire wall and motor there is a metal line connected to a rubber hose with a clamp this is the coolant line . remove the clamp and rubber hose . your turbo should now be free and ready to almost come out

 

@ s14/15 . on the block the top banjo bolt 19mm is the water line . undo this . under that is a 17mm banjo this is your oil line undo this . make sure to not lose the washers . now on the top coolant elbow there is another banjo bolt 19mm this is your other water line remove this . your turbo should now be free and ready to almost come out.

 

5)Depending whether or not you have a Stainless steel manifold (&) or standard manifold (#) follow the corrosponding procedures .

 

(#) Standard manifold (including egr and oil/air seperator) - remove the std head shield this consists of 10mm bolt 3 on the top 1 on the side . now remove the egr bracket 12-14mm bolt and all corrosponding hose's connected to it . now the oil/air seperator again 12-14mm bolts and disconnect the 2 hose's with your long nose pillers . now you can remove the heatshield you should be able to see your manifold in all its glory . your almost done !! . now grab your 14mm spanner there is 8 bolts 4 top 4 bottom. undo these in a even pattern (undo a bolt then undo its opposite) dont lose the washers ! now all bolts are out you are ready to pull it out

 

(&) Stainless steel manifold ok having a tuned length manifold does not allow you to have the std egr , oil/air seperator or heatshield . so all you must do is undo the 8 14mm bolts . undo these in a even pattern (undo a bolt then undo its opposite) dont lose the washers! and you are ready to pull it out unless your car has ABS procced to step 6 . if it has abs follow (@) steps below

 

(@) in side the passenger guard there are 2 12-14mm nuts undo these now from under the car you should see the abs bracket near the bottom there will be 1 12-14mm nut undo this. now the abs unit is able to be moved. lift the abs unit up gently and pull it towards you . this gives you sufficent remove to get the Stainless manifold out.

 

6) ok now you have everything disconnected and there is room you can now pull the turbo out. the easiest way is to pull it towards the strut tower so its off the studs then lift the front up at a 45 degree angle and pull it straight up and out. sometimes it comes out first go sometimes you gotta put some muscle into it . just make sure everything is free and nothing is touching.

 

7) Your done !!! wasnt hard now was it. Ok now wether you are changing gaskets / turbo / manifold there are some steps below just follow the one that suits your application

 

Replacing the turbo to manifold gasket - bend the locking tabs down and remove the 4 bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold 12-13mm bolts. now split the two items apart you should now see your gasket . replace and follow the steps in reverse then go to step 8

 

Replacing the turbo - bend the locking tabs down and remove the 4 bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold 12-13mm bolts. now split the two items apart . now change the manifold over to your new turbo make sure to use new gaskets and studs/nuts to insure durability and follow the steps in reverse then go to step 8

 

Replacing the manifold - bend the locking tabs down and remove the 4 bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold 12-13mm bolts. now split the two items apart . now change the turbo over to your new manifold make sure to use new gaskets ( the ones supplied with the china manifolds are bad :D ) and studs/nuts to insure durability ( manifold will crack b4 the bolts/studs let go ) and follow the steps in reverse then go to step 8

 

8)Now that everything is back on and tight ! you must refill your cooling system :D . fill it up untill its full . now undo the 10mm bleed bolt on the coolant eblow and fill it up again untill coolant comes out. tighten the bolt back up. now run the car with the heater on hot and recurculating . do this untill the thermostat opens and the bubbles stop . top up and place the cap on .check your oil level and top up if required .

Now roadtest to make sure everything is in order. and recheck for anyleak's

 

 

This guide is writen by me DRF78E . i wrote it my self and did not re word some one else's guide. if you have any problems pm me or contact me on 0406209351

 

DISCLAIMER i have wrote this guide as a step for you's to have a idea on how to do the work yourselfs . if you dont think you can do it nor have the tools equipment . get a proffesional to do it. im not responsible for any damage you may incur to your vehicle following my guide

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hey i was just woundering can u pull a turbo off and just get a new exhaust manafold on a s14 S2 will and will it run fine or do u have to change the pistons etc.?? because im on my P's (therefor not aloud turbo)

 

thanks

 

pyro_566

Edited by pyro_566

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It will be slow as f**k due to the low comp turbo motor if you ran it like that. Not worth the effort/cost

 

Your options:

 

1. Break the law and drive a turbo. Everyone does it

2. Wait until you can legally drive one before buying it.

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I am about to change all the gasket and have the part numbers here, so i figured i will share them

 

This is for a S13

 

Part number - - - - - - -Item - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Price I payed for it

 

1441517M00 - - - - - - Turbo to Manifold - - - - - - $AU37.93

1403653J00 - - - - - Manifold to Head - - - - - - $AU15.76

1444526E00 - - - - - Turbo to Dump - - - - - - - $AU44.48

1406401M00 - - - - - -Stud - - - - - - -$AU9.81 each(you need 4 i beleave)

1449517F00 - - - - - -Plate lock - - - - - - -$AU4.50 each(you need 2 i beleave) This item is very important.

144320B83 - - - - - - -Nut outlet - - - - - - -$AU9.53 each (you need 4 i beleave)

Edited by Timmyp34

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Sr20det Turbo Removal

s13/14/15

All Variations included

 

Ok to Start of required tools are

 

Good quality 3/8 socket set 8mm-19

Good quality spanner set 8mm - 19mm

Good pair of long nose piller's and multi grips

optional tools , car ramps but your std car jack should suffice

5L's of new coolant (tectaloy 60-90)

Big bucket at least 10L's

 

 

 

Ok lets do this

 

 

1)Drive the car in to your work bay/area . lift up the bonnet (engine off) remove your struct brace (if you have one) jack up the car from the passenger side just behind the front wheel on the seal panel, now you have to options you can drain your engine oil and coolant . or just drain the coolant . the oil doesnt come out only a few hunder ml's the coolant on the other hand will go every were.

 

2)Place a bucket under the bottom radiator hose . and remove the clamp and drain all coolant into a bucket. while this is draining . remove your hot pipe . 8-10mm will be needed depending on your clamps . remove the clamp on the turbo outlet and then the one on the other side of the hot pipe also disconnect your vacuum lines from this. now remove your intake pipe . again 8-10mm for the clamp's leave your AFM and pod connected .

undo the clamp on the turbo inlet . also remove PVC hose's going into the intake pipe . BOV return . AFM plug. and lift it out all in one go . your turbo should now be more visable .

 

3)Ok now hop under the car (passenger side) and undo the turbo oil drain line clamp

then undo depending on your exhaust system if you have a 2 peice dump and front then follow step (#) below . if you have a one piece front and dump then follow step (@) below

 

(#)undo the 3 14mm bolts connecting your front and dump pipe. proceed to step 4

 

(@) undo the 2 14mm bolts from the cat and remove the 5 12mm dump pipe bolts and remove the complete front and dump from the car. proceed to step 4

 

4)Now the turbo lines . for s13 follow step (#) below and for s14/15 follow the step with the (@) below

 

# s13 . on the block the top banjo bolt 19mm is the water line . undo this . under that is a 17mm banjo this is your oil line undo this . make sure to not lose the washers . now at the back of the motor inbetween the fire wall and motor there is a metal line connected to a rubber hose with a clamp this is the coolant line . remove the clamp and rubber hose . your turbo should now be free and ready to almost come out

 

@ s14/15 . on the block the top banjo bolt 19mm is the water line . undo this . under that is a 17mm banjo this is your oil line undo this . make sure to not lose the washers . now on the top coolant elbow there is another banjo bolt 19mm this is your other water line remove this . your turbo should now be free and ready to almost come out.

 

5)Depending whether or not you have a Stainless steel manifold (&) or standard manifold (#) follow the corrosponding procedures .

 

(#) Standard manifold (including egr and oil/air seperator) - remove the std head shield this consists of 10mm bolt 3 on the top 1 on the side . now remove the egr bracket 12-14mm bolt and all corrosponding hose's connected to it . now the oil/air seperator again 12-14mm bolts and disconnect the 2 hose's with your long nose pillers . now you can remove the heatshield you should be able to see your manifold in all its glory . your almost done !! . now grab your 14mm spanner there is 8 bolts 4 top 4 bottom. undo these in a even pattern (undo a bolt then undo its opposite) dont lose the washers ! now all bolts are out you are ready to pull it out

 

(&) Stainless steel manifold ok having a tuned length manifold does not allow you to have the std egr , oil/air seperator or heatshield . so all you must do is undo the 8 14mm bolts . undo these in a even pattern (undo a bolt then undo its opposite) dont lose the washers! and you are ready to pull it out unless your car has ABS procced to step 6 . if it has abs follow (@) steps below

 

(@) in side the passenger guard there are 2 12-14mm nuts undo these now from under the car you should see the abs bracket near the bottom there will be 1 12-14mm nut undo this. now the abs unit is able to be moved. lift the abs unit up gently and pull it towards you . this gives you sufficent remove to get the Stainless manifold out.

 

6) ok now you have everything disconnected and there is room you can now pull the turbo out. the easiest way is to pull it towards the strut tower so its off the studs then lift the front up at a 45 degree angle and pull it straight up and out. sometimes it comes out first go sometimes you gotta put some muscle into it . just make sure everything is free and nothing is touching.

 

7) Your done !!! wasnt hard now was it. Ok now wether you are changing gaskets / turbo / manifold there are some steps below just follow the one that suits your application

 

Replacing the turbo to manifold gasket - bend the locking tabs down and remove the 4 bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold 12-13mm bolts. now split the two items apart you should now see your gasket . replace and follow the steps in reverse then go to step 8

 

Replacing the turbo - bend the locking tabs down and remove the 4 bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold 12-13mm bolts. now split the two items apart . now change the manifold over to your new turbo make sure to use new gaskets and studs/nuts to insure durability and follow the steps in reverse then go to step 8

 

Replacing the manifold - bend the locking tabs down and remove the 4 bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold 12-13mm bolts. now split the two items apart . now change the turbo over to your new manifold make sure to use new gaskets ( the ones supplied with the china manifolds are bad biggrin.gif ) and studs/nuts to insure durability ( manifold will crack b4 the bolts/studs let go ) and follow the steps in reverse then go to step 8

 

8)Now that everything is back on and tight ! you must refill your cooling system biggrin.gif . fill it up untill its full . now undo the 10mm bleed bolt on the coolant eblow and fill it up again untill coolant comes out. tighten the bolt back up. now run the car with the heater on hot and recurculating . do this untill the thermostat opens and the bubbles stop . top up and place the cap on .check your oil level and top up if required .

Now roadtest to make sure everything is in order. and recheck for anyleak's

 

 

This guide is writen by me DRF78E . i wrote it my self and did not re word some one else's guide. if you have any problems pm me or contact me on 0406209351

 

DISCLAIMER i have wrote this guide as a step for you's to have a idea on how to do the work yourselfs . if you dont think you can do it nor have the tools equipment . get a proffesional to do it. im not responsible for any damage you may incur to your vehicle following my guide

 

 

hey mate im just about to get my first car its a 1989 s13 with a ca18det, coz im in vic though we cant drive turbos. It's all good and well to tell me the stereotypical dont buy a turbo then, its gonna be slow if you take it out anyway bla bla bla speech but if you could actually help me that would be great. So yeah does the S13 part of this guide count for the ca18det? and what else would i need to do after i remove the turbo im thinking a retune? anything else? thanks mate

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ino this is old but very good explanation ay so helpful! kudos

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I am about to change all the gasket and have the part numbers here, so i figured i will share them

 

This is for a S13

 

Part number - - - - - - -Item - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Price I payed for it

 

1441517M00 - - - - - - Turbo to Manifold - - - - - - $AU37.93

1403653J00 - - - - - Manifold to Head - - - - - - $AU15.76

1444526E00 - - - - - Turbo to Dump - - - - - - - $AU44.48

1406401M00 - - - - - -Stud - - - - - - -$AU9.81 each(you need 4 i beleave)

1449517F00 - - - - - -Plate lock - - - - - - -$AU4.50 each(you need 2 i beleave) This item is very important.

144320B83 - - - - - - -Nut outlet - - - - - - -$AU9.53 each (you need 4 i beleave)

 

do nissan have a kit available for this? or will i have to get all these bits individually,

also, would it be worth replacing the studs coming off the engine?

 

and for those looking at the prices of the nuts and turbo to manifold studs(1406401M00) , they are stainless steel if that is any consolation

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I'm about to upgrade my t25g to a 2871r in the 180sx. Also with the upgrade, I'll be installing 740cc Nismo injectors and a z32 afm. I'm doing the turbo install and will be towing the car to the tuners.

 

Now I've heard that it will run like shit without a tune. Not sure if "runs like shit" means that I won't be able to get the car to idle? So here's a few questions, as I need to get these done before bringing it to the tuner!

 

1. How will I bleed the coolant if the car will run like shit?

2. I'm also planning to dump the old oil and replace with new at the time of replacing the turbo, so again if the car will run like shit without a tune, how do I check to ensure that I have the right amount of oil?

3. Questions 1. and 2. need to be done before attempting to install the injectors and afm right?

4. Also, with regard to getting oil through the turbo before starting her up I need to run oil through the line first and spin the comp wheel and wait till oil comes out of the oil drain. Then connect the lines to the block and crank the motor with the CAS disconnected... Is this correct and the safest way not to kill the turbo?

 

Any clarification is very much appreciated!

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

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great right up and pretty much spot on aswell..well done

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