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Blacktop SR20 rocker-arm stopper install

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The following is a guide only. I ain't responsible if you break your s**t.

 

I installed a set of the GKTech rocker arm stoppers on my VTC SR20DET. Nissan redesigned the rocker cover to accomodate the VTC, and changed a few features that prevent the rocker cover fitting back on the head when a rocker-arm stopper kit is installed. To get the rocker cover to fit again you simply need to remove a bit of material from it.

 

Since you'll have the rocker cover off for a while, cover the head with rags to stop dirt etc getting in there.

 

To prevent grinding in the oil and leaving lots of metal/starting a fire, I degreased the whole thing and gave it a bit of a scrub.

 

Next I got to work with removing the metal from the appropriate spots. Obviously, try and prevent metal shards/filings from getting into any of the baffled areas, where possible.

 

This part is the corner of the rocker cover closest to the firewall on the exhaust side:

dsc00272smlkb6.jpg

You can see a small amount of material has been removed in a semi-circular shape towards the top left of the picture, to allow clearance for the bolt that now sits a little higher. The dremel did this part by itself fine.

 

The bigger job is removing the material from the webbing near the oil filler cap on the intake side:

dsc00274smlod1.jpg

I used an angle grinder (you'll need one with a fairly large disc to get in there properly), then tidied it up with the dremel. You have to remove some material from the sort of circular extrusion (the bit closest to the oil filler cap) rather than just cut the web to the same depth as it (when you're looking at the rocker cover it might make a bit more sense. My job ended up being a little messy, and I removed a fair bit more material than necessary.

 

After all the cutting was done, I gave the rocker cover a thorough rinse (petrol is probably best for this) and left it to dry.

dsc00280smlby6.jpg

 

The following picture was taken after the install. You can sort of make out where the RAS sits in relation to the material that needs to be removed after installation - the green lines are the edges of material that have not been cut, red lines show the outline of where the cut was made, and the RAS plate itself is shown in yellow.

dsc002851cw7.jpg

 

Then, I installed the rocker arm stoppers as per the normal redtop/non-VTC instructions:

S13 (non-VTC) RAS install instructions

dsc00276smlwd7.jpg

 

Here's a picture of the plate that needs to be removed and flattened, with the corners tidied up (again with the dremel):

dsc00278smlhq5.jpg

This has to be done on redtop/non-VTC engines as well.

 

Be careful when removing material with the dremel - most of the dremel tools will get clogged with the aluminium, so save it for tidying up where possible. I had a few of the tools explode from the heat after they got clogged. Use a non-ferrous grinding disc when using the angle grinder.

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not sure if it matters mate but the small spacer plate is backwards in the second last pic

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remember to put a bit of loctite on the bolts as well.

and cleaning out the rocker cover is very important, even if it seems time consuming.

i spent ages cleaning out all the grease that the metal shards had stuck into. don't want them ending up in the engine.

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how are the gktech ones compared to stock? excuse me if it's a stupid question, but what's the purpose of doing the install? Can you rev the engine higher now?

 

nice guide btw :yes:

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how are the gktech ones compared to stock? excuse me if it's a stupid question, but what's the purpose of doing the install? Can you rev the engine higher now?

 

nice guide btw :yes:

 

same material used as tomei rocker arm stoppers. look identical also.

Yes you can rev your engine higher but its still not really recommended. i suppose you could say its like insurance in case you accidentally rev it over.

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how are the gktech ones compared to stock? excuse me if it's a stupid question, but what's the purpose of doing the install? Can you rev the engine higher now?

 

nice guide btw

 

also to answer this question, the motor itself doesnt come out with any RAS standard. so its adding extra bits to the motor to add a bit of "insurance" to stop the rockers from displacing

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I think it might be worth mentioning to consult your manual for proper removal of camshaft bolts as there is a sequence for it, and also a sequence for tightening them with a torque setting too. If anyone knows this might be worthwhile posting it up

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I put the RAS over that plate on the exhaust side, after filing the end down she fit no probs!

took a while but ah well.

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rocker-arm stoppers are.... to stop the rocker arms coming off haha...

 

if your bouncing off the limiter the arms can come loose as by memory they are magnetically held on..

 

on my old s13 this happened and the pivots (lifters) rattled around, the rocker arm dented heaps of shit like scored the cam and snapped the notches between cam gear and cam...

 

all that for over revving it...

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Just done mine on s13 non vct engine, just undoing one of the bolts i found it has de-threaded some of the alloy...

 

Is there any type of liquid like a loc-tite product that will fix this?

 

Also what are the correct torque setting for these cam bolts?

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not a liquid but you can get Helicoils,

 

its like a tool and thing you can put a thread back in holes.

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There is a liquid product from loctite but i wouldn't trust it to retain the head studs.

This is what that guy is talking about:

http://upload.ecvv.com/upload/Product/200801/C20082716217918453_Helicoil_Thread_Repair_Kits_Helicoil_Master_Kit_Helicoil_Professional_Kit.jpg

 

There are many different brands and sizes to choose from, basically you buy the size that you are repairing.

Ie need to repair an M10x1.5 threaded hole then you buy the M10x1.5 kit.

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sorry i feel stupid first the looks hard and what will this infact do for me????

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it won't do shit to you but your car'...mate,read the post above Vlcalaisturbo already answered ur Q's....

Edited by Go 200sx

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Does anyone know the torque settings for the camshaft bearing caps?

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Does anyone know the torque settings for the camshaft bearing caps?

 

Ok translated the jap workshop manual and it says 0.9 - 1.2 kg-m. Which translates to about 12Nm. Seems a bit small.

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Tried doing this tonight but it seems the cam bolts are on really tight, the first one I tried cracked loose but only moved about 2mm and feels like I would have to put alot of force to get it out. Wat are the chances of these bolts snapping?

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Tried doing this tonight but it seems the cam bolts are on really tight, the first one I tried cracked loose but only moved about 2mm and feels like I would have to put alot of force to get it out. Wat are the chances of these bolts snapping?

Very high chance of snapping them torquing them up incorrectly. undoing not so much.

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Here's a link the right torque settings for the camshaft bracket's and rocker cover bolt's

A good quality torque wrench is essential-dont use anything else

 

Info on correct procedure for loosening & tightening these bolts can be found in pages 60-70 in the section on "replacing timing chain"

Bolts have to be undone & done up in a certain sequence

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/misc/SR/

 

Also the small spacer plate is the fitted correctly in the 1st set of pictures

Edited by S14R3P

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sorry to revive an old thread.

Just 1 question about that spacer - what does it actually do and why does it look backwards even if installed correctly?

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sorry to revive an old thread. Just 1 question about that spacer - what does it actually do and why does it look backwards even if installed correctly?

 

spaces up the oil line on the intake side

 

and i dont understand what u mean by looks backwards

Edited by SK!D

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why does th oil line need to be raised on one side and not the other? I'm assuming you raise it to get the oil squirting at the lobe?

 

backwards as it - shouldn't the cut out side face the camshaft as if it's been cut out to provide clearance for the cam lobe?

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provides room for the hole in the rockercover for the spark plug hole. it needs to be raised because the mounting tabs are that side

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i did this last night on my s14 vct... very easy process using gktech RAS..

although i had to cut out part of the inside of my ocker cover.. never seen this before, but it needed to be done

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Sorry guys, trying to install my GKtech RAS but GKtech no longer have their own install guide. Just wondering what side the piece with the rectangular cut outs goes on, is it the exhaust or intake? Also the third little piece, does that go on the intake or exhaust side and also which way should the cut out on it face? I assume the cut out are for clearance of the cam lumps but there are pictures where people have put the cut outs facing the opposite way from the cams? Really confused and just looking for some info on this, cheers guys.

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Sorry guys, trying to install my GKtech RAS but GKtech no longer have their own install guide. Just wondering what side the piece with the rectangular cut outs goes on, is it the exhaust or intake? Also the third little piece, does that go on the intake or exhaust side and also which way should the cut out on it face? I assume the cut out are for clearance of the cam lumps but there are pictures where people have put the cut outs facing the opposite way from the cams? Really confused and just looking for some info on this, cheers guys.

 

Installing RAS was probably the simplest mod I ever did.

 

have you not google how to instal ras yet? or do I need to do that for you? cmon man...

 

also I hear a rumour that GKtech make their RAS from a weaker material than tomei which apparently makes them useless upon the unlikely event the rocker comes off its seat.

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Sorry guys, trying to install my GKtech RAS but GKtech no longer have their own install guide. Just wondering what side the piece with the rectangular cut outs goes on, is it the exhaust or intake? Also the third little piece, does that go on the intake or exhaust side and also which way should the cut out on it face? I assume the cut out are for clearance of the cam lumps but there are pictures where people have put the cut outs facing the opposite way from the cams? Really confused and just looking for some info on this, cheers guys.

 

Installing RAS was probably the simplest mod I ever did.

 

have you not google how to instal ras yet? or do I need to do that for you? cmon man...

 

also I hear a rumour that GKtech make their RAS from a weaker material than tomei which apparently makes them useless upon the unlikely event the rocker comes off its seat.

So you comment saying that it was easy and that you've done it but no attempt to help me? You're description is quite accurate, you are a shit talker. I've searched the internet and as I said above everyone seems to do it differently and I just want to know what the correct way is that they were intended to be installed. Also I have never heard a bad word about GKtech, they make their RAS's out of laser cut, zinc dipped, mild steel, exactly the same as Greddy, Tomei etc. who charge upwards of $100 whereas I paid $50 and I also like to support my local Australian business. People like you are the reason forums turn to shit, I bet you're the kind of guy who lowballs everyone on drift sales and never buys anything.
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as far as i remember the rocker arm stoppers only fit one way. so it is pretty obvious when you put them in.

 

the extra piece is for the intake side to space up the oil squirter for the cam. cut out is to clear the spark plug hole on the rockercover

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