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SirJB

s13.5 +300Kw Drift Car build

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I first started drifting in 2012 at Winton and since then I have been hooked! In 2013 I decided after a few car issues that I would buy a dedicated track car.

After looking at a few options that were available around Townsville, I finally found a car that would suit my purpose.

 

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This car had seen better days, only a few years ago it was a show car and now it was a bit of a mess, but I could see the potential. I then ran into a bloke at autobarn who told me the following story about the car and he also had a few photos!

 

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The car was purchased by a girl from Brisbane and then driven to Townsville. It had a complete custom leather interior, custom boot enclosure and sound system with an s15 SR20DE with extractors and 3" exhaust. It also had some cheap coilovers. This girl then thrashed it around Townsville creating quite a name for herself! Then she decided to cheat on her Boyfriend and because she loved the car so much he decided to take his anger out on the car :( It now has the word SLUT etched in the boot, the front bar was trashed and numerous dints were put into it. After that incident it was sold to a bloke who was going to fix it up who sold it to another bloke who was going to fix it up who sold it to me.

 

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SO! The plan was to build it in the second half of 2013. Which was achieved, including the build of a trailer! This first post will aim to cover off on this first build so I can get onto the more interesting current build!

 

The first thing I did was strip out the horrible purple and black leather interior. I quickly found rust around the sunroof and dynamat everywhere.

I don't know if you have removed dynamat before but it is the WORST! hours and hours of scraping that black tar off the entire interior.

 

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The rust was pretty extensive, although i quickly got to work and started replacing it with new metal!

 

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I also found that a lot of bog had been used in the original show car build!

 

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Here is me adding some more!

 

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It was easier and cheaper to just go to a two tone black and purple, so out came the spray cans.

 

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And TaDa!

 

From there I started ordering parts and working on the mechanical side of things!

 

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MIG LSD! :)

 

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Cut and shut knuckles! (These were modified further from this point, but i dont have many more pictures.

 

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New parts started to turn up! :)

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Takata Belts!

 

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Bride Seats

 

The S15 SR20DE was then removed and a newly purchased S13 SR20DET went in!

 

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Engine out

 

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New Engine in!

 

I also fitted GKTech Rocker Stoppers, a GKtech fan and an ISC 52mm Alloy Radiator.

 

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BM50 master cylinder install

 

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s15 front brake and 5 stud install.

 

My new weld in CAMS roll cage turned up from Bond Roll Bars. This kit required me to cut all bars to length and appropriate shape and then weld. This was my first roll cage and took me a good 2 months on and off after work to finish. Props goes out to the blokes who do this everyday! This task was made a lot harder as I made paper templates of all of the joins and then had to cut them by hand with an angle grinder. Big job. Here are the pics!

 

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Bond roll bars s13 weld in kit

 

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Cutting holes in the seat shelf to drop the main hoop down to weld it

 

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Test fitting the main hoop. I was trying to get it as close to the roof line as possible as that is how bond had designed it.

 

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Front leg fitting

 

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Floor boxes for the front legs

 

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Fisheyes

 

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Roof Cross

 

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Seat belt plates

 

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Side intrusion bars

 

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Completed cage

 

Once the cage was welded in I had to modify the floor pan to get the seats as low as possible on the passenger side.

 

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It was similar to this as I dont have any pictures of me making it. I will add a completed one later on

 

I has decided early on that I was going to paint the wheels and cage a fluro/kawsaki green. Thanks to Townsville Wholesale paint I was hooked up with this awesome paint!

 

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The Wheels were then primed

 

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White base coat

 

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Final colour with clear

 

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Interior getting an enamel base coat

 

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Cage getting primed

 

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Under coat

 

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Base coat

 

 

That will do for tonight but here is what it was doing a couple of months later!

 

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Edited by SirJB

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So far all I have shown you was the initial build, which had the intent of building a reliable basic drift car. I thought that I should give you an idea of the current build, so here are the specs for the current build and then I will get back into how i got here!

 

Engine:

Virgin Polished crank - Balanced for high RPM

King Pro Big end bearings

Eagle forged rods

CP 87mm 9:1 Pistons

GTiR Oil pump

High flowed head

Valves - Unknown

New valve stem seals

BC Springs

Tomei Solid head kit

Tomei 260 Solid Cams - need to purchase intake cam (due to damage)

Tomei Adjustable Cam gears

 

Ignition:

LS2 Truck coils

 

Fuel(E85):

AI Surge Tank

Bosch 2000cc injectors

BPP Fuel Rail

Holley 12-846 FPR

AN-8 Feed Line

AN-6 Return line

2xWalbro 460

 

Intake:

S15 Manifold

Front mount cooler

K&N pod filter

3" Stainless steel piping

Tial Q 50mm - Need to purchase

 

Forced Induction: - still need to purchase turbo

Kinugawa TD06SL2-25g 8cm rear

or

Hypergear SL20.5 v-Band rear

 

Exhaust:

3" turbo back with a hotdog muffler

Currently has a milo tin but will go to twin 3" blast pipes

Tial MV-R 44mm

Screamer pipe

Haltech Wideband O2

 

ECU/Interior:

Haltech Platinum PS1000

Racepak iq3 Dash

Complete custom loom and control panel

CAMS Full 6 Point Cage with side intrusion

GKTech Hydraulic Handbrake

Bride Seats

Takata 4 point Harnesses

 

Driveline(All still to purchase):

RB25 Box

Jim Berry Full Monty Clutch

Eleven 10 Engineering bell housing

Custom Tailshaft

 

Braking:

S15 front brakes

GKTech Twin Caliper kit - Still to purchase

S13&14 rear calipers

5 stud conversion

 

Suspension:

Silkroad RMS-8 Coilovers

Hardrace upper rear control arms

+25mm front Lower control arms

Aftermarket toe front and rear

Aftermarket castor arms

 

Steering

Cut and shut knuckles

Cut and shut engine cross member to bring the steering rack forward

Longer hardened tie rods

Custom tie rod spacers (For more wheel clearance)

 

I think that is nearly everything!

I will continue the cars journey up to this point tomorrow night!

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Sounds impressive and you're clearly putting the time and cash in. Between the two turbos you've listed there I would be going with the hypergear just because of the local support factor and I have also seen a pretty good result with one. I think it was in the region of 330rwkw+

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Ok so back to the first build!

 

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This is the finished roll cage! I was stoked with the outcome of this cage although there are things that I would do differently it was a good experience.

 

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I decided that I wanted more lock so I removed the LCA's and cut them and bent up a 3mm piece of steel and welded it in. From memory it was 20-25mm wide. This is an easy mod and gives you a lot more clearance. Although I am still running 34mm of spacers as well as this. :( I need better offset wheels

 

This was pretty much the finish of the first build!

I was really happy with the outcome of this build. I had a few issues with grip in the front, massive amounts of understeer, a good wheel alignment made a big difference although I have recently found some things which may have had a bit of an effect on this.

 

When I finished the drift car I decided that I wanted to make a trailer to tow it to events rather than have to hire a trailer at $250+ a weekend as it was a 3hr drive to the nearest track.

 

So I had a look around the net for plans and different ideas. Due to limited time I ended up buying some plans off the net. They were good quality plans although looking back now I would have built it a lot different as the trailer is overkill for what I am using it for.

 

The plans came with a material list which i sent off to a few suppliers got some quotes and next thing I knew the steel was turning up at the workshop! :)

It was pretty cheap to have the steel pre-cut and saved me a lot of time, so it turned up pretty much ready to go.

 

I begun to lay it all out to get an idea of how it was going to go together.

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Tacking the 'ladders' together

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Adding on the dove tail

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Welding the ladder up

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I didn't really take any pictures from welding the frame all up until this point. So I hope you get the picture.

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I bought all of the axles, wheels, electric brakes, tongue, guards and suspension from townsville wheels and castors. I run electric brakes on the front axle with a brake controller which I have installed on the trailer to allow me to tow with any car.

 

Primed

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Painted with Hammertone blue

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Finished Product

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First day out sliding :)

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Thanks ADM15, I will eventually get to why I am doing this current build, but the reasoning behind it was do it once (thirdtime :( ) properly. There was an s15 with similar mods to mine which made 353Kw. So it looks like a good option :)

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Ok, so uni has been a pretty full on atm and some parts have started turning up for the current build so I am going to fast forward a bit.

 

These are the specs of the last build:

Engine:

Virgin Polished crank - Balanced for high RPM

King Pro Big end bearings

Eagle forged rods

CP 86.5mm 8.5:1 Pistons

S15 Oil pump

High flowed head

New Valves

New valve stem seals

BC Springs

Tomei Solid head kit

Tomei 260 Solid Cams

Tomei Adjustable Cam gears

 

Ignition:

Yellow Jacket s13 Coilpacks

s13 Ignitor

 

Fuel(98):

Nismo 750cc sidefeed Injectors

Stock FPR

Stock Rail

 

Intake:

S15 Manifold

Power Spirit front mount cooler

K&N pod filter

3" Stainless steel piping

 

Forced Induction:

Kinugawa TD06SL2-20g 8cm v band rear

 

Exhaust:

3" turbo back with a hotdog muffler and milo tin

Tial MV-R 44mm

Screamer pipe

 

ECU/Interior:

Apexi Power FC

CAMS Full 6 Point Cage with side intrusion

Bride Seats

Takata 4 point Harnesses

blitz SBC

 

Driveline(All still to purchase):

SR20 Gearbox - 5 speed

Welded diff

 

Braking:

S15 front brakes

S13 rear calipers

5 stud conversion

 

Suspension:

Silkroad RMS-8 Coilovers

Hardrace upper rear control arms

+25mm front Lower control arms

Aftermarket toe front and rear

Aftermarket castor arms

 

Steering:

Cut and shut knuckles

Cut and shut engine cross member to bring the steering rack forward

Longer hardened tie rods

Custom tie rod spacers (For more wheel clearance)

 

 

I spent the first two months of the year prepping the car for Summer Matsuri at Winton. This was before I left:

 

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I finished work early on friday and got down to Winton at 5pm and set up the pits. I got the car through scruitineering with a few hicups (Forgot to plug the hazard switch back in) :P and got pumped to get out onto track. First session for B Class I was the first car out onto the track and as I pulled onto the straight, the car died. I was quickly towed off and after the session ended I realised that the earth for the fuel pump had come loose.

 

Third lap in I clutch kicked third going into the sweeper and the car just free reved. Then the wonderfull smell of clutch wafted into the cabin :cursing:

We drove off track put the car up on jack stands and pulled the gearbox out. This is what the clutch looked like: (6-7 drift days old!!!!!)

 

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Exeedy HHD Button clutch :rant:

 

I managed to find someone with a used Sr20 clutch which was in better knick than this one. So I bought it off him for $50. Luckily I had a clutch alligning tool with me, but I am afraid it was still a PITA getting the gear box back in. It involved three blokes covered in oil on their backs sliding the gearbox in and no this is not the start of some weird porno.

 

We got it back together for the last 10min of the 6PM session. The car went well, thankfully! Although I cant say much for my driving :P

I managed to get out for the last session too and found that this clutch was holding up well. Beers were had that night!

 

First session on the sunday,third lap I lost boost. Thinking I had just blown a cooler pipe, I drove off the track to put the pipe back on. After getting out of the car I shut off the car and went looking for the boost leak, unfortunately I couldnt find anything. So I started the car up and listening to the engine, it seemed to be getting noisier. I then recognised the sound of knock and shut it off. Pulling off the intake pipe let me see this:

 

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My turbo had eaten itself :( and there is only one place that metal could have gone!

 

At this point I loaded up the car and headed back to Canberra. I think having to load up the 30 tires that I hadn't fried was the worst bit!

 

The long drive back to Canberra gave me lots of time to weigh up my options.

 

More to come.

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When I got home I decided to start pulling it down to see the damage. You have already seen the damage to the turbo, although whilst trying to determine the cause I found oil in the turbo centre which looked ok so i thought that oil wasnt the cause. Oh how wrong I was! :S

 

I pulled the engine and gearbox out as a whole just for ease.

 

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Having a quick look under the rocker cover showed a bit of heavy wear on two of the lobes on the intake cam.

 

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This started pointing more and more towards an oil issue.

 

The cam carriers in the head also had a bit of damage

 

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So my Tomei intake cam is no more. Thankfully I should be able to reuse the exhaust cam!

 

I pulled the sump off and found some very small metal shavings :tears: Pulling the end caps off I found some galling on the bearings

 

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The crankshaft looked pretty good though, so win there! :naughty:

 

I removed the head and found that there was no damage to the valve or head :lol: The bores were pretty scored though :tears:

 

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Removing the pistons showed the expected wear on the skirts :tears:

 

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It wasnt until I removed the oil pump that I found the issue:

 

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I will let the images do the speaking:

 

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A Line up of the victims:

 

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So the moral of this story is, if your oil pressure gauge f**ks up: BUY A F*CKING NEW ONE!

 

 

At this point I was too invested and had to go for a ground up rebuild. Doing it properly one last time!

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Here is a vid of my mate following me drifting at Proserpine.

 

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Exciting times! New Parts!

 

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New CP 87mm 9:1 Pistons. Aftermarket Industries SP400. Earls Inline AN-8 Filter. Holley 12-846 FPR.

 

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BPP S15 Fuel Rail kit. 1000CC Bosch injectors pictured. Now swapped with Bosch 2000CC injectors.

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