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Rifleman

Things to do during engine out and clutch off?

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Hey guys, just about to pull my SR out and have my Os Giken clutch rebuilt and tend to a leak somewhere behind the head (guessing turbo return line) Anyway what are some good things to replace/refresh while the engine is out and what parts are good to replace while the clutch is off and and out?

 

Thanks guys

Jarrod

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Thrust bearing. Rear main seal. General clean up pretty much. Also check for mounts if still ok and if you want, upgrade to a solid steering bush. Easy to change when motor is out.

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Yea pretty much what FILL said. Do ya belts and stuff too. Easy enough while the engine is in but piece of piss when out.

Check ya rocker cover gasket too. The rear tend to leak if old. Again easy to change when engine is in but another cheap thing to do if required.

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Oil filter relocation kit is so much easier to do out of the car if you haven't got one already. You can replace the oil block o-rings at the same time too.

Edited by _R_J_K_

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To add a few more to the list:

 

- Replace the gearbox drain plug with a new one because they chew out (such a pita lol)

- Install Nismo clutch pivot ballstud if you haven't already

- Install oem needle bearing spigot bush

- Reroute the water lines that run behind the head so they're actually accessible with the engine in.

- Hammer the firewall to give more access to the upper gearbox retention bolts.

- Remove intake manifold and degrease inside

- Clean the IAC valve

- Replace your thermostat if needed

- Change front main seal and/or retorque crank pulley. Really easy to just bend up some bar to lock the crank with the engine out, and even easier if the flywheel is out being machined.

- Check torque on flywheel bolts if flywheel not out being machined

- Disassemble, clean and lube the starter motor. Absolutely worth your time.

- Run some additional lines from the starter motor, so you can directly wire it directly to the battery via a switch mounted in the engine bay (only connect the lines to the battery when needed). Makes for the easiest compression test ever, and is a good backup if your starter relay/circuit ever has issues (had to do this to every car I've owned at some point lol).

- Clean all engine earth points, just because it takes all of 2 minutes with the donk out

- Run 2-gauge wire to the boot if you plan on relocating your battery and have not yet done so

- Another vote for installing an oil filter relocation block, if you plan to do this

- Replace all your vacuum lines if they're old and suck. Replace with rubber lines, of course.

- Degrease steering rack because it's a bastard to do with the engine in

- Replace rack bushes if they're old

- Weld in a piece of square tube steel to brace the castor rod brackets (think Nismo power brace). Easy to do if sitting in the engine bay.

- If using a Greddy-style baffled sump, replace the shitty socket head grubscrew sump plug with a bolt head plug. I put an Imperial sump plug (common American size) on my JustJap knockoff Greddy oil pan for the princely sum of $2.30. Can now use a spanner on it, and no more leaks.

- If you've never done it to this engine, remove the oil pan, remove the pickup, clean out the strainer and seal it all back together.

Edited by pmod

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+1 for the relocation kit. Done mine while the head was off, would be damn near impossible to do with intake manifold on.

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So far from what I've seen getting the engine ready to come out is the belts are still good, rocker cover gasket is good but I'm going to paint the cover while its out, Nismo engine mounts are still perfect. Also going high mount turbo while the engine is out so also have to do everything associated with that. (FYI it's a track Sileighty)

 

Things Already Done

- Solid Steering Spacer

- Sump Plug

 

Things Already Planned

- Nismo Thermostat

- Oil Cooler & Relocation Block

- Oil Temp/Pressure Sensors

- Clutch/Flywheel Rebuild

- Battery Relocation to behind passenger seat.

 

Extra Things

- Thrust bearing

- Rear main seal

- Nismo clutch pivot ballstud

- OEM needle bearing spigot bush

- Reroute the water lines (Will asses this when I get to it)

- Clean the IAC valve

- Change front main seal and/or retorque crank pulley

- Disassemble, clean and lube the starter motor

- Clean Earth Points

- Check Vacuum Lines

- Check Rack Bushes

- Degrease Everything!

Edited by Rifleman

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replace the water/heater hoses under the plenum with fresh ones.

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