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northsideimports

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Very to both

You can actually buy off the shelf quads from a place in melbourne

 

But then you need a comp that can run maf like a haltec + tune

Id say budjet 4-5K

 

Can't run a MAF with the EFI Hardware ones. You could do a MAP, but I'd just do what I've got on my 205Gti and use TPS only. Work fine and means you can put really lumpy cams in! Any real aftermarket ECU will do it.

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I dare say you were correct :lol:

 

Ment MAP, or other way. Pretty much cant run a stock ecu so it blows the budget out alot

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Nice man. Going to convert to MAP, or keep running an AFM?

 

Will go turmpets so none of this silly afm crap haha

 

Map or tps.. still reading up.

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I am at the stage where I am contemplating on where I am going with my car...

 

- N/A sr20

- N/A RB

- SR20DET

- RB25DET

 

.....

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if you can go turbo go turbo...

 

im only spending money on my na rb cause ive still got 1.5 years till blacks..

but come that time everything else in/on the car is set up for a turbo motor to be dropped in.

 

plus when the time comes to sell the na itb rb it hopefully will be popular.

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I think the first thing I need to do is get a manual conversion, as I haven't been able to gauge the N/A's potential with the automatic....

However, I only want to spend money once, hence thinking ahead for motor options....

I have no need for crazy power, so turbo options are around stock levels - however RB comes to consideration due to the sound of the SR20...

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Keep what you have. NA SR20 is fine.

 

I can occasionally skid 3rd in the dry on the right corner. 2nd no worries. Just need to learn how to make the most out of it.

 

 

Save the 4 grand or whatever you'll spend on an RB conversion, spend it on track time and tires. Or a cheap turbo conversion, with like 2 grand left for track/tires...

 

 

 

I've been wondering about putting a S15 6spd in mine, for closer ratios. Couple that with changing my diff gears to a 4.4 set, should sit low 3k on freeway, wayyy closer ratios. Current gap between 1st,2nd,3rd is pretty ridiculous with a gutless car.

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i'd just go 4.3 or 4.6 and keep the 5 speed.

 

i have 3.7 atm :lol: 3rd hates life

Edited by blingcommander

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what you guys think of 264deg with 12.06mm lift bc cams in a sr20de?

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Yeah dude I ran a calculator and I think mine is 3.5 :[

 

autech%20gear%20ratio.jpg

 

Ran a calculator based on those ratios, current 2nd tops out at about 105, with the 6spd and a 4.4 it'd top out at about 80.... could do 3rd all day haha.

 

Might just go a 4.something rear to start off with, if I still need the close ratio then go the 6spd. Beauty is people don't want 6spds, so I can sell the 5 and make most of it back. Already have a tailshaft to suit, would just need to machine bellhousing and sort out speedo.

Edited by thriller

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^ do you have lightened flywheel thriller, 2nd gear dumps seem to just burn clutch for me, also are you doing 2nd gear at higher speeds (70+) or able to kick it out 50-60ish? How is your car set up? no front sway bar? n/a drifting seems more fun to me for now so if I can turn mine into a reliable slider I will consider staying n/a

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Might just go a 4.something rear to start off with, if I still need the close ratio then go the 6spd. Beauty is people don't want 6spds, so I can sell the 5 and make most of it back. Already have a tailshaft to suit, would just need to machine bellhousing and sort out speedo.

if your going 6 speed a 4.3 or 4.6 will be best option just have to watc out cause wrong clutch choice or excesive clutch kicking will fail a 6 speed

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Don't worry bout 6 speed just get a 4.3 2way (or welded 4.3 r180 if you're poor like me :P ) and run a lower rolling diameter tyre.

 

You have to run the car low to stop it looking silly but I've found 205/45/16s are a good compromise for me between low rolling diameter and still having some semblance of ground clearance

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I'll have to bang up a vid somewhere of the ol' CAde throwing down. It's not as bad as you'd think :lol:

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Seems like I;m keeping it NA....

Not interested in skids or trackdays though :thumbsup:

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na

 

higher tyre pressure

lower diameter

quicker diff ratio

locked diff

good steering response

clutch kicks

light as possible

quick as possible

 

rah rah

 

All depends how big your balls are for bigger slides but short zippy tracks or wet pans should have no worries with half that list..

IMO

 

 

 

Cushion button clutch is being picked up tommoro for mine, along with lightned flywheel.

should make for some fun.

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Pheonix, I can beat on second pretty hard and it holds fine, I think I put a vid up a few pages back of driving. I can kick it out anywhere from like 20 to 80 in 2nd. 50/60 is sweet spot, any lower and I struggle to hold it. I think it's all about weight transfer at higher speeds. I find starting the drift in 3rd, then downshift when you run out of steam, seems to work for me well enough. Only for 100k ish corners...

 

my setup is as follows:

 

Driveline:

-Exedy HD turbo clutch / standard flywheel (I did manual conversion so put bigger turbo clutch bits in)

-3.5? 2-way KAAZ.

 

Susp etc:

-tein HE coilies

-R32 GTR rear swaybar

-Unlinked front swaybar

-Castor arms

-Steering rack spacers (this is good/cheap).

 

Inside:

-Bucket seat

-330mm steering wheel pretty much in my chest

-obligatory hanny button

 

Wheel alignment (from memory...):

Front camber: 2 deg each side?

Front toe: few mm of toe out

Castor: 8 deg/mm/whatever it's measured in

Rear camber: 3 deg

Rear toe: 1mm toe out each side

 

 

Of the above, if I had to pick the bare essentials

-Good clutch

-Locker diff

-Coilies

-Thick rear swaybar. Experiment with unlinking the front. I like it, others might not.

-Bucket seat

-Rear toe out.

 

Currently tun 215/17 rears on a 9".

 

 

Andrew, I think I'll do that for now... Just need to find the right gear set and swap. Since my diff is super quiet and I got it cheap.

 

Good point on tires and rolling diameter. I want to downsize to 15/16 stagger for cool wheels/cheap tires/ extra clearance when I go for a new knuckle setup.

 

 

 

Driftmatt:

High pressure chews tires real hard I find. Next skid day I want to try much lower pressures, like high 20's instead of mid 40's...

 

 

But yeah pheonix, don't go turbo until you've got a good hang of things, I think is generally a smart choice. It will save you f**k tonnes of money on tires, repairs,etc. And be more reliable than a half-assed turbo setup, and if you go turbo with stock everything but don't have a very good grasp of car control, all you'll do is fast rolling burnouts and just spin out heaps...

 

It was kinda hard to start with, and I just practiced a shitload whenever it rained, but I feel like I'm starting to make the most of an n/a car. It's quite rewarding when you nail it with 1/2 the power of some other guys :)

Edited by thriller

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true but will help spin tyres eaiser is what im trying to say,

 

people just get caught up with the 'i need power to drift'

well thats what i reckon anyway lol

 

 

could slide my 4k auto ke70 ffs, had about as much power as your modern lawn mower aha

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I reckon 3.9 is probably the lowest ratio diff you could have, don't understand why someone would bother with putting a 2way centre in one though.

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