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m00nie

S15 passenger window switch

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Ok now my S15 passenger window switch has decided it doesn't want to go up anymore. It still goes down and I can wind it up from the drivers side, but that's it. I've pulled the door trim off and had a look at all the wires but they look fine and all connected. Fuses look fine too.

 

Any idea why this would be?

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Yeah pulled it out of the door and had a fiddle. Felt solid and no rattles. All clean terminals etc.

Still works down but not up. :S

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do you know how to test with a multimeter?

because you could test to see whether you're getting power to the motor when you flick the switch

 

or tap off an active wire and try to manual drive the window up

that will eliminate the motor

it could be broken connection somewhere, even if you cant see it

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The issue is almost certainly one of the internal contacts in the switch.

I've had this happen to 4 diffferent Jap cars, and the solution is always the same.

 

To fix, I recommend doing the following:

1. Remove the passenger switch from the trim housing

2. Use a wide flat-head jewellers screwdriver to prise off the switch rocker (be gentle, the plastic will break if you're too rough with it)

Should the rocker be fixed, separate the bottom half of the switch housing from the top (designs vary)

3. Inside there will be at least two bent strips of copper, with round bulges at the end. These are the main switch contacts.

4. Get some steel wool and carefully scrape off any green or black material. At least one contact will be black, given your problem.

It doesn't matter if it looks scuffed once finished, or if it looks more silver than copper.

5. Reassemble the unit, taking special care to align the contact arms, any springs or ball bearings correctly

 

Edit: If the corrosion returns, perhaps often, adding a light coating of solder over the contact can fix this. Obviously this isn't a good idea for contacts that would get hot enough for the solder to melt, but in many cases it promotes good electrical conductivity.

 

Essentially, the reason this happens is because there is more physical resistance when winding up (gravity pulls down on the window), and subsequently the electric motor has to work much harder.

The harder it works, the more current it draws and minor arcing will scorch the contact over time.

Eventually, the contact will be electrically insulated... and the window will no longer go up.

Edited by pmod

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I'll be trying that. Thank you very much

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No probs.

 

Let us know how you go with it! :-)

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Well I followed the above process and it works a treat. Just used a flat head screwdriver to scratch the black/burnt end of the terminals. Only thing is the switch stays in each position now.

But worked overall so thank you very much

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Yea man i had this problem with mine tooo!!!

I ended up buying a new switch as i fixed it but the switch got stuck in the positions...

You have lost a little ball from the spring when u pulled it apart.... :(

 

Thats what happened to me when i went through it this... just bite the bullet and pay 50$ for a new switch! :)

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I have both ballbearings and both rockers still in place. As well as both springs in the top of the white cover. From what I can see, all parts are there. Or have I lost something?

It doesn't get stuck too bad. Just needs the slightest tap to go back to the neutral position.

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Sweet thanks for the tip.

 

I have exactly the same problem.

 

I'll give it a shot the next weekend round.

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Nah its all there mate.. Weird.. Mine only got stuck when i lost a ball bearing. :S

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I'm thinking it might not be greased enough or something dirtwise got caught in the grease on the long arm of the black lever.

 

Natenate- just becareful when you pop the black lever/top of switch of as it likes to fly off. Might be where something went wrong on my attempt

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You could be right about the need for more grease... especially if you cleaned dust/dirt/grease off the parts you removed.

Remember, if you haven't lost anything, it can almost certainly be returned to it's previous state.

 

Try this:

 

1. Buy some electrical contact grease. Don't use normal grease! :-)

Jaycar electronics sell it for 10 bucks, but you may find it cheaper elsewhere - http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NA1034&keywords=grease&form=KEYWORD

 

2. Disassemble the switch again... I'd personally do so over a white bowl or tray sitting on the ground.

Don't do it over concrete, as little parts seem to disappear. Made that mistake a few times myself!

 

3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the following parts (be sparing, not much is needed):

- Ball bearings

- Springs

- Spring mount points on the rocker

- Contact tips

- Switch rocker pivot points (plastic pins out the sides)

 

4. Reassemble, plug in and test

 

5. If it still sticks, confirm that the arms aren't around the wrong way:

- Try a few positions for the rocker arms

- If there are a pair of identical parts, swap their locations

- Reverse the external plastic rocker if possible

 

 

Note:

Mechanical switch components may look symmetrical, but sometimes have a preferred direction of orientation. This can be due to design or simply wear-and-tear. If bits fell out when you pulled the switch apart, your reassembly may not be entirely correct.

 

I personally found power window adjustment d-pads to be the worse in this regard.

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shit i have the same problem, just never got around to fixing it

 

Thanks :thumbsup:

Edited by 200SXEE

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I was the same until my gf kept giving me the shits that she wanted the window up haha.

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im going through the same problem, jus took the switch off, now i have to remove the white bit from the black bit of the switch to get to the copper area, i see on both sides there are two push down clips, but they're so hard to push out , how do i get around this?

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I just got 2 thin/small screwdrivers and put one under each side to lever the black casing off. Just be careful as is pretty fragile.

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aite thanks, wish me luck. owned 2 s15's and they all have these window problems

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hey guys i jus opened mined up , the problem is wen i opened it up the balls went flying and i dnt know where the balls go or which way the position of the copper end goes. please help. does the metal balls sit beneath the copper wire or above it and on which side much appreciated

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The 2 copper plates sit 'top tail' to each other. The fatter end goes on the right side (flip the white thing around and put the second one with the fat end with the downward curve on the right again).

the shape of little rockers are very similar to the approximate sign " ~ "

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With the ball bearings, they sit in the little craddle on the rocker (in the centre, one on each). The tricky bit is trying to keep them level under the springs whilst putting the white cover back on.

 

I almost lost mine. Found them on my shirt thankfully

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hey guys i jus opened mined up , the problem is wen i opened it up the balls went flying and i dnt know where the balls go or which way the position of the copper end goes. please help. does the metal balls sit beneath the copper wire or above it and on which side much appreciated

 

 

In the event that you lose the ball bearings or springs, try scavenging some from other power window switches.

I've noticed a lot of internal similarity between switches, so a bit of trial and error should find you the right parts.

Remember, if the switch pops forwards and backwards like it should, then you probably have the right bearings and springs.

 

Unoffical comment: Self-serve wrecking yards are a good place to start cracking switches and checking stuff out (e.g. Pick 'n Pay Less if your in NSW).

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Ok, I have consolidated both my info and young-gun's into a how-to style guide.

If there's something missing, or requires more explanation, feel free to let me know.

 

Enjoy!

 

PMOD'S GENERIC GUIDE TO FIXING A FAULTY POWER WINDOW SWITCH

 

 

PROBLEM:

Power window switch doesn't wind up, but winds down just fine.

The reverse could also be true, whereby the window goes up, but not down.

 

 

CAUSE:

The issue is almost certainly one of the internal contacts in the switch. I've had this happen to 4 diffferent Jap cars, and the solution is always the same.

In some cases, the reason this happens is because there is more physical resistance when winding up (gravity pulls down on the window), and subsequently the electric motor has to work much harder.

The harder it works, the more current it draws and minor arcing will scorch the contact over time. Eventually, the contact will be electrically insulated... and the window will no longer go up.

In other cases, the copper corrodes to the point at which it's no longer electrically conductive.

 

TOOLS NEEDED:

1. A couple of flat-bladed jeweler's screwdrivers

2. Electrical contact grease. Don't use normal grease! :-)

Jaycar electronics sell it for 10 bucks, but you may find it cheaper elsewhere - http://www1.jaycar.c...se&form=KEYWORD

3. Some steel wool or 320 grit aluminium oxide abrasive paper (a.k.a wet and dry)

4. A wite cloth/dropsheet/bowl, just so small parts don't disappear on the ground

 

 

SOLUTION:

The following steps should apply to most power window switches, albeit there may be some minor differences in design:

 

1. Remove the passenger switch from the trim housing

 

2. Position the switch over the dropsheet/bowl

 

3. Use a wide flat-head jewellers screwdriver to prise off the switch rocker. Some switches require the bottom half of the switch housing to be separated from the top.

WARNING 1: The plastic will break if you're too rough with it, so BE GENTLE!

WARNING 2: There are springs inside. Be careful they don't fly off into the great unknown!

NOTE 1: Study the alignment of the contact strips, springs and ballbearings before tearing it apart. Taking a photo can prove helpful.

 

4. Inside there will be at least two bent strips of copper, with round bulges at the end. These are the main switch contacts.

 

5. Get some steel wool/wet-and-dry and carefully scrape off any green or black material. At least one contact will be black, however clean any with carbon or corrosion.

NOTE 1: It doesn't matter if it looks scuffed once finished, or if it looks more silver than copper.

NOTE 2: If the corrosion returns, perhaps often, adding a light coating of solder over the contact can fix this. This won't help contacts on devices that get really hot.

 

6. Carefully clean off any old dirt, grease or dust. Don't wash the parts - if you do, then dry them out thoroughly.

 

7. Apply a thin layer of grease to the following parts (be sparing, not much is needed):

- Ball bearings

- Springs

- Spring mount points on the rocker

- Contact tips

- Switch rocker pivot points (plastic pins out the sides)

 

8. Reassemble the unit, taking special care to align the contact arms, any springs or ball bearings correctly

 

9. If the switch sticks when depressed, confirm that the arms aren't around the wrong way:

- Try a few positions for the rocker arms

- If there are a pair of identical parts, swap their locations

- Reverse the external plastic rocker if possible

NOTE 1: Mechanical switch components may look symmetrical, but sometimes have a preferred direction of orientation.

NOTE 2: If bits fell out when you pulled the switch apart, your reassembly may not be entirely correct.

 

 

WHAT IF I LOSE OR BREAK PARTS FROM THE SWITCH?

In the event that you lose the ball bearings or springs, try scavenging some from other power window switches.

I've noticed a lot of internal similarity between switches, so a bit of trial and error should find you the right parts.

Remember, if the switch pops forwards and backwards like it should, then you probably have the right bearings and springs.

 

Unoffical comment: Self-serve wrecking yards are a good place to start disassembling switches and testing what works (e.g. Pick 'n Pay Less in Blacktown, NSW).

 

 

CONTACT ALIGNMENT OF AN S15 SILVIA SWITCH

In an S15 Silvia switch:

- The 2 copper contact strips sit 'top tail' to each other.

- The fatter end of the contact goes on the right side (flip the white thing around and put the second one - with the fat end with the downward curve - on the right).

- The ball bearings sit in the little cradle on the rocker (in the centre, one on each)

Edited by pmod

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Hey guys abit of a bump. I have got the same problem with the power windows on my s15 cept its with the driver side switch/window. Although all the other switches work ie lock switch, lock window switch, mirror switch and LHD side window switch. Its just the switch for the driver side that doesnt work.

 

If I follow the steps above and it still doesnt work what else could the problem be? Motor? I read somewhere it could be the amp too (from this site http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/repairing-power-window-amp.html)

 

Someone mentioned above about using a multimeter to check if the motor is still working. Can anyone explain this? Sorry for the newb question.

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this happen to my 1st s15 i had, turns out that everything was fine. wat happen was was i wound my window all the way down and it fell out of tooth, so it wouldnt wind back up anymore. do a light test to see if there is power or a multimeter test. if so then that could be the problem. otherwise the power window motor is dead and needs replacing

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this happen to my 1st s15 i had, turns out that everything was fine. wat happen was was i wound my window all the way down and it fell out of tooth, so it wouldnt wind back up anymore. do a light test to see if there is power or a multimeter test. if so then that could be the problem. otherwise the power window motor is dead and needs replacing

 

What do you mean by that? - "fell out of tooth".

 

A few days before my power window died. The power window was already acting up as in it was struggling to go up or down - felt like it the window was rubbing against something or getting caught on something.

 

Then a few days later it finally died on me. I just parked my car at the shops then when I went to wind my window up it wouldn't move. Pretty much shat myself at that point as I was already running late for work. However, with my car the alarm is set so that when the alarm sets it will shut all the windows on the car each time. When this happened it closed my driver side window but thats it, it hasnt worked since then.

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the power window runs up and down a half a circle disc with teeth on it, similar to the round disc on the bike where the chain goes. wat happen to mine was it fell out of the tooth and got jammed and wouldnt go up. but for urs it seems that the motor maybe dead or struggling due to all the clunk that builds up from the grease and dirt during the years and slowly increases friction. best chance is do a power test first , then if there is power, remove ur power window motor and give it a good clean and 12volt test to see if it winds up and down.

 

 

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Sorry for the bump... but thought it would be a good idea to post how I fixed my driver side power window (useful for others?). As it turns out, it wasn't the switch, it was a new motor.

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You could be right about the need for more grease... especially if you cleaned dust/dirt/grease off the parts you removed.

Remember, if you haven't lost anything, it can almost certainly be returned to it's previous state.

 

Try this:

 

1. Buy some electrical contact grease. Don't use normal grease! :-)

Jaycar electronics sell it for 10 bucks, but you may find it cheaper elsewhere - http://www1.jaycar.c...se&form=KEYWORD

 

2. Disassemble the switch again... I'd personally do so over a white bowl or tray sitting on the ground.

Don't do it over concrete, as little parts seem to disappear. Made that mistake a few times myself!

 

3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the following parts (be sparing, not much is needed):

- Ball bearings

- Springs

- Spring mount points on the rocker

- Contact tips

- Switch rocker pivot points (plastic pins out the sides)

 

4. Reassemble, plug in and test

 

5. If it still sticks, confirm that the arms aren't around the wrong way:

- Try a few positions for the rocker arms

- If there are a pair of identical parts, swap their locations

- Reverse the external plastic rocker if possible

 

 

Note:

Mechanical switch components may look symmetrical, but sometimes have a preferred direction of orientation. This can be due to design or simply wear-and-tear. If bits fell out when you pulled the switch apart, your reassembly may not be entirely correct.

 

I personally found power window adjustment d-pads to be the worse in this regard.

 

Top post man, saved my ass today when I was pulling my switch apart. Unfortunately I'd just bought a new motor expecting it to be that but oh well, could have been worse. Cheers.

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