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neil_se

Neil's FD3S Sprint Car

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They were actually really similar in performance when I used both back-to-back. Because street sprints and super sprints are from a cold start, the tyres don't get a chance to get near optimum temperature. The NT01s measured very similar to the Z221s with a tyre durometer.

 

I do want to start doing some 10-15 lap events though and the Hankooks would be better once up to temp.

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Time to change the name of this thread though. The S14a is headed to a new home to receive a 1.5JZ transplant.

 

It's all systems go on the FD with a push to get it done within a short period.

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They were actually really similar in performance when I used both back-to-back. Because street sprints and super sprints are from a cold start, the tyres don't get a chance to get near optimum temperature. The NT01s measured very similar to the Z221s with a tyre durometer.

 

I do want to start doing some 10-15 lap events though and the Hankooks would be better once up to temp.

 

That's very interesting. But like you said it makes sense the higher UTQG rating tyre would be up to temp quicker and more effective from a standing start. For a 10-15 lap event things change quite a bit. What are the competitors using?

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RE-AMEMIYA shopping time. Yay!

C'mon - Headlights at least.

 

Also you have to make your exhaust dolphin tail (ie turn downward). I'll post a pic later.

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If your going to run sports sedans I'm pretty sure they run slicks and there will be a category sponser that will make things a lot cheaper. In improved prod it is all advan a050. Have a chat to the sport sedan association.

 

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Nah think more grassroots level, not state stuff. Tyres are unregulated and guys use a mix of slicks and semis. I have run Michelin slicks before but they don't get up to temp quick enough.

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arh k, if you only doing single laps reach out the MG car club and ask some of the guys what tyres they use for hill climbs, I know there run really soft tyres that heat up quickly.

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Some still run the old R888s, but many are onto the Z214s now. They go up to a 275/35/18.

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I'm still amassing parts for this, have got:

 

SP vented fibreglass bonnet

Fibreglass hatch

Big ass custom wing

Howe aluminium radiator & surge tank

OBP floor mount, reverse swing pedal box

Wilwood master cylinders

Superpro urethane bush kit

RZ (314mm) rear brakes

Milodon road racing sump

Sureflo long tube headers

 

I went to order MCA Red coilovers but we decided to wait until after it's mostly assembled so that spring rates can be calculated off the corner weights.

 

I'm also currently deciding on front brakes. Options within a reasonable budget are Mazda RZ 314mm, Attkd/D2/Ksport 6-pot 330mm, or Wilwood 6-pot 327mm (probably the way I'm leaning at the moment).

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Picked up some more parts:

 

Final Konnexion front bar

Garage Kagatoni rear diffuser

295/30/18 Hankook Z221 semis

 

And ordered:

 

MCA Red coilovers 14/10kg

Weds TC105N 18x10.5+12 wheels

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Nice parts list.

 

Where did you order the weds from and how much, if I may? I have the rpf1 in that size and want a 2nd set of wheels.

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They were $2500ish from Autotechnik. I thought that was pretty reasonable for one of the lightest models made, and they were the look I'm after too ;)

 

AME Tracer TM02s were also high on my want list.

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They are very nice wheels and also one of the lightest on the market. Good decision. Pics when they arrive.

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The car is coming along, just not at the pace I'd like. At this point I'm dreaming to think that it'll be ready at the start of next season. Anyhow, here's where it's at.

 

The wheels came ages ago and I had the tyres mounted.

 

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Engine is mostly assembled. An alternator will be the only belt-driven accessory, the water pump will be a Moroso bolt-on electric pump (should be here this week).

 

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Mounting hasn't worked out how it's meant to with the conversion kit. The sump sits on the steering rack so rack spacers (designed to reduce bump steer) need to be machined down. The manifold hits the firewall and needs to be notched. Pipes made for this exact RHD combo don't fit on the driver's side. Transmission tunnel was hacked to crap by previous owner and wasn't salvageable, so being replaced by sheet metal.

 

DSC_0449.JPGDSC_0450.JPG

 

Unfortunately that all adds bulk hours to the process.

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Samberg, but it's an earlier version that came with the shell.

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Not much has happened in the past few months so I asked for it back from the mechanic. Fitted the K-Sport front brakes this weekend and it'll go to another fabrication shop this week for headers, transmission tunnel, floor pan, bumper support, and anything else he can do. Also got to try out my hoist for the first time, I'll never be able to live without one now.

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That's a very cool garage! Nicely set up, you're making me jealous man!!!

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Cheers man, yeah it's pretty ideal. I just need to organise all my gardening crap a bit better to free up floor space for my car trailer again. The only downside is the driveway in front is a little too steep for me to push the car out and back in. Ah well, can't have it all!

 

I bit the bullet and ordered a Haltech Elite 2500 and IQ3 dash today as well. No use skimping when I've come this far!

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The only downside is the driveway in front is a little too steep for me to push the car out and back in. Ah well, can't have it all!

 

Sure you can! Just dynabolt some brackets to the concrete at the rear of the garage (aligned with the center of the door), mount a $100 wireless 4WD winch, hook it up to a spare car battery with a trickle-charger to keep it topped-up, and you're set! Clip it onto the tow hook, hop in the driver's seat and press the remote button ftw. Using a battery sounds dodgy, but it's the easiest and cheapest option; no mains wiring needed as a bonus.

 

Winches can be had very cheaply in 10-15m steel cable or synthetic rope, but you need only buy an extension strap if you need the cable to be longer:

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xwinch.TRS0&_nkw=winch&_sacat=131090

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Yeah true. Hopefully it'll be running before too long anyway :unsure: I was able to roll the car straight off the hoist onto my trailer tonight which is handy, it'll be even easier if I get a Tilta Trailer shortly as planned and I'll get a cheap winch for that.

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nice garage, i'm looking at building my shed soon, with the 4 post hoist did you have to go thicker with the concrete?

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The shed was existing so I just assumed standard thickness. That's not a problem with a 4 post because the weight it always acting downwards (and doesn't even need to be bolted down). Besides the slab thickness, I couldn't go for a 2 post anyway because the beams aren't all that high and sit right where the hoist posts would be.

 

I can highly recommend going 7 or 7.5m deep. Mine is 12x7.5m and you can see that even with the hoist there's enough length for the 0.5m deep shelving/work bench and still about a metre front and back.

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I got the car back from fabrication last week, now with long tube headers, new transmission tunnel, dropped floor to suit pedal box, floor and seat rail bracing.

 

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And I promptly stripped the car right back of almost everything but sheet metal so that it can go for abrasive blasting.

 

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Geez, where has 3 months gone? :S Need to get moving to have this ready by next Jan.

 

Car blasted & primed

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Satin black engine bay & machinery grey interior

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Engine mounted

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OBP Pedal box, Wilwood masters, GK Tech reverse throw handbrake, Earls braided brake lines fitted

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Boot floor gone to start on custom fuel cell

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Tuff! Freakin lovin this build! Full of awesomeness!

I bet your are literally jumping out of your skin with excitement.

Nice progress :)

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It feels a bit insurmountable at this stage but I'm just trying to tackle one thing at a time. Trying to figure out the driveshaft at the moment so I can have it in before I get the exhaust finished.

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Not much happening at the moment due to long hours at work but I did order a custom 3" aluminium driveshaft. Just 6 days turnaround from Shaftmasters.

 

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