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wAnAbEdRiFtEr

Looking to purchase a Skyline for the 1st time

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I currently own a 2001 S15. Have always planned for it to end up being a track car, keeping my tune mostly biased towards drifting.

 

I'm looking at purchasing an R34 GT-R as a daily.

 

I know A fair bit about the silvia's, though not too sure about the R34.

 

My plans are to keep it as stock as possible (being a daily) with only minor modifications.

 

What are some things to look out for before committing to such an expensive purchase?

 

any help would be great thanks.

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Lucky prick lol

Whats your budget?

 

mate i got 50k but im looking to hopefully pick one up for lil bit over 45k. looking at getting v-spec.

 

I know what to look out for when it comes to buying a car, just dont know if there was anything particular GT-R are prone to with everyday driving, apart from the obvious oil cooling issues i think they have after modding

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It's not oil cooling, it's oil flow. And the 34 has a lot of those issues resolved. More so a VSpec as it has N1 pumps and turbos.

 

34's also have steel wheel turbos, so no worrying about running an aggressive 14psi+ tune and having the exhaust wheel shit itself.

 

Look for the paint still being on the inlet plenum, a sign it hasn't had a billion very hot heat cycles to cause it to blister off.

 

Other than that, obviously drive it and get it up to temp and don't be afraid to get it some squirt! Should uncover any potential problems, but I wouldn't expect many in a stock car with 50-100k kms on it.

 

 

It's like any car though. Look for signs of shoddy maintenance (dirty filters, dirty engine bay etc) and get recepits for any work done, or at least photos "of that new heavy duty clutch that is definitely in the car but it feels like a stock one it's that good" :P

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It's not oil cooling, it's oil flow. And the 34 has a lot of those issues resolved. More so a VSpec as it has N1 pumps and turbos.

 

34's also have steel wheel turbos, so no worrying about running an aggressive 14psi+ tune and having the exhaust wheel shit itself.

 

Look for the paint still being on the inlet plenum, a sign it hasn't had a billion very hot heat cycles to cause it to blister off.

 

Other than that, obviously drive it and get it up to temp and don't be afraid to get it some squirt! Should uncover any potential problems, but I wouldn't expect many in a stock car with 50-100k kms on it.

 

 

It's like any car though. Look for signs of shoddy maintenance (dirty filters, dirty engine bay etc) and get recepits for any work done, or at least photos "of that new heavy duty clutch that is definitely in the car but it feels like a stock one it's that good" :P

 

wow great advice, just exactly what i needed to hear... thanks mate

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It's not oil cooling, it's oil flow. And the 34 has a lot of those issues resolved. More so a VSpec as it has N1 pumps and turbos.

 

34's also have steel wheel turbos, so no worrying about running an aggressive 14psi+ tune and having the exhaust wheel shit itself.

 

Look for the paint still being on the inlet plenum, a sign it hasn't had a billion very hot heat cycles to cause it to blister off.

 

Other than that, obviously drive it and get it up to temp and don't be afraid to get it some squirt! Should uncover any potential problems, but I wouldn't expect many in a stock car with 50-100k kms on it.

 

 

It's like any car though. Look for signs of shoddy maintenance (dirty filters, dirty engine bay etc) and get recepits for any work done, or at least photos "of that new heavy duty clutch that is definitely in the car but it feels like a stock one it's that good" :P

 

wow great advice, just exactly what i needed to hear... thanks mate

 

 

Don't trust the kms on the odometer. When I was looking around I saw an example that said 13,000kms on the clock, but the gearknob had barely any leather left on it. Also look for the major service or 100,000kms stickers in the engine bay that Nissan Japan sometimes put after a major service. A person I know bought an example that had something like 30,000kms on the odometer, but it had major service stickers in the engine bay... He was not too happy...

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It's not oil cooling, it's oil flow. And the 34 has a lot of those issues resolved. More so a VSpec as it has N1 pumps and turbos.

 

34's also have steel wheel turbos, so no worrying about running an aggressive 14psi+ tune and having the exhaust wheel shit itself.

 

Look for the paint still being on the inlet plenum, a sign it hasn't had a billion very hot heat cycles to cause it to blister off.

 

Other than that, obviously drive it and get it up to temp and don't be afraid to get it some squirt! Should uncover any potential problems, but I wouldn't expect many in a stock car with 50-100k kms on it.

 

 

It's like any car though. Look for signs of shoddy maintenance (dirty filters, dirty engine bay etc) and get recepits for any work done, or at least photos "of that new heavy duty clutch that is definitely in the car but it feels like a stock one it's that good" :P

 

wow great advice, just exactly what i needed to hear... thanks mate

 

 

Don't trust the kms on the odometer. When I was looking around I saw an example that said 13,000kms on the clock, but the gearknob had barely any leather left on it. Also look for the major service or 100,000kms stickers in the engine bay that Nissan Japan sometimes put after a major service. A person I know bought an example that had something like 30,000kms on the odometer, but it had major service stickers in the engine bay... He was not too happy...

 

Very good advice that is. I'v actually found the one i want, had a real good look at it, looks like i'll have this one by the end of the week. Prestine condition i think anyways. i'v sorta changed my mind on privately importing one, with the recent events in japan, now im just unsure if there has been any sort of flood damage to these vehicles. plus its not as cheap importing one like it used to be.. well for 34 gtrs anyways

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It's not oil cooling, it's oil flow. And the 34 has a lot of those issues resolved. More so a VSpec as it has N1 pumps and turbos.

 

34's also have steel wheel turbos, so no worrying about running an aggressive 14psi+ tune and having the exhaust wheel shit itself.

 

Look for the paint still being on the inlet plenum, a sign it hasn't had a billion very hot heat cycles to cause it to blister off.

 

Other than that, obviously drive it and get it up to temp and don't be afraid to get it some squirt! Should uncover any potential problems, but I wouldn't expect many in a stock car with 50-100k kms on it.

 

 

It's like any car though. Look for signs of shoddy maintenance (dirty filters, dirty engine bay etc) and get recepits for any work done, or at least photos "of that new heavy duty clutch that is definitely in the car but it feels like a stock one it's that good" :P

 

wow great advice, just exactly what i needed to hear... thanks mate

 

 

Don't trust the kms on the odometer. When I was looking around I saw an example that said 13,000kms on the clock, but the gearknob had barely any leather left on it. Also look for the major service or 100,000kms stickers in the engine bay that Nissan Japan sometimes put after a major service. A person I know bought an example that had something like 30,000kms on the odometer, but it had major service stickers in the engine bay... He was not too happy...

 

Very good advice that is. I'v actually found the one i want, had a real good look at it, looks like i'll have this one by the end of the week. Prestine condition i think anyways. i'v sorta changed my mind on privately importing one, with the recent events in japan, now im just unsure if there has been any sort of flood damage to these vehicles. plus its not as cheap importing one like it used to be.. well for 34 gtrs anyways

 

 

Better to pay a bit more for an example you can see, touch and drive. Plus you don't have to wait 6-8 weeks for it to arrive.

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Yeah, good point on the major service stickers. Also, the water pump is done in the 100k service and is often way better looking (shiner sorta) than the block, so it stands out. Obvious sign it's been replaced.

If it has less than 100k kms and the water pump has been replaced... not good :S

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drive it hard and try 2 change gear quick (quickshift) and if the diff makes a weird (thugg) noise dont buy it... and make sure they havent played aroud with suspension as back is lower than front haha f**s your diff and box

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Import one privatley, that way you know exactly what your getting. so long as whoever you go through gives you the legit auction sheet etc!

get a 4.5 grade!

 

thats what i did with my m35

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