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bry

Is there something wrong with my setup?

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Thanks toffy: we run 2 mm out each side on R32 so its 4 mm in total.Now we got similar 2mm and 2.2mm so total is 4.2 out on rear with 333 hp on rears and run 16" we will see on the track.

But I know one Drift Australia competitor and he runs 18 mm !!!!! yes 18 mm out on rear in total .

Its hard on tires I know but any drift set up is hard on tires anyway , and he chewed them a lot.

 

Example OPTION ONE garage rear set up left rear in right rear out .Dont know how much but got one car they did drift set up and its like this and guy say to me they do all cars like this.Make sense to me if its opposite , will be good for QR .

 

Man You start with rear 0 and then start to play.You can buy own wheel alignment tools , they arent expensive or make one or just string like they do in Rally and play out in whatever is good to feel for your hand and dont care who say so .You obviously consider all advices , but adjust to your hand your car .And its need a lot of practise.

Honestly anyone ever saw on QR or somewhere else somebody play with set up?Changing shocks etc etc?Changing tires pressure / sometime I did see / otherwise just drive car all year a long even without knowing what wheel alignment is on the car .

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toe in or out settings should depend on the length of the traction arm and how much squat your springs give.

Set your toe on a wheel alignment machine and then lower the rear of the car (get people to sit in the boot or take out the springs and jack it up and down)

I have mine so that it has 0 toe static and as the suspension drops it increases to 2mm in each side. Next time I want to try and make it gain less toe by changing the traction arm length or if I cant get that adjustment I was going to try a small amount of toe out instead

 

Sorry if im off tangent here, but i just want to know exactly the effects of the traction arm. So pretty much, they change the the 'rate of change of the toe' OR they change the range of toe when the cars under squat? Hope i worded that right...

So obviously, when the car squats, the wheels are reaching toe out. When the traction arm is extended, this would increase the total toe out under squat wouldnt it? And when traction arm is shortened, it would decrease the amount of total toe out under squat, so it would retain pretty much or close to the static settings of the toe?

 

Haha ive probably answered my own question after thinking about it, but this topics has always puzzled me. So to my understanding, a traction arm changes the dynamics of the car rather than static (which is what we're mostly talking about in this topic..).

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correct on all of the above. There is heaps that changes all of it so there is no correct answer for what length to make the arm (like height, camber etc). Also make sure you swing the suspension through its travel after you set it to make sure it doesnt bind and bend/break an arm

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correct on all of the above. There is heaps that changes all of it so there is no correct answer for what length to make the arm (like height, camber etc). Also make sure you swing the suspension through its travel after you set it to make sure it doesnt bind and bend/break an arm

 

How do u make sure that it doesnt bind/bend/break an arm? Listen for noises or what? lol. For an all round setup is it best to just extend it a little bit so that there arent any massive stresses in the arms so it doesnt break?

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So this has gone way off topic. Had another drift day at winton, added front + rear strut braces, changed alignment to :

 

Front:

Little bit toe out

7.5 castor

-3 camber (didnt change)

 

Rear

-1.75 camber (didnt change)

-0ish toe

 

It helped a bit but still found that it felt as if front was rolling.. which showed on my front tyres after I came back to the pits. We ended up changing my front swaybar from soft to middle (and left rear on hard) and holy shit! The difference was amazing, car handled so much better afterwards!

 

Problem solved :D

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I personally think you should run 0 toe all around, well this is what I done while learning in a s14 and I never had a problem.

 

Make sure your rack is centred.

It is easier to realign the toe when you do knock it out on the track. Or after spinning out a few times.

And your car will go faster. Believe it or not lol

 

 

You still have a fair bit to learn, try some more settings towards what a track racer would and you might find you can go quicker again.

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I personally think you should run 0 toe all around, well this is what I done while learning in a s14 and I never had a problem.

 

Make sure your rack is centred.

It is easier to realign the toe when you do knock it out on the track. Or after spinning out a few times.

And your car will go faster. Believe it or not lol

 

 

You still have a fair bit to learn, try some more settings towards what a track racer would and you might find you can go quicker again.

 

In a straight line ull go quicker, but not on a racetrack. But can be dangerous to drive if ur a noob, coz it will step out easier. I like to kick it out easier, so my car has very little toe in. Ive got 1mm total toe in, and feels super nice and smooth when drifting. Each to their own and depends on the car as well.

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