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Nomnomnom

Gary's S14A.

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Position of 4- way distribution block

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Plumbing stainless steel 3/16 tube

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I actually decided to re-do the ENTIRE car's brake lines in stainless. What a pain that was. But it looks pretty sweet.

 

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The inlet looks a bit better than this one. I made 4 of them as I was not happy with the first 3

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Edited by Nomnomnom

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Next up is the mounting of the new NUKE surge tank and the walbro lift pump

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The tank has two walbro 460 pumps inside.

 

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Over last weekend we transported the car from my parents place to my new place so now I can actually put some hours into it.

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Got the new radiator fittings welded on and I installed the radiator in place of the eBay special one.

Ooh lovely koyorad.

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Made up the hoses for the inlet and outlets only to find that the thermostat housing makes sure that I won't be able to run the water pump and alternator belt if I install as is. Damn it.

So now I'm considering either putting an idler for the belt, mounted to the alternator bracket so that the belt will clear the thermostat housing inlet fitting.....

OR

Doing an electric water pump conversion.

 

Mmmmmmm

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Thoughts???

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Thoughts???

 

Ditch the thermostat housing and do what everyone else that runs braided lines does, namely cut the end off the stock alloy thermostat housing and weld a threaded bung to it. It makes no sense to run that unit given all the problems, and the stock path probably flows better better that hard 90 degree fitting anyway. Reinvent the wheel as little as possible if you can.

 

Not sold on the oil cooler mount either. Sure it keeps it away from impact, but what's the point? You have a perfect sidemount location that's unused, and it's easy to mount it there given it's a tube front end. You have also angled the radiator and kept the FMIC straight, when imo it makes more sense to implement an open v-mount with the cooler at the top. The whole point of a tube front is to place parts where they'll perform best, isn't it?

 

In saying that your workmanship is great, the choicesjust seem a little odd to me, that's all.

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Ahah. Yes it would make sense to get rid of the thermostat housing and solve my problems.

So at the moment, im actually using an adapter which bolts onto the thermostat housing that has a -16AN male fitting on it with the 3 bolts. It is however a straight attachment instead of angled like the factory pipe end.

I believe mazworx do an offset one which is still a straight mount which may solve the issue. Pretty sure mine is from taarks. Might contact him.

 

Edit: Actually, I prefer your idea of welding a bung to the end of the stock housing.

 

As for the oil cooler, it is actually in the best position imo. It's not there to keep it away from frontal impacts but it is there for high volume air flow. I will be ducting air directly through the intercooler, then the radiator, then the oil cooler and straight out the top of the bonnet. If I were to mount it off to one side, I think that airflow would be compromised. It is a bonus also that hot air out the top of the car gives an aerodynamic advantage, so there will be ducting out the bonnet and a spoiler in front of it to create a low pressure area in the opening of the duct.

Edited by Nomnomnom

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Taarks sells a spacer to be used with the AN16 thermostat housing - http://www.taarks.com/product_p/taark-waterinspacer-sran16.htm

 

"Water In Thermostat Spacer "SR20 to AN16"

CNC machined from billet 6061-T6 aluminum this spacer bolts between the engine block and thermostat housing for added clearance of the fan belt when using our AN16 thermostat housing while retaining the mechanical water pump. This spacer is not needed if you have converted to electric water pump."

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Yeah sweet. That looks like it would work. The only thing I would be unsure of is then the clearance between the thermostat housing and the lower intake runners as it is a bit tight.

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Little block I made for the vacuum regulator mount. Bolts to the right hand strut tower. Needs 2 ORB bungs welded in still.

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Also got my fuel lines plumbed up.

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Not shown in the photos, but the pressure and return lines are mounted under the car alongside the drivers side chassis rail. I will probably look at putting some sort of protection under them so they don't get torn up from gravel traps etc.

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I did end up getting that thermostat spacer. It worked a treat. I did however need to file part of the lower runner to allow the part to bolt up.

Thanks heaps for that advice "1200 ute"!

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Scary stuff right here.

Started cutting the rear quarters for diffuser etc.

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Just awesome! I really want to cut off the back of my car as well. Haven't mustered enough courage to do so yet.

It really is the ultimate way to ensure a rear diffuser fits and works properly.

 

Love your work, keep it up!

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Just awesome! I really want to cut off the back of my car as well. Haven't mustered enough courage to do so yet.

It really is the ultimate way to ensure a rear diffuser fits and works properly.

 

Love your work, keep it up!

 

Oh believe me, it took a LONG time to muster up the courage to cut that much off an external body piece.

And yeah, that's the idea anyway. Hopefully I can make it work well. Should be PLENTY of room now though.

Cheers mate. Really means a lot.

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Awesome build mate 👍

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Thanks man. 

 

Wow or have we come a long way or what!?

 

Getting keen again. Not long now (for the hundredth time). 

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