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loki323

my no longer daily driven S15 which is also not a race car

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LOL shannon.

 

 

you muppets in the east need to find something better to do with your time, rather than nit pick pathetic shit like a thread title.

 

just sayin brah.

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Ok, I've got something else for you guys to talk about and or nitpick. Enjoy ;-)

 

ShannonDyno-1.jpg

 

I said to go for 1.5bar if he was keen, not sure what he ended up doing boost wise.

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Call the car what ever you like mate, after all it is YOUR car!

I think your doing a great job especially getting rid of some of the not so good looking parts lol

Keep it up :)

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Spoke to tuner, 366hp was at 1.5bar.

Gate sounds better at 1.2bar though ;-)

 

Only limiting factor is the turbo, but she is more than enough fun now. :-)

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Well reliability is proving to be a bit of an issue this month. Get up to some nice cold air, boost cut... drop boost controller to 1.2 bar... boost cuts again... Hit a straight *pop*

 

007nb.jpg

 

048lj.jpg

 

perhaps it is twisting or getting a bit warm there.

 

Not sure what I'll do. My mechanic is going on holidays for a month so it'll be a while until I can get him to pull it out to fit a hard pipe on the turbo.

 

I'm wondering if it is worth trying a metal bend with two straight joiners?

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Looks like it's splitting because of the heat from the manifold

It's weakening the silicone then under boost it just rips open

Best option is to get a cast 90 degree bend and weld it directly to the compressor housing then have a straight silicone joiner coming of that onto your intercooler pipe

 

I buy my cast 90 bends from gcg not sure who sells them in your area tho

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I really wish u went to the t3 60mm trim version 2835/3071

U already went custom manifold and external gate would of had much better results from the 60mm trim version

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Also just noticed in your engine bay pic your pod filter is very close to your turbo

Should make the pipe longer so the filter isn't so close to the heat

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Changed to a cast elbow like kemp said but also wouldn't b a bad idea to heat wrap it n ur manifold to keep temps down.

 

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Cheers for the suggestions kemp. I know it'd do better with a t3 turbo but I'll work with what I have for now.

 

I've got another pipe so I can drive around. Will probably try and shield the manifold to protect ABS module and the joiner but I know the long term solution is to do the cast bend.

 

No entirely happy with piping, will look at extending the intake and the cold side needs to be redone without the BOV pipe as that fouls on the radiator at the moment.

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u can get the 60mm trim in a T2 housing as well so u wont need to change your manifold

 

u can try wrapping the 90 degree silicone joiner with a protective heat wrap which is designed to reflex the heat but the best solution is to weld a 90 degree bend onto the compressor housing

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u can get the 60mm trim in a T2 housing as well so u wont need to change your manifold

 

u can try wrapping the 90 degree silicone joiner with a protective heat wrap which is designed to reflex the heat but the best solution is to weld a 90 degree bend onto the compressor housing

 

you have my attention... is this the secret squirrel gcg turbo that made 290kw?

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u can get the 60mm trim in a T2 housing as well so u wont need to change your manifold

 

u can try wrapping the 90 degree silicone joiner with a protective heat wrap which is designed to reflex the heat but the best solution is to weld a 90 degree bend onto the compressor housing

 

you have my attention... is this the secret squirrel gcg turbo that made 290kw?

The secret squirrel turbo is just a tad bit smaller

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Great build thread shannon,

 

Had the chance to be the first person to drive this back from All Star Garage as Shannon was on holidays, it comes on boost super quick and hard.

Will chop up around barbagallo when you get the chance again.

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Also just noticed in your engine bay pic your pod filter is very close to your turbo

Should make the pipe longer so the filter isn't so close to the heat

Couldnt he also get a enclosed filter/CAI to do the job?

 

I was disappointed when I saw this car didnt have a cage, and still had aircon, but nice build thread none-the-less :thumb:

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Couldnt he also get a enclosed filter/CAI to do the job?

 

I was disappointed when I saw this car didnt have a cage, and still had aircon, but nice build thread none-the-less :thumb:

 

Aircon is a Must in WA haha.

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Soooo been a long while but I need some advice so I'll do a mini update.

 

Quest for reliability continued... Badly.

 

The replacement nismo clutch plate lasted about 7000km before it bit the dust at a dyno comp. made 321hp which was enough for a win but nowhere near the tuner figure of 366.

 

So I fit a nismo coppermix twin plate

 

The box lasted 3 days and let go in 4th racing a 500hp r33 ( I was winning too :-/)

 

Put my old box in the next weekend and that too let go during freeway runs. No skids, no clutch kicks. Just 140km/hour + boost = crunch

 

So if you fit a twin plate with a six speed and feed 470nM through it you are going to have a bad time!

 

So I had a 2.5k clutch kit that broke 6 speeds. Contacted powertune about the rb25 kit but didn't hear back on whether it worked. Contacted alpha omega and heard back the next day - yes they had fitted their kit with a z32 box and nismo twin plate to an s15, yes it will work.

 

So two weeks later we were fitting a $700 z32 box with the alpha omega kit. All bolted up in 14 or so easy steps exactly as promised.

 

Shifter felt a bit odd as the linkage came loose (not the fault of the kit) but we fixed that quickly enough with a g-clamp and a few choice words.

 

$700 box had a worn syncro for 4th but even so its been a lot more solid. Ratios sucked balls though so I took my diff to a guy known as dalspec and he determined it was a nismo one way in a 4.11 ratio - so I got him to swap that into a 4.39 diff... Huge improvement. Had it redyno'd and made 352hp on a roller (about 262rwkw). So its making power and has a solid driveline... Which I should hope so after spending 6k!!!

 

Unfortunately the story doesn't end so well. Got pinged with a yellow sticker for exhaust hanging too low. It turns out my spirited driving has blown the nismo mount on rhs of engine which pulled the exhaust off the hangers and caught the attention if mr plod while I was driving home from work. (5 mins on the road :-( , they spotted me at the halfway mark. )

 

I've now got an old 323 to run around in as plumbing the gate back, standard suspension, standard diff etc was never going to happen in the 10 days they gave me.

 

Anyway need some advice- do I go solid mounts or another nismo?

 

 

Will post pics a bit later!!!

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Nismo's should do the job fine. Mine held 293rwkw's and about 5-6000klms with no issues.

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no idea why you would run a twin plate, let alone with a 6sp. 6speed is glass and twin plate is a gatling gun lol.

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no idea why you would run a twin plate, let alone with a 6sp. 6speed is glass and twin plate is a gatling gun lol.

Because racecar

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no idea why you would run a twin plate, let alone with a 6sp. 6speed is glass and twin plate is a gatling gun lol.

 

I'd of course read on forums that it'd break but I thought that was more to do with hectic driving than purely driveline forces.

 

But it turns out stock was 230nm or something, I've got 470nm so 500+ at the clutch - the old six speed was in trouble.

 

Anyway nismo twin / z32 / nismo 1-way is a great combination, once I have the yellow sorted I'll be hunting more power :D

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Some photos from this year...

 

 

1235jb.th.jpg

007kyr.th.jpg

008rnk.th.jpg

009yoi.th.jpg

1490d.th.jpg

004nq.th.jpg

005xhi.th.jpg

007snm.th.jpg

1286m.th.jpg

1824v.th.jpg

1214l.th.jpg

 

068ao.th.jpg

037fb.th.jpg

054yw.th.jpg

Edited by loki323

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awesome build!

can you give a detailed comparison between the standard 6-speed and the z32 gbox (with the 4.11 diff) in terms of street driveability?

is it slower to get to 60/80/100/110 km/h and what revs does the engine sit at?

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awesome build!

can you give a detailed comparison between the standard 6-speed and the z32 gbox (with the 4.11 diff) in terms of street driveability?

is it slower to get to 60/80/100/110 km/h and what revs does the engine sit at?

 

Essentially for a street car I found

3.9 was okay with the six speed (standard)

Would be unspeakably bad with the z32

4.11 was perfect with the six speed

but aids with the z32

4.39 is much better with the z32

 

Problem with having the lower ratio is you find yourself off boost in skid pans, and having to grab a lower gear to accelerate/overtake on the street

 

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Ok so the yellow is off.

 

Gearbox conversion, rose joint suspension etc all passed once I'd changed the nismo mechanical diff out for a stock one; stock struts with superlows, and plumbed back the wastegate. Not too painful in the end.

 

We did have to remove the drift pinapples and change the rhs driveshaft to get rid of a clunk in the rear. Then I snapped the lhs driveshaft doing a victory skid. Fortunately I got a pair for $50.

 

So its in a bit of a shit state with worn subframe bushings and stock struts. We think the pinapples arnt ideal so planning to get proper subframe bushings ?whiteline and redo the rear end. While its out. The gktech subframe bracing looks tempting for $35 and some welding anyone done it?

 

Also on the list is to redo turbo studs and gaskets as its doing the whistling again. While its off I'll do the hardpipe bend off the compressor but I am eying off the HKS3037 sitting on a mates bench. Not sure what flange it has but will be interesting to see if we can get it to fit down there perhaps with the T25 plus thingo from ATP

 

Would be pretty cool to get to 400rwhp on pump fuel (300kW)

 

 

 

 

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