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scooby36

Option1Garage / Signature Performance OUTLAW Sil80 Racecar

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Thats it, reading this thread has convinced me that Ive spent way to much money on building my car and not enough time behind the wheel. Gonna scrap the next skid pan day and spend those funds on the 8th Dec at Lakeside...

 

From what you guys have done and the great laptimes (and fun) you guys are having, Im majorly missing out...Im gonna go out out put myself through a pace or two...

 

Massive kudos to you man, great reading for sure.

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hellyea mate! great stuff, nothing compares to chipping away finding the limits of yourself and your car..

 

then once youre fast and have a handle on how the car moves around and tuning its balance to suit your style, come racing with us :D

Absolutely the most intense, addictive and fun form of competition you can have in a car like this.

 

Have just ordered Hawk pads for me and Sam, as well as an 044 pump, will see how my car reacts to e85 in its current form

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GGA1a4nyVs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXkWUCBoe4k

Edited by scooby36

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Which Hawk pads did you go for?

 

You'll love E85, wont ever go back! Massive midrange increases and good top end! Just bring plenty of it with you :)

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Keen to hear what type of hawk pads you got as well and how they go.

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pads are the dtc60, apparently dont start working till at least 200deg haha. see if theyre usable on the street at all.

 

yes excited for e85, apparently i need to take care of lots of blowby, with a big catchcan that returns to the sump

will hopefully give me that little bit of power + torque that i need plus keep the sucker cool, two birds one stone !

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I'm no tech expert, but what goes into my catch can, I certainly do not want going back into my sump!!! The E85 leaves a watery and slightly milky liquid in the catch can, that stuff should not go back through the motor. Maybe think about how it can be set-up without recirculating.

 

Yes besides the above, plenty of positives by going to E85.

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I've used the Dtc 60's. They aren't too bad. I found they were completely fine when they're cold and certainly don't overheat on the track. The only two downsides that turned me off them was they weren't very modular (they are actually designed for heavy cars) and the brake dust stained my volks permanently which I wasn't too happy about!

 

I've found the endless PC35's to be way better in every respect. Unfortunately you pay for it though....

 

Also, with the catch can and E85, don't plumb it back into the sump. You'll find with E85 you will get a lot more in your catch can but it isn't oil, its this clear liquid that appears to be a combination of water (condensation) and E85. SO you really don't want that water and E85 mixing with your oil.

 

Make sure you use an alcohol compliant oil, particularly if the cars going to sit their for weeks between being driven with no oil change. If you're changing it before every race meeting it doesn't matter about whether it alcohol compliant or not.

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I've used the Dtc 60's. They aren't too bad. I found they were completely fine when they're cold and certainly don't overheat on the track. The only two downsides that turned me off them was they weren't very modular (they are actually designed for heavy cars) and the brake dust stained my volks permanently which I wasn't too happy about! I've found the endless PC35's to be way better in every respect. Unfortunately you pay for it though.... Also, with the catch can and E85, don't plumb it back into the sump. You'll find with E85 you will get a lot more in your catch can but it isn't oil, its this clear liquid that appears to be a combination of water (condensation) and E85. SO you really don't want that water and E85 mixing with your oil. Make sure you use an alcohol compliant oil, particularly if the cars going to sit their for weeks between being driven with no oil change. If you're changing it before every race meeting it doesn't matter about whether it alcohol compliant or not.

 

*nods. definitely dump it before each day*

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Any oil suggestions to use with e85 then?

I don't usually change it after every meeting. Only every 3 or so.

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If your changing it often (ie every 2nd of 3rd track day) and checking it frequently you should be fine to use what you have been.

 

Its only when people plan on changing it once every 5000 -10000 km's or every 6 months or so should you be more weary of what type of oil to use as the E85 can contaminate or break it down quicker than normal pump.

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I've used the Dtc 60's. They aren't too bad. I found they were completely fine when they're cold and certainly don't overheat on the track. The only two downsides that turned me off them was they weren't very modular (they are actually designed for heavy cars) and the brake dust stained my volks permanently which I wasn't too happy about! I've found the endless PC35's to be way better in every respect. Unfortunately you pay for it though....

 

I had read the same about the DTC 60's being for heavier cars, but Hawk have a variety of different pad types, why not look at those rather than paying such a high price for the endless?

 

I ordered a set of HT10's for Wilwood fronts and R33 rears, so i'll provide feedback on those once I've got it on the track.

 

 

Does the clear liquid you found with E85 float on the top or is it mixed through the oil?

Edited by Mase

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Its clear liquid by itself in the catch, cannot detect any oil really. Seriously, set up the catch can so it does not recirculate if using E85.

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I've used the Dtc 60's. They aren't too bad. I found they were completely fine when they're cold and certainly don't overheat on the track. The only two downsides that turned me off them was they weren't very modular (they are actually designed for heavy cars) and the brake dust stained my volks permanently which I wasn't too happy about! I've found the endless PC35's to be way better in every respect. Unfortunately you pay for it though....

 

I had read the same about the DTC 60's being for heavier cars, but Hawk have a variety of different pad types, why not look at those rather than paying such a high price for the endless?

 

I ordered a set of HT10's for Wilwood fronts and R33 rears, so i'll provide feedback on those once I've got it on the track.

 

 

Does the clear liquid you found with E85 float on the top or is it mixed through the oil?

 

Sam - Really depends who you talk to. John seems to be right in practice, but both the motul and penrite tech guys say that e85 can break down the molecular structure of the oil in as little as a week. The motul rep said that 300v is the best oil for the track in terms of shear resistance but its not e85 compatible. So they recommended running e85 at the track and changing to motul 6100 after the track day for normal duties as its designed for e85. Apparently no oil is actually fully tolerant of alcohol, just that the ones designed for e85 last much longer.

 

Mase - As John said there is no oil in the catch can (maybe a couple of tiny droplets) but its just looks like a clear liquid. Even left it overnight to see if the oil separated but there is no oil in sight.

 

I have used ht10's as well. They are good on the track but they are very hard on rotors - a very abrasive pad. So on my car anyway it just didn't stack up. You might find it different but that was what I found. I've honestly tried at least 10 different brake pads and ended up just finding that you get what you pay for. The endless last a long time, don't cane rotors, don't make much dust and work at pretty much all temperatures (only time they are apparently a bit ordinary is in very very cold temps until you've got a bit of temp in them but i've never had them need warming up personally).

Edited by nfi

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Thanks James, of course the guys selling the oil would want you to replace it more often... I might do a bit more research on it and see what I come up with. I don't really want to be dropping the oil after 150km or so.

 

edit. this gives some info http://www.penriteoil.co.nz/tech_pdfs/197%20E85%20COMPATIBLE%20OILS.pdf

Edited by sc s15

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thanks everyone for the input, yep looks like a big non-returning catch can is the go... with a clear sightglass and easy draining procedure.

 

i like penrite stuff, love the way they recommend enviro plus 5w30 which is 80 bux a bottle ! haha 5w40 is a bit cheaper.. will prolly just get HPR 5 or 10 whichever is cheaper on the day

 

fair bit of thinking to do with this e85 switch!

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fair bit of thinking to do with this e85 switch!

 

E85 obviously has its advantages but life is just so much easier to stay on pump 98. If were willing to get surgecon thats a different story but its over $3 a litre and can be really hard to get if the V8's are running. I'm sticking with 98 purely on the basis it is a lot easier to live with and has a lot less running costs (fuel consumption, oil, rubbers ect)

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mmm just did a little test tonight and turns out my 740's are going to 76% duty in just a 2nd gear pull... very rich tune on 98, reckon i'll need a fuel reg?

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740's will definitely not cut it on E85!! You'll need some serious fuel pressure to get there.

 

I know srs13 had 740's and did run E85 but pretty sure they were right on the edge.

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Some basic math. If 1000cc supports 300rwkw on e85, 740cc with do 222rwkw. That's at the same pressure obviously.

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I made 270rwkw with 850cc's and not much duty cycle to spare.

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740's will definitely not cut it on E85!! You'll need some serious fuel pressure to get there.

 

I know srs13 had 740's and did run E85 but pretty sure they were right on the edge.

 

Yep I ran E85 with 740cc and were at 100% duty at around 260-270rwk. Too close for comfort so upgraded to 2000cc. They were at 40% at the same power level!

 

Sorry I missed it but what turbo are you running?

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wheres your build thread John ! :D

mines a 2860rs with chipped comp fins

 

man 270KW is HUGE ... i'll be happy with 220-230 or so.. so fingers crossed it'll go alright. did you guys use a fuel reg? or can i stick with my stocko one

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I've been thinking of doing one for a while but I don't have many pictures and videos so it might be a little boring! Will see how it goes!

 

I used a Malpassi reg for years until the E85 ate away at it and it started to leak!! So I bought a Turbosmart FPR-1200 (its suited to E85, FPR-800 is not). So that also helped with flow.

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do it john! just so people like us can perv on your setup, and your car is the sex anyway in the few pics i have seen of it

 

bidding on a 2ndhand nismo reg now. hopefully e85 wont kill it internally. makes sense to have a reg on the car, only want to pay once for the tune

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What's a 2nd hand nismo reg going to cost you? You can buy brand new E85 compatable fuel regs for $130 delivered, if that nismo reg doesn't work well with e85 and you need a re-tune, it will cost you more in the end.

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do it john! just so people like us can perv on your setup, and your car is the sex anyway in the few pics i have seen of it

 

 

Thanks man but the adage of 'looks good from far but far from good' applies to my car!!

 

I'll probably start one when I can find some time.

 

Also agree with the fuel reg, just go a FPR 1200 brand new from the get go and know your getting something that will work. Peace of mind!

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first 044 lost in the post, love it, ordered a 2nd one + FPR 800 from Dan at ART

 

then finally solved one of the biggest stuffarounds ever on my car, longer wheel studs to suit R33 rear

 

have had the wheel, caliper and rotor off 3 times already after getting the wrong studs in the past. either too long requiring hub removal or wrong knurl size, FINALLY found the sweet spot from http://www.japanesei...tspares.com.au/ has the ones with 13mm knurl and they actually fit, INCREDIBLE

 

401749_10151240403956107_816317261_n.jpg

biggest stuffaround ever for a few mm extra thread

Edited by scooby36

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I was told the FPR 800 was not E85 suitable hence I bought the FPR 1200. You might want to look into that a bit more if running E85.

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yaya, FPR 800 is e85 compat. - thanks to Dan at ART. Things are coming together, fuel system all ready to go.

 

735025_10151268698601107_2023997458_n.jpg

big bad noisy 044 in the boot from Auto Sensors Australia on ebay who sent me another for cheap after the first one got lost in the post.

 

5kg braille battery in and laid down, box trimmed down low with iso switch on the fuel pump thanks to scott :D

anyone know what the MINIMUM gauge wire that i could use as the main positive feed to the engine bay? this stuff i used is stupidly heavy

531353_10151268698751107_341533499_n.jpg

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