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LoGiKBoMb

Ready 2 Paint !

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Hey all,

 

Ive taken ages to get the car primed up and its all a learning curve for myself. Ive made the effort and gone and purchased everything (compressor/guns/primer/mask n saftey gear etc etc) to do it myself and now im ready to paint it up. Few questions I have that may be answered on the forums by other DIY guys or professional painters are...(its going to be done in 2Pak/cars primed and guide coated back with 800grit so its nice and smooth =) )

 

1/ Im looking at a metallic colour BUT will metallic show up more "imperfections" then a solid flat colour? Or it dont matter!!??

2/ What colours shows or hides imperfections best? IE does white hide, and black show more imperfections???

3/ Must I sand back the final paint job with 2000grit then a buff? Or leave it as is and buff.....

4/ Whats the best PSI setup for colour? I notice with my gun setup that ON the compressor i set it to say 60psi set the gun to 40psi but then i PULL the trigger it drops to say 30PSI. Is this correct, or should it be when i pull the trigger and paint is comming out it is set at 40psi exactly....

 

I may have more questions later that come to mind. So far for now just need advice from anyone who knows more then me.

The whole Priming the car side was a good learning curve, fun n enduring haha.

 

Thanks Heaps

Luke

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rub it back with 1000/1500 before you put any color on,if you have just rubbed the primer with 800 once you put colour on scratches will show up,you are wet rubbing right? with a block?

 

1.metallic will show up more imperfections also if you do the base too dry the mettalic will look like a zebra,if you do it to wet the mettalic will move and look poo aswell,do a solid red or white for your first time,

 

2.black is the hardest imo because you have to get the clear really glossy off the gun because blacks shows swirls alot when its buffed,white would be easiest to hide imperfections but is sometimes difficult to clear because the white hides your overlap,a red would be easy,

 

3.yes BLOCK your clear back with 1500/2000 depends how much de-nibbing you need to do then buff it with a foam pad not a lambs wool one,

 

4.thats a hard one to answer what gun do you have and what compressor hp? try having it set up just a bit under fan so its not fully fanned out,this is kinda hard to expalin over a forum,there will be a knob on the gun that makes the trigger harder and softer to pull back.put it on the softest setting but only pull back half way when your spraying,

 

do you understand about overlapping ect?

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im in the same boat man, go bright white easy lol. Make your car stand out with wheels :)

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Great post 4dr1ft, very informative

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Great post 4dr1ft, very informative

 

cheers mate,makes it worth it.

 

Can't go past yellow, but I am bias.

 

yeah im also a fan of yellow.with white rims look tuff

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1. buy some spray cans

2. spray over normal paint

3. try and straighten dents by kicking it around the dent

4. if car gets dirty, dont wash it, just spray it again with a can you keep in the glovebox to keep it schmiko

 

thanks for reading mariomans guide to painting your car.

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1. buy some spray cans

2. spray over normal paint

3. try and straighten dents by kicking it around the dent

4. if car gets dirty, dont wash it, just spray it again with a can you keep in the glovebox to keep it schmiko

 

thanks for reading mariomans guide to painting your car.

I actually do this with my daily, makes life easy knowing that id doesnt matter if some one keys a dick in your car.

 

Metalic is only harder becasue your panels will look different if your crap or if you paint it on different days.

It also gets blemishes in the paint easier if not mixed

 

Sorry to say this, but if its your first car its gonna look shit. It will take 3 or 4 cars before you can get it to go nicely

 

And if your doing 2k and have no heated booth, you will get runs. PERIOD

 

At least with acrylic you can buff runs and orange peel out, also drie sin an hour so if your first 3 coats are looking shit, you can rub it back a little and start again. Also helps when youve left dents and scratches in it

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he is doing direct gloss 2pak so sanding runs is not a huge deal,if he was doing it cob getting runs in the colour is nearly impossible unless your a complete mook,it clear that gets the runs,and most of them can be sanded out and buffed,providing there not massive sagging runs,

you can paint 2pak out of a heated booth and not get runs,

and it takes ALOT more practice than 3-4 cars to get a really good job,

but its his car and he wants to learn,weve been pm'ing and im giving as much advice as i can,

i think it should come out ok and im interested to see how it all finishes up,

 

bugger acrylic thats 1900 styles,acrylic is no were near as nice as 2pak and it fades ALOT faster,

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