Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
AE86557

Slowvia s14

Recommended Posts

Glad you've had good results with it but there will come a point when the toe out results in less grip.

 

Dan those pads won't last long on a high speed track with a quality semi slick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that is true, but you have to understand with more negative camber, gains more toe out,

 

Wouldnt bringing the strut top inwards (gaining camber) also reduce the tow out?

Where the tie rod attaches to knuckle, this would also move inward, not as much as the top of the strut, but still inward.

 

Anyway, sweet build, and if you can nudge a 1.07 a wakefeild, that is moving!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

to be honest, i dont know, but what i do know is it works for me. obviously i dont go demon camber but a little more helps when required, or a little less..i just set a base alignment for my own street preference and then do touch up camber adjustment depending on the track, which is only Wakefield that ive driven on so far but what works for me when im behind the wheel works for me and on that note

 

Next track day is on! Wakefield private day 30/09/2012

 

Plans before track day

 

DBA 4000 rotors all round

Ferodos ds2500 all round

try to book in Heasman Steering to do full weight balance wheel alignment, the lot i guess

 

1:08 possible, aiming for 1:07!! and if i get that on the day, i'll turn up the boost to 14psi from 10-11psi and see how much faster i can go

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice work with the s14 mate going good at the track looking forward to the next track day see if you can break the 1:07 :), planning on doing some track time in mine soon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

j8nq.jpg

 

Just tuned my car to be 300kmph! lol trollz

 

I have the stock white background version that came with the car and i've never really liked it to be honest (looked too Ladbrosexspecstyle), I'd rather the stock black background one but stumbled upon these and it was way too cool not to buy.

 

these stock factory option gauges would pull a premium before trackwars.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So i finally received my K's cluster and gauges from the postman

also bought and received midnight mod short shifter because i dislike the long throw s chassis boxes comes with

Front Ferodos DS2500 for Evo brembo acquired

DBA 4000 Evo rotors acquired

serviced the car with motul oil and new oil filter, was overdued for one

painted my R33 GTR track wheels gloss black to make it look half decent

 

 

the plan was to get DBA and DS2500 all round but money is an issue and its really unnecessary on the rears i think also, so either just leave it as it is or just get RDA rotors with newer better pads as it needs it anyway but whatever, shouldn't be an issue and im not overly worried or thinking much about it.

 

been a while since ive hit the track so im super keen for it!

Edited by AE86557

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same din gauges in my car, can you let me know how you made the boost gauge work? I know you need a sender unit which I have my the wiring is doing my head in lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Coming from drifting, and now having actually done a grip day i stand by you'd have to be the biggest nuppty to even crash doing sprints or something.

 

I really hope you said that just fishing for a bite rather than actually thinking that.

I'm serious. Even pushing super hard your still totally in control of the car. Racing would be different. But if your chasing the clock and you roll your car it's all for the best and you should take up knitting.

Yeah all the pro's that have crashes are just such lame drivers.... amateurs .........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same din gauges in my car, can you let me know how you made the boost gauge work? I know you need a sender unit which I have my the wiring is doing my head in lol

 

well i had a quick look around this weekend to see if there was the stock plug and as expected, there was none. which means i would have to manually wire everything up from scratch, so what i did was packed it up and stored it away. was not going to waste my whole weekend trying to make it work

 

i'll have to do more research first before any attempts to install it, as always it usually ends up from where i started and a lot of time wasted for nothing lol

Edited by AE86557

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same din gauges in my car, can you let me know how you made the boost gauge work? I know you need a sender unit which I have my the wiring is doing my head in lol

 

well i had a quick look around this weekend to see if there was the stock plug and as expected, there was none. which means i would have to manually wire everything up from scratch, so what i did was packed it up and stored it away. was not going to waste my whole weekend trying to make it work

 

i'll have to do more research first before any attempts to install it, as always it usually ends up from where i started and a lot of time wasted for nothing lol

Oh okay, let me know how it goes!

 

Because I really cant see who you could wire it up if you dont have a boost sensor unless the stock solenoid will do it?

 

Ive been lazy to working mine out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i should mention mine actually came with the boost sensor and also the oil pressure sensor to match, im just lazy to figure out what wire is what because it'll be a few hours i rather do something else with lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i should mention mine actually came with the boost sensor and also the oil pressure sensor to match, im just lazy to figure out what wire is what because it'll be a few hours i rather do something else with lol

Lucky, whenever you do get it working please post up how you did it. Im subbed to your thread so I should see it pop it :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the long awaited track day is over and there is no new personal best time to be had.

 

1.09.3 was the fastest i could get on the day (0.2 slower), and that was in the early morning.

after a few tyre pressure checks and damper setting changes, camber etc and more laps getting use to the changes, the car slowly started to fall into place, petrol tank was getting empty and the car started to feel a little better here and there. i was driving already at 90% all morning so i knew i had a little more in me as the car started to settle down and it felt good at the time. Did a few passenger runs as friends and the times were slipping away into the low 1:10s now, the day was at its peak temperature and the tyres, well like any other tyres they weren't at 100% grip like brand new but still more then enough, as always with passengers your just out there to have fun, racing other cars and having a ball

 

sadly we were having too much fun and as i pulled into the pit lane to let the car cool (after cool down laps) before i went out for some real time attack, the clutch decided to not let go of the flywheel and that was the end of my day.

 

i would say that will be my last track day for 2013 i think. spent way too much money this year already when i wasn't suppose to lol.

 

some highlights of the day

SX Development s15 was there on the day,

 

had a quick chat the guys (nice people and easy guys to chat to) and checked out the car, they now hold the fastest S chassis record now i think, i didnt get to watch but i did get overtaken by the s15 LOL, its so much better watching from the driver seat then on a youtube clip.

 

JDMyard DC5R

since it was their private track day and close mates of mine, they were out there testing too. again a pleasure to be overtaken by them on the main straight, you dont know how fast they are going until you realise your doing 150kmph and they fly past you.

 

S chassis battle

lost count of how many S chassis car that attended, s13, 180sx, s14, s15.. half the filed were S chassis!!

 

no videos from me

no photos from me

to busy having fun, but i'll post some up when they start to float around facebook and forums

Edited by AE86557

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's both good and bad news, you had fun, but broke something.

 

Care to elaborate on the clutch not letting go of the flywheel comment? The clutch is always in contact with the flywheel unless you're pushing the pedal in?

 

What's actually wrong? It might just be a simple fix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so when the car is turn on, gear is neutral, press the clutch in, still cant put it into any gear

turn the car off, you can select any gear with or without clutching

 

put it in 1st gear with the car off, hold the clutch down to act as neutral, turn the car on, the car will drive forward in gear 1, clutch is still pressed down, so gears are always engaged

 

we did a quick clutch bleed at the track and it didn't help or do anything.

 

My brother said it might just be the clutch slave that shit itself so will try that and if its not then its back to plan a and take it all out..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Then that's a pressure plate actuation issue. Either the pressure plate is damaged and not allowing the clutch plate to release or the carrier/thrust bearing/pivot ball combo is stuffed and not applying pressure to the pressure plate fingers. Or random one is that the clutch fork is busted.

 

Pretty much all are box off jobs, but they're all easy fixes.

 

If it's anything besides the pressure plate it'll be cheap too.

 

Stock clutch?

Edited by ActionDan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah stock from what i believe, im not surprised, it was going to happen sooner or later

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In which case if the pressure plate is a cactus then you will want a new clutch kit so depending on your power etc can add up quickly.

 

That said, plenty of people run the cheaper Xtreme clutches and they're fairly cost competitive. I've got one, but haven't driven it in anger yet, plenty of my mates who drift use them too.

 

Here's your basic upgrade kit. These are good for 230 or so rwkw I think I remember reading somewhere.

 

http://www.ebay.com....094a0dc9&_uhb=1

 

That comes with most of what you're likely to need, you might want to replace the clutch pivot ($5) and you will have to machine the flywheel if you do replace the clutch ($30 or so from a local brake shop) You can also choose to put new flywheel bolts in if you want (recommended) ARP ones are 60-75 or so or you can buy new stock ones from Taark or a local Nissan.

 

Or it could just be the throw out bearing/pivot ball or the fork, but if you're pulling the box already and the clutch is stock I'd be inclined to replace it anyway.

 

If you're mad keen, I also rebuilt my slave and master, kits are very cheap to do this and it's a very simple job for some extra piece of mind.

 

I'm not sure if SRs have a clutch damper like CAs but if it does, remove it while you are doing this work.

Edited by ActionDan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could be same issue I had where the clutch welded itself to the flywheel from the heat. Same issues as described.

 

30s962t.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah that's a possibility too, though I'd of thought that was a really rare occurrence unless you'd just done a vicious drift session and came straight into the pits and let it sit there and cook (like brake pads)

 

Assumed when he mentioned cool down laps that shouldn't have been an issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At a matsuri at Raleigh I spun out after about 10 to 15 mins of clutch kicking, and the engine stalled. So I put it in neutral and started the engine. Put the pedal in, and tried and tried to put it in gear, but it wouldn't go in. Got towed around to my tools, pulled the gearbox off, pulled the clutch off, and saw that the clutch plate had welded itself to the pressure plate. We pulled it off, cleaned up the material deposits off both faces, slapped it all back together and went to smash more skids AND second gear the next day lol.

 

There was another guy that it happened to as well, but since he now knew what it was that was the issue, he did this:

 

I definately will be doing this if it happens again, so I won't have to pull the damn gearbox off! He started the car in first gear, accelerated up to about 20 km/h, put the clutch pedal in, then ripped up the handbrake lever. The clutch then disengaged and he could then smash more skids.

 

Although, my clutch pads aren't riveted on, theyre glued I think? So I don't know how my clutch disk would fare, damage wise, after that quick fix if it were riveted.

Edited by Nomnomnom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not too surprised if it's drift related, but if it's a track day and then he does cool down laps I'm a bit more surprised.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Indeed... But clutch cool down should be done with the clutch disengaged so it's in free air to cool. But then again I wouldn't think that it would slip very much in circuit racing, unless it's got a massive scrotum, filled with testicles, or there's not enough pressure in the clutch. Shouldn't really get hot unless it's slipping

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The clutch is never in "free air", either its being pushed against the flywheel by the pressure plate, or you press the pedal and it will slide back from the flywheel but still be acted on by the pressure plate.

 

Having the box in neutral does nothing for clutch contact, only the pedal being pushed in affects it's location.

 

I've never ever seen anybody try and "cool down" a clutch by holding the pedal down to keep the surface away from the flywheel. Cool down laps are just driven at normal pace so everything can cool down naturally, nobody drives around then holds the pedal down to cool the clutch.

 

If you are welding the clutch to the flywheel you are generating too much heat and are using the wrong spec clutch for your driving style/abuse.

 

My 2 cents :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

old used stock clutch and driving it like a boss would be my issue lol

 

good info from you guys. whats done is done, and a new clutch was the next thing to do anyway

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since this is a build thread I'm not going to argue with anyone about the mechanics of a clutch. But yes, you are right, the clutch disk type would be incorrect for the application

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can PM me, if I've said something wrong/stupid, I'd rather know.

 

My guess is I've taken what you are trying to say wrong, or you're misinterpreting what I'm saying, either way no biggy :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×