Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
CrUzEr

my build

Recommended Posts

So in the last few weeks, I’ve been trying to gathering general information on a 300rwkw build.

Been through so many threads and but now at a point of information overload with contradicting information on different threads.

 

The car will be used as a weekend car and will not be tracked.

And yes, I’m well aware that 300rwkw is overkill on the road as it won’t be fully useable.

But this is a goal that I’ve set for myself, hence the 300rwkw target.

 

So far, this is the list I believe that I will need to get it all going to make the power.

 

*ENGINE/LONG BLOCK*

1995 180sx sr20det non vct

Tomei Poncams 256/256

Tomei RAS kit

Brian Crower Single Spring/Titanium (might as well while I’m working in there)

Spitfire Coil pack

HKS 750cc Injectors

China cooler 600x300x76

z32 AFM

OEM bottom end

 

*INTAKE/FUEL*

GReddy intake manifold

60mm throttle body

Fuel pump (Bosch 023)

Tubo back exhaust

Manifold???

 

*EXHAUST/TURBO*

HyperGear ATR28SS2 T2 350~500HP

Braided turbo lines

Greddy Profec Electronic Boost controller

 

*ECU*

Vipec or Power FC

 

 

How much power do you think that this setup will make?

Is there anything I need to change?

Edited by CrUzEr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So in the last few weeks, I’ve been trying to gathering general information on a 300rwkw build.

Been through so many threads and but now at a point of information overload with contradicting information on different threads.

 

The car will be used as a weekend car and will not be tracked.

And yes, I’m well aware that 300rwkw is overkill on the road as it won’t be fully useable.

But this is a goal that I’ve set for myself, hence the 300rwkw target.

 

So far, this is the list I believe that I will need to get it all going to make the power.

 

*ENGINE/LONG BLOCK*

Tomei Poncams 256/256

Tomei RAS kit

Brian Crower Single Spring/Titanium (might as well while I’m working in there)

Spitfire Coil pack

HKS 750cc Injectors

China cooler 600x300x76

z32 AFM

OEM bottom end

 

*INTAKE/FUEL*

GReddy intake manifold

60mm throttle body

Fuel pump (Bosch 023)

Tubo back exhaust

Manifold???

 

*EXHAUST/TURBO*

HyperGear ATR28SS2 T2 350~500HP

Braided turbo lines

Greddy Profec Electronic Boost controller

 

*ECU*

Vipec or Power FC

 

 

How much power do you think that this setup will make?

Is there anything I need to change?

 

Hey man your pretty much on the money but I'd change a few things to save you wasting your money and putting it towards running e85 setup (fuel rail kit, injectors, fuel reg, and pump)

 

What car and motor/age/ budget we talking about here?

 

Don't worry about split fires use standard or buy new depending on age.

 

Greddy plenum is nice but don't worry about it standard is fine.

Go with walbro 460 pump they're proven.

 

If the Standard manifold works with that turbo don't change it either.

 

I'd go with haltech over anything else imo most tuners tune them and you can use the boost control that comes with them and a lot of other features. It also gets rid of the air flow meter so no need for z32.

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey RobJDM,

Thanks for the quick reply. I've updated the post to include my car details :)

 

Any recommendations on the below?

-fuel rail kit

-injectors

-fuel reg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bpp rail kit, 1000cc injectors, flex sensor, turbosmart fuel reg.

Use yaris coilpacks if you have problems with std ones( Sam white- whiteys wiring is releasing a bolt in kit soon)

Do head gasket and studs while doing cams. Get what ecu your tuner recommends nistune now supports flex fuel too.

Edited by robbo_rb180

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

*ENGINE/LONG BLOCK*

Tomei Poncams 256/256

Tomei RAS kit

Arp studs

Metal head gasket

Brian Crower Single Spring/Titanium

Spitfire Coil pack

1000cc top feed Injectors

Bpp fuel rail

China cooler 600x300x76

R35 AFM

OEM bottom end

 

*INTAKE/FUEL*

Standard intake manifold

Standard throttle body

Fuel pump (walbro 460)

Tubo back exhaust

Standard exhaust manifold

 

*EXHAUST/TURBO*

Gtx3071

Braided turbo lines

Greddy Profec Electronic Boost controller

 

*ECU*

Nistune with flex upgrade and flex sensor

Edited by Kirksil13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd keep the OEM valve spring retainers over titanium ones, unless you like replacing them at regular intervals. They sacrifice durability for a very small weight reduction in the valve train.

 

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2444272&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

Edited by stockblues15

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd keep the OEM valve spring retainers over titanium ones, unless you like replacing them at regular intervals. They sacrifice durability for a very small weight reduction in the valve train.

 

Did not know you have to change the valve spring retainers at regular intervals and never saw a post where someone mentioned that.

I'll keep that at the back of my mind :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the Gtx3071 you will need a t3 exhaust manifold. Don't bother with the t2 rear version.

Don't need a separate boost controller either.

Edited by robbo_rb180

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

*ENGINE/LONG BLOCK*

Tomei Poncams 256/256

Tomei RAS kit

Arp studs

Metal head gasket

Brian Crower Single Spring/Titanium

Spitfire Coil pack

1000cc top feed Injectors

Bpp fuel rail

China cooler 600x300x76

R35 AFM

OEM bottom end

 

*INTAKE/FUEL*

Standard intake manifold

Standard throttle body

Fuel pump (walbro 460)

Tubo back exhaust

Standard exhaust manifold

 

*EXHAUST/TURBO*

Gtx3071

Braided turbo lines

Greddy Profec Electronic Boost controller

 

*ECU*

Nistune with flex upgrade and flex sensor

 

Hey KirkSil13

any recommendation on the injectors & flex sensor brand wise?

 

From what I read, the stock head gasket is well designed to hold over 300rwkw (of course depending on the condition of the engine). I might hold off on this for now. But will definately upgrade to ARP studs if I end up replacing the head gasket :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bpp rail kit, 1000cc injectors, flex sensor, turbosmart fuel reg.

Use yaris coilpacks if you have problems with std ones( Sam white- whiteys wiring is releasing a bolt in kit soon)

Do head gasket and studs while doing cams. Get what ecu your tuner recommends nistune now supports flex fuel too.

 

Mate, do you think I'll be maxing out on the 750cc injectors for this setup? I know 1000cc is good for more than 300rwkw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My opinion...

GtX3071 won't easily do 300kW on 98, closer to 280 safely. Will do 340+ on e85. If you want 300 on pump fuel you'll have to go to at least GTX3076, which will make 380kW on e85. I think both these turbo are too large on a standard 2L, unless you're planning on a twin scroll set-up.

You're best off with a turbo that will do 250-260kw on pump, and reach 300 on e85. I'd suggest GTX2867. It will be heaps more responsive, and will feel faster. The other aspect to consider is driveline. Standard driveline will handle my suggestion fairly easily if driven with respect. You'll start running into problems when you start getting the potential out of a GTX3071.

The last part of my advice is this: 300kW isn't that fast. You're either better off doing something milder that is almost as fast, yet more responsive and less prone to breaking stuff. Or you do it properly and go for 400-450kw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My opinion...

GtX3071 won't easily do 300kW on 98, closer to 280 safely. Will do 340+ on e85. If you want 300 on pump fuel you'll have to go to at least GTX3076, which will make 380kW on e85. I think both these turbo are too large on a standard 2L, unless you're planning on a twin scroll set-up.

You're best off with a turbo that will do 250-260kw on pump, and reach 300 on e85. I'd suggest GTX2867. It will be heaps more responsive, and will feel faster. The other aspect to consider is driveline. Standard driveline will handle my suggestion fairly easily if driven with respect. You'll start running into problems when you start getting the potential out of a GTX3071.

The last part of my advice is this: 300kW isn't that fast. You're either better off doing something milder that is almost as fast, yet more responsive and less prone to breaking stuff. Or you do it properly and go for 400-450kw

 

hmmm point taken.

I'll do some reading up on the turbo options you mentioned.

 

What are you thoughts on the Hypergear ATR28SS2 turbo?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For minimum of 300rwkws unless you have the best intercooler and biggest exhaust with 256/12 cams, it is very unlikely to reach internally gated on pump fuel. ATR28SS2 is engineered based on an built S14 VCT engine, and to my self it is on the laggy side with VCT gear unpluged.

 

To get this power with good response I recommend our ATR43G3SAT ceramic ball bearing mode externally gated, and I believe you will need step 2 cams for 300rwkws unless the target is set to be reached on E85 fuel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My opinion...

GtX3071 won't easily do 300kW on 98, closer to 280 safely. Will do 340+ on e85. If you want 300 on pump fuel you'll have to go to at least GTX3076, which will make 380kW on e85. I think both these turbo are too large on a standard 2L, unless you're planning on a twin scroll set-up.

You're best off with a turbo that will do 250-260kw on pump, and reach 300 on e85. I'd suggest GTX2867. It will be heaps more responsive, and will feel faster. The other aspect to consider is driveline. Standard driveline will handle my suggestion fairly easily if driven with respect. You'll start running into problems when you start getting the potential out of a GTX3071.

The last part of my advice is this: 300kW isn't that fast. You're either better off doing something milder that is almost as fast, yet more responsive and less prone to breaking stuff. Or you do it properly and go for 400-450kw

 

hmmm point taken.

I'll do some reading up on the turbo options you mentioned.

 

What are you thoughts on the Hypergear ATR28SS2 turbo?

 

I haven't got experience with it. The fact is that any turbo that will make 300kW on pump fuel with the standard 2L won't make power until 4500-5000rpm.

Anyone that tells you that you can get full boost by 4000rpm and 300kw is full of shit. Unless you do one or more of the following:

- Stroke the motor

- Increase compression

- Use a twin scroll setup

- Use nitrous

Or you can just save yourself the trouble, choose a smaller turbo on standard manifold and invest in E85 setup to get you to your power goal. Will be a million times better both to drive, and on your wallet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×