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Team2JZ

S14 2JZGTE - Track build

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Where to start...

 

Here is my ride, i've been asked to start a build blog, maybe it'll help keep the motivation levels up on actually finishing this rig?

 

So far.

 

2JZ-GTE

Lots of firewall mods.

tremec T56

custom adaptor plate, flywheel, spigot bearing and tilton triple plate clutch

Kazz 2way diff

 

Next purchase, intercooler, radiator and front bar.

 

I will be building a V mount setup, with hopefully about a foot of pipework.

 

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Thanks for the comments guys, will add more pics this weekend.

 

This is the plan for the car.

 

Next im building the front end, waiting for pay day to purchase rx7 V mount intercooler, al. radiator and front bar.

 

Im in the process off striping shit of Fred thats not needed; air con, hydrofan water pump, heater hoses for what seems like every thing etc... im also going to change the seq. twin turbo setup to a true twin, this will let me strip off a boot load of vacuum hoses. Toyota must have an Engineer who has a fetish for running every thing from vacuum hoses. I want as little hoses on Fred as possible, not for weight, but less components = less shit to fail and less spare parts. Ill be adding a non-hydro waterpump, oil filter relocation with cooler, power steering pump oil cooler. that'll have to wait to the following pay... in July lol.

 

After that will be brakes, im thinking R33 GTST, would love the R33 Gtr brembo's but $$$!

 

The engine mounts were made for a single turbs 2JZ, since I have the bulky TT setup (for now only, eventually will upgrade, once I actually get to drive it) I needed to make further fire wall mods... meaning cut more out. Now there is no room for clutch master cylinder or brake booster. So im going to run an internal floor mounted pedal box. Seat and pedal pox are the next step.

 

Then comes the fun part... electrics and EMS. Hopefully funds will allow a haltech with Racepak dash.

 

Oh, almost forgot. The fuek system is about 50% done. Ive Bosche 044 with surge tank monted in boot with standard furl tank. Now I have to make the fuel lines, im thinking of running them inside the car, at first thought it seems unsafe, but really, with a full roll cage, if the fuel lines rupture inside the car due to an accident, i've prob got bigger problems. like a brick wall or another car inside my car...

 

Ill take this time to mention who has actually done most of the fab work, I bought the car with the Cage and engine mounts made by Mr x, im not sure if he'll want his name on here. He built the cage, front tube work, fire wall etc...

 

Im going to cover in front tubs once the V mount setup is made, if room permits, ill add some duct work for brake cooling. Ill likely use 3mm al. plate. The plan is to have the front end detachable with a few bolts.

 

The plan is to install perspex windows, all but the wind shield.

 

Paint and wheels... I would like to paint it Acid green, with black and white vinyl work. Ill keep the meshies on it for now, but eventually put some buddies on it.

 

ill keep the updates and pics coming.

 

Mick

 

ok, heres some more pics; Flywheel, Clutch, V mount thats not happening any more becouse its too hard, oil catchcan, coolant header with overflow, true twin setup with alot less toyota pipework,

 

Enjoy,

 

I should be finished mounting the radiator, intercooler, catchcan and header tank this weekend. im picking up the rocker covers tomorrow with -6 weld ons for catch can, so the oil pipework can be done aswell... yeah, enjoy!

 

 

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Edited by Team2JZ

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I'm liking where this is headed, shall be following smile.gif

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Wow, I like this alot. Looking forward to updates

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Wow, I like this alot. Looking forward to updates

 

+1:drool:

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wow!

 

so you are pretty much building my dream car , looks like its gonna be pretty spastic

 

what wheels and colour are you doing?

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CHYEAH, pretty freaken good start man, should blow mine out of the water.

 

some motivation:

enginebay.jpg

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fred and fran should make big babies

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This is so dirty... JZ's in S-chassis.... Perfect. Grab the best Jap motor, whack it in one of the best handling Jap chassis = win?

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This is so dirty... JZ's in S-chassis.... Perfect. Grab the best Jap motor, whack it in one of the best handling Jap chassis = win?

I know it's dumb but does the extra weight have any effect?

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Did you do the front barwork? Looks good but its going to get dirty :D that is unless you are plannin on sealing the tubs off somehow..

 

2j + s14 is an epic win tho

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This is so dirty... JZ's in S-chassis.... Perfect. Grab the best Jap motor, whack it in one of the best handling Jap chassis = win?

I know it's dumb but does the extra weight have any effect?

LOL, pretty sure he doesn't even have a silvia

 

the extra weight isn't that bad.

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This is so dirty... JZ's in S-chassis.... Perfect. Grab the best Jap motor, whack it in one of the best handling Jap chassis = win?

I know it's dumb but does the extra weight have any effect?

LOL, pretty sure he doesn't even have a silvia

 

the extra weight isn't that bad.

 

well to be honest, ive never actually driven a silvia either lol. almost every other car but never a silvia... mine doesnt count as someone was pushing it. hopefully soon, ive a christmas deadline.

 

Here is my extra weight justification.... correct my numbers if there wrong, i've got engine specs from various forums.

 

sr20-DET = 150kg

sr20-DET box = 60kg

Total = 210kg

 

2JZ-GTE = 250kg (No AC pump etc...)

T56 = 70kg (with super light flywheel etc..)

Total = 320kg

 

Difference = 110kg!!!

 

Now power.

 

sr20-DEt with about 4g mods = 250rwkw (These figures are assumptions)

2JZ-GTE with about 4g mods = 400rwkw (These figures are assumptions, but 2Jz can make cheaper power, single turbo, fuel system, EMS = reliable power)

 

Standard Car weight = 1200kg

Take shit out, install cage and 2JZ etc now it ways about = 1300kg (Again, this is an assumption, I have not actually weighed it yet.)

 

power Vs weight SR20 = 250 / 1200 = 0.208kw per Kg

power Vs weight 2JZ = 400 / 1300 = 0.307kw per Kg

 

Increase in power to weight = 0.307 / 0.208 = 147%

Increase in weight = 1300 / 1200 = 108%

 

The increased power Vs weight seems to overcome the increase in weight. Again, I could be wrong, but at the end of the day, it'll be sick to drive and more reliable then an SR or RB lol. (When I get rid of all Toyotas dam vacuum and heater hoses... )

 

Thoughts?

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This is so dirty... JZ's in S-chassis.... Perfect. Grab the best Jap motor, whack it in one of the best handling Jap chassis = win?

I know it's dumb but does the extra weight have any effect?

LOL, pretty sure he doesn't even have a silvia

 

the extra weight isn't that bad.

 

well to be honest, ive never actually driven a silvia either lol. almost every other car but never a silvia... mine doesnt count as someone was pushing it. hopefully soon, ive a christmas deadline.

 

Here is my extra weight justification.... correct my numbers if there wrong, i've got engine specs from various forums.

 

sr20-DET = 150kg

sr20-DET box = 60kg

Total = 210kg

 

2JZ-GTE = 250kg (No AC pump etc...)

T56 = 70kg (with super light flywheel etc..)

Total = 320kg

 

Difference = 110kg!!!

 

Now power.

 

sr20-DEt with about 4g mods = 250rwkw (These figures are assumptions)

2JZ-GTE with about 4g mods = 400rwkw (These figures are assumptions, but 2Jz can make cheaper power, single turbo, fuel system, EMS = reliable power)

 

Standard Car weight = 1200kg

Take shit out, install cage and 2JZ etc now it ways about = 1300kg (Again, this is an assumption, I have not actually weighed it yet.)

 

power Vs weight SR20 = 250 / 1200 = 0.208kw per Kg

power Vs weight 2JZ = 400 / 1300 = 0.307kw per Kg

 

Increase in power to weight = 0.307 / 0.208 = 147%

Increase in weight = 1300 / 1200 = 108%

 

The increased power Vs weight seems to overcome the increase in weight. Again, I could be wrong, but at the end of the day, it'll be sick to drive and more reliable then an SR or RB lol. (When I get rid of all Toyotas dam vacuum and heater hoses... )

 

Thoughts?

 

sounds like you know what your doing but if you need any 2J knowledge send me a pm even though ill be watching this build lol :D is f**king awesome

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4k in mods?? 2k for a decent computer, 1500 for turbo, 250 for a gate.. what about the rest?

and there is def more than 10KG difference in the boxes.

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nice project... looks like you'll be busy :D

 

and 180sx front end too did i read? shit yeah :P

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4k in mods?? 2k for a decent computer, 1500 for turbo, 250 for a gate.. what about the rest?

and there is def more than 10KG difference in the boxes.

 

 

like i said, got the figures from forums just like this one... most likely wrong.

 

Was not counting EMS.

 

The point I was trying to make on the "4g engine upgrades" was that if you spend "x" dollars on purchasing both an engine and doing upgrades; a 2JZ is the cheaper option to make 350+ rwkw.

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wow looks the good dude 2jz is winnn masss power

Edited by Sil80power

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wow looks the good dude 1jz is winnn masss power

 

Uh it's a 2JZ...

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what wheels are on it now?, want

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wow looks the good dude 1jz is winnn masss power

So I hit the wrong key my bad

Uh it's a 2JZ...

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Ok... I finaly finished the front mount, here are some pics.

 

 

New target, finish plumbing up the; oil catch can, cooling system, intercooler and fuel lines... that should take a few days. Purchase a pulley for the new Supra Water pump, OEM ones are more expensive then the pump! WTF? full underdrive kit from the debt loving americans for half the price of an OEM water pump pulley it is. Then a fan belt. Then EMS, Haltech E11V2! keeping my eye out for a relatively cheap one. hopefully she will start some time soon. New dead line is Mallanats. Enjoy.

 

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You running tilton pedals? Yours will be done before mine probably post up which cylinders you go for and how they feel :P

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You running tilton pedals? Yours will be done before mine probably post up which cylinders you go for and how they feel tongue.gif

 

 

Thinking if running something like this...

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PRO-RACE-Floor-Mounted-Cockpit-Fit-Pedal-Box-0006PRTC-/120746701198?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1d10718e

 

or retaining the stock acc. pedal saving some coin and running this...

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wilwood-Reverse-Brake-Clutch-Pedal-and-Mastercylinders-/270564677336?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3efee956d8

 

or making my own... i dont like this option...

 

from talking to others a 6:1 pedal with dual master cylinders and no brake booster feels fine. hopefully they are not bullshitting me, as im not running a booster at this stage.

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Ive got tilton floor mount setup, for the price of the ebay gear you can get a tilton setup from the states - pm me if you want more info, been speaking to tilton direct about good sized cylinder setup. Quality of the tilton gear is top notch.

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The increased power Vs weight seems to overcome the increase in weight.

Thoughts?

 

Also need to consider extra weight over front wheels n such but seeing as you're movin the motor back seems like you're already ontop of that ;D Regardless- whatever handling issues it generates you'll be able to minimalise with the use of adjustible suspension arms so shouldnt be much of a hassle- i reckon the wirings gonna be the most fun! good luck for sure

 

lookin sweeet man! will be keepin an eye on your progress

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