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Quigga

VN series 2 coilpack setup on your Silvia/Nissan enigne

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Task - Installing VN external coilpacks to replace the standard ones

 

Why - Mainly because its cheaper than buying new/aftermarket ones which will fail for the same reason which is HEAT from sitting in the middle of the engine. The VN coilpacks also fire 2 cylinders at the same time one to fire a piston andone fires on the exhaust stroke (wasted spark) which helps reduce emmisions without sacrificing power. The VN coilpacks will also produce a stronger spark

 

How much - in total after making the bracket and all it cost me $210aus with buying the coilpacks from a holden dealer (u will pick up second had ones MUCH cheaper but risking a failure)

 

Whats needed - VN coilpacks (2 coils to each one SO for ca/sr only 2 for rb u need 3, Sparkplug leads (get lengths to suit where ur coils will be muonted) Heat Shrink, Electrical Tape, spade plugs crimp (please ensure the right size to fit the coil plugs), corrigated split tube (not essential)

 

Tools - Pliers, Hex Keys, Screw Driver, spanners/sockets, crimping tool, multimeter silicone(gasket goo or similar). [ Drill, hacksaw, files ] only needed for bracket

 

 

 

WHAT TO DO?

This can be done in nearly the same way on ca/sr but i took photos at the time on my rb ill put the ca diagrams at the end with a finnished photo of frosty's setup

 

 

Firstly you will start with undoing the decorative cover in the middle of the block which is undone by some hex keys and a few bolts on the ignighter itself.

 

Then unplug the whole coilpack loom from the ignighter and coils so its completely out like this

loom.jpg

 

Unbolt the RB coipacks at the brackets so that the whole brackets come out like this

25_07_07_0329.jpg

 

This is how the standard coilpack is set up,

stdsetup.JPG

 

This is wat we want to achieve for each VN coilpack,

Vnsetup.JPG

 

Heres a pic of wat the VN coil looks like

coiltop.jpg coilbottom.jpg

 

Before making any cuts to the loom its self study it, note the black loop which is also included in cylinder 1 (this is for timing lights) and the earth wire ring, both the timing wire and ground are black, the rest are all colored, pink being the main color, when looking at the seven pin-plug with the locking clip towards you right to left is Ground, cylinder 6, cylinder 5, cylinder 4, cylinder 3, cylinder 2, cylinder 1. cylinder 1 is also connected to the timing wire. You will notice that, coming out of the three pin-plug is a slightly larger white wire this is the power wire to power the coil.

 

 

Get a mulitmeter and put one probe on the 7 pin plug end and then probe out each wire and mark it with(use some white tape and a nikko) and work out which cable ends where.

 

Take apart the whole loom so that u will have no more tape or corrigated tubeing then u will have a big group of wires then arrage all the pink wires together, all the white wires together, all the black wires together, u can cut out 3 of the white wires (only need 3 powers not 6 with the RB setup) same goes with ground but DO NOT CUT OUT black Cylinder 1 cable which is black. It should end up somthing like this,

loom2.jpg

 

Then u need to crimp the spade plugs onto the ends of the cables and shrink wrap over the top and these are the ends u should have 3 sets of this

cyl A&B, Power, Ground (power and ground can be in any order as long as each of the 3 coils have one of each)

The cyls are joined in the order of

1 goes with 6

2 goes with 5

3 goes with 4

(cyl 1 is closest to the front of the car and it works back)

 

Just test the loom with a multimeter to make sure this is achieved correctly

 

Now u have to make up your bracket to mount the coilpacks onto i went with a kinda difficult setup but its very solid and easy to replace/change parts, and makes it neater. This is how mines is set up

mounted.jpg

 

Mount ur bracket on the car, join up the new coilpack loom the the ignighter and power plug and put the spade lugs cyl a&b power into either left or right in each coil doesnt matter as it will work either way and wired should look somthing like this.

wired.jpg

 

Once thats done time to plug the sparkleads onto the cylinders remember to hook them up to the same as how each coil is done so it should be 1&6 on coil 1, 2&5 coil2, 3&4 coil3 for the RB.

plug_leads.JPG

 

NOW your ready to test it and WALLA if uve done it right ull have ur Rb20DET running with VN series 2 coilpacks, If it runs then use the silicone to seal ur plugs from water and also to help them stay in.

 

For a 4cyl eg CA it will be the same process but you will only need 2 coils and 4 leads

coil1 will have 1&4, coil 2 will have 2&3

4cyl.jpg

 

heres mine on and finnished

finnished.jpgcoilleads.jpgbc1.JPG

Heres some of frostys

*LOST PICS WILL POST UP ASAP*

 

Problems you might faced and how to fix them,

Spade plugs not staying in? Go shopping and take ur coil with u there are plugs that FIT perfectly in width and length (they should click when deep enough in) then use silicone to keep them in tight and sealed

 

Not running on all cylinders? check all plugs are in properly and firing order is right

 

WONT START? make sure everythign is grounded where it should be ESPECIALLY UR IGNIGHTER

 

Running very rough? make sure u have correct clys wired together and also right leads to the right coils

 

 

IF you have further questions feel free to PM me

 

Thanks guys and good luck HAPPY MODDING!

QUIGGA

 

Props to

http://www.dsd.co.nz/coils.htm (for the ideas)

Mr foster and Frosty for a big help and tools

side.jpg

Edited by Quigga

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WOW now thats a idea from out of left field....

 

good work man. im sure alot of ppl will do this to piss them stupid stock packs off

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NOT SOMETHING I NEED TO WORY ABOUT ATM BUT I ENJOYED READING THIS WOW VERY RESOURCEFULL A MAN AFTER MY OWN WILL:) KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK

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good work quigga

 

get the coil packs from repco as there around $150 for the set

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Fantastic write up... and up goes the price of second hand holden coilpacks hehe

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what sought of power do you think this setup would be good for?

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Thanks for the comments guys just sharing the love

 

what sought of power do you think this setup would be good for?

NO idea of real power becuase all the setups ive done this on are reasonably mild like under the 200kw mark but in theory theres no reason it shouldnt, especially using a aftermarket boosted ignighter or a aftermarket ecu that u can change dwell ect

 

 

any ideas on a sr20de motor?? lol

 

Hey ive got a few questions already about the sr ones, i cant say heres exactly what to do but the setup should be very similar, look at your loom, there should be earth wires, power wires, and one for timing, use a multimeter and test em out to see wats doing wat when, and the base setup will be the same as ca heres another quick diagram for the 4 cyl layout

 

4cyl.jpg

Edited by Quigga

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Not sure on how much difference it will make but you can purchase the same coils made my MSD, part number is MSD-8224. When I last purchased some they were around $80-85 each, but the price has since jumped.

pn8224.jpg

Edited by AirStrike

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just put some new leads, in redid the I/C pipes removed the P/S and put the coil cover back on

looking good for a work rig :quagmire:

S5002380.jpg

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had a few questions about doing this to the SR20det and since i seem to be the only one letting ppl see it can be done to a sr ill tell you what i did

now get the coil pack loom completely disconnected and run the 6 wire like this

 

LOOKING at the inside of the plug with the locking tab up the numbers are like this

 

1 2 3

4 5 6

 

 

1+5 join and connect to coil pack for cylinders 2&3 negative side

2+4+6 join and go to coil pack for cylinders 1&4 negative side

3 splits into 2 wires and goes to both positive sides of coil packs

 

i cant remember if the coilpacks have the + and neg labeled im pretty sure if your looking at them from the top of the with the plugs for the spark leads closest to you Negs on the LEFT

ok that should be all the info you need

PLZ use solder and not twist wires and tape, good idea to cover the lot with a flexi wire guard thing

 

let me know if i failed at the writeup but i went over everything twice

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Digging up an old thread a bit, but..

 

For those running anything more than stock boost, you might run into trouble if using stock ECU because of dwell

 

The vn packs need about 3ms or so to operate 100%

Nissan stock is about 1.4ms from memory

 

Things like nistune, PFC etc can all adjust dwell maps fine. But stock ECU may not have long enough dwell time for vn Bosch packs to put out maximum spark

 

Just something to be aware of. Not saying it'll effect you.. But it may cause some misfires especially at high revs & boost

 

Excellent budget upgrade compared to splitfires.

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are there any coilpacks you have found that have closer dwell?

 

cheers

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are there any coilpacks you have found that have closer dwell?

 

cheers

 

 

Hey guys, dumb question here: Does it matter whether it is a vn or vr or vs coilpack or does it have to be specifically vn s2? Any difference between the bunch?

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is there an easy/cheap way of getting around the dwell issue for a stock computer?

 

 

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Hey guys, dumb question here: Does it matter whether it is a vn or vr or vs coilpack or does it have to be specifically vn s2? Any difference between the bunch?

 

VN S1 are slightly different. Anything after VN S2 up to VS is essentially the same.

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i hear from a few ppl that actually work with those Holdens :ph34r: that s2 ones far more reliable. as s1's always blow

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