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Mase

Sil80, circuit racer

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I was originally selling this car, but haven't had time to finish building the new one as I work overseas so I ended up putting a few goodies on it and headed back to the track whenever I'm in the country. The car has been used for sprints, but now i'm moving to door to door racing after I had my first taste of it on the weekend in Top Gear round 1 at Lakeside and had some fun when the car eventually ran properly.

 

180sx with silvia front, vertex kit

SR20DET with T28, 184kw's on ECC's dyno

R33 brakes with Lukas TRW pads

HSD coilovers 8kg, 5kg with all adjustable arms

Jap cage with harness bar now added.

 

Car has lapped a 61.0 at Lakeside and a 59.8 at QR sprint.

 

More shortly.

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Edited by Mase

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So this week I had a harness bar installed, installed some new hsd coilovers, chopped the rear vertex bar up so it wasn't like a big parachute and put on my new 17 x 10 rpf1's with some used Federal semi's ready for Top Gear round 1 which was Saturday at Lakeside.

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Edited by Mase

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So as I mentioned earler I entered the Top Gear series on the weekend. Had a poor start to the day with my shifter popping out and not being able to select any gears. This happened in both qualifying and the first race so they were both DNF's. Second race I started last due to dnf and after having to avoid a falcon losing it into hungry I made it up to 6th position by the end of the race. Last race of the day I started 6th and went to 5th. The day was pretty disappointing with mechanical issues and the car very unstable but I learnt a lot of things about racing and ways I can improve for the next one. I had to write everything down on a bit of paper and sit it on the driver's seat as I won't remember what I need to fix when I come back in 8 weeks time!

 

List as it is now:

  • Window net so I don't have to race with my window up. By the 6th lap you've got sweat pouring into your eyes
  • Soften the dampers right up on the shock. The idea of this is because the car kept skipping so much, I want the shock to absorb any bumps a bit more and hopefully not lose traction as much
  • Paint the harness bar
  • Find a small spacer to install in the nismo short shifter. Mine is missing one and causing the shifter to pop out when selecting 1st and 5th.
  • Change the gearbox mount. It was difficult to get 4th gear going into hungry, and then after the eastern loop. In the video you can see me dropping off in these points where I've gone to change and it hasn't gone into gear.
  • Install a new fuse assembly for the thermos. Mine busted after the 2nd race and I bipassed the fuse just to do the next race
  • Buy some race numbers to put on the back 1/4 windows as it saves me 20 minutes of stuffing around each track day

Anyway pics attached, will try and host the video somewhere too.

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Edited by Mase

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Sounds good man. Would be good to have some pit help. Like my new rpf1's, 17 x 10 +18 all round this time :P

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hell yea mase, so awesome of you to step up and go door to door, brilliant work and look forward to having you in the outlaws field for more races this year :D

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If there's an outlaw day on and I'm in the country, I'll be there.

 

 

More to add to the fix list:

  • Put clear contact on the front headlights so I can leave it on there instead of taking electrical tape on and off each day
  • Put a switch on the speedo wires from the gearbox so I don't keep hitting rev/speed cut down the straight
  • Slit the bonnet and put a reverse vent in to help with cooling

Edited by Mase

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Don't use contact on the headlights. Once it has been in the sun it will never come off. Normal contact isn't strong or think enough. I ended up using a plastic scraper to get mine off.

 

This sort of thing would probably work better. http://solutions.3m.com.au/wps/portal/3M/en_AU/Scotchgard_Paint_Protection/Film/ don't know where you would buy it from though.

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just did this with my silvia, put duck tape over the headlight now they look horriable, gotta find a good way to remove it, good build should be orsem fun

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Thanks for the heads up mate. Maybe electrical tape might be the easier option for now!!

 

RPF1's are great. I have two sets.

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Yeah I think that's easier. Some people use that blue painters tape. It won't leave sticky residue on there when you pull it off.

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Spotted this little camera at duty free on the way out. It came with a waterproof housing and various other attachments, plus I bought the roll cage/handle bar mount as well. It was on special and $150 cheaper than the go pro 4 they had there so I thought why not.

 

I'll fit it to the cage when I'm back in Aus and see how it goes.

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do you have side intrusion? if not how were you planing on fitting the window net?

 

ive been puzzling over this for a while.

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I was thinking of welding the tabs onto the door and making them long enough to protrude through the door trim. It's not pretty but if it means I don't have sweat going in my eyes i'll do it.

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That was the only thing i could Come up with, hoping there was another way.

 

Did notice in one of the V8's on the weekend the net went cage leg to cage leg. That could be a option.

Edited by frenchie1001

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Yeah that's a point. Depending on what's available I could probably weld an anchor to the main hoop and another to where the cage dog legs around the dash. I will suss it out.

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Haha i'll give you a man cuddle when i'm back over Easter.

 

All of us haven't really had a big drink sesh in a while, must be time soon!!!

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Love looking at others builds threads - Jealous your out and about!

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Not quite, working overseas makes it quite difficult. This time I wrote a list down and left it in the car of things to fix and change so hopefully next time I get to race it I can beat my pb and be more consistent in my lap times to be more competitive in the races.

 

I'm thinking of taking the other S13 to a workshop so it can make progress while i'm away.

Edited by Mase

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Arrive in the country Friday, race on Sunday, can't wait.

Edited by Mase

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I raced with a few of the others at the third round of top gear today at Lakeside Park. I qualified 10th, first race I had two other cars spin in front of me and finished 12th, second race I passed a couple of cars but also had a couple DNF in front of me and moved up to 4th, then third race I kept the position.

 

I was running 225 front and 255 rear nitto nt01's and my fastest lap was a 60.8. Down the straight I'm hitting a speed cut at about 6300rpm in 4th and 5500rpm in 5th. I tried cutting wire 32 on the ecu (yellow with green stripe) but this didn't fix it so i'll need to look at other options as I think I could possibly do a flat 60 with this fixed. The car performed well with no overheating and no brake fade. I also got to try out my new camera and HANS device.

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Edited by Mase

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Good job Jase, getting mighty close to a 59 but I bet door to door racing is much more fun that clock watching anyway!

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I really like it. You forget about the stop watch and start to focus more on consistency and position and just hope the quicker time comes with it. I definitely miss my old SR though, i'm getting flogged on the straight.

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hell yes Mase, awesome drive to firstly finish all 3 and then nail 2x 4th places was just awesome, especially on tyres that i thought were pretty average but youre proving me wrong!

look forward to racing with you at more outlaws rounds this year :D

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Thanks for the kind words mate.

 

Ok after a bit of research it looks like the ECU has 3 speed cuts. One is taken from the speedo drive in the gearbox and feeds the ecu and cuts at about 180klm/h (I'd cut that wire already). The other two are 4th and 5th gear speed cuts. The 4th gear kicks in around 6300rpm, 5th gear at 5500rpm. This is exactly what I was experiencing. As it turns out though the automatic ECU's don't have this. So now i'm on the lookout for an automatic SR20DET ecu. I think the part numbers are either:

 

 

23710 50F10 (auto, "red top")

23710 50F11 (auto, "red top")

 

 

I'm also after a $50 drift wing for the back and i'll buy some ply for my front splitter when i'm back.

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Funny, snipping the ECU speed wire worked on my 95 180. Auto ECU could cause you more issues than speed cut - get Nistune, can tune AFR's, no speed cut, low cost - profit. Or grab a HKS speed cut defender - someone should be selling one for cheap somewhere.Tim

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Where do you wire the speed cut defender, last time I looked them up they intercepted the same wire I cut. That would get me past the 180klm limiter, but not where it's cutting out at the moment i don't think.

 

I had an auto ecu running a previous manual car with no issues so for $50-80 for a factory ECU i'm going to take the gamble because Nistune is about $700-900 for install and tune.

Edited by Mase

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