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maxmod

S13 Silvia Sports sedan

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Oh what a bugger! Sounds like you should be good to go with it. The joys of building something that doesn't exist

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Yeah it definetely sucked, i went to harrop today they have refunded my money which is good, it still doesn't solve the issue of my bellhousing though. So that could take a while to work out.

 

On a side note there Harrop hurricane manifold looks awesome so i should have one by the end of the week or early next week pics to come.

 

I have arranged to pick up and engine on friday it's only a dummy motor but it should be awesome to see it in the car!

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Call Osaka imports in knoxfield he had another 1sitting there good luck getting my price though I go there a lot. Mine was also without the lower trim pieces and things .

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Hey Negative, I got extremely lucky. I got one from 4x4spares in VIC - $350 - Dash + 2 lower garnishes (Passanger and drivers) + centre console. Bit of a stuff around, but I should have it all this week =) Just have to keep your eyes open and jump on bargains! Max, this car looks bloody amazing and what I would love to learn / do to mine - Sadly don't have the time or shed to do this work... Hopefully in the near future if I grab a 2nd shell =)

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Thanks it's definetely time consuming just to make the strut tops double thickness took around 2-3hours per side. That's probably the most simple and straight forward job on the car.

 

The one thing that's concerning me is mounting the diff but i'll face it when i get there.

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A great read of an ambitious build, thanks.

I'd be curious to know the $ and effort / time sunk into this if you're keeping track and want to share.

 

It will help give us all some perspective (and a reality check).

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Lol the dollars is something i could tell you the effort not so much it's probably got well over 1000 hours into it.

 

Straight dollars considering i have done basically everything myself i estimate the spend at around $65,000 This includes things like $11000 for the gearbox $18,500 for the motor with dry sump setup $5000 for the intake setup $3,500 for the diff. So that's almost 40K alone.

 

It all adds up very quickly. Realistically i think you could replicate what i have done so far for around $50,000. I have done alot of things twice like i had two SR20 motors which i lost money on when reselling etc.

 

I hope once i am totally done that means wheels slicks wing undertray and aero package i hope to get out of it for 90-100K

 

I've still got things like tailshafts and driveshafts to get made wiring looms alternators starter motors water pumps etc. It's only $500 here and there but it adds up quick. For the most part though the large outlays of cash is almost finished thankfully.

 

The nice part is every single piece of my drivetrain will be new or rebuilt so i shouldn't be having something break every week.

 

100K is alot of money and if i had the option im not sure i would do it this way again but i do enjoy building the car so i don't regret it. I am running against alot of cars with $300,000 + builds.

 

The scary part is i am only 23 thankfully i live at home have a fully paid for car from work so basically my entire income is dispossable. I am looking forward to finishing it and moving on to saving for a house.

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Hey buddy, just something on the loom, not sure its something you'd go for but GM Performance Parts do turnkey looms for their engines which include a full engine loom AFM sensor, o2 sensors, mounting bosses, drive by wire pedal (if its a drive by wire one) ecu, relay/fuse box.

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Thanks that's good to know, it might be something i could retrofit easier there are alot of companies that do looms but i am not confident they would be any easier to modify. Perhaps one from GM themselves might be the go. Although i don't think the wiring will be as complicated as wiring an SR20 there are so many wiring diagrams for LS motors out there.

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You're 23 and have pumped 100k into a track car with your own coin! Thats dedication to the sport!

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Yeah pretty much and I'm doing it all basically on my own now in terms of building and designing the car. Talking to a lot of race car builders does help a lot you pick up a lot of knowledge quickly of you listen.

 

Mind you I haven't pumped 100k yet I'm only up to 65k but I anticipate ill end up around 100k.

 

I keep thinking ill compromise in some area to save costs and never do its a disease.

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My weekends work, i made up two new bars to triangulate my strut towers. I will be putting in another two bars in this area to further improve it.

 

I also cut out the firewall so i can put the other two bars in place.

 

The firewall will be moved back so the rear towers are inside the car.

 

There's alot of work to be done. I picked up the dummy block on friday so i am just awaiting the bellhousing i purchased hopefully this week sometime.

IMAG0428.jpg

IMAG0581.jpg

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Can someone help me with measurements please i need them to be as accurate as possible.

 

I need the width front and rear of an s13 silvia. If you can please take the measurement across the boot and bonnet and as close to the centreline of the wheel as you can. It has to be a factory width car.

 

I am only allowed to go 100mm wider than factory i think for ease i am going to bolt on bolton flares over my wide guards and then take moulds. It might look weird but i hate bodywork and it slows my project down alot when i have to do it.

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Super stiff! Just go off the quoted factory measurements as I'm sure the scruiteeners won't have one on standby to check on

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Thanks good point i should do that.

 

I hope it will be super stiff i've got a fair few bars left to add in i am considering adding 1 from the top corner of the drivers side main hoop to the bottom corner of the passenger side front leg. So a diagonal bar across the centre of the car.

 

Also a cross in the foot well is probably going to be added to incase i have a big shunt it will force the engine under the car.

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Keep up the good work! Coming along nicely. I would've thought you'd gone tube/spaceframe chassis now that you have all those bars!

 

I was amused at how cheap and nasty my S13 is in comparison. For example, your gearbox costs what I've spent total on my whole car!

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I wish but space frame cars are a whole different cattle of fish I don't have the engineering degree or the program to tell me what needs to go where. It's a lot simpler to do it this way ill be interested to see what the car weighs in the end.

 

Value for money your well out in front! And your car runs so that's definitely a tick for you. I'm only going to be running state sports sedans ill leave national for the big budget guys.

 

I just want a fast car that doesn't break all the time it's a lot to ask for though.

 

I spoke to the engine builder his pretty confident on the high 600's to 700bhp so I'm excited.

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by the looks of things, I would say your cage will end up about as heavy as mine around the 70kg mark. I'll be keen to see what weight you can get your car down to, mine is still quite chunky at 1195kg wet and all I really have left to take weight from is side windows and body panels

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I can hope mine will be that light but just looking at the photos of your car I can count at least 8 bars at this stage you don't have and I plan to add another 4 so it could be heavy but it will be rigid so that's ok. It's a nice cage you have though I'd certainly be happy with that accept I like tinkering and can never make up my mind. It's a very nice car in general actually well done.

 

My planned weight is 1050kg's wet and 1130kg's with me in it.

 

I've got a dry carbon bonnet to help here and things it only weighs 4 kgs ill be cutting the rear of the car off and making it totally fiberglass so this should help as well.

Edited by maxmod

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Doubled up towers are now welded in and i have welded up the end caps on the rails with nuts welded on the back side to mount my nudge bar later on.

 

I've been teaching myself to TIG weld over the last month or so i am improving every day i do a bit more welding i learn something new. The photo quality isn't great but you can kind of see where i am up to.

 

At the start i was adding way too much filler so they looked more like smooth mig welds that Tig welds but now i am adding alot less filler and more heat to get better pooling and smaller flatter welds.

IMAG0583.jpg

IMAG0584.jpg

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Discussion time,

 

How does everyone think i should widen my car the hard way or the easy way.

 

I've got two options

 

Option1 i can cut my guards as they space them out, weld on some supports to hold them out 50mm's then fiberglass the gap and apply bog to get it smooth then take a mould. I would be cutting around half way down the rear guard and i'm not sure where on the front yet. I imagine it will look somewhat like a widebody STI i could be totally wrong though i am struggling to visualise it.

 

Option 2 i can buy bolt on flares modify them too suit bolt them on then take moulds of the whole guard with the bolt on flare. I'm not sure if this will look good or shocking.

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If your going to be doing moulds I'd go option 1 as the finish will look alot better. You could just bolt on the flares and call it a day and spend that saved cash and time on other things

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I could but being able to remove my guards effects me cutting the back of the car off or not. Which I think is pretty crucial to my build for the purpose of weight saving strength safety and ease of rebuilding.

 

Ill be taking the moulds myself so that saves some money there.

 

My only concern with option 1 is that I've done a few wide bodies now and it's something I always get stuck and bogged down on. It's just such a pain staking task adding each layer of bog and sanding it smooth until you get the desired shape.

 

I might have to buy some bolt on flares just to see what they would look like its $200 that could save me a massive headache or it could look terrible and it's $200 lost.

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if you buy the flares, and they don't look good, i'll buy them off you.

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i would go with option 1 - i think it would look better and having moulds made for ease of replacing when you get a smack in the bum is a top idea too.

 

i think option 2 would be good also but its been done before and might not be as effective if you really want the rear to be different also.

 

with your bogging delemma i always used to try and get every layer perfect - i soon learned that the layers you do only to fill the lows and make even with the highs so it can be as rough as long as you follow shape - final layer aim for perfection then final skim for the win

 

hats off to your effort and dedication dude

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Thanks for the tips,

 

I may be about to get seriously side tracked on this project. A car i've really wanted for a long time has become available in Sydney so i might have to direct some cash towards that if it's in the condition it's suppose to be in.

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What's required for the class?

The extended guard nas opposed to then flares will provide less drag/turbulence. That would seem to be in keeping with the rest of the car.

Flares only is the easy option. Looks well, that depends on you?

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