Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
scooby36

Option1Garage / Signature Performance OUTLAW Sil80 Racecar

Recommended Posts

Get a multi meter and check your peak amps. Then how long do you need the wire?

 

That will determine the size cable you need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice work mate, what else has gotta happen to be e85 ready? that 100A? fuse you had in before never popped apart from that time at lakeside so maybe a bit more than that? i ran 35mm i think which is way overkill around 250A from memory, and ive got maybe 1-2m left. let me know if ya need some ill get some for cheap off that mate of mine around $10-15/m cant rememeber

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I usually use 4GA cable for the battery, but you could possibly get by with less.

 

You can reduce the size if you separate the starter and main power cables too (starter uses the most current, and will drag the voltage down while cranking if the cable is too small)

 

It looks like you have the ground cable running off somewhere. You can just ground the battery as close as possible (I usually use a spare seatbelt mounting hole) and get rid of some heavy cable.

 

 

The other thing you can do if you have a really light battery like that is mount it further forward (passenger floor, or even in the standard spot!) and save a few kg of wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used 35mm too, because that's what I had lying around. You should be able to get away with 25mm though. Any smaller than that and you might struggle with voltage drop when you're trying to start it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

voltage drop is only a small part of the problem, using too small and the cable gets hot and can create a fire hazard.

 

There is a formula for working out the required thickness of cable for a given distance. Every garage should have a multimeter and it's not hard. Don't guess, do it properly.

 

65171510.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

very cool, so i might be able to get away with 16 or 20mm2 :D

only cranking it over for a couple of seconds... actually nahh i dont think i can be stuffed changing anything now haha.

 

yea the ground runs to a bolt hole in the boot, i should prolly make it closer at one of the rear seatbelt holes eh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yea the ground runs to a bolt hole in the boot, i should prolly make it closer at one of the rear seatbelt holes eh

 

Probably 1/2 a second there..... :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4GA cable is ~21mm² and works fine for the main power feed for any length you're likely to have in a car.

 

8GA is about 8mm² and is fine for everything else (alternator to battery, main power to relay box etc). I tend to run big fuel pumps from their own 8GA cable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just saw you on iRace mate, good on you, must be heaps of fun...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks dudes :D

 

decided yesterday to finally pay some attention to the caliper bolt that felt a bit dodgy.. started undoing it, felt very wrong until:

227669_10151277785966107_597454551_n.jpg

 

ohdear..

so very luckily.. hopped on SAU classifieds and found a fella wrecking an r33 down the coast. 2hrs later and i was back home with calipers + near new rotors + pads for 200.

also while i was at it, replaced the ball joint in the right side LCA which was fooked. car was back on the road within 4 hrs :D

 

Also... more splitter mounting details as requested by a few peeps:

 

737640_10151279360211107_1208775919_o.jpg

 

543829_10151279361741107_23068568_n.jpg

Edited by scooby36

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car is in at STZ for an E85 (Eflex 75%) tune. Marty hooked me up with a PowerFC and this seems like the best budget option, which allows for multiple maps to be switched if I dont like e85.

 

See how we go, on 98 my 740cc's were reaching 76% duty. so hopefully the fuel reg cranked to the max can squeeze a bit more out of them for e85.

 

Added this section to original post

 

INSPIRATIONS:

 

Harry being the first ever silvia in the 59's at lakeside back in '09 - we all thought he was nuts after seeing this vid - the whole 'treat lakeside with respect', '9-tenths maximum' mantra that everyone spouted went out the window, heres Harry hanging it out at bridge + the last corner... very intimidating bits of track.. without raising a sweat. Another lesson learned, the importance of learning car control without aero influence.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxNw2Z6u7sI

+ build thread

 

240sxTTC's aero bits

modp-1201-01+1993-nissan-240sx+cover.jpg

 

Sasha is really the mac daddy pioneer of silvia racing... winning the mixed canadian touring car series back in 2007.. bowdown:

Massive 53 page build thread

sasha_flames.jpg

insidetrack02.jpg

 

Paul's record-holding S14 - untouched record around Lakeside

539262_10150647197299217_841565726_n.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

POSTING A DYNO SHEET ON NS

 

thanks heaps to Marty from STZ for the e85 tune. the green line is my old 98 tune, so e85 gives much more power up high in the revs, should be much more willing to pull hard to redline than before

736443_10151294599111107_1720557686_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome result. So makes a minimum of 20hp more up to 40-50 in the top end. Was contemplating taking mine to PITS to get it tuned, but might just go see marty instead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yepp marty is the man, very happy! yea going to take getting used to taking the car to 7K, always shifted sooner than that as it started to run out of puff.

 

might just do it during qual and when i really need it, dont wanna hurt anything...

 

cheers boostbus! it was 65psi base pressure i think?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

30hp extra is a good result, although it seems from around 5500rpm(?) or so up to 7500rpm(?) or so its more like anywhere from 20-70hp extra! the car is going to rev out a lot nicer now so you might have to hold the gears a few extra hundred rpm longer as opposed to shifting early. Would have expected some more midrange though. Nonetheless its still a great result and will help you heaps down the straight against those other quicker cars!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How much was the Braille Battery? Car looks great and is coming along well. Gives me some ideas ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

braille batt is a B14115 and was $260~ from batteries direct online store

 

Thanks to the Dan and the fellas at O1G for helping me change the leaky rocker cover gasket the other day, turned out to be easy as and not a drama for future DIY reference

337697_10151299178936107_1635918084_o.jpg

 

Also just had a productive hour and a half today pulling the front end off and putting these fender braces on with my gf's help.. with her leaning on them, undid hinge bolts and slapped the brace on, no drama :D

 

scuse the shitty pic

774357_10151303781581107_968967033_o.jpg

 

774318_10151303780261107_1481417844_o.jpg

 

also, advice needed for those flush nut-sert things for mounting the skirts to the car.. need alternatives to just using a huge wad of sikaflex which eventually comes loose

Edited by scooby36

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just rivet them on. Quick and cheap! :P

 

Just make sure you get the rivet length right or it will bust the fibreglass.

Edited by Mase

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

haha. i am shocking with rivets. will 'mark the holes' with self tappers and big washers... and then riv-nut eventually

 

front guards went back on thisarvo .. plus oil cooler relocated to in front of the radiator temporarily, will work out its permanent home when my new rad-support FMIC starts to happen :D

Edited by scooby36

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still love reading this thread. So much helpful information - Can't wait to get out this year, start my own thread and seeing if I can NOT be lapped by you guys in a race! =)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cal, I have a nut-sert gun and nutserts in most sizes if you need to borrow some time... Or I should say work has one.

 

I might do the same with mine actually...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cheers sam! apparently o1g has one, appreciate it though man save you the trouble. going to start making my splitter soon, just thinking the best way to cut that ally that you gave me.. a nibbler bit for a drill maybe?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You pretty much only have to cut it to length don't you? It's only 2mm thick, i'd just use tin snips, they will cut ally pretty easily. Or use a grinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

think i will have to trim the height a bit to allow the height adjustment with the way the bar curves up and out. i'll work out a way

Edited by scooby36

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

spammin pics.. got splitter v3 made thisarvo.

 

Thanks heaps to Sam for the ally, easy to work with, trimmed easily with grinder

 

used v2 as template:

843857_10151348585201107_1411635542_o.jpg

 

Trim and shape ally778825_10151348586371107_1101073725_o.jpg

 

Taking shape

812741_10151348587666107_450558015_o.jpg

539082_10151348587826107_622037039_n.jpg798184_10151348589466107_201652459_o.jpg

 

also.. replaced a rear wheel stud that i'd wrecked by overtightening

528784_10151348587251107_531192728_n.jpg

Edited by scooby36

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool, drilling holes in it for the brake ducts again?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ooaa, iv moved my oil cooler to be in with the rad/ic.. so that means the side area where it used to be is now free. will hopefully make them more permanently in that spot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When is your next outing bruz?

 

Any changes to your new splitter? vs old one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×