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S15 boost

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Hey guys, new to this site and the turbo scene after owning mostly N/A rotors. Anyway, I have an Aussie delivered S15 running stock everything, i have recently cleaned out my side mount intercooler and have a dr Drift bleed valve (spring bearing type). Looking for a bit more response and boost and am wondering what psi you guys think is safe? I have a gauge and will be getting all fuel/air mixtures checked before i fit it. I have heard 12-14 psi is safe on a stock setup? So long as not boosting for too long...just a streeter at this stage.

 

Any feedback would be much appreciated... churz

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Welcome churz. Just to put it out there when you can, use the search feature to make sure there aren't any related threads already posted. Sometimes the ns search is clunky but even Google can track down any nissansilvia thread.

 

Stock turbo I wouldn't push more than 16 PSI from it. It's not a great turbo by any means but with a metal intake / POD, Walbro fuel pump, front mount intercooler, NIStune, 3" exhaust and increased boost you're looking at potentially 200 rwkw.

 

Response is as good as it gets with the stock GT2560R. The turbos only get laggier but with a good larger turbo you will still get good torque before the boost threshold (max boost).

 

If you want response then some ways of doing it is changing to E85 fuel with a conversion or at least run premium 100 E10 without too much fuss, changing to step 1 cams to help with turbo spool (although low down will be slightly compromised, not an issue on E fuels), stroking / boring, raising compression ratio and upgrading differential to a 4.11 ratio with a 1.5 or 2 way configuration.

 

The best turbo response to power ratio would be the Borg Warner EFR series, awesome in a twin scroll. There are others that fall close such as Owens HTA GT2868 and followed closely by the Garrett GTX series.

 

Best thing to do is think about your power goal and go from there. Around 250rwkw is good for an S15 without too many issues, although the 6 speed aren't very strong so if you drive it hard on 250rwkw, expect to replace it in the next 6-12 months. I've recently had a reconditioned 6 speed with a circlip mod done and it's holding out ok so far on 225 rwkw. Driving style plays a role in it too. Otherwise consider the R33 conversion or a reinforced 6 speed by either HPI or Nismo (twice the price of an R33 conversion but shifter sits in same spot and you have a 6th gear!).

 

Anyway I could go on but I'll just be rambling.

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Cheers mate, thats alot of info ill take in but im not too serious just yet as im running stock dump, side mount etc just looking for a teeny little bit more k dub's so i can beat me mate in his WRX :P just a safe tune on 12psi is all im lookin at for now...then comes the shopping list when i know a bit more. Cheers man

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for the basics, stick a front mount on there and a turbotech boost tee (can be had on ebay for like $40) and you can wind the boost upto 14/15 psi.. that will be a bit of an increase in power and you're only looking at $400 for the front mount and boost tee.. once you go past there it starts to get expensive as ruff ryda said, but on stock turbo you can achieve 200ish kw's at the wheels with just fuel pump, front mount, boost controller and some sort of tune (nistune, powerfc, whatever really)

 

good luck with it bro..

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Cheers guys,

 

Anyone else feel free to let me know how u set up initially, i know i need FM, bigger dump, exhaust, tune etc...just interested to see how reliable and what performance u gained from a stock setup?

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Hey bud, welcome to g-force. :)

Here's an idea what of a few basic bolt ons and a tune will give you:

Z32 AFM

Cold Air intake/solid intake pipe.

HKS Front Mount Intercooler HKS twin Dump pipe, B

litz Front pipe,

Signal Turbo back Exhaust

Nistune Chipped ECU

Walbro Fuel pump

= 194kw at the wheels

 

There's a bit more in it but it's a safe tune. I've been able to push my car through the mountains for hours at a time and no problems whatsoever. If you're looking for more than 200 safely, it'll take injectors and a new turbo at the least. But I can say that the above set up will take most WRX's and STi's, so unless your mates' WRX is silly quick or he's willing to dump the clutch at 7g, that should be enough to smoke him all day.

 

Cheers,

Kha

Edited by Ntrnsk

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Sorry, shouldv'e mentioned that the turbo is a standard ADM T28. Full boost (16psi) at 3200-3500 roughly, i don't remember exactly, coz I haven't driven the car in almost 6 months (license) :D

 

Previous car was stock except cat back and Tee boost controller running 12psi, definitely slower than STi's, same same as a standard wrx.

Edited by Ntrnsk

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Yep, 3" dump and front pipe will also help with flow.

 

A safe tune won't get you too far unless you decide to really make the best of what you have with a Front mount intercooler, POD filter, fuel pump, NIStune and boost controller.You're looking at around $1800+ including front and dump but not including installation costs.

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Around 250rwkw is good for an S15 without too many issues, although the 6 speed aren't very strong so if you drive it hard on 250rwkw, expect to replace it in the next 6-12 months.

 

How much did it cost you to get it reconditioned?

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I bout a recon box with circlip mod for $1700 from a business in Vic and they reimburse $400 once your box has been sent back to them.

 

I had some technical issues with them though, I don't want to name and shame publicly but they were attempting to avoid a possible faulty box rebuild until I had the box checked and it passed a gearbox report from a specialist.

 

Not very good customer service but the box is acceptable and seems to run as a recon should.

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On a STOCK setup I wouldnt run more than 10psi

 

With a FMIC, Fuel pump and 3in cat back you can safely run 14psi

This will get you ballpark 180KW at the wheels, not needing a tune or anything

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I bout a recon box with circlip mod for $1700 from a business in Vic and they reimburse $400 once your box has been sent back to them.

 

I had some technical issues with them though, I don't want to name and shame publicly but they were attempting to avoid a possible faulty box rebuild until I had the box checked and it passed a gearbox report from a specialist.

 

Not very good customer service but the box is acceptable and seems to run as a recon should.

Isn't there a way to strengthen the 6sp box? (Heavy duty clutch etc.)

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My personal opinion or cheap reliable power would be:

 

Nistune - $800

Fmic - $200-500

Full turbo back exhaust - $400 +

Boost controller - $40 +

Fuel pump - $150

injectors $400+

 

Boost it up to 16psi on stock turbo And get a good reliable 200rwkw

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I bout a recon box with circlip mod for $1700 from a business in Vic and they reimburse $400 once your box has been sent back to them.

 

I had some technical issues with them though, I don't want to name and shame publicly but they were attempting to avoid a possible faulty box rebuild until I had the box checked and it passed a gearbox report from a specialist.

 

Not very good customer service but the box is acceptable and seems to run as a recon should.

Isn't there a way to strengthen the 6sp box? (Heavy duty clutch etc.)

 

A heavy duty clutch will place more shock into the gearbox when changing hard so not really. The only thing you can do with the stock box is get a recon box with the circlip mod done and hope it doesn't break anytime soon.

 

My personal opinion or cheap reliable power would be:

 

Nistune - $800

Fmic - $200-500

Full turbo back exhaust - $400 +

Boost controller - $40 +

Fuel pump - $150

injectors $400+

 

Boost it up to 16psi on stock turbo And get a good reliable 200rwkw

 

Bit more cash but saves so much hassle with injectors done and a Z32 AFM already. I'd go with greens or take away the AFM and injectors to save cash if need be but duty cycle will be at around 95% which can be dangerous.

Edited by Xxx_Ruff_Ryda_xxX

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If ya only after around the 200 mark the std afm will be ok. They can be pushed to over 200kw. I've still got my std afm and make about 215rwkw. It's more the boost they max out at not necessarily power. Mine is maxed. I've got a Z32 to go in when I get my Poncams installed.....just waiting for some cash!!! I've put my TD06 in....all she needs now is to throw in the cams, z32 and a tune!!

 

Anyway back on topic. I'd def invest in an Ecu. I'm not a fan of boosting anything on the vague factory maps. U just get too many lean patches and rich patches all over the shop.

Edited by greens14

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Late to the party but...

Some above have said to get a cat-back.

Get a full exhaust.

Makes a big difference in all.

Get that over an intercooler or anything else as a full exhaust is pretty much the only mod that you can do without con's.

 

Also re 6speed. You can also go nuts and do a 350z one.

But the 6 speed in the S15 can been beaten down way too much. It's stronger then your typical WRXglassbox etc.

It's that it's just not "AS" strong as the S14.

Edited by Suspop

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Suspop wrote this in a thread of mine a while back but should help you out as well

 

Welcome.

 

To get 200rwkw:

In this order too...

Full turbo-back exhaust. Just buy a Varex catback. This is good because you can turn down the volume. Then a GKtech front and dump pipe, then get a local exhaust shop to install it all and also put in a highflow cat. Get them to tuck the system as high as possible! As a side note, number one defect is a load exhaust because you can hear it (grabs your attention) then see it's not stock (retains your attention) and... you get raped.

Intercooler. Buy a turnflow GKtech intercooler (all found on their website, Goggle it). This is better because you don't have to cut holes, and that's a no-no for a street car. Both these mods are perfect for a street driven car.

Get a boost controller. It's up to you what to get. eBoost2 Street is okay.

Get a fuel pump. A Bosch 040 is not so a drop-in. Walbro GSS341 is, it's cheaper and about the same.

I should mention pod filters at this point....

Don't fit a pod, you'll just get heatstroke and you'll get defected. Fit a aftermarket (non-oiled) panel filter in your stock airbox. Cut a big hole on the bottom (or side) of the stock box and run a pipe from your guard to it. This is probably the first thing you can/should do.

Most filter brands are okay, Drift is a start.

 

The fun part...

Turn the boost up to 14PSI and you should have around 160rwkw give or take 10rwkw.

You might want to block off you stock blow off valve if you feel it's starting to leak (it will past 16psi for sure). Don't get an aftermarket one...

 

You don't need a tune for any of the above mods.

 

Part 2:

Buy a Z32 airflow meter (from eg Just Jap website), and then get a Nistune and you will have around 200rwkw.

I don't know any tuners up in NSW, but I believe Powertune is up there (some people on NS work there too). They are good and I would take my car there without thinking twice.

In Vic we have Status Tuning, and Dr Drift to name a few good ones.

You do need a tune to have a Z32 (might I add, for cams too, if you wish to know). At this point, I would say get a custom intake pipe to adapt the AFM to your stock airbox.

You will need a heavy duty clutch for this kind of power. Get a Xtreme HD Organic duel mass conversion clutch kit. Your car will be drivable as stock, but will be able to handle the power (plus up to 240rwkw if you want to punch it up later). But the clutch it not "really" for motorsport or intensive drifting or drag racing. Don't get button for the street, because it's shit to drive in stop-start traffic and it's not so easy on S15 gearboxes.

 

Need more power? No... you don't. Do the above first! 200rwkw is enough for a lot of people. BUT when the time comes... don't post a 'which turbo' question. Please... do a search for 'GT2871 on S15' or '2871 on SR20' into google or above ^. There is a billion threads on this.

 

For handling:

Get rims that are more then 8.5" wide, but no more then 9" wide for the front (rear can handle 10" if you want a staggered setup). And rims that are no more then 18". A S15 has slightly smaller guards then s S14.

Get wider tires, such as 235 all around. I must point out here... wider doesn't mean more grip, the compound (the quality) of the tire matters. Your front end can't really handle more then 235, but if you drop your car low you might need to go 225 on the front.

R33 GTR rims are great (get from eBay), match them with tires such as KU36 in 235/45-17 size (get from option1 garage - Google it). They do take a little to warm up, but don't flop out when they are 'hot' and you can still drive them when just 'warm'.

If you don't think you can hack this, go KU31 tires. They are slightly cheaper. Both these tires are good value for money, look no further for your first set of tires.

Special note: you might need 5mm slip-on spacers for the front depending on how low you want to go. Alternatively you can use bottom camber adjustment bolts to do this. Depends on your offset. Cross the bridge when you get to it.

 

Random fact: rims fitment makes or breaks any car's 'looks'. 17x9+30 is perfect fitments before you start getting unwanted attention.

Don't pissoff people by asking for fitment advice, use the online calculators. There is lots... lots... of pics of rim fitment - ei on rimtuck - google it.

 

Rims and tires are more important for grip (straight line or in corners!).

Again... Rims and tires are more important for grip!!!! But that aside...

Get BC BR coilovers from Just Jap. This will all add up to 90% of the way to mad handling. I mean it.

Get rear camber arms and toe arms the least. Get all your arms and rods from GKtech. You can get bushes too (from eg Whiteline) but if you want to have a 'better' aliment your best with arms. You'll need this even if you lower your car a little.

Get front castor arms and rear traction arms too for a better alignment or if you lower it more then 30mm. That's all you need.

You may wish to get rear cradle bushes, but leave that for later.

You don't need aftermarket swaybars unless you plan on doing drifting. For a circuit (read: street) setup you don't need them.

But you may wish to get at least a tower brace for the front. Rear if your feeling loaded.

Get aliment to around 1.5-2deg front camber and 0.5-1deg rear camber, zero toe on the front, 2mm toe-in on the rear.

If you drop your car, drop it to cover no more then 'just' the top of your tire. Anymore and you will have clearance issues and will have to flare you guards. But I do recommend removing your inner guard lining in front of the wheels and slighly higher front end (so you don't have to use spacers).

 

This setup is good for track too.

 

As for the long argument of adjustable coilovers vs better spring and dampers:

Well adjustable coilovers let you 'pick' a prefect height, which is the main reason why most get them. You can't do this so accuratly with spring+dampers combos. Also BC coilovers are cheaper then most good spring+dampers combos, plus if you want to go nuts in the handling department (later on) you can eg corner balance your car.

 

For braking:

Just get better pads and matching rotors. You will not need anything more!

Matching rotors means if the pads 'like' slotted, then get slotted. QFM A1RM pads (from gslrallysport - goggle it) are great and they require slotted rotors for best performance.

They do take a little to warm up, but don't fade when hot. If you can't hack again, then go QFM HPX.

RDA rotors are the same as DBA, but cheaper. Again.. the same!

I Probably should say... no point in getting pads that flop out quickly if your going to get tires that require you to warm them up.

A brake master cylinder stopper will aid when your going hard, but leave that for later.

You don't need braided brake lines at the moment, it'll aid in feel only when your going nuts in breaking for age. So no need for street.

You don't need anything else in this department!

 

Why not more? Let me put in into perspective if you want to upgrade your brakes (incease you clamping force), such as with the common upgrade of R33 GTST/R32 GTR caliper+rotor front conversion (Note your insurance is void with this upgrade.). If you can lock up your front wheel with your current tires pretty easy now, your brake upgrade is useless (unless your tracking and you need a bigger discs to store heat better... don't worry about this now). I really do mean.. useless, in fact you might find it worse to drive. You need pretty grippy tires to 'not' be able to lockup so easy with the 'better pad + slotted rotor' upgrade.

 

Also...

You might want to get a oil cooler and relocation kit. This will add some extra capacity (the SR holds jack) and it'll help with the temperature increase you've got with the front-mount not too.

There is other things you can do, but you defiantly don't need a new radiator if your not tracking it.

 

Nor do you need anything else to change a S15 into a monster. That's pretty much it for a street setup, and you can track it to some degree too.

Aside from maybe interior things, which is just your personal taste.

For gauges, you don't need them for the street. Don't waste interior space! If you are just loaded, you would only "need" boost, oil pressure and water temp one. Nothing more.

 

 

Service your car regularly, take care of it, and it'll always be as reliable as your friends commo.

That means, changing your oil, oil filter and spark plugs (use copper) every 6,000km. Look in the service manual, there is also other things to service... I know ay... there is OTHER THINGS.

Use quality oils (referring to engine oil strongly), it's really important that you do this. Don't skimp on services. Or just don't own this type of car.

 

Don't drive like a f**kn idiot when there is people around....Don't drive like a f**kn idiot when there is people around.... yeah? Don't drive like a f**kn idiot when there is people around.

Don't add to the overflowing garbage bin. Save it for the track.

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These are the turbo scenes that are presenting the different options so that you may get more. In other ways edugeeksclub review is giving the highlighted way for presenting the option in all the ways.

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