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YogiR33

Drift spec wheels - Where do you buy, offsets, widths

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Hey peeps,

 

Not sure if its been covered or not but where do people buy their rims from and what brand do you use ?

 

What sizes, offsets do you use and why ?

 

Current setup on Cats car is Sil80 with flared std rear guards with 25mm wide front guards. Rear LCA is std S13 with -1deg camber. Front LCA is std S15 with -2.5deg camber. Height isnt too low.

 

Current wheels are :

Front, Lenso D1R, 17 x 9, ET-4

Rear, Lenso D1R, 17 x 10, ET+15

 

The rears im not too worried about as i can always get say a 17 x 9.5 +12 or a 18 x 10 +15 or whatever, that width/offset is pretty common.

 

What I'm a bit worried about is the front, got the car sitting perfect and working really well with with 9" width with -4 offset, where do ppl go if they want aggressive offset wheels ? As the likelyhood if these wheels getting damaged is inevitable and just want to make sure I have replacements ready to go if needed.

 

I've seen that the Volk TE37 comes in a 17x9, ET +0, but worried about inner wheel clearance. Guess extending the lower control arms would help with that but then may run into binding issues with the tierods.

 

I always use the below link to work out my inner clearance and also fitment:

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

 

So in summary, what wheels offer aggressive/custom offsets and where do you buy them from ?

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You aint mentioned the tyre specs Yoshi that will help abit also.

 

But 17x9+0 will fit(depending on tyre) on the front.

 

61943_433279274619_207420384619_5214414_4661200_n.jpg

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Tyres on the rear are 235/45/17, Zetas

Tyres on the front are 225/45/17, Federal RSR

 

I know 17x9, 0 will fit but just worried about inner clearance, as it is with loom moved up a bit the front right is scrubbing on the loom, having to keep an eye on it and recover with tape between events to ensure the wires dont get frayed.

 

Maybe need to change castor, currently running ~7deg castor

Edited by YogiR33

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Dont run ANY spacers, genuine 17 x 9, -4. Dont like the way spacers work and the force it puts on the hub. Front LCA has not been extended, but running R32 cross member and S15 STD LCA.

 

Donny, wont be selling them, if anything would like to get more as they sit perfect on the car and work well with current setup.

 

So anyone with ideas on brands for wheels with low offests ? Happy to look at generic brands like Rota, Koya and so forth as well. I was just lucky to get my hands on the limited run of -4 D1Rs that came in, in hindsight i should of bought 2 pairs.

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rightio. going from a -4 to a 0 shouldn't cause hardly any issues. just wind it to full lock and check chassis room at the rear and caster rod room at the front.

 

i get all my wheels off yahoo.

 

http://page16.auctio...ction/u40247661

buy it now is under $600 so about 1000 delivered, then get new barrels made in whatever offset you want.. (just an example)

http://www.metalspinnersaust.com.au/metal-spun-wheels.html

Edited by blingcommander

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I'm curious as to the problem with spacers when literally every car in Drift Tengoku has them.

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I'm curious as to the problem with spacers when literally every car in Drift Tengoku has them.

 

110% personal opinion.

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Yeh its personal preference, just not a fan, seen a few on track dramas with spacers letting go.

 

Thinking about extending LCA by 15-20mm and then can run 17x9 +12 on the front no dramas, or even extend by 5-10mm and go a 17x9 0.

 

Looks like the Varrstoen 2.2.0 comes in a 17x9, 0 and +12 offset http://www.varrstoen.com.au/

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DoriTen did an article on spacers and their effects..

 

They're talking about them as a tuning device though, I've got that issue and trying to understand it does my head in lol.

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every setup is different, there's 3 things to consider with offset, and they go in this order: clearance, scrub radius, track differential. clearance is obvious, scrub radius is one thing with a surprising effect on the car's feel and handling, and track difference, well i honestly don't think it's that critical within drift, but there are issues in theory.

 

width also depends on the tyre you're running and once again, clearance issues. one of the first issues people run into with big lock setups in caster rod clearance, easiest way to solve this is a smaller rim, this also helps tie rod clearance when the lock is the other way (on even bigger lock setups where the caster rod has been moved out of the way). the next one is the tyre, for the front if you're running a high performance tyre on the front with tonnes of sidewall rigidity, don't bother stretching, use the right wheel for the job, if it's a 235, go a 8-9" rim, if it's a 215 no bigger than a 8.5", 8" ideally. if you're running a cheaper tyre, going half an inch wider can help pull them a little tight, but stretching too much will ultimately sacrifice ultimate grip for a little bit less tyre movement, there's no point having tyre rigidity if there's no grip to make the car actually respond. on the rear everything is less of an issue, i generally don't run stretch any more as there's more of a tendency to pop off the bead when you're clipping ripple strips n shit, and also because 9" wheels are cheap and i run 245-255's on the rear lol

 

 

this is all from a functional perspective obviously, and japan yahoo auctions with the help of streeter is the best place for wheels.

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if you are worried about the loom, maybe screw on a metal plate/cover to protect it

 

i completely removed my loom from inside the guards and ran it through the firewall instead, because i got tired of having to re-wrap my loom and fix stuff

 

that was with running a 215/45/17 on a 17x8 +/-0

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