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ActionDan

Budget CA S13 Track Car - Upgrades time...

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The QFMs were fine besides the rotor wear, the Winmax aren't worth the extra $$ to me given how little power and rubber I have.

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Gave the centre a clean down and fitted the crown wheel with 2 of the sleeved bolts. but then ran out of suitable loctite so that was about the sum total of it all.

 

I was talking to a mate of mine who is diff savvy who said I'll need to do some test fitting to ensure proper alignment between the crown and pinion given the total width/heights are different.

 

That will be new to me so fingers crossed biggrin.png

 

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Edited by ActionDan

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let me know how it goes. been eyeing this mod for a while.

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Went out specifically just to get loctite... really wanna drive this car at some point lol

 

Also, stockin up on e85 for the GT-R soon, but think I'll stick with 98 for the Silvia unless some really cheap bigger injectors come up as I can't see the 460s going far.

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I was, but that sounds like a fairly loaded question so I assume there's eleventy reasons why I shouldn't...

 

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Haha. I too was planning on doing it myself, I bought all the available shims from nissan to get the backlash correct and everything. But after talking to a mechanic mate, he suggested I take it to a specialised gearbox and diff mob. He said it's a nightmare. You need a spreader to pull the housing apart to get the shims in, if you try and tap them in they shatter. Then there is getting the preload on the pinion correct and getting the gears to mesh correctly using blue dye and a dial indicator etc. I understand it is quite involved and required specialised tools.

Edited by JoELMaN

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Finished fitting the crown wheel and had a rough test fit of the centre into the housing. Things spin...

 

We'll see how I go with it, I have a mate who can help if needed.

 

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I did come across an issue last night though.

 

I thought R33 turbo rotors were supposed to fit the S13 hub? These foul on the little lip as pictured.

 

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Been so busy 0_0

 

So, grabbed a file and removed all that surface rust on the hub and have managed to get the rotors to fit to a point well enough where I think the wheel nuts should pull them on the last little bit.

 

Test fitted one side of the assembly back into the car, note a gap between LCA mounting points and the subframe, can't remember if I was just going to run washers for that?

 

Toe and camber are OK and I bought eccentric lockout bolts for those.

 

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a few washers or machine a sleeve with a spacer on the end to keep it all aligned properly.

are you using s14 sub frame with s13 arms?

 

need more updates on GTR

Edited by robbo_rb180

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Machining not an option for me, no tools/skills. Washers it is. Bolt holes are the same so it shouldn't move around.

 

I have a build thread on SAU, just finished touching up the tune after ironing out a few little bugs your naturally get when you change 50 things.

 

Mounting the plate was interesting, I ended up going a custom setup. Also putting nutserts in a fibreglass bar for the V-spec lip was nerve racking.

 

Final tune ended up at 334 ish rwkw on e85 and 315ish on 98 (on a mainline dyno). Only running -9s as I didn't want anything too laggy, as it is it's probably not as responsive as I'd like but it takes a lot of work for a 2.6 to spin up 22psi

 

 

God the Haltech is good. Can change bits and pieces myself, created a valet tune, etc.

 

Also have a full drum of e85 now too, filled it in Wagga. Am also campaigning united to put it on in Wodonga. I may yet still move the S13 to e85 also...

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Went to start car can't. Getting zero voltage on the battery as soon as I open the circuit (try to start the car).

 

Battery measures 12.7v when tested by itself, but as soon as I move the earthing point to anything other than the battery, I get 0 volts.

 

Help plz lol

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Bad neg terminal, sorted now.

 

Will pull my finger out soon and get the ass end back in it.

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Pulled finger out, fitted left side suspension.

 

Had to clearance subframe a little with angle grinder to fit those brackets that attach from the front of the subframe to the chassis. No biggy.

 

Found out the toe arm adapters only fit V3 gktech toe arms and not my V2s so a trip to bunnings is in order for washers to space the LCA's and toe arms.

 

A mate is dropping by to assist with the diff setup. Then it's back to the front end to fit new king pins and tie rod ends.

 

Been too busy tooling around with GT-R, buying headstuds to run more boost (and maube go to pods and remove mid muffler for more noise all round) and if that doesn't satisfy me, might go single.

 

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Had a fiddle with washers, it's a bit of a pain. Using the toe arm mount as an example, I can't pack enough in there so that when tightened up there's absolutely no noise/freeplay of the arm on the bolt. There's the tiniest amount of noise that can be heard as I shake the arm back and forth. It could even be the bushes that slot into the sphericals.

 

I imagine having all the mounts reinforced actually stops them coming in enough to take up that slack. I may have to pry open the mount a little to get an extra washer in there then tighten it all up. We're talking a minuscule amount of movement once tightened but still you'd think it should be zero.

 

In much better news, I found a full set of the same rims I have for cheap, which means I can have a full set of 9" and run 255s all round. Then sell off the left over 8" set. They're purple though so will need a spray and I might run some rays sticks on them for lols.

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Could also just remove one washer and stack a thicker washer on the end to fill the gap without prying the mounting point.

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Nah you're not getting me.

 

I can't fit any more washers in the space without prying it open a bit, it's too tigh to slip anything else in there and when it's "full" there's still a tiny bit of play after tightening the nut and bolt.

 

I even slipped a tiny crush washer in there to help.

Edited by ActionDan

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Rims arrived. Lips look to be in good nick.

 

There's a track day coming up early August that I'd love to get to in either car, see how we go.

 

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I'm still alive, just been busy with GT-R (added plazmaman and pods then retuned, now 354rwkw and 1021Nm, drives nice).

 

Had a mate come around who's a diff guru, so progress has started on that again. Centre is in the housing now, just measuring backlash and torquing up.

 

Still farting around with washers for control arms, wondering if I should just buy stock S14/S15 LCAs, traction rods, and some cheaper after market camber arms (toe arms have adapters that make them a nice fit).

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Rather than washers, the easiest option might be to measure the gap and hole with some vernier calipers, send the specs to a machining shop and get them to turn up two mild steel rings to those specs, bolt the arms in and get a muffler shop to hoist the car and tack them in place. You would then never have to worry about the arm rotating on the washers, and wouldn't have to worry about losing washers. If S15 LCAs won't increase the track, then that's obviously the path of least resistance, assuming you're against washers.

 

To be fair, washers aren't what you really want when running rubber bushes, as they're not supposed to rotate, the arm is supposed to deflect the rubber down a little [from a fixed position].

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I'm not against washers, I just feel there' shouldn't be any movement when tightened and given each mounting bracket has been reinforced they don't deflect much when tightened to take up the tiny bit of slack I can hear.

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Correct, the steel liner of a rubber bush shouldn't rotate once bolted in. That's the goal of the tacked mild steel disc I was suggesting, or just go oem S15 arms to match the subframe.

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Hmm, more testing needed with all that free time I don't have *thumbs up*

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Looking at the S15 RLCA option.

 

Can't confirm if the balljoints fit?

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Rear ball joints should be the same. Only the S13 front ones are different from any other S chassis.

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Bought S15 RLCA and Traction arms.

 

Will take a look at the current camber arms and see if the toe arm spacer could be used as a template to make another one suitable.

 

If not, will get s15 adjustable camber arms an be done with it.

 

Started the car the other day, forgot the fuel guage is busted.

 

Most common cause of that? Sender? I did inspect it but found nothing visually obvious.

Edited by ActionDan

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Waiting on Shamrock to get back to me, looks like they sent me 2 different LCAs, one has metal bracing underneath it, the other has some weird plastic insert.

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OK so mostly finished stuffing around with the GT-R. Made 354kw and 1021Nm at the wheels and looking fine. Going in today for tints and have a few interior dress up bits coming. May put cams in it yet.

 

Shamrock sent me two matching and LCAs and said keep the others, score. Fitted traction rods and noted they look identical to the S13 ones I removed so wasted my money there lol

 

Removed top nut on ball joint but didn't have time to split it and remove. Tested bush inserts on toe arms, fits perfect.

 

GT-R pics because why not.

 

Will start chippin away at this again and get it out there for some laps. Also going to take the GT-R to a test and tune day so I can open it up a bit.

 

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