Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
LinkAuto

General technical resources

Recommended Posts

Throughout the web there are a number of resources for general technical information relating to oils and lubricants.

 

Here are a few to help give a better understanding of oils and lubricants.

 

Motor Oil - Wikipedia

 

Synthetic Oil - Wikipedia

 

Refining Crude Oil - HowStuffWorks

 

Synthetic Oil - HowStuffWorks

 

What if I never changed my oil... - HowStuffWorks

 

If any of you come across anything interesting that's worth posting up, go for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone link to verified data that is either for additives or against them?

 

There's stuff called "Pro-ma" that 50% of Google results says that it's the second coming of christ, the other 50% say don't go anywhere near it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi TheApothecary,

Some info to take into consideration; Every lubricant has a range of additives in it, like detergents and friction modifiers. Inidividually packaged additives assist only when the lubricant you are using lacks the qualities you need.

Motul's 300V Factory Line 4T for motorcycles has an additive for wet clutches, which shouldn't be used in cars. Vice versa, don't use car 300V in a bike as it doesn't have the additives you need.

 

Picking an oil with the additive package required, or for the purpose required is better than using seperate additives.

 

Pro-Ma might work wonders for someone using K-mart oil in an old red motor, but not if you are using Motul 6100 in an RB. An oil with the additive package designed for that application doesn't need further additives.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's what I thought, what about the idea that the detergents can loosen sludge and block up oil filters making your engine seize due to lack of lubrication - There's millions of internet rumours regarding oil.

 

The other thing people said was that oils contain teflon which is a type of metal, so when the oil lubricates your engine there is metal scraping inside.

 

Thanks for your help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We should get Mythbusters onto that rumour.

Most people don't know, but every oil filter has a pressure relief valve. If it didn't and the filter was blocked, it would burst at the seams!

To say sludge caused an engine to seize might be true in the case of sludge blocking certain oil galleries. To say the detergent caused it by moving the sludge is pushing it.

 

Motul uses additives to not only move the sediment, but break it down and suspend it in the oil so it does get filtered or removed on the next oil change.

Here is a video on the Engine Flush product from Motul:

 

Teflon scraping metal?? another tall story. It's a friction modifier, technically called PTFE. It stops metal scraping. That is Nulon's secret ingredient so I wouldn't go saying it scrapes metal! :shades:

Here is a few links on PTFE:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive

http://youtu.be/zmxDectN56g

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last set of questions before you have me set on your brand of oil (that you're sponsored by or work for?).

 

Firstly, can different oils effect horsepower as is implied here

?

 

And secondly why isn't it recommended to use synthetic oils in engines "pre-1995" (you may have explained this in another of your threads). I would've thought it could prolong the life of older, tired engines (or another rumour as older mechanics suggest to use thicker oils for older engines - despite that meaning it wont circulate as well due it being a thicker viscosity - how does that work?.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sure thing.

 

Ah, yes, the Koval EVO, Nulon sponsored test. KW figures can be improved slightly with a better oil than what you started with. It does this by reducing drag and friction allowing components to move more freely.

Improved power shouldn't be what is solely desired as some oils drop in viscosity as the oil temp rises, where others don't drop as much.

One thing to note is that most dyno operators will tell you power figures will change like that in the video without changing the oil. It is just how cars behave on dynos, temps change, tyre pressures change, oil temps change. There are a number of factors.

Anyway,check this out -

There's a few different languages spoken in that video, but I'm sure you get the idea.

 

Where did you come across the comment of synthetics not recommended for pre-1995?

Mazda won the SPA 24hr in 1981 using Motul synthetic oil...

Mazda_RX-7_racestart_print.jpg

 

 

Here's another famous car from the early 80's.

rl_rx7_sstone_6hr_1981_Percy_Terada.jpg

 

No synthetic oils in pre '95?? not true! But you do have to pick your oil to suit your needs. Older engines have bigger gaps between their bearings and need a thicker oil to take up that gap, newer engines are made really well and have small gaps between the bearings, which a thinner oil can be used. Mineral, semi or full synthetic, up to you. Just get the right viscosity. Then again, using a full synthetic in an old engine is like giving strawberries to a pig so keep it real while you're at it.

 

Hope that helps make a bit more sense of it all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, come a few days later I had a chat to a guy standing out the front of a van that was green selling some kind of oil. He happened to be promoting "ULX-110 Liquid Horsepower". http://www.ulx110.com

 

Explained why his oil was the best, because they used a special chemical that cost $70,000 for 2000 litres or something and it was hand blended and quality control was a lot more stringent.

 

Also told me that Synthetic oils are shit (because it doesn't promote longevity nor does it cling to the internals and create a barrier) and that his oil can be run back to back in a top fuel dragster. I suggested Royal Purple and he said his oil was still better despite it being probably the best that you can purchase from a commercial oil.

 

Bottom line is - was he spouting shit at me for about 20 minutes? Their product costs $69 for 5 litres of mineral oil and I was very unsure how to decipher what he was saying - time for a second opinion, I think so.

 

Oil_Report_Card_3+small.jpg One of their promo pictures.

 

Have you heard of this before and or have any rebuttal to his/website points?

Edited by TheApothecary

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, no rebuttal. It might be all true what he was saying and if you owned a top fuel dragster, it might be just the right stuff.

 

The best oil is not about how well each brand puts up an arguement as to why their product is better. It all comes down to what you, the consumer, wants and what you need it for.

Maybe Motul is not for you, and then again, maybe it is. Who are we to say!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×