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180SXXXX

180SX ,still problematic

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what's the tps voltage plugged in and disconnected.. is it auto or manual or is it a manual convert.. and when you did the loom it was the correct one ?

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I didnt change the Loom yet?.

Its Manual and allways has been.

I'll re-check the TPS Voltage's and report back tomorrow, also will try get organised and check Timing with a Timing light as soon as I can

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Alright

TPS Plugged in, engine not running = 0.46 push accelerator goes to 4.26

TPS Plugged in, engine running = shows 0.46 at idle

TPS not plugged in,Engine running= reading 5.10 and staying there, timing this way was now showing 34--37 degrees.

 

AFM today is showing 1.40 at idle

Edited by 180SXXXX

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I thought the signal wire should read zero volts.. when unplugged... how handy are you with a multi meter ?

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Lol. The wiring to the sensor has 3 wires: 5V supply, ground, and signal. It is the signal voltage he has been reading off when it is plugged in, and the 5.10 V is obviously the supply voltage that is going nowhere because the TPS is not plugged in. All looks ship shape with TPS, now get a timing light..

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http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/sr_setup_tips.shtml#1.ign_timing_adj

 

was written by pete.. he says that TPS disconnection only works sometimes.. on the S15 it works all the time.. and the voltage is not 5 volts.. just go through the steps that is on there.. I prefer like pete to use datascan so you can actually lock the timing in the ECU and set it properly.. along with the idle speed.. I would be very carefull of grabbing a timing light and setting your base idle with the TPS disconetion method as something is funny with your setup.. and I believe your tuner tha it is ok.. and it may be the issue that pete is describing..

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So if you use DATASCAN it will allow you to lock the timing etc??,the ECU Talk Software I currently have is only for monitoring

Edited by 180SXXXX

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Then you just watch the reported timing value live on the screen and adjust your Crank Angle Sensor until what you're seeing on the crank pulley (with your timing light) matches what's on the screen. Datascan also has a handy feature under "Active Tests" called "Base Idle Adjust" - this locks timing at 15 degrees.

 

http://home.exetel.com.au/nds/NDSI/index.php?content=activetest

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Can someone on here with consult cable and software PLEASE take some AFM voltage readings for me to compare???.

 

Mine is showing AFM COLD =1.47v

AFM HOT = 1:40v

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ALRIGHT!!!!! I think ive finally found it!?,I hooked up my old damaged AFM( bent element wires) and the car no longer missfired and timing stayed at 15 degrees at idle!.

 

Im going to buy a new/geniune AFM but looking for a Stock 180SX Airbox before I fit the new AFM,ive tried and tried to find an Airbox for ages but no one has one,if anyone can help me source an 180SX Airbox( COMPLETE) please let me know!

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I wont call it 100% the cause yet,wont know for sure until I get an new AFM,im trying to source one right now

 

 

EDIT: you guys wana laugh!?,I just rang my local nissan for price on 180SX AFM = $1065.00!!!!! WTF?............ Paging TAARK,paging TAARK

Edited by 180SXXXX

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dam.

 

didnt you say youve been through a few AFM already? lets hope you have got the cause of this problem mate

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dam.

 

didnt you say youve been through a few AFM already? lets hope you have got the cause of this problem mate

 

Well I have had= my original one and then 2 second hand ones,the second AFM I bought I was stupidly still running the oiled type K&N Filter( at the time I didnt know the problems these cause),the 3rd AFM that I have now: I recently found out that the POD to AFM Adaptor was not sealed right cause of Elongated holes on the adaptor so Ive probably f**ked up the AFM?.

 

Im hoping I finally have found the problem,though every other time I thought I had it sourced it started up all over again!,Im just waiting on price of AFM elsewhere and looking for an AIRBOX

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I havent been on here in ages and ur still having issue's. Have u tried cleaning the sensing element of oils etc just to see if the afm is still ok. For 1000 u could almost do a nistune and z32

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I havent been on here in ages and ur still having issue's. Have u tried cleaning the sensing element of oils etc just to see if the afm is still ok. For 1000 u could almost do a nistune and z32

 

Ive cleaned it numerous times with proper MAF Cleaner,Im not going to pay over $1000 for a new stock AFM anyways.there was a guy on ebay selling 180SX ones for $285.00 NEW/Genuine but has none left,I'll keep looking until I find a decent priced one,I mailed Taark too but no reply yet?.................

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I may have my stock AFM still in my shed after i took it off for my Z32 upgrade. PM me if your interested.

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I cant believe how hard it is to find a NEW OEM Air Flow Meter!!, do you guys think one of these aftermarket stock type ones will work ok or give me problems? http://www.streetimp...ils.asp?id=1086 I try to buy geniune Nissan parts but Im having no luck this time!..........

Edited by 180SXXXX

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would be better off getting an aftermarket ecu, that runs with out airflow meter, pretty sure all your problems will go away

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would be better off getting an aftermarket ecu, that runs with out airflow meter, pretty sure all your problems will go away

 

 

I was thinking the same thing recently, though a D jetro will cost me $1400 minimum and then $500 or more for tuning!,nearly $2000 which sadly I dont have spare.................

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would be better off getting an aftermarket ecu, that runs with out airflow meter, pretty sure all your problems will go away

 

 

I was thinking the same thing recently, though a D jetro will cost me $1400 minimum and then $500 or more for tuning!,nearly $2000 which sadly I dont have spare.................

What about an old school HKS VPC (vein pressure converter) to eliminate the afm (cheaply) and then see if there is any change?

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Can someone on here with consult cable and software PLEASE take some AFM voltage readings for me to compare???.

 

Mine is showing AFM COLD =1.47v

AFM HOT = 1:40v

sounds like your pretty well sorted but if it helps my maf reads 1.60v at 1000 rpm when i first hit the key then drops to 1.39/1.40 when warm at 800rpm

on a 1991 redtop sr20det

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just fixed mine tonight, not sure if it's the same problem as you. but i changed all four coilpacks to some yellow jackets and it solved the problem. now boosts fine without hesitation and no backfiring. a friend of ine also had an issue with it missfiring and his was the ignitor. hope you get it fixed.

Edited by Barbie princess

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just fixed mine tonight, not sure if it's the same problem as you. but i changed all four coilpacks to some yellow jackets and it solved the problem. now boosts fine without hesitation and no backfiring. a friend of ine also had an issue with it missfiring and his was the ignitor. hope you get it fixed.

 

I was going to buy them previously but read numerous BAD comments on those Yellow Jackets on here in previous threads.......

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well the things i previously did

-checked injetors to make sure they wern't leaking

-checked timing numerous time, even took it back a tooth

-boost leaks, removed all cooler piping and tested smaller fractions of the piping

-bought another AFM

-bought another coilpack as i thought one was missing

-new laser platinum plugs

-all brand new heavy duty hose clamps

-brand new denso fuel pump

-replaced all vac hoses

 

my car wouldn't boost or rev over 3500rpm, i couldn't idle without almost stalling out and i could barely take off without it jerking around and trying to stall.

 

might of been some other things i went over, but can't remember. lastly i decided to take the punt and replace all four coilpacks, and thought if this doesn't fix it i will try the ignitor. installed and it was boosting perfect. no miss no hesitation, no backfires. if you lived in vic i would lend you a hand and lend some parts.

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Well thats the problem mate,I have no mates over here in W.A I can lend parts off!! so I have to keep spending money and trying to rule out things.

 

Ive had too many posts on the Silvia W.A forum about this problem that they closed my last thread about it,so I dont bother going on there anymore.

 

 

My coilpacks I have here are my originals and the ones in my car now are a second hand set so I cant say 100% that my coil packs are in top order?......

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If anyone has a KNOWN TO BE WORKING CORRECTLY stock SR20 AFM for sale let me know as I cant find a new one anywhere!

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Ive spoke to that seller before,that AFM has been used and he wants $285.00 !? thats wayyyy too much for a used item..........

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what part number is yours? i have one you can have for $120 plus postage? i bought a second one thinking it was the AFM also. but i honestly don't think it's your AFM.

Edited by Barbie princess

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