I need more help >_<

[Ambi 0]

So over the last couple of days I've installed a new exhaust manifold on my t28bb with full exhaust system with a deleted cat and it was all made by the same company "TOG auto". So I start it up and it sounds pretty weird but I figured that's just the new exhaust. Then I take it around the block and it won't rev 3500rpm. If I try it runs ruff as guts and kinda feels like the turbo it self is stopping it self. I put everything back together the same way I took it apart, all the bolts are tight as f**k plus locking tabs on the turbo, air flow meter is hooked up, a wire broke on the o2 sensor so I solded a bit of wire in there and I plugged up the egr pipe that went to the stock manifold. I'm really lost, pissed off and I need help. My suggestion so far has been boost leak but I've checked all my lines to my boost controller, my ecu which is stock, a boost cut which I was only running 10psi before I swap everything out an it ran fine and someone thought that since I solded a wire to link two broken ones together on o2 sensor.

 

 

So lost >_< I've asked TOG over facebook but it's late, I've got a few responses of them but they'll call me tomorrow or on monday.

[Silvieson 5]

not something silly like a silicon on your intercooler piping having a split in it and when it builds up boost pressure it blows it out?

[DRE20 21]

do you have one of these on your dump pipe?

 

[DRE20 21]

well anyways, i changed from t25 to t28bb turbo (stock s15 turbo) and that little separator thing didnt fit in the t28, the tog dump pipes are ok quality except that separator, its slightly in the wrong spot. So i took it off but had to weld up the holes and grind back the welds so they were nice and flat as there would of been 2 bolt holes for exhaust to leak through. Might not be your problem but figured i would let you know anyways.

 

[DRE20 21]

my theory on yours would be that if you are running that separator, it might be pushing on the gate flapper inside the housing not letting it open properly.

[Ambi 0]

Nope its a single holed dump pipe (like my old one) all made to fit the sr20det on a s14a/s14s2. After looking at it today I don't think my waste gate is working properly. The bar on the waste gate doesn't move at all.

 

https://www.facebook...876211852392289

 

Yeah I think it's the flap too but not for the same reason you're thinking but I really don't want to take it apart right now and I need more parts and have no money

Edited July 6, 2014 by Ambi

[DRE20 21]

says content unavailable, right click the pic in facebook, then click copy URL, then in here click the image logo just above where you type, and post the link in there and click post down the bottom and the picture will turn up in here.

[Ambi 0]

Try the same link now it should work or I'll upload it some where else. I live in deception bay and I welcome any help 0415529264

Edited July 6, 2014 by Ambi

[s13k's 0]

Won't rev past 3500rpm = limp mode?

 

Check AFM, AFM writing etc

[Ambi 0]

All the wires to the AFM are fine but I don't know where the other end I can't really follow it. Does anyone know where it ends up? Looks like its splits on mine

[s13k's 0]

All the wires to the AFM are fine but I don't know where the other end I can't really follow it. Does anyone know where it ends up? Looks like its splits on mine

 

It's either that or you have a massive boost leak

Edited July 6, 2014 by s13k's

[DRE20 21]

You don't have any rags stuck in your intercooler piping/intercooler? Have seen that happen before, wouldn't rev past 3-3500rpm...

[Ambi 0]

I'm going to rip it apart again too see >_<

[Ambi 0]

Took a spin in my car again and it's only making 4 - 5 psi when it was set to 10psi before I swapped anything out.

[pmod 261]

Could be the wastegate stuck open, a silicone pipe that's split or popping off and returning under compression, a welded and clocked intake snout that's cracked off, or the exhaust front pipe sitting hard up against the chassis rail (the latest issue my car had).

[Ambi 0]

What's a "welded and clocked intake snout that's cracked off" and if the exhaust front pipe sitting hard up against the chassis rail why would it cause this problem also which is the exhaust front pipe again? Lol

[pmod 261]

What's a "welded and clocked intake snout that's cracked off" and if the exhaust front pipe sitting hard up against the chassis rail why would it cause this problem also which is the exhaust front pipe again? Lol

 

For some reason I thought you had an S13. The stock T25 turbo's intake pipe points in the wrong direction if fitted to a T28 on an S13. Most people either buy a 'clocking plate', which is just a plate with 2 bolt holes and 2 studs to mount the pipe at a different orientation, or they cut the pipe off, rotate it and weld it in a new orientation. If the welding cracks and separates, at around 3500rpm it pops open and feels like someone slammed on the brakes.

 

If the front pipe is against the chassis rail, you have zero space for the engine to rotate on its mounts. It causes a tonne of vibration and when the chassis twists slightly during turns, the vibrations will get much stronger. It won't cause your low boost issue, but you should never assume you only have one problem anyway.

 

The dump pipe is the short piece hanging off the back of the turbo, and the front pipe is the section between it and the cat.

[Ambi 0]

All fixed just a loose intercooler connection. I really got a straight pipe with a muffler and only running around 8 - 10 psi... what should I run?

Edited July 8, 2014 by Ambi

[DRE20 21]

12-14 will be fine. Any less is boring imo.

[Ambi 0]

Yeah sweet because I haven't noticed any power gain