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ActionDan

Budget CA S13 Track Car - Upgrades time...

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Yeah I worked that part out, Shamrock were fine when I said I wanted matching braced ones both sides.

 

Touching base with my diff guy again so I can get some momentum going.

 

Alignment will be interesting after all this shit.

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GTR looks exceptional. You have excellent taste, and no shortage of patience too, I would expect.

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Diff guy told me that it should be good to go. I just had him check it all over asI don't know shit about putting diffs together.

 

It ended up with just under .19mm backlash/freeplay whatever that's called. I think max factory is .15mm but he said the enagagement was good and for a track car it will be fine. Just don't smash from reverse to 1st/vice versa and dump the throttle.

 

Still spending more time on the GTR than this, but I'll keep plugging away.

 

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Stop the press, diff is back at home. Will clean gasket surface and put the cover on.

 

Might get some more done on this while I keep trying to find a condenser for the 34.

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Had a few mins spare last night but couldn't separate the ball joint from the hub to swap the LCAs so popped the diff in instead - bit by bit we'll get there :)

 

There's a track day soon but I wont make it as there's too much to do and I'm going away for a week shortly.

 

I would love to get a day in before it gets too hot.

 

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Nice work; great to see the diff saga come to an end! We will await your test results. :)

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Got he ball joint out using a tip a mate told me, which was basically where to hit the hub and it literally comes out on its own. He also told me the ball joint nut is the same thread as the diff mounts and so happy days that's done also.

 

Driver side buttoned up, just need some pads now, remembered I still have some A1RM fronts so I might just buy some fresh rears (I swapped to TRW pads all round when the rears were gone, but I don't love the feel).

 

I'll check pricing and make a call - budget racing.

 

I'll keep chipping away and get the passenger side done, then I need to get the front end up swap to braided lines, bleed the whole thing, then I would like to put some new holes in the front LCA mount to increase the track by the same 5mm each side the rear increased by with the subframe swap.

 

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A mate of mine down the road has the TRW pads for $70, can't say no to those. If they're no good then I might go above A1RM and get some more serious pads.

 

I was just thinking that it's never felt better than the first time I used A1RMs, but to be fair I was also using some old RE55s then and not the RS-Rs.

 

Which reminds me, I still need to get those rims all painted up to match and get some new 255s - will just be RS-RRs or something similar for this power.

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I've put them on my car but haven't driven on them so can't comment on that. Only thing I can say is that they are very wide for a 255. Almost a 265, plenty of width.

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Those Nankangs are a death trap a mate used them once on his 33 and it was actually scary how shit they were, zero progression to breaking traction also.

 

Width I was aware of from the 235s, I am a bit concerned about guard clearance but thought that I could just cut the guard and run a cheap bolt on flare.

 

Made some solid progress this weekend. The short version is I basically have the entire rear end back in and tightened up with a bit of work to do on the exhaust and waiting on rear pads to arrive this week.

 

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I could not get the rotors to sit flush on the hubs for some odd reason, in the end I had to take the angle grinder out and smooth/flatten out the hub edges and surface and that sorted it. I thought it was the rotor itself and tried to clearance the centre bore and the stud holes without success and lots of fucking around.

 

In knocking the wheel studs out to get a good angle on the hub they were slightly damaged just enough to/tired threads to warrant new ones, luckily I had a few spare new ones. You can see my genius anti rotation setup.

 

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Exhaust hangers will need some modifying, this is when I wish I had a welder.

 

This one needs to be turned around.

 

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I will move one of the other hangers to this point and use this pickup.

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Edited by ActionDan

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Picture rotations are doing weird shit and forum won't let me edit the post.

 

Forum is gettig a bit buggy I've noticed.

 

Anyway, some exhaust hanger work to do.

 

Also thinking about swapping out rear sway bar as I feel like it was too big for the car (R32 GTR).

 

Will an S14/S15 bar fit given I'm running that subframe and RLCA?

 

I'm assuming it's a bit bigger than the factory S13 one?

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Can't comment on the bar, but I can say that if you open the Edit button in a new tab, you should be able to edit the post. I middle-click on links with my mouse to open links in new tabs in Firefox, and that's the only way I've been able to edit my posts. I've been told the forum framework is to be upgraded early 2017, so try that in the meantime.

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That works, thanks.

 

Any tips for getting email notifications going again?

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Dont buy AR1M pads. get anything else.

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I didn't, but I don't get the hate anyway, they worked well for me.

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the QFM HPX pads are cheaper, 90% less dust and function exactly the same.

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Fair enough - I bought the TRW pads as that's what's in the front and they were cheap also.

 

After doing a bit more reading, I might go back to the stock rear bar I think.

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I didn't, but I don't get the hate anyway, they worked well for me.

 

I think a lot of the hate came from people like me who bought A1RMs when folks were talking them up, only to find that they were absolutely terrible.

 

I changed brakes from stock 180sx single-pot calipers with EBC Reds at the front (iirc) that had many years of wear, to R33GTS-T calipers at all corners, R34 BMC, HEL braided brake lines, used machined rotors and A1RM pads. The brakes were not just worse than the original single pot brakes with regard to their initial bite, they were so weak it felt downright dangerous at times, and they never improved with time and heat. I could not lock the wheels in the dry (that's running cheap Falken Zeix 235/45R17s btw, not semis), they pumped out so much dust they turned my black wheels a black/brown colour, and with light pressure on the brake pedal, they shrieked like a banshee.

 

Based on Johnny's recommendation I bought Intima SRs (long before he started selling them), and since my rotors were too close to the minimum thickness to machine again, I bought a full set of DBA 4000 T3 Slotted rotors. I'd upgraded everything else, so why not rotors too? Now my brakes actually work like they should for the money I've spent.

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Interesting. My first experience with them was excellent, They would easily lock the RE55s I was running. That was with 4 pot front calipers and a BM50 but everything else standard.

 

My main issues rotor wear, they wiped the slots out of my front rotors.

 

Hopefully, the TRWs with brake vents, better booster, and braided lines all round plus the R33 rear calipers will be nicer.

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yeah, thats what i didnt like about AR1Ms too. rotor wear was obscene.

 

HC800s are better with a lot less rotor wear (still dusty and way noisier however)

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I'll just be happy to turn some laps, though I have already been eye balling other track cars... something lightweight and NA would be nice for a number of reasons, but an Evo would be good too...

 

As would an S14...

 

To much time and money in this though.

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after owning a turbo car and tracking it, i would rather own a MX-5 or something just for track use.

 

going too track with a street car just makes it uncomfortable and annoying.

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Yeah I'm talking dedicated track car only.

 

MX5s get a lot of praise.

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Who's running 255s all round on an s13?

 

I was wanting to do this but the more I look into the more I'm finding how much of a pain it is.

 

Cut guards - so need flares.

Can't run guard liners - risk to oil cooler.

Wheel offset has to be correct for shock clearance - new rims/spacers which are a no no on a track car.

Etc.

 

Then I see Taleb having a sale on AD08Rs for 600 a set in 235 and I think maybe I should just stick with that size.

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Sorry they're A050s

Edited by ActionDan

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I have looked in the to 255 fronts on the s13 there is a bit of work however it is possible.

 

I think you would need a 9" rim with a minimum of +22 offset.

I currently run a 255 rear with 225 front. It seems to work well enough the car is fairly balanced.

 

If you can get a set of Advan A050's for 600 can you send me a link. Has been too long since i have had my car out but planning on getting back into it next year just need some new boots for the car

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