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rezzy_S13

SR20de to DET Reachin out before part out

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ok so i'm at the point where i'm in need of some wiring fingerbanging guy/chick to come and say have you checked this and its 1 little wire or something i've missed and then she starts.

 

So i done the whole SR20de to SR20DET conversion and the 2 wires behind ze headlight bridged (thanks to wizard and his mad soldering skills)

 

now this is all that should have needed to be done to go bang bang but no...

 

issue 1. No power to ecu pin 36

Issue 2. No Fuel pump priming

issue 3. Passenger window wont work now... (No its not the amp)

issue 4. Wiper is turned on

 

After repairing a few wires from a doner loom (Another thanks to wizard) she seems to be getting spark to all coils and all injectors are pulsing and she wants to start buuuut NO FUEL!

 

the EGI relay seems to be clicking off and on like it should and ive checked every fuse 3 times now after every attempt to fix and my fingers are killing

 

ive tried grounding the thick blue/red stripe wire from fuel pump and that still dont work

 

i removed old pump and replaced with a walbro new cradle and wiring just coz and still no priming.

 

i tried bridging the power wire to fuel pump wire in brown plug but think i hit the wrong wire as thats when the wipers turned on - obviously i disconnected it but its still acting as if its on when its off.

 

Any thoughts of saving me from going insane is deminishing at an alarming rate and would happily accept anyones thoughts or ideas on what possible things i can check

 

 

PS. wipers and window can go to hell for the moment its winter anyways

Edited by rezzy_S13

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C'mon people can't all be waiting for me to part out can you?

 

"bump"

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Have you got power to the fuel pump relay in the engine bay? ( think its green from memory)

If so have you tried bridging that

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Which area are you in Rezzy? I may have the time to check it out later in the week, depending on your location.

 

I would suggest you start running some continuity checks. Check the legs/sockets of all the box fuses, then run a check between the fuse crimp connectors on the underside of the fuse boxes (with the fuses installed). You really should confirm that of the fuses are making decent contact with crimped sockets, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail. I had that issue with my accessories circuit once. Next, run a continuity check between the fuses to the Pump Relay. I'd just unplug the wiper module until the other problems have been solved and the car runs. The wiper issue should be very easy to fix, and could even be a failed stalk. I had the same issuse with mine once, and iirc it was due to taking power from the wrong line. I fixed it by doing something I can't recall, so not a hard thing to fix.

 

Keep in mind that in the absolute worst-case scenario, it's totally fine to run a brand new line for the fuel pump, which is what I did for reliability reasons. So it can definitely be fixed if all else fails.

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Yeah i tried jumping the relay with pin 3and5 and that didnt work also.

 

Have you got power to the fuel pump relay in the engine bay? ( think its green from memory)

If so have you tried bridging that

Which area are you in Rezzy? I may have the time to check it out later in the week, depending on your location.

 

I would suggest you start running some continuity checks. Check the legs/sockets of all the box fuses, then run a check between the fuse crimp connectors on the underside of the fuse boxes (with the fuses installed). You really should confirm that of the fuses are making decent contact with crimped sockets, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail. I had that issue with my accessories circuit once. Next, run a continuity check between the fuses to the Pump Relay. I'd just unplug the wiper module until the other problems have been solved and the car runs. The wiper issue should be very easy to fix, and could even be a failed stalk. I had the same issuse with mine once, and iirc it was due to taking power from the wrong line. I fixed it by doing something I can't recall, so not a hard thing to fix.

 

Keep in mind that in the absolute worst-case scenario, it's totally fine to run a brand new line for the fuel pump, which is what I did for reliability reasons. So it can definitely be fixed if all else fails.

 

I'm in Campbelltown man would be awesome if im not too far out of your area but willing to pay $$ or reach around :)

 

Yeah good idea, i'll check the underside of the fuse box tonight for the fuel pump, relay and fuse etc.

 

i am getting power to the pump tho... cant recall which wire was getting power think it was green/blue on body side before fuel pump plug and also tried grounding the thick blue wire on pump side of the connection.

Edited by rezzy_S13

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ok so i didn't have much time after work last night but was able to check the fuse is getting power which is good and seems to be getting almost 12v to the fuel pump relay...

 

whats the thoughts on running a power wire from the relay > fuel pump if the relay isn't dodgy that is.

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That's totally fine. I currently have a new line running from my battery to the relay, with a new fuse inline.

 

Guys in the US often do it due to degraded wires on their 240sx's, allowing their fuel pumps to receive greater voltage due to the reduced resistance in the line.

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That's totally fine. I currently have a new line running from my battery to the relay, with a new fuse inline.

 

Guys in the US often do it due to degraded wires on their 240sx's, allowing their fuel pumps to receive greater voltage due to the reduced resistance in the line.

 

Awesome man, i think this is going to be the best way - i'ts confusing why this has happened but oh well.

 

if i'm relocating the battery to the boot is it best to just go straight from there and make a seperate relay or go from the connection in the front to the relay with the fuse inline?

 

i'm a wiring retard and dont really understand but i'm willing to give it a shot

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if i'm relocating the battery to the boot is it best to just go straight from there and make a seperate relay or go from the connection in the front to the relay with the fuse inline?

i'm a wiring retard and dont really understand but i'm willing to give it a shot

 

Yep, that's the way to go. I relocated my battery to the boot, and ran a new power line to an inline fuse, then to a new relay near the pump, and grounding via a new earth to the chassis. I trip the relay using the output from the stock relay to simplify the process. This setup ensures stock functionality with regard to the ability to engage or disengage the pump, but with maximum voltage and current available to the pump via a short, fat power line.

 

You could of course run all the lines and completely remove the stock fuse and relay from the system, but for the tiny current draw as a relay trigger, it's really not worth the effort.

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NewFuelPumprelay_zps39c877c1.jpg
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NewFuelPumprelay_zps39c877c1.jpg

 

Thanks man looks fairly easy to do - horn relay seems to be more usefull than i thought.

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If you are getting power at the fuel pump relay in the engine bay are you getting it at the wire at the top of the tank

 

if not just work backwards to find where the paower stops, if cant figure out why just do that^ when you find power to trigger

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im getting power to the other wires like the sender and everything except the white/pink wire :(

 

The white/pink wire is the power right...

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I thought it was yellow black .. Ill go out and chack if you need

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Its black/yellow stripe on body loom side, fuel pump cradle side it is white/purple and also fuel pump cradle side blue/red should go to earth.

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just out of curiosity have you checked for continuity from the fuel pump power wire to the fuel pump relay? as what your describing is a break there, the relay should have power on 2 pins, earth on another (from the ecu when you turn the car on to prime, then when its running) and then the last wire should go to the fuel pump.

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Yep there is definatly a break or stretched wire somewhere between the relay and fuel pump.

 

I'm getting 12v at the relay but 0.00 at the black yellow.

 

At this point the only thing i can really put it down to is the wires being stretched when i moved the looms above the inner guards but they went over it very easily and i don't really want to go tracing it from one end to the other so the direct line and relay idea is best however later on i may end up having kto do this if it's got anything to do with the passenger window or anything else i discover

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Fuel is sorted - Ended up running a wire from underside of the relay out directly to the black/yellow wire and job done and has plenty of fuel and started 1st go :)

 

Thanks for everyones help :)

 

Now onto the other stuff

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Nice work. Seems so rare these days that someone raises a thread for an electrical issue, the forum gives the right advice, the OP follows through and it works.

 

With regard to your passenger window issue:

 

1. Check that the passenger window lock switch hasn't been engaged on the driver's side control module

2. Disassemble the passenger switch and clean the contacts

3. Unplug the passenger window motor and apply power/earth direct from the battery using some bits of wire/jumper leads/whatever. If the motor is good, it should move in both directions with power applied directly.

 

With regard to the wiper issue:

 

1. Test a different wiper control module (brown box on the passenger side in the engine bay).

2. Trace back all the lines for the wiper control module to the relay box near the intake, checking for any breaks or wires spliced the wrong way.

3. Replace the wiper relay with one known to work, as a collapsed relay can bridge and cause it to go closed-circuit.

4. Replace the wiper stalk with one known to work.

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Haha yeah i know right - i know due to moving the loom i'ts probably been my own doing but checking everything everyone suggested ruled everything out and left me with the 2 options i guess either wire it like you and locky did in the boot or if the relay was good straight from there so i'm happy it fired up.

 

Regarding the passenger window:

 

i seriously didnt even think of the lock button and as my son has been playing in there while i'm doing shit i bet thats probably whats happened

 

Regarding the wipers:

 

i reckon when ive put power to the wire i thought was the fuel wire on the brown plug ive now made it think that its on as all the speeds still work but the max speed hits 1 down click early so the last click does nothing if that makes any sense.

 

the only other thing thats happened is the reverse beeper is constantly on now so constant beeping but i can just unhook that easy enough i guess

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check over your loom dude. the symptoms are random enough that you probably have broken insulation from wheel scrub and random wires are touching

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