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JoeyTA22

Fabrication Pics Thread

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Most guys are starting threads for all there fab work which is fine, but i only just started doing the occasional hobby stuff which probably doesnt deserve a new thread everytime.... so for some of the guys who wish to post some pics of there latest work, chuck it up here...

 

 

I'll start off with my rear strut brace on my 180. Just purchased my first mig and wanted to test it out....

 

Bent up some plate to fit around the strut (pain in the ass) and tacked it on, found it pretty hard to find the right amperage setting without blowing through the original sheet metal.

f9e5650f.jpg

d0013a0a.jpg

 

Cut some pipe to fit.

b9666c34.jpg

 

Finished and painted!

d016286d.jpg

b6fab707.jpg

 

Found the mig is pretty crappy on the lowest setting and struggled seam weld the original thin material.

Edited by JoeyTA22

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mig's are so useful when it comes to chassis work

u plan on adding any more to that bar?

if u dont ever plan on putting the rear seats back in i would cut out that tray and tie the bar into the main hoop

IMG_0652.JPG IMG_0936.jpg

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Yeah they sure are, i'm starting to find that i probably should have spent more on a decent mig instead of more on a tig which i probably wont use near as much, live and learn i guess.

Car is a drift hack only so wouldnt have any dramas cutting out that tray, thanks for the idea. I plan on adding a few more bars to the cage aready there (rear cross bars), but being a bolt in type im not sure how effective it will be with the amount of flex it will have in the joints.

 

The original pic is similar to what i have atm but my one extends to the front of the car aswell. I plan to add the bars in red and the yellow one is the rear strut brace i did today:

roll.JPG

 

Have you got any tips for welding vertically (as in the underside of the bar)? When trying to weld mine i had to lay the gun practically flat and angle it up, it didnt fuse very well and kept spraying off little molten balls everywhere.

Edited by JoeyTA22

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this is how i have mine

roll.JPG

 

here is another picture to give u a better idea

IMG_1052.jpg

 

looking forward to seeing more work

also personally i would rather have a tig then a mig

tig is just so much neater and u can do so much more with it compared to a mig

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Cross bar added to the main hoop today...

 

d449105d.jpg

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Looking good mate be sure to post up more pics as u progress

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Cheers dude. Starting to find that notching is a pain in the ass and longest part to get everything fitting right, not really worth investing in a $200 notcher for these small jobs tho.

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A decent notcher is a lot more then 200

How are u notching? U can notch by eye of u know how

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The way i do it is by tracing around half the circumference of an offcut onto the end of the piece i want to notch, from there i cut a "V" into it and use one of the circular sanding pads to shape the semi-circle. Normally requires fitting and modifying 2 or 3 times before im happy.

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its hard to tell u how to notch by eye so i drew it up in ms paint hope it helps if u got any questions just let me know

 

once u have it all marked out just grind the insides of the tube a bit so it fits nicely onto the other tube your joining it to

 

mark out the centre line then mark the edges once u have done that just draw a line connecting both edges together but go through the centre line

notching.jpg notching 2.jpg

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Starting to find that notching is a pain in the ass and longest part to get everything fitting right

 

 

You can download a free program called "tubemiter" that will work the notching out for you, then print it on paper so you just wrap it around the tube and follow the pattern. There's also a few websites that do the same thing "online", but these rely on having an internet connection available at the time.

 

You also need something to measure the angle that the tubes intersect at - I use an old woodworking adjustable protractor-type thingy I found in my father's shed, or you can work it out with good old-fashioned maths (trigonometry, sum of the squares of two shorter sides equals the square of the longer side, that sort of stuff)

Edited by dave1600

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heres the finished product on the tubs and rad support i made, car was in an accident so front end was a bit bent when i got it. was my first fab job really. been learning heaps while building this car.

 

[edited by STR8E180] picture resized

IMG_0545 (2).jpg

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good stuff mate!

 

this thread was a really good idea

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Thanks for the advice guys. Last night i tried to measure up the angles for a brace from one of the rear arms to the main hoop, to be able to use the tubenotcher program. Turned out to be an absolute headf**k! I used a piece of string taped up to both to get the length and angle i wanted, but because it wasnt coming from a parralel line to the hoop i wasnt able to figure out how to get the angle! (as in it was meeting at two different axis).

Just thinking about it now, if i extend the string down past the rear arm to where it meets the body and from there draw a straight horizontal line until it meets up with the main hoop, that should give me an angle to work out on the same axis. Sound right?

 

EDIT: also, thanks for the drawing STR8E180, just wanted to confirm with the 15mm... do you always come in 15mm or is it just half the diameter of the pipe you are wanting to notch?

Edited by JoeyTA22

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mate if i was u i would just do it the way i posted up with the MS paint drawings

its the easiest way to do it for a first timer

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Yeah i might just give that a go. Can you confirm about the 15mm/half diameter?

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How much u come in depends on the size of the tube and for roll cage tubing it's always 15mm

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Remember once u make the cuts get a grinder and grind out the inside of the pipe

 

In fact I'll do a little right up tomorrow with pictures if u need me to??

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heres some of my recent stuff...

 

Got a bunch of mild steel pipe for almost free and just had a go with the OXY. I had done brazing before but never welding so it was a learning experience :)

 

IMG_0205.jpg?t=1309860383

IMG_0203.jpg?t=1309859264

you can see my progress in this next pic, first welds on the left pipe :thumbsup: took a while to get the tips right.

pipework.jpg?t=1309075737

IMG_0228.jpg?t=1309860180

IMG_0214.jpg?t=1309860024

 

Only thing i couldn't do was weld the flanges onto the dump and decat in the end i gave up and took it to someone with a MIG... any tips for this?

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not my work but my sponsor AM Performance.. check out the intake pipe he did for a customer :D

 

269863_2096355815734_1450512427_2189972_8223037_n.jpg

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i wouldnt have a clue with oxy welding ive never done it b4 but i do have a question for u

what turbo is that ? ive never see that logo on a compressor housing B4

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i was thinking about going stainless lobster back piping but didnt want the extra weight but still love the look of it tho

this my intake pipe at the moment

IMG_0950.jpg

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i wouldnt have a clue with oxy welding ive never done it b4 but i do have a question for u

what turbo is that ? ive never see that logo on a compressor housing B4

Kando_dynamic/Kinugawa T67-25g (get them off ebay)

 

Did this on e85 at 18psi... fullboost 3600ish, wanted to push for more but maxed injectors :(

t67dyno.jpg?t=1308909591

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they the Japanese budget turbos ?

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they the Japanese budget turbos ?

 

Trust/Mitsubishi copy cores with taiwan made housings I believe.

 

Nigel uses one in his td06!

 

Go lobster man soooooooo much cooler

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they the Japanese budget turbos ?

 

Trust/Mitsubishi copy cores with taiwan made housings I believe.

 

Nigel uses one in his td06!

 

Go lobster man soooooooo much cooler

yeah ive heard about them B4

 

think ill keep my aluminium intake pipe for now

ill try talk my brother into going lobster back intake pipe

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Remember once u make the cuts get a grinder and grind out the inside of the pipe

 

In fact I'll do a little right up tomorrow with pictures if u need me to??

If you could do that, that would be much appreciated dude, just to help me get my head around it.

 

Oh and nom nom nom and the lobsterback intake pipe.

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Only thing i couldn't do was weld the flanges onto the dump and decat in the end i gave up and took it to someone with a MIG... any tips for this?

 

The trick with oxy is to manipulate the torch so that the two pieces are evenly heated (ie you don't melt the thin piece, ie the dump pipe, before you even get the thicker piece slightly warm, ie the flange).

 

Just trial and error really, if you see the thin bit getting ready to melt before the thicker one, just make sure you position the flame so that most of the heat is aimed at the thicker bit. I keep the torch angled more towards the thick bit, and have it pointed at it a little as well - see the diagram below.

 

You may get a little "undercutting" of the weld bead on the flange, but for this type of work it doesn't really matter.

flangeweld.jpg

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some of my work,i do all my fab work myself.just as a hobby.

 

neede to get myself a better welder,maby a 240amp.

 

P1010549.JPG

 

P1010184.JPG

 

P1050225.JPG

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