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Remote mount install SR20 - a howto

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This document describes the process I went though to install a remote mounted oil filter kit on my S13.


The kit was purchased second hand off ebay approximately 12 months ago, in hindsight I probably paid too much for it, however at the time it was something I wanted so I ended up with it. It is actually part of a complete oil cooler kit, however I have not yet installed the oil cooler part and will document that at a later date.


The kit was advertised as being off a SR20 engined S13, so I thought it would be a direct fit, however it turned out to not be the case.


The advantages of having this are that the oil filter is re-located to a much more accessible spot in the engine bay, and in my case it also allowed me to connect oil pressure and oil temperature gauges, with the sensors mounted on the remote mount filter base.


The picture below is the standard oil filter base that bolts to the side of a SR20 engine block. It is tucked away under the inlet manifold and is reasonably hard to get to due to the lack of room. The oil filter screws onto the centre section of this base, and anyone who has changed the oil on a SR20 would know that there is not much room there!


Normally there would be no reason to remove this, however in the test-fitting of my kit I found it easier to remove the standard mount and work with it on my work-bench rather than still on the engine.


The standard base is held onto the block by 4 allen key bolts, each with a 6mm head on them. In the picture below you can also see the standard low oil pressure sensor, this triggers the oil pressure warning light which is located on the S13 dash cluster.




The picture below shows a side shot of the standard filter base. You can see the allen key bolts protrude through the base and bolt onto the engine block. Look closely at the bolt on the left side of the picture, note that the head of the bolt is ‘raised’ above the filter base – this is what caused me the problems that I had.




Below is my remote mount kit. Basically the oil filter is replaced with an adaptor plate, which is the peeling blue painted block in the left of the picture.


Clamped to this adaptor plate are rubber hoses, which in this case are also covered with braided stainless steel. This type of hose is normally called ‘braided hose’.


At the other end of the hose is the remote mount filter base. The base is located somewhere in the engine bay and the oil filter screws into this base.


Also mounted into the base are two sensors, the top one in the base is a HKS oil temperature sensor, the lower one is a HKS oil pressure senor, which is actually a 40cm length of small diameter braided hose which leads to the sensor itself. Electrical plugs come out of each sensor which then run to the gauges themselves located inside the cabin.


A black steel bracket bolts to the remote mount and allows the mount to be bolted securely in the engine bay.


Oil pressures can be as high as 6-7 bar which is around 90-100psi, so it is quite important to use quality fittings and to make sure everything is done up tightly, otherwise a major oil leak could easily develop in your engine bay!


It is also very important to not get the braided lines mixed up and installed incorrectly, make sure you are 100% sure about the way the lines are connected from the base to the remote mount, incorrect installation could cause oil starvation and result in permanent damage to your engine.


I triple checked the oil line routing to be sure it was correct before installation.


If installing such a kit, consider covering the braided line with some plastic tubing. The braided line is quite rough and abrasive, by covering it up it will ensure that you don’t have any issues with it rubbing through other lines/wiring in the engine bay.


Also note that this kit is quite unconventional when compared to other japanese kits, most of the japanese kits will not use hose clamps to secure the braided line, but will use better quality earls fittings which screw on rather than clamp. Also most other japanese kits will use a different designed adaptor base which allows you to tighten it on with a socket and wrench rather than the screw on design I have. Only time will tell on the reliability of this kit, however I am not anticipating any issues.




Below is a photo of the base adaptor of the remote mount, which screws into the standard oil filter base. It has a black rubber o-ring which seals to the standard base. The diameter of this base is approximately 80mm.




The problem I had with the fitting of my remote mount base was with its diameter. As you can see in the picture below, the diameter of the standard base is approximately 60mm. The diameter of the remote mount base is approximately 80mm. Although the o-ring was in the right place, the larger diameter remote mount base ended up fouling on the 3 allen key bolts that are located close to the edge of the lip on the standard base. As one of the previous photos shows, these bolts sit higher than the base itself, and effectively stopped the remote mount being tightened down fully.


Without some modifications, the kit was not going to seal properly.




After thinking about the problem for a little while, I decided to make some modifications to the allen key bolts themselves.


The options were to either grind down the head of the bolt a couple of millimeters, or remove the flat washer and the spring washer that were attached to each of the bolts.


I chose the easiest path and decided to remove the washers. They can be seen in the picture below.




With a hacksaw I carefully cut through the solid washer on each one of the three bolts. Once it was cut through I was able to twist it away with a pair of pliers.


The spring washer already had a slit in it as part of its design, so I was able to remove it easily with pliers as well.


Once I had removed the washers, I decided to grind away the small non-threaded section at the end of the bolt. I was concerned that with the washers removed the bolt would then screw further into the engine block itself, and if the holes in the engine block were not deep enough, I could end up damaging the block when tightening the bolts down.


The picture below shows an original bolt at the top with the two washers still attached, and a modified bolt underneath it, with the two washers removed and its end tip ground down.




Now I had modified each one of the three bolts, you can see from the picture below that they sit lower than the filter base. The bolt on the far right was well away from the base and didn’t need to be modified. I can now install the remote mount base and it will seal properly.




As the standard oil filter base bolts to the side of the block in such an awkward location, I needed the correct tools to be able to reach and tighten then allen key bolts. I used a 6mm allen key bit with a long extension and a small ratchet on the end. The tools were part of a tool kit I purchased from repco a number of years ago.


Below is a picture of the area that you have to work in. The oil filter basically sits under the intake plenum but above the engine mount, I ended up removing some small things to get more working room, some vacuum lines and the negative earth strap were disconnected.




The standard oil filter base was re-installed without too much trouble, I used loctite on each of the modified allen key bolts to ensure that they don’t come undone by themselves in the future.


The picture below was taken from underneath the car , looking up at the oil filter base, as you can see it is quite difficult to even take a decent photo of the area, let alone work on it!


Without the right tools this job would have been impossible.




Once the standard base was re-installed, I was able to install the remote mount kit.


It was a little tricky getting the remote mount adaptor threaded onto the standard oil filter base, it took about ten minutes to just get it threaded on, I then had to slowly screw it on while rotating the top section as well so the braided lines didn’t get twisted.


Once the base was on and tightened by hand, I got underneath the car and used a long metal jack handle and a hammer to tap it on tighter, to ensure that it wouldn’t leak.


The picture below shows the remote mount base in roughly the position it will be permanently located.




Next I bolted the remote mount bracket to the car. It is actually held on with one bolt on the strut tower, which is also shared with my brake master stopper.


I was a little concerned that this would not be secure enough and it would twist when tightening up or loosening oil filters, however a quick test proved this mounting point was more than adequate.




Once the remote mount was bolted down securely, I re-installed the vacuum lines and battery negative strap that were removed. I also checked to make sure each clamp was secure and that the sensors screwed into the remote mount base were also tight and sealed properly with teflon tape.


Before screwing on the filter and starting the car, I wanted to fill the braided hose with oil, so that there was no ‘running dry’ period that the engine had to go through. To do this I wanted to crank over the engine without starting it up.


The easiest was to disable the engine is to remove the crank angle sensor plug, which is located at the front of the engine, near the top radiator hose.


As you can see in the picture below, I have removed the plug.




Before cranking the engine over I put a rag around the filter base, to catch any oil that may overflow.




The engine was then cranked until oil appeared in the base.


I was surprised in the way the oil flowed through the filter, I was imagining that oil would come up from the centre hole, into the filter and then return to the engine via the side holes, in fact it is the opposite way, with the oil appearing from the side holes and returning via the centre hole.


It took about 10 seconds of cranking for oil to appear at the base.




Once oil appeared, I installed an oil filter, I only use Nissan genuine oil filters – part number 15208-53J00, however for the S13 engine you can also use ryco Z442 or an equivalent. A z145a filter may also fit.


As you can see in the picture below, the installation is complete, the sensor for oil pressure has been zip tied to the strut brace, next to the boost gauge sensor.


All lines and wiring were carefully routed and zip-tied so as to not rub on anything or work their way loose.


A quick test drive confirmed the gauges were working, under acceleration oil pressure peaked at a little over 6 bar, at idle when the engine is warm, oil pressure sits around 1 bar or 15psi. I am yet to wire up the oil temp gauge in my car though.


Also there have been no problems with oil leaks from any part of the kit.



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hiya, great writeup! this is your second one, no? :bringiton:

good work keep it up!


wanted to add a few comments:

- it looks like you're missing one rubber seal/gromet on your base plate

- the one seal that you do have looks like it *barely* makes a seal, i'd be very careful with that

- i don't think chopping up the washer and spring washer was a great idea, although you did you lock tite :)

- you did mention that you should use that plastic tube stuff but i don't think you used it enough


btw nice triangluated strut brace :yes:

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hiya, great writeup! this is your second one, no? :bringiton:

good work keep it up!


wanted to add a few comments:

- it looks like you're missing one rubber seal/gromet on your base plate

- the one seal that you do have looks like it *barely* makes a seal, i'd be very careful with that

- i don't think chopping up the washer and spring washer was a great idea, although you did you lock tite :)

- you did mention that you should use that plastic tube stuff but i don't think you used it enough


btw nice triangluated strut brace :yes:

Thanks for the comments, each time i do something to my car i try to do a little write up!


I dont think its missing a seal - or if it is that groove might be for using the base plate with different cars which have larger oil filters - if there was a second seal there it wouldnt have sealed on the flat surface of the base plate anyway.


Chopping off the washer and spring washer was the easiest way! B) . I could have modified the adaptor plate but didnt want to do that. I did each bolt up quite tight and with the loctite it should hold fine...


I didnt have much platic tube stuff at the time, i will do the whole lot when i put the oil cooler on, none of the braided hose is rubbing anywhere on the body of the car/engine anyway.


Its a tomei strut brace :D

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it is definately missing a rubber seal, but as you said it doesn't matter cos it's not gonna do anything for you anyways, hehe


again, top work! *thumbsup*

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very comprehensive write up! two thumbs up for it especially since i will be doing this very soon. one thing though, how come people mount the relocator with the filter on top cos once you unscew it to change it, wont all the oil go all over the place cos the filter is standing up with the open end down?

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Good writeup... Moving to the articles...

However: Z442 and z145a are a different filter.. The thread length is slightly different, so make sure you get the right one.

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