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Grant McGrath

My part's and upgrade suggestions?

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This will be my first post. Appreciate any ones time/input.

I have a 200sx s15 spec r with 3" turbo back exhaust and front mount inter cooler.

I have been slowly purchasing peformence parts that I see repeatedly getting recommended on this site and other forums. I have tried to research as much as possible to make sure I purchased the right stuff lol!

 

Here is my list of parts (not installed)

 

Walbro 255L intank fuel pump

 

750cc Bosch Injectors, E85 compatible

 

sr20 big bore fuel rail kit High Flow Top-feed injecetor setup

 

Garrett GT2871R-56T Turbo

 

Custom high polish intake manifold/plenum

 

apexi power fc with hand controller

 

Is there ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS/RECOMMENDATIONS people have for this set up e.g. other peformence parts, tuning suggestions, expected power ect

 

Appreciate everyones time and comments.

 

 

 

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should have gone the walbro e85 spec pump, injectors will be on their limits if you want to wind up the turbo, power fc is outdated, something like a haltech would be 100x times better...

 

what intake manifold is it? if it is a big plenum with short runners don't bother with it. they are no good for a turbo that small.

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Hi mate, theres nothing wrong with apexi power fc's, yeh they are a bit old now but are proven and alot of people use them including me.

My advice with that turbo would be use ordinary 98 fuel and stock manifold. You will have a nice guttsy car and decent fuel economy. Tuned properly when you drive off boost you will use leas fuel than standard.

Edited by S15 sxytime

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750cc injectors will be running at there limits really I thought they were more than enough??

yeh I knew the power fc is out dated but alot of people have had success with them and I didnt have the cash to fork out with a Haltec.

well by the looks of things bling I have purchased rubbish lol. I went through so many topics and forums and I thought this was a decent setup.

What should i be doing now? any thoughts

 

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I would recommend Nistune over pfc if you cannot afford better ecu as its cheaper for the same functionality.

 

Also if you are planning to take your car to the track get yourself an Oil cooler - wasting track time on cool-down laps is annoying...

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i'm assuming you are running e85? then yeah.

 

best to check the thread dates when researching on forum too

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Ditch the E85 in preferece for 98 octane, get a decent radiator, braided turbo lines, Nismo engine mounts, fit the parts and get a tune. You haven't bought rubbish, you just haven't bought the right parts to run E85, which is a bit of a White Elephant anyway imo. If your polished intake plenum is one of the eBay units that replaces just the upper half of the OEM S15 intake manifold (same as factory but chrome) then it's fine. Bling was referring to the Greddy-style units that replace both halves of the manifold with a tiny blob.

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Its just a street carand I just wanted it to have some balls!the parts listed is what I've already purchased.

so I was just wondering if there are so basic parts/mods I should get, do or buy?

No im just running normal 98 octane just got e85 compatible injectors.

 

boost you seem to be in most topics and I know im a complete novice to this but for just a bit of fun is this package alright or what parts/ work do you think I should do with this

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I wasnt looking at running e85 it's too much money to run your car lol! I just mentioned the injectors were compatible :) yeah I just got top half ebay plenum didn't think they did much just put it in the list.

So upgrade the radiator, oil cooler anything else?

Thanks again for everyone's input I'm trying not to be a complete nube so any explinations ide appreciate to so I'm not asking silly questions all the time

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Add a Z32 AFM and that's about it as power mods are concerned. Fit everything and get it tuned, albeit you'll want to install the injectors and AFM upon arrival at the tuners. If your cat is dodgy then you might want to replace it with a 3" metal cat, but otherwise you could always get a test pipe in case the tune goes badly and the tuner takes the usual path of pointing a finger at the cat, so you can swap it over then and there.

 

Any other mods will depend on whatever specific requirements you have for the car, or specific aesthetics in mind. It's a given that the car be serviced and any damaged or worn parts replaced before getting it tuned, like sensors, filters, etc. I would strongly recommend replacing the turbine housing and manifold studs/bolts and getting new turbo->manifold retention tabs.

Edited by pmod

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Yeh I just got a z32 with tomei plug. Thanks for the input pmod. I have no specific goals in mind for the car I just want it to be as fast as possible while still being reliable. So with the parts i purchased when installed anyone have a aprox rwkw they think I would see? When I start looking at suspention and other parts on the car what do you think I should look at first?

Cheers again :)

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i'm running the following:

GT2871R

power FC

740cc injectors

z32 AFM

bosch 040 fuel pump

3" turbo back exhaust

intercooler

pod

 

on 10psi i've got 200~rwkw and on 15psi 220~rwkw

 

just to give you a rough idea. Don't think i've forgotten anything

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Parts you have so far are fine. There are better options but what you have will do the job well still.

 

I would get a greddy or tomei sump instead of the oil cooler. Being a street car, surge protection is needed more than protecting against high track temps.

 

That and a better air filter, z32 air flow meter, boost controller and a pair of rocker arm stoppers will be all the engine mods you need before a good quality tune. Radiator is a good idea too and won't cost much.

 

Other than that you are wasting your money or over complicating it in my opinion. Spend the rest on other parts of the car as needed

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Thanks Trinh seems we have very simular setup! how's the tune on yours pretty safe or aggressive?

Boost bus you say that there are better options can you elaborate a little? I just need to start understanding 200’s a little better. I already have a E-boost2 that I will be installing into it.

With the rocker arm stoppers I was looking at a full kit with -

8 x Precision Aftermarket Hydraulic Pivot

8 x Precision High Performance Cobalt Alloy Rocker Arms

1 x Genuine TOMEI Rocker Arm Stopper Kit does this sound like a worthwhile package?

For a nearly 3 hundred extra the kit come with Tomei Solid lifters worth the extra cash or not in your opinion??

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i'm happy with it for now, on 15psi it kicks in real nice

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nah, down here in tassie we don't have one that's open yet :P think it opens in august though

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i'm running the following:

GT2871R

power FC

740cc injectors

z32 AFM

bosch 040 fuel pump

3" turbo back exhaust

intercooler

pod

 

on 10psi i've got 200~rwkw and on 15psi 220~rwkw

 

just to give you a rough idea. Don't think i've forgotten anything

 

This has pretty much summed up the response i was gonna type. Also don't forget you will want some colder spark plugs if you haven't got them already (grade 7 should be good).

 

My advice is to just make sure you have your goals set (how much power do you want, are you after response or can you live with some lag, the big one is what is the car going to be used for?) also if you think you will want more power later to plan ahead in certain areas such as fuel pumps, injector size, bigger MAF sensor (you already have a Z32 that should be plenty ;) ) but overall it looks like you have the right idea anyway ;)

 

nah, down here in tassie we don't have one that's open yet tongue.png think it opens in august though

 

Yeah kinda sucks about the drag strip being closed -_-

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test and tune 13 of july at tarmac boy's wink.png

 

hope your talking for yourself bro :D 13th july no way am i gonna have money for a haltech by then let alone all the other mods i want/need to do :P anyways back on topic

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Do any of you know much about that rocker arm stopper kit I posted about earlier with hydraulic lifters? Also I've seen people mention colder plugs... ill be totally honest with you I have no idea about dif types if plugs could you elaborate a little bit more please ??

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Do any of you know much about that rocker arm stopper kit I posted about earlier with hydraulic lifters? Also I've seen people mention colder plugs... ill be totally honest with you I have no idea about dif types if plugs could you elaborate a little bit more please ??

cant help on the rocker arm/lifter front but with colder plugs i can.

 

spark plugs have a rating which is usually noted in their product code BKR6E-11 for example the spark plugs cold rating is 6 while the 11 stands for 1.1mm gap.

When you put a spark plug in an engine which has an excessive cold rating (lets say a 8 rating in a stock sr engine which would normally run a 6 from factory) you will end up with a sluggish car and also carbon fouling (where cabron builds up on the spark plug tip) so instead of the charge jumping the gap it will try to run around it which can lead to misfire.

 

If you run a plug that runs to hot (say a rating 5 or keep a rating 6 after doing mods) the spark plug can become very hot which can pre ignite the fuel and lead to detonation which will make your engine go bang and can lead to grown men crying. This is the reason when many people start modifying they run colder spark plugs as a safety precaution. Work shops tend to take this into account (at least they should) when they mod or tune your car while the people who do the modifying themselves either don't understand why they need colder plugs, are unsure why it matters or completely forget about it.

 

On a stock sr20det with the usual FMIC, turbo back exhaust and increased boost its usually a good idea to step up to a grade 7 plug such as BKR7E do a search on here and see what people recommend although that seems to bring up the bitter debate between BKR and BCPR

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so there is no advantage with purchasing the lifters ect? and just got with the stopper?

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edit:I didn't read up that the OP has already said he wanted a "street car with balls", so I guess much of my advice is redundant... I'll leave it here though.

 

I recommend a megasquirt ECU.... $650 for an ECU that undergoes CONSTANT improvement and currently has features and usability that makes most $2000 ECUs feel lightweight :P But eh, the PFC will work; I guess it just depends how nicely you want the car to run. Also, e85 is a great idea. Contrary to popular (read: forum) beliefs, e85 works just fine with -most- fuel system setups. I suspect that the fuel system is a little undersize for e85 but I'm sure you'll get your ~220kw without much trouble. That said, I haven't really looked into SR+e85 so that power figure is a safe guess.

 

You need to decide: What do I want to do with this car? How much power do I need/want? How far am I willing to go ($$$ and time) to achieve these goals? Do I want a shitter that just works or something that is really nice and runs great?

 

For myself, after having a bit of a pig for awhile, I decided that I wanted big power AND standard-ish driveability... I needed an ECU that was capable, without spending an arm and a leg (hence the megasquirt plug, I can't recommend them highly enough. I was skeptical at first but I came around once it was tuned.). Also be aware; the poor man buys twice. Unless you're just one of those "she'll be right mate" types; in which case, do whatever you want.

 

edit: forgot to add: Rocker arm stoppers rock. Get them; cheap and very worthwhile.

Edited by mUnky-matt

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Thanks Trinh seems we have very simular setup! how's the tune on yours pretty safe or aggressive?

Boost bus you say that there are better options can you elaborate a little? I just need to start understanding 200’s a little better. I already have a E-boost2 that I will be installing into it.

With the rocker arm stoppers I was looking at a full kit with -

8 x Precision Aftermarket Hydraulic Pivot

8 x Precision High Performance Cobalt Alloy Rocker Arms

1 x Genuine TOMEI Rocker Arm Stopper Kit does this sound like a worthwhile package?

For a nearly 3 hundred extra the kit come with Tomei Solid lifters worth the extra cash or not in your opinion??

so there is no advantage with purchasing the lifters ect? and just got with the stopper?

 

The rocker arm stoppers ensure the rocker arms don't jump off the lifters at high RPM, which is a good thing, so get them. The GKTech units work fine. The baffled sump boost_bus recommended ensures oil doesn't move away from the pickup when skidding, which can lead to oil starvation and subsequently chewing a bearing. Having had this happen to me, I strongly agree with his input. I just got a Greddy knockoff and haven't had bearing problems since; my engines find more creative ways to kill themselves now. :Drugs:

 

As for solid lifters, although there are big advantages to them in a built head, there are only disadvantages for a street car, especially for a noob. Changing to solid lifters means that you have regularly check the shim-to-cam-lobe clearance and replace shims as needed, you'll have to buy the correct dial gauge tool (you can't just use a feeler-gauge like the old direct actuated bucket shims), it takes hours to check and change, and the valve train will sound louder.

 

There's really no point unless you're building and porting a head to run at 8000+rpm, which you're not, so don't bother with them, same as getting the Precision lifters or rocker arms. If you're keen, you can always remove the oem lifters and re-bleed them, but otherwise the only thing I would bother changing in the head are the cams, should the extra duration or lift be required.

Edited by pmod

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Well I just bought the gktec ras seeing as everyone recommended I do so. thanks to everyone on explaining the need for it. I will purchase one of the knock off greddy sumps some time soon .

 

on the subject of how I want the car I just want something that is going to put you back in your seat hard but is still reliable for driving 3 days of the week.

 

With the megasquirt ECU how does it compare to the power fc? I have never heard of them, if it is a definite upgrade from apf I will sell it and by the megasquirt ECU. Thanks again

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Well for what you want, it's not going to be worth the hassle. I can explain though, just so you know what's out there.

 

If you wanted to pass emissions and have something that drives as smoothly and fuel efficiently as it can, you'll need a computer that supports the features that contribute to that experience (like enhanced acceleration enrichment, closed loop everything (fuel, idle), etc. The megasquirt started as an openECU project, something that people could build and program themselves. It's since evolved into a very professional DIY ECU package with really solid firmware released by the ECU developers. It ranges from the "MS3 PRO", which is basically like any other high end ($2000+) ECU you'll buy off the shelf, to the ms2, which is more than adequate to run a little old SR20. The difference between the ms and other ECU's is that you can alter and control every aspect of the engine's control.

 

Basically, it's a standalone ECU that punches well above it's weight for value at the cost of being more work in the setup. The cheapest versions of the board require you to solder it all together yourself... took me about 3hrs of work and $650, including the ECU and pigtail loom). A good upgrade for the future if you want the benefits I've mentioned and can get a solid resale price on the PFC. Mind you, the PFC does work. My personal experience; having a decent ECU (the ms3) has been the best thing I've done for the car. It totally altered the way the car drives, for the better. :P

 

if it is a better option for me

 

short answer: probably not for you; but worth knowing about to keep your future options open.

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