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Plumback BOV which+where?

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Well at Last I finally ordered a GKTECH intercooler kit(Tube+Fin) today B) and need to now purchase a decent Plumback Bov I have no idea what to buy?? I dont want to spend a fortune on one but I also dont want a rubbish Peice of shit that does'nt operate correctly.Theres so many out there for sale so thought I'd ask the advise of you lot, also unsure of best placement for it?, I think it might be better to try conceal the BOV: even though its Plumback the cops here in W.A are f**king ruthless *milkshakes*! and will just see it as an illegal BOV and issue a defect ,Yes I tried to search but for som,e reason the search feature on here was not working today? saying" database error"?............

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get a saber plumback. myself and another mate both have them. from memory- they are 60 bucks off here. GKTECH make em.

send them a PM mate:)

very efficent, does exactly whats needed. doesnt leak either.

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get a saber plumback. myself and another mate both have them. from memory- they are 60 bucks off here. GKTECH make em.

send them a PM mate:)

very efficent, does exactly whats needed. doesnt leak either.

I spoke to greg at GKTECH regarding BOV's and he said the ones they had were an HKS copy and they were having probs with them not functioning properly??? so I'm looking for something else: perhaps the saber one you have is different to the ones greg spoke of?............

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why not just run no bov?

 

its 1 less thing to get defected for.

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1) Get money,

2) Get a HKS SQV,

3) TIG the adapter plate onto the underside of the cold pipe just before the throttle body,

4) Attach BOV, run vacuum and boost lines to appropriate apparatus',

5) Be happy for all eternity.

 

Happy to answer any questions with regard to placement, installation, and or happiness. Any questions you have about the choice of BOV, will promptly be ignored. Because even Jesus ran one on his wagon.

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There are quite a few good ones you can purchase (this site has heaps of threads with many different opinions) but as far as positioning goes - IF you are going to run one (once again different ppl = different opinions) you want to get it as close to the throttle body as you can.

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well i run a go fast bits hybrid and it is awsome, never had anyproblems. They arn't too big and can change easily between atmo and plumb back.

Another good one is the turbosmart plumback bov in the sleeper series, if u want that sublte approach

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ive got the gfb mach1 on my s15. can be plumbacked too. havent had an issue yet. its also adjustable. $299rrp, got it for $249 of flying performance.

imo if you dont want anything stupid hapening i would stay away from cheap copies out there.

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mate you want something that is reasonably priced and fantastic quality look no further than the GFB or Turbosmart range

 

both make really good BOVs at decent prices

 

and both Turbosmart and GFB bov can be converted back and forth between atmospheric and plumback pretty easily

 

 

but my bet would be the GFB Stealth FX which is about $450 but that might be out of your price range

 

a number of the Turbosmart and GFB models actually bolt onto the factory position making installation a breeze

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just run no BOV

else if you really want one spend the money on a decent one like the HKS

or run the factory one till you got te money

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i got myself greddy type RS last time

you can get the plumb back adapter from nengun.com

very good bov, cant go wrong with that one

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why not just run no bov?

 

its 1 less thing to get defected for.

+1 Dont make a big difference having one or not unless you running like 20 pound boost

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but they sound fully sick lol

 

im running 10 - 12 pound am im still running stock bov on my s15.

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but they sound fully sick lol

 

im running 10 - 12 pound am im still running stock bov on my s15.

 

?

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i was getting really good boost response without a bov :D

in the tech section there is a write up about compressor surge and how having no bov effects spool up etc. found it interesting.

 

+1 to what shaky bones said. there are plenty of local turbosmart and GFB dealers out there. prices are pretty much fixed so shop around on the one you like best and you'll save a few $$$. imo its a bov at the end of the day, with a low price range spending over $400 on a bov that you can controll from inside your car is just blowing money out the window.

 

let us know what you choose ;)

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Well at Last I finally ordered a GKTECH intercooler kit(Tube+Fin) today B) and need to now purchase a decent Plumback Bov I have no idea what to buy?? I dont want to spend a fortune on one but I also dont want a rubbish Peice of shit that does'nt operate correctly.Theres so many out there for sale so thought I'd ask the advise of you lot, also unsure of best placement for it?, I think it might be better to try conceal the BOV: even though its Plumback the cops here in W.A are f**king ruthless *milkshakes*! and will just see it as an illegal BOV and issue a defect ,Yes I tried to search but for som,e reason the search feature on here was not working today? saying" database error"?............

how can u say that the cops in wa are ruthless? i just boosted 20psi straight past one and let me bov go off when going right past em, it was hell LOUD to, i was shitting it, but they never chased me, it was at lights to, so they could easily pursue to, but nothing, *i wasnt doing the right speed either*" ,eastern states are the worst, we have it good over here compared to over there.

 

*dw guys im only using what ive said to back up my statement* not to bragg or demonstrate breaking the law :ph34r: coz street racing and hooning is illegal!! ;)

 

but anyways back to ur situation, u could seal it off and run a bleed valve or get hold of a bov that u can set for bypass mode. i think theres a gfb one that u can set from inside the car..but i dont know much about it. perhaps google it. gl

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why not just run no bov?

 

its 1 less thing to get defected for.

+1 Dont make a big difference having one or not unless you running like 20 pound boost

yes if ur running 20 pound u will def need a bov, even with 7 pound boost u should have one, not having one will increase engine wear phenominally and create backpressure surge from the throttle body closing. as stated earlier they have a small section on backpressure surge etc in this section.

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why not just run no bov?

 

its 1 less thing to get defected for.

+1 Dont make a big difference having one or not unless you running like 20 pound boost

yes if ur running 20 pound u will def need a bov, even with 7 pound boost u should have one, not having one will increase engine wear phenominally and create backpressure surge from the throttle body closing. as stated earlier they have a small section on backpressure surge etc in this section.

 

Do u have any real facts to backup the statement about the phenominal increase in engine wear from running no bov?

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why not just run no bov?

 

its 1 less thing to get defected for.

+1 Dont make a big difference having one or not unless you running like 20 pound boost

yes if ur running 20 pound u will def need a bov, even with 7 pound boost u should have one, not having one will increase engine wear phenominally and create backpressure surge from the throttle body closing. as stated earlier they have a small section on backpressure surge etc in this section.

 

Do u have any real facts to backup the statement about the phenominal increase in engine wear from running no bov?

ahah maybe 'phenominal' was a over exagerating word, but it will certainly increase engine wear.

i read somewhere a little while ago that explained every pro and cons or having and not having a bov, and the diferent ways to vent the air pressure, but i cant remeber where it was.

on wikipedia they mention it very briefly, its in the very first sentence at the top of the page. sorry i cant find the page i got my info from.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve

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i dont think having or not having a bov will have any adverse effect on your engine - turbo maybe but not engine that is the first time ive herd of that

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yeh, ive read it sumwhere before to, but i cant work out how it damages engine, as uve said it can wear ur turbo yes, but its on that wikipedia page, in writing so im assuming its tru, i spose coz the circuit is not flowing thoroughly due to the air being traped and not vented?

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yeah i dont think it will have any crazy effects on the engine.

 

as far as i know its just on ongoing debate, best left unsaid to avoid endless arguments.

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Possibly has engine wear due to the exhaust gases being interfered with the back spinning of the turbine wheel, causing a pressure build up of exhaust gases and hence engine load and back fire. Don't think it would be a substantial amount to do any real damage though but avoiding that is a good idea. So i guess if your a reliability junky, get a bov to reduce engine and turbo wear.

 

In saying that autobarn sell Drift bov's that are atmo and plumb back. They are pretty good bov's and cost my mate around 150-200 bucks, alot cheaper than the turbosmart range.

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yeh, ive read it sumwhere before to, but i cant work out how it damages engine, as uve said it can wear ur turbo yes, but its on that wikipedia page, in writing so im assuming its tru, i spose coz the circuit is not flowing thoroughly due to the air being traped and not vented?

 

That's right, because everything we read on wikipedia is true. <_>

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yeh, ive read it sumwhere before to, but i cant work out how it damages engine, as uve said it can wear ur turbo yes, but its on that wikipedia page, in writing so im assuming its tru, i spose coz the circuit is not flowing thoroughly due to the air being traped and not vented?

 

That's right, because everything we read on wikipedia is true. <_>

yeh tru, but some of the things on there are real facts and also some are just bogus, but if u can prove otherwise im going with the facts. :P

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yeh, ive read it sumwhere before to, but i cant work out how it damages engine, as uve said it can wear ur turbo yes, but its on that wikipedia page, in writing so im assuming its tru, i spose coz the circuit is not flowing thoroughly due to the air being traped and not vented?

 

That's right, because everything we read on wikipedia is true. <_>

 

+1

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Possibly has engine wear due to the exhaust gases being interfered with the back spinning of the turbine wheel, causing a pressure build up of exhaust gases and hence engine load and back fire. Don't think it would be a substantial amount to do any real damage though but avoiding that is a good idea. So i guess if your a reliability junky, get a bov to reduce engine and turbo wear.

 

In saying that autobarn sell Drift bov's that are atmo and plumb back. They are pretty good bov's and cost my mate around 150-200 bucks, alot cheaper than the turbosmart range.

um.... lol?

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so if you run an atmo bov, does the computer tell the injecotrs to put the wrong amount of fuelk in or what? are all you guys with atmo bovs having no problem with this?

 

I hate bovs, but will get one when i buy a new turbo just so i dont wreck the turbo, and was assuming id have to make it polumb back because i thought atmo bovs made the car run shit because of the wrong amount of air measured etc. Anyone got some enlightenment

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What happens is the AFM measures the amount of air that passes it. It gets compressed (by the turbo), and enters the engine with the appropriate amount of fuel as governed by the ECU with the data from the AFM. However, if you close the thottle body that air gets vented to atmosphere (with an atmo BOV). But that air has already been measured as going into the motor, and the fuel's been added also. So when you vent with an atmo BOV this causes it to run rich for a split second. Some of this fuel will then proceed to to remain unburned, combustion will still be in action when the exhuast valve opens. Hence the backfire you sometimes get.

 

To prevent this, you must feed the engine correct figures, by keeping all measured amounts in-system. This means plumbing your BOV back in between the AFM and turbo. That way, all air that has passed the AFM stays in-system behind the AFM. In turn feeding the ECU the right data, and in turn adding the correct amount of fuel to the actual air entering the engine. This will cause a relatively stable A:F ratio regardless of BOV venting or what have you, so no more rich running and no more backfires.

 

I can forsee one other question that will arise with this explanation as I understand it. But I'll wait for it to be asked. :P

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see my signature... buy my S15 stock BOV, it plumbs back :D that's all you need.

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