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S15Kris

S15 Suspension/allignment

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I recently put in coilovers, castor rods, rear camber, traction and toe arms on the S15.

Took it to get alignment with 1.25 Camber Front and Rear.

Car came out with the driver side wheels poking 8mm and the passenger side flush to guards.

The suspension guy said it must be something to do with the subframe or some shit.

Has anyone else had experience with an S15 looking like this after camber adjust.

I think they may have stuffed up and did 1.5 on one side and 1.25 on the other?

Any way Im taking it back next week just wanted to get other owners thoughts?

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Just looked at suspension joint print out for camber settings.

 

Rear Right is 1.2 deg. Rear Left 1.1 deg.

Rear Right 8mm poke. Rear left just flush.

Thinking pulling the right in to 1.5 to get em even?

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Check to see if your rear quarter has been repaired. I'd keep the alignment as it is and look at fixing your body at some point.

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1. 0.1 of a degree will be hard to notice

2. either the arms/chassis are bent or the body panels are out of whack (eg. the amount of pulling on the fenders on one side is more than the other side - meaning more clearance on the side that gets pulled more)

3. it could be the alignment machine that is stuffed. Did the machine go up or did they leave it on the lowest setting - these machines have auto-level when you raise them up. Leaving them down is not the best for readouts because the ground that they sit on may not be perfectly level, hence, affecting the readouts (happened to me)

Edited by fried rice

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The machine went up around 1.5 meters.

As Bling Commander says I did not really want to sacrifice alligment for looks

but it would be nice to have both. Im a bit of a fussy prick.

I have known the vehicle and it's original owner since new. Never crashed. The guards are rolled but have been never pulled hence the mystery. Maybe that has push one side out a touch? Possible ???

The front right pokes around 5mm also. It seems to be the whole driver side . The arms are all hardrace adjustable.

Aside from this the car handles pretty frickin awesome. Took it for a good run tonight.

I have arranged to take back to the same suspension company but at a different location and they said they will measure/adjust things to check it is all

good at no charge. I will keep you posted. Thanks for all your thoughts and advice guys.

Edited by vertex

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tbh i think it is funny that people expect their car to be mm perfect. and is only ever noticed when trying to run the wheel flush

Edited by blingcommander

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tbh i think it is funny that people expect their car to be mm perfect. and is only ever noticed when trying to run the wheel flush

But it's the best feeling when you do have the same alignment and it's all the same distance relative to the guard too.

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My S15 is the same, about 10mm to the drivers side. I have measured all the arm lengths, sub frame for for being in the centre, etc. The only thing I could find that is different side to side is in the actual hub assembly. Trouble is I dont know which side is ok. I m guessing it has been slid into a gutter on the LH side.

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f**k.sake. i give up. all s and r chassis cars have all been crashed, that is the only logical explination. all crashed in EXACTLY the same way

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It's the calibration of the wheel aligment machine. It's as simple as that!!!!

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Had the same problem with my S14, one wheel sticks out about 8mm more than other (cant remember which now)

 

Took it to G-mac in Perth and they did a chassis diagnosis and said everything is straight to within 2mm and not to worry about it

 

After searching the net for "one wheel sticks out more than other S14" i find it is a fairly common thing with S series cars

 

I would leave it you can only look at one side at once, definately dont change alignment for looks, someone suggested a spacer on one side but i wouldnt do that either

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f**k.sake. i give up. all s and r chassis cars have all been crashed, that is the only logical explination. all crashed in EXACTLY the same way

 

1bf.gif

 

 

-dan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

p.s, your nissan isnt a bently, the car is not perfectly aligned.

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Are the traction arms even?? Wheel aligment machines got give you a caster reading for the rear only a set back reading (different). Traction arms affect camber and toe. Is the height of the car even?? Measuring from the bottom of the rim to the tip of the guard is incorrect. Are the springs set even? Are the heights if the coilovers even or are they set to suit wheel to guard height? Where the dampeners even when the wheel aligment was done? Where the Tyres evenly worn? Where the tyre pressures even? All that shit affects the results. Was the floor even when. The car was set to current height? Are the spring rates the same? Valves in the coilovers the same? Are the cradles bushes worn? Are any bushes worn? WHEN WAS THE WHEEL ALIGMENT MACHINE LAST CALIBRATED!?? These are all questions to take into account!!! NOW LISTEN!! THESE ARE BASIC FACTS!! when you adjust the camber it effects the height! When you adjust the traction arms it effects the toe, camber and intern the height, most people install parts straight of the shelf THERE NOT SET THE THE SAME LENTHS so you install then set the height of the car then go get a wheel aligment, what happens then when you try to even things out?? Shit goes up and down and in and out. Measure the height now (it will be uneven) now when you realize it's all uneven take everything back out and start again!! COILOVER SET UP, (springs) measure from the top hat to the locker at the bottom of the spring, crank them just to the point where the spring is tight but not to tight, same on the front and rear, now basing this that at this point the cars height is pretty much even from front to rear, measure from the top hat to the bottom locker for the base height adjuster, front and rear will be different heights BUT two rears should be the same and the two fronts should be the same heights, rear camber arms just measure up so the both at the same points from the bolt hole and the hub mount and same with the toe arms. NOW the traction arms these MUST be died even other wise it will screw shit, put them side by side make sure they are exactly 1mm shorter then the stock ones, this is a must!!!!!! Front caster arms just make sure there even if you want make the left side 1mm longer then the right, the coilovers will have movement on the two bolts where they mount on the hub either (if you have the clearance) push the hubs all the way in if not pull the hub all the way out, undo the camber adjusters on the top hats and pull them all the way out towards the guard..... Don't bother with the height measuring from the wheel to the guard if all that shit that I mentioned is even the car will be perfect now go for a wheel aligment and ask them to calibrate the machine if they start giving you bullshit reasons why they can't it's because they don't know how to and if they don't know how to they never do. Wheel aligment machines measure to the point of a millimeter and it only takes a little bump or a knock to throw the measurement out alot.... There's nothing wrong with your guards, there's nothing wrong with your cradle and there's nothing wrong with your wheels it's just been set up wrong then aligment has been done on a shit unmaintained machine. My thumb is numb!!! Good luck

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P.s when you go for the wheel aligment dont get the guy or girl touch the traction arms, if they look even (SITTING IN THE CENTRE OF THE ARCH) LEAVE THEM THERE IS NOW WAY TO SEE IF THERE EVEN WE ONLY GUESS BY EYE!!

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Rears?? Setback is what most machines will give, not really that even when the height between front and rears is uneven remember the machine measures in points so very very unlikely in most cases the total it gives is correct. I suppose you could always rotate the heads I know you can't sweep the rears but it would give you some reading as to where there sitting. The one random wheel from my experience has always come back 1# a height issue and in most casses caused after a camber adjustment or 2# as simple as the machine needs a calibration. This is 99% been s chassis cars from taking the camber in most cases lowered cars that just had camber arms put in and before adjustment the specs where ns 2.3" and os 1.6" you go straighten them up to let's say 1.3" each side the all ofva sudden there's one side higher in this case the os and the wheels hanging out the guard. Happened to me, happened to all my mates and all the most the customers that come in until I cracked the shits and started charging them to go to there homes and reset everything from scratch then bam just like Christmas day everyone was happy again.

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I recently put in coilovers, castor rods, rear camber, traction and toe arms on the S15.

I'm pretty sure the wheel aligner wouldn't have played with the traction arm lengths when doing the alignment. But similar to what TRUNYA has mentioned - the length of the traction arm is fundamental to the entire show. For example a longer traction arm on the near side rear (NSR) than the off side rear (OSR) will drop the NSR of the vehicle. This is because as the traction arm increases in length the upright rotates towards the rear thus altering the pick up point of the lower strut mount. Its all pretty techy shit and requires a pretty mechanically/engineering minded individual. Before you go buying aftermarket arms everywhere please consider that tweaking it all so that they work well together is highly involved. Its not just a 'longer here shorter there and you have more traction' story - there's a hell of a lot more to it than that. But in effort to stay on topic, differing length traction arms will raise/drop the vehicle thus leading to all sorts of uneven effects to the alignment, Just 3mm longer traction arm can have the effect of 10mm difference in coilover length/height setting. Just throwing it out there

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All so true that's why I mention measurements in points as in point of millimeter, just 1mm or 1 degree in my world is alot. As I mentioned before remove-measure-reinstall then take a final measurement, when your happy with the basics height and gaps take it for a wheel aligment, if you want them to play with the traction arms please please take it to someone like a professional Suspention shop to get done. The big players (beaurepaires) (jax) (bob Jane) places like that are just for toe and goes and the guys that did the 3 day tafe course and where probably confussed the whole time probably havnt even seen a adjustable traction arm before letalone understand the effect of the adjustment. If your in Sydney message me and I'll come to you and do it all for you.

Edited by TRUNYA

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Take it to a proper alignment shop or suspension specialist to align, you pay more but it's worth it

 

The machine at those tyre shops are probably out

 

Same mistake i did, the tyre shop dialled in more camber on the passenger side on mine, i assume this is to compensate for the camber on the road

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