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frenchie1001

Some times gets used

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thanks man!

have 2 people lined up to wire it so hopefully it will be making 120rwkw in no time. f**king power house.

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working wet weather into that equation.

 

Jus want it to idle and have a larger than 2000rpm power band.

Edited by frenchie1001

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well, after 3 days of ownership the corolla is broken. kinda.

 

old mate came and grab the loom out and is currently making a new one for me. will be sweet.

 

while its getting made i think i might replace the vaccume lines and the distrubtion block thing with less mangy and less cabled tied to the throttle body.

 

any one got some hot tips on where to buy another distribtion thing?

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need help! !!!

 

have just cut the inners out of the laurel, but cant find any photos of how people brace it, panel beating mate is worried about strength.

 

i just spent 1 hour on google but nothing really came out.

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Most of the ones I seen just weld a tube from the strut tower to the top rail like this:

null-59.jpg

 

Or you could do what ziptie does and just leave them with no bracing.... But that thing is falling to peices :lol:

Edited by muski

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thats what i was thinking off doing, but i couldnt find any photos.

 

no bracing is also a pretty solid option

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need help! !!!

have just cut the inners out of the laurel, but cant find any photos of how people brace it, panel beating mate is worried about strength.

i just spent 1 hour on google but nothing really came out.

 

From what i remember a mate saying who is a Fabricator by trade, they have no actual structural integrity in an accident, With no clue myself on the topic i think putting a bar that goes between the Guard to the Strut tower may be worst, if you were to have an accident you would not only push the guard, but then push the tower itself so something always has to move in the end and the weakest point would then be the tower, unless you then run another bar that goes from the back of the tower to the firewall to hold the tower there.

 

Its just a chain reaction the way i see it.. Could by why many car makers out there run plastic tubs?

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Just do a longer one of muskis photo, 70% of the HnR cars are like that can't be f**ked looking up photos but check our Facebook for more engine bay shots

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Brought a corolla? Don't you mean bought? :/

 

He brought it home....who cares

 

 

Definitely brace strut tower if you don't plan on running tubs. Might not be crucial in a crash but somebody on here did an engineering case study and it proved the tubs are actually very structural/crucial to overall engine bay strength

 

ZIPTIE has no tubs and no bracing, and the strut towers slowly pulling the whole front end apart

Edited by .Ryan.

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Brought a corolla? Don't you mean bought? :/

Okay captain grammar, I've glad we have cleared that up.

 

Brought a corolla? Don't you mean bought? :/

 

He brought it home....who cares

 

 

Definitely brace strut tower if you don't plan on running tubs. Might not be crucial in a crash but somebody on here did an engineering case study and it proved the tubs are actually very structural/crucial to overall engine bay strength

 

ZIPTIE has no tubs and no bracing, and the strut towers slowly pulling the whole front end apart

 

Yeah okay, that's pretty much what I wanted tk know.

 

Probs do it like muski's picture but longer.

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Wouldn't it be better to brace to the chassis rail. Or rearward to the firewall. Like someone said above if you put a corner into the wall (like what already happened) your tower will be bent/moved and it will be a much bigger job to repair.

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Wouldn't the brake booster and master cylinder be in the way though?

Plus if your gunna crash that hard (no doubt frenchie will again) it's still gunna be f**ked either way.

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Even make a removable brace to the firewall. Or a triangle strut brace which I think Kriss has or had on the ceffie???

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You're removing structural rigidity from in front on the strut tower though, not behind. So a brace to the firewall won't be 'replacing' the load bearing property of the original tubs in the same way that a bar from the tower to the top rail will.

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Just a little fun fact. VE commodores don't run any front tubs (they're covered by the fuse box/ecu on the drivers side and airbox on passenger side) and don't have any extra bracing at the top.

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You can't really compare a car that was designed and engineered to meet a modern day safety rating and be structurally sound with no metal tubs to a car that is 20 years old and was designed to have metal tubs until somebody got happy with a grinder

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Crash 1 car and muski is convinced your a terrible driver.

 

I have a fairly chunky sturt brace, so after reading this I will run 1 bar forward off the tower and maybe one down to the bottom rail as well. If its nt to hard for our limited tools

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Awwww comon frenchie where's your sense of humor? :lol:

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Or just enclose the tubs instead of being lazy?

To lazy and way to hard. Don't know anyone with the talent to do it.

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Ryan, I don't think it will matter if you brace from infront (metal tubs) or to the rear (firewall). It's only to ensure the tower can't flex or move in a heavy-ish impact which a brace to the rear will achieve. Easier way is the triangular strut brace, best way is metal tubs, worst would be to brace to top rails in engine bay. Only my opinion, happy to be told otherwise.

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I'm not talking about in crashes, I'm talking general stress from driving a drift car. ZIPTIE hasn't been in a big crash at all, but the strut tower is still pulling the front end apart from the general stress of driving

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How much load do you think goes through a shock tower?

Which that load is then a lot more with stiff suspension like these cars run.

Bracing it to the back is not going to do anything for the strength of the front as Ryan has said.

Do it properly and you shouldn't have to worry about it but don't do it at all and you will.

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